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Archive 2024X100VI first impressions + running commentary
p.18 #1X100VI first impressions + running commentary
Been putting it through its paces since landing in Japan and I must say I love it. Still long for a longer focal length but the crop in works in a pinch. Loving trying different film sims, my trip so far has no overall “look” but portra 800 sim has been serving me well.
Have to say I’m really struggling with metering still though. Probably because I’m focusing on sims and JPEG output but for anything with decent dynamic range and not bathed in sunny light I just can’t get this thing to meter the way I want to bar just going way back to focus and recompose with spot metering. I didn’t think modern cameras would be too far apart but with my Z8 it’s so easy to just get it to work. Any decent DR and the auto exposure just kind seems to throw a dart at “too high” or “too low”. Once I figure out this issue I think I’ll be using and abusing this for years.
Have to say I’m really struggling with metering still though. Probably because I’m focusing on sims and JPEG output but for anything with decent dynamic range and not bathed in sunny light I just can’t get this thing to meter the way I want to bar just going way back to focus and recompose with spot metering. I didn’t think modern cameras would be too far apart but with my Z8 it’s so easy to just get it to work. Any decent DR and the auto exposure just kind seems to throw a dart at “too high” or “too low”. Once I figure out this issue I think I’ll be using and abusing this for years.
Mar 27, 2024 at 04:28 AM
p.18 #2X100VI first impressions + running commentary
This is where the EC dial comes in. It’s a core part of my shooting workflow when doing JPEG only since you really need to get within about 2/3rd of a stop of your desired final look. The EVF is pretty accurate so crank the EC until your scene looks the way you want, easier than trying to AE Hold recompose 5 times till you get it right.
BPsmith511 wrote:
Been putting it through its paces since landing in Japan and I must say I love it. Still long for a longer focal length but the crop in works in a pinch. Loving trying different film sims, my trip so far has no overall “look” but portra 800 sim has been serving me well.
Have to say I’m really struggling with metering still though. Probably because I’m focusing on sims and JPEG output but for anything with decent dynamic range and not bathed in sunny light I just can’t get this thing to meter the way I want to bar...Show more →
BPsmith511 wrote:
Been putting it through its paces since landing in Japan and I must say I love it. Still long for a longer focal length but the crop in works in a pinch. Loving trying different film sims, my trip so far has no overall “look” but portra 800 sim has been serving me well.
Have to say I’m really struggling with metering still though. Probably because I’m focusing on sims and JPEG output but for anything with decent dynamic range and not bathed in sunny light I just can’t get this thing to meter the way I want to bar...Show more →
Mar 27, 2024 at 07:56 AM
p.18 #3X100VI first impressions + running commentary
BPsmith511 wrote:
Been putting it through its paces since landing in Japan and I must say I love it. Still long for a longer focal length but the crop in works in a pinch. Loving trying different film sims, my trip so far has no overall “look” but portra 800 sim has been serving me well.
Have to say I’m really struggling with metering still though. Probably because I’m focusing on sims and JPEG output but for anything with decent dynamic range and not bathed in sunny light I just can’t get this thing to meter the way I want to bar...Show more →
Some may think that it is inefficient, but, regardless of the make/model, I have always been a full-manual guy. I just feel like I have to control every aspect of the triangle myself.
Been putting it through its paces since landing in Japan and I must say I love it. Still long for a longer focal length but the crop in works in a pinch. Loving trying different film sims, my trip so far has no overall “look” but portra 800 sim has been serving me well.
Have to say I’m really struggling with metering still though. Probably because I’m focusing on sims and JPEG output but for anything with decent dynamic range and not bathed in sunny light I just can’t get this thing to meter the way I want to bar...Show more →
Some may think that it is inefficient, but, regardless of the make/model, I have always been a full-manual guy. I just feel like I have to control every aspect of the triangle myself.
Mar 27, 2024 at 09:03 AM
p.18 #4X100VI first impressions + running commentary
BPsmith511 wrote:
Been putting it through its paces since landing in Japan and I must say I love it. Still long for a longer focal length but the crop in works in a pinch. Loving trying different film sims, my trip so far has no overall “look” but portra 800 sim has been serving me well.
Have to say I’m really struggling with metering still though. Probably because I’m focusing on sims and JPEG output but for anything with decent dynamic range and not bathed in sunny light I just can’t get this thing to meter the way I want to bar...Show more →
Try center-weighted metering. I hate matrix/multi-segmented metering on all cameras as it's too easily fooled when a bright area is near the frame edges.
Been putting it through its paces since landing in Japan and I must say I love it. Still long for a longer focal length but the crop in works in a pinch. Loving trying different film sims, my trip so far has no overall “look” but portra 800 sim has been serving me well.
Have to say I’m really struggling with metering still though. Probably because I’m focusing on sims and JPEG output but for anything with decent dynamic range and not bathed in sunny light I just can’t get this thing to meter the way I want to bar...Show more →
Try center-weighted metering. I hate matrix/multi-segmented metering on all cameras as it's too easily fooled when a bright area is near the frame edges.
Mar 27, 2024 at 09:26 AM
p.18 #5X100VI first impressions + running commentary
el.mediocre wrote:
Tried the X100VI and quickly realized it wasn't for me.
Not a knock on the camera as it is clearly a capable tool... just felt too small and awkward for my hands. I'll also add that I found myself missing manual focus far more than expected - the AF of the X100VI in particular made me feel a little too far removed from the process of shooting to find it enjoyable.
Currently thinking about trying the X-T5 next with one of the Voigtlander pancake lenses.
You can switch to manual focus on the X100VI... Admittedly you have other issues, but MF shouldn't be one of them. Unless I'm missing something!
Tried the X100VI and quickly realized it wasn't for me.
Not a knock on the camera as it is clearly a capable tool... just felt too small and awkward for my hands. I'll also add that I found myself missing manual focus far more than expected - the AF of the X100VI in particular made me feel a little too far removed from the process of shooting to find it enjoyable.
Currently thinking about trying the X-T5 next with one of the Voigtlander pancake lenses.
You can switch to manual focus on the X100VI... Admittedly you have other issues, but MF shouldn't be one of them. Unless I'm missing something!
Mar 27, 2024 at 12:41 PM
p.18 #6X100VI first impressions + running commentary
el.mediocre wrote:
Tried the X100VI and quickly realized it wasn't for me.
Not a knock on the camera as it is clearly a capable tool... just felt too small and awkward for my hands. I'll also add that I found myself missing manual focus far more than expected - the AF of the X100VI in particular made me feel a little too far removed from the process of shooting to find it enjoyable.
Currently thinking about trying the X-T5 next with one of the Voigtlander pancake lenses.
Manual Focus is borderline useless on the X100 series. The focus by wire is the worst implementation I've ever used.
Tried the X100VI and quickly realized it wasn't for me.
Not a knock on the camera as it is clearly a capable tool... just felt too small and awkward for my hands. I'll also add that I found myself missing manual focus far more than expected - the AF of the X100VI in particular made me feel a little too far removed from the process of shooting to find it enjoyable.
Currently thinking about trying the X-T5 next with one of the Voigtlander pancake lenses.
Manual Focus is borderline useless on the X100 series. The focus by wire is the worst implementation I've ever used.
Mar 27, 2024 at 02:20 PM
p.18 #7X100VI first impressions + running commentary
RoamingScott wrote:
Not a knock on the camera as it is clearly a capable tool... just felt too small and awkward for my hands. I'll also add that I found myself missing manual focus far more than expected - the AF of the X100VI in particular made me feel a little too far removed from the process of shooting to find it enjoyable.
Currently thinking about trying the X-T5 next with one of the Voigtlander pancake lenses.Manual Focus is borderline useless on the X100 series. The focus by wire is the worst implementation I've ever used.
Yes. I tried using it on the X100VI and very much agree. The feel of most focus-by-wire systems just flat out pale in comparison to a mechanical focus lens in general. As it specifically relates to the X100VI… well, let's just say that you've gotta be happy with AF-only usage and I knew after a few days that I'd never get there personally.
Again, this is not a knock on the camera. I think the AF is good for what it needs to do. I've just spent enough time with mechanical focus lenses over the last 3-ish years that I vastly prefer it for most of my shooting needs these days.
el.mediocre wrote
Tried the X100VI and quickly realized it wasn't for me.Not a knock on the camera as it is clearly a capable tool... just felt too small and awkward for my hands. I'll also add that I found myself missing manual focus far more than expected - the AF of the X100VI in particular made me feel a little too far removed from the process of shooting to find it enjoyable.
Currently thinking about trying the X-T5 next with one of the Voigtlander pancake lenses.
Yes. I tried using it on the X100VI and very much agree. The feel of most focus-by-wire systems just flat out pale in comparison to a mechanical focus lens in general. As it specifically relates to the X100VI… well, let's just say that you've gotta be happy with AF-only usage and I knew after a few days that I'd never get there personally.
Again, this is not a knock on the camera. I think the AF is good for what it needs to do. I've just spent enough time with mechanical focus lenses over the last 3-ish years that I vastly prefer it for most of my shooting needs these days.
Mar 27, 2024 at 03:10 PM
p.18 #8X100VI first impressions + running commentary
BPsmith511 wrote:
Been putting it through its paces since landing in Japan and I must say I love it. Still long for a longer focal length but the crop in works in a pinch. Loving trying different film sims, my trip so far has no overall “look” but portra 800 sim has been serving me well.
Have to say I’m really struggling with metering still though. Probably because I’m focusing on sims and JPEG output but for anything with decent dynamic range and not bathed in sunny light I just can’t get this thing to meter the way I want to bar...Show more →
Also remember that when shooting JPGs in high contrast lighting, the DR200 or DR400 options really help.
Been putting it through its paces since landing in Japan and I must say I love it. Still long for a longer focal length but the crop in works in a pinch. Loving trying different film sims, my trip so far has no overall “look” but portra 800 sim has been serving me well.
Have to say I’m really struggling with metering still though. Probably because I’m focusing on sims and JPEG output but for anything with decent dynamic range and not bathed in sunny light I just can’t get this thing to meter the way I want to bar...Show more →
Also remember that when shooting JPGs in high contrast lighting, the DR200 or DR400 options really help.
Mar 27, 2024 at 09:41 PM
p.18 #9X100VI first impressions + running commentary
RoamingScott wrote:
This is where the EC dial comes in. It’s a core part of my shooting workflow when doing JPEG only since you really need to get within about 2/3rd of a stop of your desired final look. The EVF is pretty accurate so crank the EC until your scene looks the way you want, easier than trying to AE Hold recompose 5 times till you get it right.
BPsmith511 wrote
Been putting it through its paces since landing in Japan and I must say I love it. Still long for a longer focal length but the crop in works in a pinch. Loving trying different film sims, my trip so far has no overall “look” but portra 800 sim has been serving me well.Have to say I’m really struggling with metering still though. Probably because I’m focusing on sims and JPEG output but for anything with decent dynamic range and not bathed in sunny light I just can’t get this thing to meter the way I want to bar just going way back to focus and recompose with spot metering. I didn’t think modern cameras would be too far apart but with my Z8 it’s so easy to just get it to work. Any decent DR and the auto exposure just kind seems to throw a dart at “too high” or “too low”. Once I figure out this issue I think I’ll be using and abusing this for years.
That’s what I’ve been doing for the most part, just putting it to C and adjusting the command dial
Mar 27, 2024 at 09:41 PM
p.18 #10X100VI first impressions + running commentary
Sharona wrote:
Not a knock on the camera as it is clearly a capable tool... just felt too small and awkward for my hands. I'll also add that I found myself missing manual focus far more than expected - the AF of the X100VI in particular made me feel a little too far removed from the process of shooting to find it enjoyable.
Currently thinking about trying the X-T5 next with one of the Voigtlander pancake lenses.You can switch to manual focus on the X100VI... Admittedly you have other issues, but MF shouldn't be one of them. Unless I'm missing something!
I believe he was referring to the fact that using focus by wire and a slow motorized lens doesn't quite match the experience of shooting with a traditional manual focus helicoid lens.
el.mediocre wrote
Tried the X100VI and quickly realized it wasn't for me.Not a knock on the camera as it is clearly a capable tool... just felt too small and awkward for my hands. I'll also add that I found myself missing manual focus far more than expected - the AF of the X100VI in particular made me feel a little too far removed from the process of shooting to find it enjoyable.
Currently thinking about trying the X-T5 next with one of the Voigtlander pancake lenses.
I believe he was referring to the fact that using focus by wire and a slow motorized lens doesn't quite match the experience of shooting with a traditional manual focus helicoid lens.
Mar 27, 2024 at 09:43 PM
p.18 #11X100VI first impressions + running commentary
RoamingScott wrote:
This is where the EC dial comes in. It’s a core part of my shooting workflow when doing JPEG only since you really need to get within about 2/3rd of a stop of your desired final look. The EVF is pretty accurate so crank the EC until your scene looks the way you want, easier than trying to AE Hold recompose 5 times till you get it right.
Have to say I’m really struggling with metering still though. Probably because I’m focusing on sims and JPEG output but for anything with decent dynamic range and not bathed in sunny light I just can’t get this thing to meter the way I want to bar just going way back to focus and recompose with spot metering. I didn’t think modern cameras would be too far apart but with my Z8 it’s so easy to just get it to work. Any decent DR and the auto exposure just kind seems to throw a dart at “too high” or “too low”. Once I figure out this issue I think I’ll be using and abusing this for years.
I'd add that a lot of recipes on Fuji X weekly require a bit of EC. While I haven't shot the X100VI, I find the X-T5 meters pretty accurately if just shooting a standard JPEG using something like the Provia film sim, but once you get into custom recipes with different highlight and shadow tone adjustments you will want to ride the EC.
This is where the EC dial comes in. It’s a core part of my shooting workflow when doing JPEG only since you really need to get within about 2/3rd of a stop of your desired final look. The EVF is pretty accurate so crank the EC until your scene looks the way you want, easier than trying to AE Hold recompose 5 times till you get it right.
BPsmith511 wrote
Been putting it through its paces since landing in Japan and I must say I love it. Still long for a longer focal length but the crop in works in a pinch. Loving trying different film sims, my trip so far has no overall “look” but portra 800 sim has been serving me well.Have to say I’m really struggling with metering still though. Probably because I’m focusing on sims and JPEG output but for anything with decent dynamic range and not bathed in sunny light I just can’t get this thing to meter the way I want to bar just going way back to focus and recompose with spot metering. I didn’t think modern cameras would be too far apart but with my Z8 it’s so easy to just get it to work. Any decent DR and the auto exposure just kind seems to throw a dart at “too high” or “too low”. Once I figure out this issue I think I’ll be using and abusing this for years.
I'd add that a lot of recipes on Fuji X weekly require a bit of EC. While I haven't shot the X100VI, I find the X-T5 meters pretty accurately if just shooting a standard JPEG using something like the Provia film sim, but once you get into custom recipes with different highlight and shadow tone adjustments you will want to ride the EC.
Mar 27, 2024 at 10:20 PM
p.18 #12X100VI first impressions + running commentary
Geoff D F wrote:
Have to say I’m really struggling with metering still though. Probably because I’m focusing on sims and JPEG output but for anything with decent dynamic range and not bathed in sunny light I just can’t get this thing to meter the way I want to bar just going way back to focus and recompose with spot metering. I didn’t think modern cameras would be too far apart but with my Z8 it’s so easy to just get it to work. Any decent DR and the auto exposure just kind seems to throw a dart at “too high” or “too low”. Once I figure out this issue I think I’ll be using and abusing this for years.I'd add that a lot of recipes on Fuji X weekly require a bit of EC. While I haven't shot the X100VI, I find the X-T5 meters pretty accurately if just shooting a standard JPEG using something like the Provia film sim, but once you get into custom recipes with different highlight and shadow tone adjustments you will want to ride the EC.
I don't get why exposure compensation is part of custom settings. It's about adjusting exposure based on light, not changing how the film looks.
RoamingScott wrote
This is where the EC dial comes in. It’s a core part of my shooting workflow when doing JPEG only since you really need to get within about 2/3rd of a stop of your desired final look. The EVF is pretty accurate so crank the EC until your scene looks the way you want, easier than trying to AE Hold recompose 5 times till you get it right.BPsmith511 wrote
Been putting it through its paces since landing in Japan and I must say I love it. Still long for a longer focal length but the crop in works in a pinch. Loving trying different film sims, my trip so far has no overall “look” but portra 800 sim has been serving me well.Have to say I’m really struggling with metering still though. Probably because I’m focusing on sims and JPEG output but for anything with decent dynamic range and not bathed in sunny light I just can’t get this thing to meter the way I want to bar just going way back to focus and recompose with spot metering. I didn’t think modern cameras would be too far apart but with my Z8 it’s so easy to just get it to work. Any decent DR and the auto exposure just kind seems to throw a dart at “too high” or “too low”. Once I figure out this issue I think I’ll be using and abusing this for years.
I don't get why exposure compensation is part of custom settings. It's about adjusting exposure based on light, not changing how the film looks.
Mar 27, 2024 at 10:59 PM
p.18 #13X100VI first impressions + running commentary
It had to do with the WB adjustments and H/S tone curve adjustments. You can get quite different colors depending on the EC value. Many recipes (mine included) will have instructions for which EC value gives the most recipe-accurate colors.
Fred Miranda wrote:
Have to say I’m really struggling with metering still though. Probably because I’m focusing on sims and JPEG output but for anything with decent dynamic range and not bathed in sunny light I just can’t get this thing to meter the way I want to bar just going way back to focus and recompose with spot metering. I didn’t think modern cameras would be too far apart but with my Z8 it’s so easy to just get it to work. Any decent DR and the auto exposure just kind seems to throw a dart at “too high” or “too low”. Once I figure out this issue I think I’ll be using and abusing this for years.I'd add that a lot of recipes on Fuji X weekly require a bit of EC. While I haven't shot the X100VI, I find the X-T5 meters pretty accurately if just shooting a standard JPEG using something like the Provia film sim, but once you get into custom recipes with different highlight and shadow tone adjustments you will want to ride the EC.I don't get why exposure compensation is part of custom settings. It's about adjusting exposure based on light, not changing how the film looks.
Fred Miranda wrote:
Geoff D F wrote
RoamingScott wrote
This is where the EC dial comes in. It’s a core part of my shooting workflow when doing JPEG only since you really need to get within about 2/3rd of a stop of your desired final look. The EVF is pretty accurate so crank the EC until your scene looks the way you want, easier than trying to AE Hold recompose 5 times till you get it right.BPsmith511 wrote
Been putting it through its paces since landing in Japan and I must say I love it. Still long for a longer focal length but the crop in works in a pinch. Loving trying different film sims, my trip so far has no overall “look” but portra 800 sim has been serving me well.Have to say I’m really struggling with metering still though. Probably because I’m focusing on sims and JPEG output but for anything with decent dynamic range and not bathed in sunny light I just can’t get this thing to meter the way I want to bar just going way back to focus and recompose with spot metering. I didn’t think modern cameras would be too far apart but with my Z8 it’s so easy to just get it to work. Any decent DR and the auto exposure just kind seems to throw a dart at “too high” or “too low”. Once I figure out this issue I think I’ll be using and abusing this for years.
Mar 28, 2024 at 05:38 AM
p.18 #14X100VI first impressions + running commentary
Fred Miranda wrote:
Not a knock on the camera as it is clearly a capable tool... just felt too small and awkward for my hands. I'll also add that I found myself missing manual focus far more than expected - the AF of the X100VI in particular made me feel a little too far removed from the process of shooting to find it enjoyable.
Currently thinking about trying the X-T5 next with one of the Voigtlander pancake lenses.You can switch to manual focus on the X100VI... Admittedly you have other issues, but MF shouldn't be one of them. Unless I'm missing something!I believe he was referring to the fact that using focus by wire and a slow motorized lens doesn't quite match the experience of shooting with a traditional manual focus helicoid lens.
Thanks, Fred. As someone who basically never uses manual focus, I appreciate the clarification!
Sharona wrote
el.mediocre wrote
Tried the X100VI and quickly realized it wasn't for me.Not a knock on the camera as it is clearly a capable tool... just felt too small and awkward for my hands. I'll also add that I found myself missing manual focus far more than expected - the AF of the X100VI in particular made me feel a little too far removed from the process of shooting to find it enjoyable.
Currently thinking about trying the X-T5 next with one of the Voigtlander pancake lenses.
Thanks, Fred. As someone who basically never uses manual focus, I appreciate the clarification!
Mar 28, 2024 at 06:47 AM
p.18 #15X100VI first impressions + running commentary
RoamingScott wrote:
It had to do with the WB adjustments and H/S tone curve adjustments. You can get quite different colors depending on the EC value. Many recipes (mine included) will have instructions for which EC value gives the most recipe-accurate colors.
Have to say I’m really struggling with metering still though. Probably because I’m focusing on sims and JPEG output but for anything with decent dynamic range and not bathed in sunny light I just can’t get this thing to meter the way I want to bar just going way back to focus and recompose with spot metering. I didn’t think modern cameras would be too far apart but with my Z8 it’s so easy to just get it to work. Any decent DR and the auto exposure just kind seems to throw a dart at “too high” or “too low”. Once I figure out this issue I think I’ll be using and abusing this for years.I'd add that a lot of recipes on Fuji X weekly require a bit of EC. While I haven't shot the X100VI, I find the X-T5 meters pretty accurately if just shooting a standard JPEG using something like the Provia film sim, but once you get into custom recipes with different highlight and shadow tone adjustments you will want to ride the EC.I don't get why exposure compensation is part of custom settings. It's about adjusting exposure based on light, not changing how the film looks.
But the exposure and metering will still depend on what the luminance of the scene is. If you're taking photos of dark objects that fill most of the frame, you're not going to want +2/3 EC....and if you are taking photos of very light objects, you might want even more than that.
It had to do with the WB adjustments and H/S tone curve adjustments. You can get quite different colors depending on the EC value. Many recipes (mine included) will have instructions for which EC value gives the most recipe-accurate colors.
Fred Miranda wrote
Geoff D F wrote
RoamingScott wrote
This is where the EC dial comes in. It’s a core part of my shooting workflow when doing JPEG only since you really need to get within about 2/3rd of a stop of your desired final look. The EVF is pretty accurate so crank the EC until your scene looks the way you want, easier than trying to AE Hold recompose 5 times till you get it right.BPsmith511 wrote
Been putting it through its paces since landing in Japan and I must say I love it. Still long for a longer focal length but the crop in works in a pinch. Loving trying different film sims, my trip so far has no overall “look” but portra 800 sim has been serving me well.Have to say I’m really struggling with metering still though. Probably because I’m focusing on sims and JPEG output but for anything with decent dynamic range and not bathed in sunny light I just can’t get this thing to meter the way I want to bar just going way back to focus and recompose with spot metering. I didn’t think modern cameras would be too far apart but with my Z8 it’s so easy to just get it to work. Any decent DR and the auto exposure just kind seems to throw a dart at “too high” or “too low”. Once I figure out this issue I think I’ll be using and abusing this for years.
But the exposure and metering will still depend on what the luminance of the scene is. If you're taking photos of dark objects that fill most of the frame, you're not going to want +2/3 EC....and if you are taking photos of very light objects, you might want even more than that.
Mar 28, 2024 at 07:06 AM
p.18 #16X100VI first impressions + running commentary
This is a generalization, but most film sims are designed for a specific time of day or lighting scenario to achieve that specific look. In my experience it’s rare that I would be shooting a dark subject with a bright daylight type film sim.
Jman13 wrote:
Have to say I’m really struggling with metering still though. Probably because I’m focusing on sims and JPEG output but for anything with decent dynamic range and not bathed in sunny light I just can’t get this thing to meter the way I want to bar just going way back to focus and recompose with spot metering. I didn’t think modern cameras would be too far apart but with my Z8 it’s so easy to just get it to work. Any decent DR and the auto exposure just kind seems to throw a dart at “too high” or “too low”. Once I figure out this issue I think I’ll be using and abusing this for years.I'd add that a lot of recipes on Fuji X weekly require a bit of EC. While I haven't shot the X100VI, I find the X-T5 meters pretty accurately if just shooting a standard JPEG using something like the Provia film sim, but once you get into custom recipes with different highlight and shadow tone adjustments you will want to ride the EC.I don't get why exposure compensation is part of custom settings. It's about adjusting exposure based on light, not changing how the film looks.But the exposure and metering will still depend on what the luminance of the scene is. If you're taking photos of dark objects that fill most of the frame, you're not going to want +2/3 EC....and if you are taking photos of very light objects, you might want even more than that.
Jman13 wrote:
RoamingScott wrote
It had to do with the WB adjustments and H/S tone curve adjustments. You can get quite different colors depending on the EC value. Many recipes (mine included) will have instructions for which EC value gives the most recipe-accurate colors.Fred Miranda wrote
Geoff D F wrote
RoamingScott wrote
This is where the EC dial comes in. It’s a core part of my shooting workflow when doing JPEG only since you really need to get within about 2/3rd of a stop of your desired final look. The EVF is pretty accurate so crank the EC until your scene looks the way you want, easier than trying to AE Hold recompose 5 times till you get it right.BPsmith511 wrote
Been putting it through its paces since landing in Japan and I must say I love it. Still long for a longer focal length but the crop in works in a pinch. Loving trying different film sims, my trip so far has no overall “look” but portra 800 sim has been serving me well.Have to say I’m really struggling with metering still though. Probably because I’m focusing on sims and JPEG output but for anything with decent dynamic range and not bathed in sunny light I just can’t get this thing to meter the way I want to bar just going way back to focus and recompose with spot metering. I didn’t think modern cameras would be too far apart but with my Z8 it’s so easy to just get it to work. Any decent DR and the auto exposure just kind seems to throw a dart at “too high” or “too low”. Once I figure out this issue I think I’ll be using and abusing this for years.
Mar 28, 2024 at 07:12 AM
p.18 #17X100VI first impressions + running commentary
RoamingScott wrote:
It had to do with the WB adjustments and H/S tone curve adjustments. You can get quite different colors depending on the EC value. Many recipes (mine included) will have instructions for which EC value gives the most recipe-accurate colors.
Have to say I’m really struggling with metering still though. Probably because I’m focusing on sims and JPEG output but for anything with decent dynamic range and not bathed in sunny light I just can’t get this thing to meter the way I want to bar just going way back to focus and recompose with spot metering. I didn’t think modern cameras would be too far apart but with my Z8 it’s so easy to just get it to work. Any decent DR and the auto exposure just kind seems to throw a dart at “too high” or “too low”. Once I figure out this issue I think I’ll be using and abusing this for years.I'd add that a lot of recipes on Fuji X weekly require a bit of EC. While I haven't shot the X100VI, I find the X-T5 meters pretty accurately if just shooting a standard JPEG using something like the Provia film sim, but once you get into custom recipes with different highlight and shadow tone adjustments you will want to ride the EC.I don't get why exposure compensation is part of custom settings. It's about adjusting exposure based on light, not changing how the film looks.This still depends on the subject and lighting. The camera exposes to gray, and if your scene is mostly dark tones (even in daylight), having a pre-determined overexposed EC will likely blow the highlights on your image. Again, exposure is not really connected to a particular film look. It's like saying to shoot Gold film on a film camera and always overexpose it, regardless of your subject.
Also, one could use a specific analog film to create images that are either low key or high key. The point is it really depends on the scene and creative vision.
It had to do with the WB adjustments and H/S tone curve adjustments. You can get quite different colors depending on the EC value. Many recipes (mine included) will have instructions for which EC value gives the most recipe-accurate colors.
Fred Miranda wrote
Geoff D F wrote
RoamingScott wrote
This is where the EC dial comes in. It’s a core part of my shooting workflow when doing JPEG only since you really need to get within about 2/3rd of a stop of your desired final look. The EVF is pretty accurate so crank the EC until your scene looks the way you want, easier than trying to AE Hold recompose 5 times till you get it right.BPsmith511 wrote
Been putting it through its paces since landing in Japan and I must say I love it. Still long for a longer focal length but the crop in works in a pinch. Loving trying different film sims, my trip so far has no overall “look” but portra 800 sim has been serving me well.Have to say I’m really struggling with metering still though. Probably because I’m focusing on sims and JPEG output but for anything with decent dynamic range and not bathed in sunny light I just can’t get this thing to meter the way I want to bar just going way back to focus and recompose with spot metering. I didn’t think modern cameras would be too far apart but with my Z8 it’s so easy to just get it to work. Any decent DR and the auto exposure just kind seems to throw a dart at “too high” or “too low”. Once I figure out this issue I think I’ll be using and abusing this for years.
Also, one could use a specific analog film to create images that are either low key or high key. The point is it really depends on the scene and creative vision.
Mar 28, 2024 at 08:28 AM
p.18 #18X100VI first impressions + running commentary
Fred Miranda wrote:
It's like saying to shoot Gold film on a film camera and always overexpose it, regardless of your subject.
This is a thing in film photography. Many people prefer to push a stock to get a certain look out of it, much in the same way a Fuji recipe can work via EC.
Film of course also tends to color shift rapidly as you underexpose it...Fuji recipes not as much, but it's still there to a degree especially if you've pushed the WB tint shift quite a ways.
It's like saying to shoot Gold film on a film camera and always overexpose it, regardless of your subject.
This is a thing in film photography. Many people prefer to push a stock to get a certain look out of it, much in the same way a Fuji recipe can work via EC.
Film of course also tends to color shift rapidly as you underexpose it...Fuji recipes not as much, but it's still there to a degree especially if you've pushed the WB tint shift quite a ways.
Mar 28, 2024 at 08:42 AM
p.18 #19X100VI first impressions + running commentary
Fred Miranda wrote:
…using focus by wire and a slow motorized lens doesn't quite match the experience of shooting with a traditional manual focus helicoid lens.
This is true, of course. It isn’t the same. All things being equal, I also prefer lenses with true manual focus adjustment over those where motors drive the “manual” focus response.
One thing though… While early implementations of motorized MF were pretty obviously not as good as what we get from non-motorized MF, the technology has come a long ways. Back in those early days, it was perhaps reasonable to say that the motorized lenses “sucked” or similar. But today I think there’s sometimes a kind of reflexive and not really objective response to the mere idea that electronic motors are involved, even on lenses where the MF is functionally very good.
This stubborn belief that the old thing is always better than the new thing is common in photography, but in the same way that it is useful to question whether every brand new innovation is actually better it is also useful to occasionally check up on new technologies to see if they are really as bad as you think they are.
There are lots of examples. One of the most obvious right now is the EVF. Two decades ago they were truly awful and distinctly a worse experience than OVFs in virtually all situations. About a decade ago EVFs were still not great but they were improving and starting to become more useful in situations where we would previously have avoided them. Today they have advanced to the point where they function as well as OVFs in almost all situation as and better in many.
In my experience the same is true of these motorized focus systems.
…using focus by wire and a slow motorized lens doesn't quite match the experience of shooting with a traditional manual focus helicoid lens.
This is true, of course. It isn’t the same. All things being equal, I also prefer lenses with true manual focus adjustment over those where motors drive the “manual” focus response.
One thing though… While early implementations of motorized MF were pretty obviously not as good as what we get from non-motorized MF, the technology has come a long ways. Back in those early days, it was perhaps reasonable to say that the motorized lenses “sucked” or similar. But today I think there’s sometimes a kind of reflexive and not really objective response to the mere idea that electronic motors are involved, even on lenses where the MF is functionally very good.
This stubborn belief that the old thing is always better than the new thing is common in photography, but in the same way that it is useful to question whether every brand new innovation is actually better it is also useful to occasionally check up on new technologies to see if they are really as bad as you think they are.
There are lots of examples. One of the most obvious right now is the EVF. Two decades ago they were truly awful and distinctly a worse experience than OVFs in virtually all situations. About a decade ago EVFs were still not great but they were improving and starting to become more useful in situations where we would previously have avoided them. Today they have advanced to the point where they function as well as OVFs in almost all situation as and better in many.
In my experience the same is true of these motorized focus systems.
Mar 28, 2024 at 08:44 AM
p.18 #20X100VI first impressions + running commentary
RoamingScott wrote:
This is a thing in film photography. Many people prefer to push a stock to get a certain look out of it, much in the same way a Fuji recipe can work via EC.
Film of course also tends to color shift rapidly as you underexpose it...Fuji recipes not as much, but it's still there to a degree especially if you've pushed the WB tint shift quite a ways.
We're talking two different things here, though.
Exposure compensation is not how much you're under or over exposing the image. It's how much you're correcting the metering. The meter wants to make a scene roughly middle gray. If you have a wide variety of subject tones in the image, this will work out great. If, however, your subject or the scene has a large amount of dark colors in it (even if well lit), the camera is going to try to bring those up to gray, rather than keeping blacks black. Thus you'll overexpose the image unless you dial in negative EC. The opposite for bright scenes (such as snow, where you need to dial in +1.5 to +2 just to get a properly exposed image, because the meter is just trying to average the scene to gray.
Even if a simulation recipe looks better 2/3 stops overexposed, you'll still need to use EC to reach that, since that's 2/3 stops over middle gray....if you don't dial it back with dark subjects, you'll end up, say 1-2/3 stops overexposed instead of 2/3 stops, or you might end up underexposed with light subjects, rather than 2/3 stops overexposed.
In any case, EC still needs to be properly applied when making your exposure.
Quick visualization with my X100V just sitting here - Same settings (Aperture priority with Auto ISO and 1/60s minimum shutter) - 0 EC dialed it.
Left is metered with the camera pointed left of the laptop, with the white doors and light walls making up most of the scene - it was a bit underexposed. Then I took a second shot, metered with the camera pointed right and the laptop taking up almost the entire frame. It's now significatnly overexposed. Both with 0 EC. The proper exposure is somewhere in the middle...where it would have been beneficial to meter to the left and dial in +2/3 or +1 EC, or meter to the right and dial in negative EC (or meter with about half the laptop in frame so it balanced out the bright part.
https://www.jordansteele.com/2024/ec.jpg
Fred Miranda wrote
It's like saying to shoot Gold film on a film camera and always overexpose it, regardless of your subject.Film of course also tends to color shift rapidly as you underexpose it...Fuji recipes not as much, but it's still there to a degree especially if you've pushed the WB tint shift quite a ways.
We're talking two different things here, though.
Exposure compensation is not how much you're under or over exposing the image. It's how much you're correcting the metering. The meter wants to make a scene roughly middle gray. If you have a wide variety of subject tones in the image, this will work out great. If, however, your subject or the scene has a large amount of dark colors in it (even if well lit), the camera is going to try to bring those up to gray, rather than keeping blacks black. Thus you'll overexpose the image unless you dial in negative EC. The opposite for bright scenes (such as snow, where you need to dial in +1.5 to +2 just to get a properly exposed image, because the meter is just trying to average the scene to gray.
Even if a simulation recipe looks better 2/3 stops overexposed, you'll still need to use EC to reach that, since that's 2/3 stops over middle gray....if you don't dial it back with dark subjects, you'll end up, say 1-2/3 stops overexposed instead of 2/3 stops, or you might end up underexposed with light subjects, rather than 2/3 stops overexposed.
In any case, EC still needs to be properly applied when making your exposure.
Quick visualization with my X100V just sitting here - Same settings (Aperture priority with Auto ISO and 1/60s minimum shutter) - 0 EC dialed it.
Left is metered with the camera pointed left of the laptop, with the white doors and light walls making up most of the scene - it was a bit underexposed. Then I took a second shot, metered with the camera pointed right and the laptop taking up almost the entire frame. It's now significatnly overexposed. Both with 0 EC. The proper exposure is somewhere in the middle...where it would have been beneficial to meter to the left and dial in +2/3 or +1 EC, or meter to the right and dial in negative EC (or meter with about half the laptop in frame so it balanced out the bright part.
https://www.jordansteele.com/2024/ec.jpg
Mar 28, 2024 at 11:28 AM