p.2 #1 · Restoring Leica Black Paint Finish to Its Original Factory Condition
Fred Miranda wrote:
It works for micro scratches. Just use the "Finish" tube. Put a small amount on the cloth included. Rub in a circular motion for about 1-2 minutes. All my micro scratches are gone. If the scratches are slightly deeper, you may need to use the "Repair" tube first, followed by the Finish paste. Of course this is from my personal experience, do at your own risk.
So I gave this a try last night. Followed what you did (as per Quixx instructions) and didn't quite get the same result, but not a terrible result either!
I found after doing one spot on the top plate that the finish on the camera changed, ever so slightly. The paint became a touch darker and glossier, creating a slight unevenness under direct artificial light. To even it out I then did every part of the top plate (not that easy around the the dials but I pretty much managed with a chopstick pushing the cloth ) and the overall result looks very good. Not a bad thing that the top plate looks a touch glossier now.
I sent the camera into Leica for come calibration today but when I get it back I'll probably do the other parts of the camera too just to even it out. It's not noticeable that the top plate is polished and the sides are not, but I think the end result will look stunning when it's all done!
My light scratches didn't quite come out either, but they are probably less noticeable due to the extra gloss. The scratches are hairline and not that bothersome so I'm wondering if it's worth the risk using the 'Repair' tube hmmm.
Interesting that the same method with the same polish kit yielded a different result though? I guess art is not science
p.2 #2 · Restoring Leica Black Paint Finish to Its Original Factory Condition
yueytan wrote:
So I gave this a try last night. Followed what you did (as per Quixx instructions) and didn't quite get the same result, but not a terrible result either!
I found after doing one spot on the top plate that the finish on the camera changed, ever so slightly. The paint became a touch darker and glossier, creating a slight unevenness under direct artificial light. To even it out I then did every part of the top plate (not that easy around the the dials but I pretty much managed with a chopstick pushing the cloth ) and the overall result looks very good. Not a bad thing that the top plate looks a touch glossier now.
I sent the camera into Leica for come calibration today but when I get it back I'll probably do the other parts of the camera too just to even it out. It's not noticeable that the top plate is polished and the sides are not, but I think the end result will look stunning when it's all done!
My light scratches didn't quite come out either, but they are probably less noticeable due to the extra gloss. The scratches are hairline and not that bothersome so I'm wondering if it's worth the risk using the 'Repair' tube hmmm.
Interesting that the same method with the same polish kit yielded a different result though? I guess art is not science ...Show more →
That is a very good point and could help others doing this. Perhaps I failed to mention that when I applied the 'finish' paste, I made sure to cover the entire section of the top (where the Leica engraving is located). I only rubbed the paste for about 2 minutes, and it removed 100% of my minor scratches. I didn't notice any change in the shim, but that might be due to the short rubbing time and the fact that I applied it to the entire area.
p.2 #3 · Restoring Leica Black Paint Finish to Its Original Factory Condition
Fred Miranda wrote:
That is a very good point and could help others doing this. Perhaps I failed to mention that when I applied the 'finish' paste, I made sure to cover the entire section of the top (where the Leica engraving is located). I only rubbed the paste for about 2 minutes, and it removed 100% of my minor scratches. I didn't notice any change in the shim, but that might be due to the short rubbing time and the fact that I applied it to the entire area.
Ah I see. Yes, if you did an entire portion at once you wouldn't notice the difference to the shine/finish. It's very subtle, in any case.
I did between 60-120 seconds. I might give it another go to further get rid of micro scratches when I get the camera back from Leica.
My next project is removing the white lettering from my SL3. I saw your post a while back for doing it on the SL2 but I need to further research on whether the housing material is the same on the SL3!
p.2 #4 · Restoring Leica Black Paint Finish to Its Original Factory Condition
Nice result, but I probably wouldn't touch the paint though! I'm a violinist and in the violin world there's a never ending debate whether one should touch up instrument's varnish. Most people just leave blemishes as they are. There is even "antiqued finish" that left the bench like it been through decades and centuries of use! Pretty common even a century or two back.
The first few scratches and brassing will be unsightly but when it collect more it'll create charm. Personally that's the reason why I don't get black paint body as it'll drive me crazy!
p.2 #5 · Restoring Leica Black Paint Finish to Its Original Factory Condition
Found this thread after receiving a used M10-R Black Paint. Ordered the polish set from AMZ and tried the Finish compound today as mentioned. Sorry didn’t take pictures.
There are swirls around 3 different parts of the top front and back, but no scratches fortunately. Also the swirls are light, visible if you tilt the camera at certain angles where the light would hit. Looking at it straight on wouldn’t show, so they are somewhat light. Feeling a bit nervous, took small dabs and rubbed for about 2 minutes. Overall, swirls definitely have minimized, but not gone completely; perhaps I didn’t apply heavy pressure, just firm pressure during the rubbing.
I don’t know if I worked at the spots either longer or heavier pressure, perhaps they might be completely gone. But in reading prior posts, I didn’t want to have to do the whole surface to avoid shinier parts that were rubbed. So net, net, I’m good with things as they are…for now. Perhaps if more marks are added from use, maybe take another go at it.
p.2 #6 · Restoring Leica Black Paint Finish to Its Original Factory Condition
RAG_landscapes wrote:
Found this thread after receiving a used M10-R Black Paint. Ordered the polish set from AMZ and tried the Finish compound today as mentioned. Sorry didn’t take pictures.
There are swirls around 3 different parts of the top front and back, but no scratches fortunately. Also the swirls are light, visible if you tilt the camera at certain angles where the light would hit. Looking at it straight on wouldn’t show, so they are somewhat light. Feeling a bit nervous, took small dabs and rubbed for about 2 minutes. Overall, swirls definitely have minimized, but not gone completely; perhaps I didn’t apply heavy pressure, just firm pressure during the rubbing.
I don’t know if I worked at the spots either longer or heavier pressure, perhaps they might be completely gone. But in reading prior posts, I didn’t want to have to do the whole surface to avoid shinier parts that were rubbed. So net, net, I’m good with things as they are…for now. Perhaps if more marks are added from use, maybe take another go at it.
You can also try using the "Polish" tube. It's more abrasive but effective at removing marks, as long as they aren't too deep into the paint. The process is the same—about 2 minutes. You can apply some pressure, but ensure the surface is completely clean and that you're using a new cloth. A microfiber cloth or the one included works well. Keep in mind that the surface might become slightly shinier, so it's best to polish entire sections of the camera for an even finish.
p.2 #7 · Restoring Leica Black Paint Finish to Its Original Factory Condition
Thanks for this recommendation! I just got an M11 glossy black paint and it instantly got a scratch on the bottom. I've ordered the remover and will give it a try.
p.2 #8 · Restoring Leica Black Paint Finish to Its Original Factory Condition
bcaslis wrote:
Thanks for this recommendation! I just got an M11 glossy black paint and it instantly got a scratch on the bottom. I've ordered the remover and will give it a try.
After removing the scratches, it might be a good idea to protect the bottom plate. I'm not sure how easy that is for the M11, but this works well for the M10 series: https://www.fredmiranda.com/forum/topic/1864469/
p.2 #9 · Restoring Leica Black Paint Finish to Its Original Factory Condition
Fred Miranda wrote:
After removing the scratches, it might be a good idea to protect the bottom plate. I'm not sure how easy that is for the M11, but this works well for the M10 series: https://www.fredmiranda.com/forum/topic/1864469/
p.2 #10 · Restoring Leica Black Paint Finish to Its Original Factory Condition
Hi Fred, recently I scratched the edge of the back screen on my Q3. Do you think this will work. The scratch is not harsh but I wouldn't mind trying this method before getting a skin to cover it. I know some people might say this building memories but this was a stupid mistake from my end. Fred, do you have anodized finish on your M10?
p.2 #11 · Restoring Leica Black Paint Finish to Its Original Factory Condition
Zelaya wrote:
Hi Fred, recently I scratched the edge of the back screen on my Q3. Do you think this will work. The scratch is not harsh but I wouldn't mind trying this method before getting a skin to cover it. I know some people might say this building memories but this was a stupid mistake from my end. Fred, do you have anodized finish on your M10?
p.2 #17 · Restoring Leica Black Paint Finish to Its Original Factory Condition
Zelaya wrote:
I end up ordering the last pen in stock from Walmart.
Another thing to keep in mind when using the pen is that it will only darken the unfinished metal, not the finished surface. So you can apply it and then simply wipe off any excess from the anodized black areas afterward.
p.2 #18 · Restoring Leica Black Paint Finish to Its Original Factory Condition
Just chiming in here as I've been using the same product regularly for a while. Lifts micro scratches out brilliantly .
The deeper ones picked up here and there don't come out but are improved.
I think it's great to do this whilst the camera wears , so that brassing can take place around it without the rest of the camera surfaces looking like an ice rink
p.2 #20 · Restoring Leica Black Paint Finish to Its Original Factory Condition
Andrew CD wrote:
So a worn look can be achieved with sandpaper?
Makes me wonder if someone has been surreptitiously applying sandpaper to me when I was asleep ….
(With apologies for lowering the tone.)
Actually microdermabrasion is a real dermatological treatment to rejuvenate skin.
So if you have woken up looking younger, it wasn’t just the beauty sleep
) and the overall result looks very good. Not a bad thing that the top plate looks a touch glossier now.
