p.2 #1 · Negative Lab Pro Settings: Your preferences
OregonSun wrote:
I convert all shots from one shooting session (i.e. same location/lighting) at the same time. I adjust one image from that batch, sync settings across the batch, then adjust individual images as needed. I often don't need to make any additional adjustments to the individual images.
I do usually end up fine tuning each image to a greater or lesser degree in LR once the conversion is done.
Great tip. I was trying to do the entire roll at once but batching only the images from the same location/lighting is the way to go!
p.2 #2 · Negative Lab Pro Settings: Your preferences
Reviving this to see if anyone prefers using the new "Pakon" profile when converting. Sometimes it can be a bit too contrasty, but most of the time it gets me almost exactly where I want to go with minimal editing.
p.2 #3 · Negative Lab Pro Settings: Your preferences
Old Thread.. but new to digitally copying film.
Regarding the stock 5% border setting, does this insure that the complete image is included, or does it play a role in setting the conversion colors?
Given the large dynamic range of most cameras, I assume that best practice is to set exposure through the use of the histogram and use this for exposing subsequent negatives.
I’m using a Negative Lab Pro Mini LED light. There is no stated color temperature, so I’m guessing that setting the camera to 5000-5500 degrees would be a good starting point, but if NLP does sample the “clear” edge of the film and you use RAW, this might be an unnecessary step.
p.2 #4 · Negative Lab Pro Settings: Your preferences
I believe the border setting is only to zoom in a bit so that no clear parts of the film are included in calculating the conversion, it is not an actual crop of the image in conversion. This can be changed if you have larger areas of border. Areas that are not part of the image should be gone with the border setting or else you may get an inaccurate conversion.
I find that you should find a well exposed frame, something not all dark or light, average and use that to set the exposure. There is usually no need to adjust. Some recommend to overexpose slightly maybe 1/3-2/3 stop. If there are very large differences in the films exposure you probably should adjust those frames a bit to get them close. Sometimes NLP will give a message saying it sees large exposure variance so it will not use exposure data. It just means you problem have large changes in the lighting within your roll of film.
White balance does not matter on the scanning process, just use daylight. Once loaded into lightroom, use the white balance dropper and reset it on the edge of the film or any area that is even color. NLP does not adjust white balance so you need to set white balance of the film before conversion
p.2 #5 · Negative Lab Pro Settings: Your preferences
I’ve been rading this thread and have a basic question. Is NLB for processing a color negative image obtained by using a DSLR to copy the negative in RAW? I looked at the NLB site’s video and that didn’t answer my question.
I did see a page on their site that mentioned needing a good scan from Silverfast RAW DNG. I tried scanning in raw in Silverfsst and ended up with a b&w file.
p.2 #6 · Negative Lab Pro Settings: Your preferences
NLP can process color negatives or positives or black and white. Take a raw picture of the film with your digital camera and then convert in Lightroom with NLP, it can convert color film into black and white as well during the conversion. You select what type of film it is, usually negative and what output you would like color or B+W. You can also use silverfast and a scanner as well.
