My 50 lux v1 still back focuses slightly at f/1.4 on the RF. I tried it at f/2 and it’s spot on. It was recently CLA’d any DAG and he adjusted focus. He said it’s perfectly calibrated using Leica’s test equipment. But that he can front focus it on the test equipment so that it’s perfectly calibrated with the RF at f/1.4. I’m guessing that will induce focus shift, so I’m still deciding on that.
But since we’re talking about f/2 figured I’d do a few comparisons with my Summicron Rigid type 1 from 1966. Both lenses with a recent CLA. Focused via EVF on tripod. Daylight WB in camera. I included f/1.4 on the lux also to show the softness and leica glow.
The rigid is known for being a very sharp lens (type 1 maybe not as sharp). But these results surprised me just how quickly the lux sharpens up. At f/2 it’s already sharper than the rigid.
Lux 1.4
LEICA M10-PSummilux-M 1:1.4/50 lens50mmf/4.01/4000s200 ISO-0.3 EV
Lux f2
LEICA M10-PSummilux-M 1:1.4/50 lens50mmf/4.01/4000s200 ISO-0.3 EV
Rigid f2
LEICA M10-PSummicron 1:2/50 Leitz lens50mmf/4.01/3000s200 ISO-0.3 EV
Lux 1.4
LEICA M10-PSummilux-M 1:1.4/50 lens50mmf/2.01/250s200 ISO0.0 EV
Lux f2
LEICA M10-PSummilux-M 1:1.4/50 lens50mmf/2.81/125s200 ISO0.0 EV
Rigid f2
LEICA M10-PSummicron 1:2/50 Leitz lens50mmf/2.81/90s200 ISO0.0 EV
Lux 1.4
LEICA M10-PSummilux-M 1:1.4/50 lens50mmf/4.01/4000s200 ISO-0.3 EV
Lux 2
LEICA M10-PSummilux-M 1:1.4/50 lens50mmf/3.41/3000s200 ISO-0.3 EV
Rigid f2
LEICA M10-PSummicron 1:2/50 Leitz lens50mmf/3.41/2000s200 ISO0.0 EV
Lux 1.4 (focus point on roof)
LEICA M10-PSummilux-M 1:1.4/50 lens50mmf/4.01/4000s200 ISO-0.3 EV
Lux f2 (focus point on roof)
LEICA M10-PSummilux-M 1:1.4/50 lens50mmf/4.01/3000s200 ISO-0.3 EV
Rigid f2 (focus point on roof)
LEICA M10-PSummicron 1:2/50 Leitz lens50mmf/2.01/3000s200 ISO-0.3 EV
lifeandmylens wrote:
My 50 lux v1 still back focuses slightly at f/1.4 on the RF. I tried it at f/2 and it’s spot on. It was recently CLA’d any DAG and he adjusted focus. He said it’s perfectly calibrated using Leica’s test equipment. But that he can front focus it on the test equipment so that it’s perfectly calibrated with the RF at f/1.4. I’m guessing that will induce focus shift, so I’m still deciding on that.
But since we’re talking about f/2 figured I’d do a few comparisons with my Summicron Rigid type 1 from 1966. Both lenses with a recent CLA. Focused via EVF on tripod. Daylight WB in camera. I included f/1.4 on the lux also to show the softness and leica glow.
The rigid is known for being a very sharp lens (type 1 maybe not as sharp). But these results surprised me just how quickly the lux sharpens up. At f/2 it’s already sharper than the rigid....Show more →
I agree with Don. Even Leica doesn't adjust lenses that have a significant focus shift for the widest aperture. If you adjust the lens in that way and then stop down the aperture by 1 or 2 stops, the images will be noticeably out of focus.
However, there is a drastic but easy solution to make it work perfectly with your camera's RF at f/1.4. You can use fine sandpaper (on a very flat surface) to slightly shave the mount, which will allow you to make very precise adjustments for your RF when shooting at maximum aperture. If you change your mind later, you can always add shims to the mount to revert back to the previous state.
BTW, The 50/2 Rigid is very easy to adjust. My copy was 100% aligned with my M10-R's RF by slightly rotating this black ring:
Fred Miranda wrote:
I agree with Don. Even Leica doesn't adjust lenses that have a significant focus shift for the widest aperture. If you adjust the lens in that way and then stop down the aperture by 1 or 2 stops, the images will be noticeably out of focus.
However, there is a drastic but easy solution to make it work perfectly with your camera's RF at f/1.4. You can use fine sandpaper (on a very flat surface) to slightly shave the mount, which will allow you to make very precise adjustments for your RF when shooting at maximum aperture. If you change your mind later, you can always add shims to the mount to revert back to the previous state.
BTW, The 50/2 Rigid is very easy to adjust. My copy was 100% aligned with my M10-R's RF by slightly rotating this black ring:...Show more →
Very interesting thanks Fred. My rigid is well calibrated at f/2. Don said he'll adjust focus at no charge. It actually front focused before I sent it to him. So I'm guessing he shimmed it a little too much. But what exactly are you sanding down? Where I marked with an arrow?
lifeandmylens wrote:
Very interesting thanks Fred. My rigid is well calibrated at f/2. Don said he'll adjust focus at no charge. It actually front focused before I sent it to him. So I'm guessing he shimmed it a little too much. But what exactly are you sanding down? Where I marked with an arrow?
When it comes to the Rigid lens, sanding it down is unnecessary as the helicoid adjustment can be effortlessly achieved by disassembling the lens with a spanner. This instructional video demonstrates the simple process.
Once disassembled, all you have to do is rotate the black ring (shown on my previous images above) to adjust the lens to your RF, and no additional steps are required. You can also clean for dust if needed.
Regarding the sanding (for other more complicated to adjust), you have to remove the mount (by removing the screws) and sand the opposite 'flat' side of the mount. Make sure surface is 100% flat and it's not a big adjustment, just a fine-tuning.
Fred Miranda wrote:
Regarding the sanding (for other more complicated to adjust), you have to remove the mount (by removing the screws) and sand the opposite 'flat' side of the mount. Make sure surface is 100% flat and it's not a big adjustment, just a fine-tuning.
I see thank you. The mounting flange on the lux v1 is part of the focusing system and is not held on by screws.
lifeandmylens wrote:
I see thank you. The mounting flange on the lux v1 is part of the focusing system and is not held on by screws.
Oh, I've never tried the v1 but if the screws are not on the mount, they are probably on the side or the barrel.
But than again, a slightly front-focus is normal operation for these lenses in order to compensate for focus shift at smaller apertures. This valuable information was shared with me by a Leica technician while they were servicing my v4 lens.
Fred Miranda wrote:
When it comes to the Rigid lens, sanding it down is unnecessary as the helicoid adjustment can be effortlessly achieved by disassembling the lens with a spanner. This instructional video demonstrates the simple process.
Once disassembled, all you have to do is rotate the black ring (shown on my previous images above) to adjust the lens to your RF, and no additional steps are required. You can also clean for dust if needed.
Regarding the sanding (for other more complicated to adjust), you have to remove the mount (by removing the screws) and sand the opposite 'flat' side of the mount. Make sure surface is 100% flat and it's not a big adjustment, just a fine-tuning. ...Show more →
I have to laugh at this one Fred....I keep thinking about the DAG interview you posted. BAHAHAHA
This is a good comparison. I was thinking about a rigid with all the positive feedback. However, based on the comparison you posted and looking at the MTF chart for both the rigid summicron and the pre-asph Summilux I think I will skip the rigid. Both the Summicron rigid and Summilux are equally strong in the center, but the corners on the summilux drop off faster than the Summicron especially stopped down. Summilux pre-asph appears to have slightly better fine detail resolution in the center stopped down as well.
cbass wrote:
This is a good comparison. I was thinking about a rigid with all the positive feedback. However, based on the comparison you posted and looking at the MTF chart for both the rigid summicron and the pre-asph Summilux I think I will skip the rigid. Both the Summicron rigid and Summilux are equally strong in the center, but the corners on the summilux drop off faster than the Summicron especially stopped down. Summilux pre-asph appears to have slightly better fine detail resolution in the center stopped down as well.
I agree. The rigid is a beautiful lens. The infinity lock can be a little annoying when focusing near (but not at) infinity. It's also slightly smaller and lighter than the summilux. But I sold the rigid and decided to keep the v1 lux for my "character 50". Wide open it renders very similarly to the 35 lux pre asph with its softness and glow. Stop it down just one stop and it sharpens up very well. It's more of a "two in one" lens than the rigid is.
I also have a noctilux, and just recently acquired a 50 cron v3 that I've not yet tried but got a great deal on. So I think I'll have 50mm covered.
lifeandmylens wrote:
I agree. The rigid is a beautiful lens. The infinity lock can be a little annoying when focusing near (but not at) infinity. It's also slightly smaller and lighter than the summilux. But I sold the rigid and decided to keep the v1 lux for my "character 50". Wide open it renders very similarly to the 35 lux pre asph with its softness and glow. Stop it down just one stop and it sharpens up very well. It's more of a "two in one" lens than the rigid is.
I also have a noctilux, and just recently acquired a 50 cron v3 that I've not yet tried but got a great deal on. So I think I'll have 50mm covered. ...Show more →
There might be a method to decrease the Minimum Focus Distance (MFD) of the Rigid lens, which would be excellent as my only gripe with this lens is its 1m MFD. I'll share the specifics if successful.
Update: yes, it will be possible to extend the Leica 50/2 Rigid’s MFD focus from 1m to 0.75m!
Rangefinder focus using the newly improved MFD will also possible.
