rscheffler wrote:
I'll add it's probably also a consequence of the loss of the lower end of the market to recent entrants (Godox and the likes). And just the overall shift to less need for powerful packs. Less competition in that rarified space - who else still makes 2400Ws+ 'premium' pack and head systems? There's also Broncolor. Speedotron, still exists at a more entry level price point, though looks like nothing has changed in 30 years. There's also Hensel with a 2400Ws pack for $3K. In fact, Godox now makes a 2400Ws pack... $5K for the pack, $6.2K with two heads, further eroding the premium position held by Profoto, etc. Volume goes down, prices go up. When you need it (Profoto), you'll rent it instead of owning it. ...Show more →
Thank both of you! I bought a 3 light Westcott system, 1,000 WS, but there are some interiors I want to light to daylight. I found a lot of inexpensive 2-4KWS studio strobes for sale and have built up a nice lighting kit for not too much money. 12+KWS of strobes with stands, reflectors, softboxes, umbrellas and fixtures for under $3K. I'm sitting next to a beautiful 2400 WS Norman Pack with stepless power that was $340 delivered. New $3600. Go Profoto!
I would suggest if you go this route only buy power packs that are guaranteed working and only from people who also have flash heads. Almost every pack I bought from a pack only seller had problems. Every flash head I bought worked. Find a manual and read it. These units are 900 Volts DC so you really need to operate them correctly. New power packs have more features but they are all High Voltage DC.
WaterfallJumper wrote:
...Any trouble with the power output? ...
It really depends on a lot of factors. How close are you (or the flash) to the action...
I shoot a lot of sports and often can't really get them close (wakeboard, snowboard, FMX,...). That's why I use 2x1200.
rscheffler wrote:
It helps that strobe exposure tends to 'freeze' subject motion, but it's not quite as simple as that, and is complicated by the amount of ambient light you wish to retain in the images. Even if the strobe is able to freeze the motion, if you're working at 1/250 max normal flash sync speed, if there is enough ambient light, you can get 'ghosting' (somewhat of a double image), which is the ambient light visibly mixing with your flash exposure.
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Buff's 11" long throw reflector: https://www.paulcbuff.com/Light-Modifiers/Reflectors/11-Long-Throw-Reflector.html
1) excellent point about action vs. static portrait (which is what I would mostly do outdoors). Having said that, the OP's shown work is almost all flash, so there wouldn't be much ghosting, I think. It would be interesting to try both techniques and see the difference.
2) I've been looking for the Buff Retro Laser for several years with an eBay search. Nothing
