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OK, a topic I do have some expertise on! I live in Winnipeg Manitoba and we can get ambient temperatures very similar to further north, like Churchill. I have also been to Churchill (very end of October/beginning of November). One of the big differences is the wind that can come of Hudson Bay can make it feel much colder than the ambient temperature, so wind-resistent or windproof clothing is important.
You don't say (nor does info indicate) what country you are from, so I am going to assume you are not familiar with this kind of cold.
Think of your body as four zones - feet, hands, head (especially ears), the rest. If you feet, hands or ears or cold, you will be miserable! If the body gets cold, you will be unhappy. Not diminishing the importance of a warm body, but it getting cold is not the same as the pain you can experience with toes, fingers and ears.
Feet: marino wool socks, good boots. So what's "good boots"? First off, understand that temperature ratings on boots are not regulated and are next to useless in helping you pick a good boot. I have a pair of -40c rated Sorel boots in which my feet get cold in two hours outside in -10c. They are good for walking the dog and shoveling the driveway but not much else. Recommendations/reviews are far more valuable than vendor temperature ratings. I am 100% with jcolwell on Baffin Boots. I bought a pair of Baffin Evolution, which are rated for -70c and the are fantastic. I have been out for nearly four hours of photography in -35c and it was only at the end of that four hours that my toes started to feel a bit cold. This will cost you some money but your feet will be very happy. There may be other, less expensive Baffin boots that will be more suitable for what you expect to be doing.
Head: A couple of approaches for cold weather, but both start with a technical balaclava. This will cover pretty much everything but an area around your eyes, and helps to protect you from wind and snow (also wicks moisture away if you are working hard, like cross-country skiing, snowshoeing, etc). It covers the head and neck. The better ones will have a different material over the mouth to make them more breathable, but you won't need that unless you plan on doing some intense cardio outside (running from polar bears?). A neck gator is inexpensive and is a nice addition over the balaclava. It is like a tube that you pull over your head down to your neck (it would go over the balaclava). Now the two options. If your parka has a hood (most do), then get a toque (a knitted winter hat that is double layered over the ears). Wool is best but others work. Also get an ear (AKA head) band. If the weather is unseasonably mild, you might just wear the ear band. If it is a bit cooler, you would wear the toque. Colder yet? Wear the balaclava and toque. Bitterly cold? Wear the balaclava, toque and put the hood up on the parka. The second option is a trappers hat instead of a toque, but unless you really dislike the cold or plan to be out in it for a long time, it might be overkill (and it is bulkier).
The body: this is the easiest. Layers! Best for the lower body is long johns/long underwear and ski pants. A "poor man's" option would be long underwear, heavy sweatpants and quality windproof pants. Upper body would be a long sleeved moisture wicking undershirt, then a mid layer (something moderately warm with a full front zipper) and then a parka. You want the mid layer to have a full front zipper so that you can partially or even completely unzip it if the weather is unseasonably warm. You want a parka with a hood, outside pockets (can put photography gadgets, extenders, head bands, gloves, toques, etc) and at least one inner pocket (keep your batteries there because you will have the one in the camera die faster in the cold but your body will keep your spares warm and ready to go. The zipper is important. You want a velcro sealed flap that covers the zipper so the wind doesn't cut through the zipper (and it absolutely will). Not mandatory but very nice for photography is if the zipper is dual ended - you can pull one zipper tag up from the bottom to close the parka and pull another zipper tag up from the bottom to unzip from the bottom. Being able to unzip from the bottom a few/several inches is very nice for being able to kneel for shots without the parking tugging on you (or worse, the zipper literally coming apart from the bottom up and being hard to unzip/rezip). You want a winter parka, not a winter jacket. Winter jackets barely cover the bum, are generally a bit less warm and sometimes have hoods that are just shells (so just protect you from wind but of little assistance otherwise in keeping your head warm).
Hands. Ugh. It is easy to have something covering the hands and take photos. It is easy to keep the hands warm. It is difficult to keep the hands warm AND take photos. This is probably going to depend on your style of shooting. If you tend to make a lot of camera adjustments requiring fine motor movements, then you probably want to go with a dual glove system. If you just tend to turn large dials and press the shutter, good mitts with a wind shell is the way to go. It is tough to find a good pair of mitts that will keep your hands warm AND let you do BBF on your camera, so think of that. I went through a number of mitts before I found one that minimally inhibits my control of the camera, but it still does a bit (mostly with the smallish BBF button). This is my compromise for being out in -30c type weather for extended periods of time. You might be best to go with the dual glove approach. B&H has a great selection of gloves. Not saying you have to buy there, but it is a great site for checking out your options. I bought a pair of Freehands stretch gloves for the under layer. They provide a bit of protection and have material on the thumb and second finger for operating digital devices (cameras, cell phones, etc). My outer glove is a Freehands glove too. They don't have the exact glove I bought anymore, but it is similar to the softshell ski/snowboard glove. It is nice for photography because the thumb and second finger tips can be pulled back. Note that this does mean they are not as warm as some other options. So the last piece of the puzzle - chemical hand warmer packs. Shake up a pack to activate the chemicals and then put it between the inner glove and outer glove (on top of the hand is best as it doesn't get in the way of taking photos).
Now you are all set! When my friend and I went to Churchill, there were many people woefully underdressed on the tundra buggies. It was bad for them because they couldn't stay out on the platforms very long but it was great for us because we were often the only two on the platform!
Dressed like this, you will be able to stay out for extended durations but also adapt quickly and easily to warmer than usual weather. Besides batteries in your inside parka pocket, note that your camera will fog up when you go back inside the tundra buggy. Putting the cap on the lens will help the front element but for the camera overall, you will need to either keep it inside your park OR have a sweater or blanket that you can toss over it so that it doesn't warm quickly and get moisture inside (or if your camera bag is big enough, put it in there and just flip the front panel over it (you don't need to zip it in) while you sip a hot chocolate. Lastly, don't change cards while out on the platform . Even if your hands are toasty warm, thee is the chance you drop the card. The platforms are a grate and the card will fall through to the ground and you will not be able to retrieve it (although the polar bears would like you to try!). Step inside the tundra buggy, quickly make the change and head back out.
Good luck and have a great trip!
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