Anyone have a link to a good 6 bit coding template for Leica M mount? I think I am ready to code my lenses so the switch automatically when I change lenses.
I have acquired paint and hardware, tried hard and failed miserably - specifically on lenses that have an indent in the area where the code belongs. And a number of lenses have their bayonets screwed and glued onto the body, so are hard to swap for coding-friendly replacements... All is reversible though! Good luck.
Yes, those are the same templates I found. I will give them a try.
UPDATE
OK, I have printed the templates. I tried to print the JPEG files. The scaling was way off no matter what I tried. I then tried just inserting the image in a blank MS Word Document. I printed that, cut it out, and it seems to fit perfectly.
This week I will get some model paint and give it a try. I will update everyone with the results.
I have a friend with a very good flat laser cutter. I will see if he can cut some templates out in thin plastic. If anyone is interested I will get some extras made.
markhout wrote:
I have acquired paint and hardware, tried hard and failed miserably - specifically on lenses that have an indent in the area where the code belongs. And a number of lenses have their bayonets screwed and glued onto the body, so are hard to swap for coding-friendly replacements... All is reversible though! Good luck.
I think that going with templates and model paint seems to be the best path. I am reluctant to use a cheaply produced mount on either my lens or the camera. Taking apart a lens is more than I want to risk. I have also read some reports of less than ideal fits with those replacement mounts.
I tried marking with just a permanent black sharpie. When I try to switch to Lens Detection Auto it doesn't stick. It just goes back to manual. Does this indicate that the mark isn't being read, or am I missing something else.
I tested by marking my 50mm as it requires only one black bar.
I tried marking with just a permanent black sharpie. When I try to switch to Lens Detection Auto it doesn't stick. It just goes back to manual. Does this indicate that the mark isn't being read, or am I missing something else.
I tested by marking my 50mm as it requires only one black bar.
Permanent black sharpie may not work well because it's too reflective. One should use "flat" black paint instead.
I recommend "Testors" flat black paint. It has worked for me for all my 6-bit code usage.
A tip is to outline the area to be painted (using the template above) with an ultra thin sharpie. Then use a fine paint brush to add the paint inside the outlined area. It works every time and looks good. For most mounts, you don't need white code, only black.
6-bit code using the method above (same template). Voigt 28/2 II ==> Leica 28/2 code.
The mount on Cosina lenses have an indentation where the 6-bit code paint resides without the risk of being rubbed off when mounting/un-mounting the lens. It won't work with flat mounts without this indentation -- like with older Leica lenses for example.
I have used the templates shown above along with a Sharpie oil based PAINT pen. I used the FINE point black and white (I found that using both colors was needed). Very easy to apply, dries in a few minutes, and all of my VM lenses show up as coded on the M10R.
The paint pens come in a pack of black, white and a couple other colors for $12 on Amazon.
I have gotten my 28mm, and my 50mm to work with the sharpie. But they are not perfectly consistent. It is probably because the ink is too reflective as Fred says. It may not last as well as paint either. But it was a good test of the template. I will do it again with paint once I get the templates made.
I bought replacement flanges from jinfinance on Ebay. The guy sells them for Zeiss & Voigt and they have holes for 6 bit coding.
Sometimes, they are not listed but you can contact him directly and tell him what you want: he is a very nice guy.
I've coded my 50/1.5 Voigt this way and I plan on doing the same with other lenses.
Beware: most of the lenses accept the "generic" flanges but some need specific one such as the new 90/2.8 Apo. I'm not sure about the 28/2.
I now have all of my lenses with working encoding. This is what I have found.
1.) It is fairly simple to do. If you want to have the camera auto detect the lenses go ahead and do it.
2.) The template linked above works fine, and is easy to use. Just make sure the outer diameter of the template measures exactly 2" when you print it.
3.) It is best to cut out the 6 bit holes, and the notch prior to cutting out the rest. Do a precision job with the interior diameter, but leave a lot of extra material on the outer diameter. This helps you hold the template in position.
4.) You can get the Sharpie Ink to work with multiple coats to get it dark and thick. After the last coat roughen to surface a little bit by rubbing it. I used a Q-Tip. This is not the best method. I will redo mine with mat black model paint for a more permanent installation.
5.) You only need to paint the Black Bits. The camera doesn't read then others.
6.) If you have two black bits next to each other you can paint them as one large single bit. This is easier to position and paint. It works fine done like that.
7.) When looking at the lens from the rear The first bit is the one on the right. Be sure to paint from right to left with the bit code.
My lenses were fairly easy.
The CV 50mm f/1.5 Nokton v2 required only one slot painted and it was the furthest on the right.
The CV 75mm f/1.5 Nokton is also easy requiring the same one on the right as the 50mm, and the two (joined) on the far left. No gaps to be properly sized as unpainted. Very easy.
The CV 28mm f/2 Ultron was the most difficult because all the black slots are in the center so gaps must be maintained properly. This except for the two adjoining slots that can be painted together as described.
I noticed another interesting thing. I coded my 50mm and 75mm first. I had the 28mm set as the lens in manual mode. When the camera detects an encoded lens it switches to Auto automatically. If it doesn't detect a valid encoded lens it reverts to the manual setting. This meant that by coding just two lenses, all three of my lenses were being properly reported in the EXIF.
I am still going to try and have the permanent templates made, and to redo my lenses with proper paint. I will keep everyone posted if successful with that, and make the templates available to those who want them.
Mark Sisco wrote:
Great info Steve. How did you determine which codes to use for non-Leica lenses?
Mark, here is a good list to start with. If it is not on this list just choose the Leica model closest in focal length, f stop, and spherical or non spherical.
Mark Sisco wrote:
Great info Steve. How did you determine which codes to use for non-Leica lenses?
Generally a code close in a Leica lens will work OK. You can be more careful by shooting an evenly illuminated wall with all the manual codes for that focal length and then choose the one that has the best correction. I generally do the latter. Mostly it just confirms the easy way but occassionally I find a better code for a lens.
I bought replacement bases for Leica and Voigtlander lenses from eBay. Some were already coded, some were not. I bought Sharpie Paint pens. You want flat colors, not glossy. I bought the better ones from eBay (USA) and they've been flawless. No focusing issues and codes were read perfectly. https://www.ebay.com/itm/293636207322
Joel
1bwana1 wrote:
I have gotten my 28mm, and my 50mm to work with the sharpie. But they are not perfectly consistent. It is probably because the ink is too reflective as Fred says. It may not last as well as paint either. But it was a good test of the template. I will do it again with paint once I get the templates made.
So far I have only coded with Sharpie markers. Over the years I've noticed that code read failure usually happens in bright conditions because there is some light leakage around the mount that causes the code reader to malfunction. Mostly I noticed it happened when there was direct sunlight shining on that area of the mount interface. Simply jamming a finger up against this area of the mount would usually result in a properly read code. I've heard of some using plush black hair elastics/scrunchies to do the same thing, but primarily to block light leaks during longer daytime exposures.
FWIW, every once in a while my M240 will not read the code of a Leica factory coded lens, possibly due to light leakage in bright conditions.
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1bwana1 wrote:
I noticed another interesting thing. I coded my 50mm and 75mm first. I had the 28mm set as the lens in manual mode. When the camera detects an encoded lens it switches to Auto automatically. If it doesn't detect a valid encoded lens it reverts to the manual setting. This meant that by coding just two lenses, all three of my lenses were being properly reported in the EXIF.
That is interesting however it might not be consistent across all generations of digital M cameras. I just checked it to confirm, but my own experience over the years with the M240 has been that when lens detection is set manually, it will stay at that setting no matter what else is mounted that is already coded. I have accidentally done that many, many times!
Maybe it was a new feature as of the M10 series? It would be nice to get confirmation of this behavior with other camera models.
If I code my Voigtlander 35/2 APO Lanthar with 011110 and my M10 Monochrom reads it correctly, the camera will assume I've attached a Summicron-M 35mm f/2 ASPH.
There's no way for the camera to determine I'm using a Voigtlander but it will report the correct f stop, focal length, ISO, and present the correct RF frames.
Timphoto wrote:
Just to make certain I understand correctly.
If I code my Voigtlander 35/2 APO Lanthar with 011110 and my M10 Monochrom reads it correctly, the camera will assume I've attached a Summicron-M 35mm f/2 ASPH.
There's no way for the camera to determine I'm using a Voigtlander but it will report the correct f stop, focal length, ISO, and present the correct RF frames.
If you code your Voigtlander lenses they will be seen by the camera as the Leica lens you coded it to. The camera will apply the Leica corrections for vignette and distortion. These are usually reasonably close to those of the corresponding Voigtlander lenses.
The EXIF data will display as follows.
1.) The Coded for Leica lens model
2.) The coded for Focal length
3.) The camera doesn't get any electronic information from either a Leica or Voigtlander lens. Based on exposure and other camera settings like Shutter Speed and ISO the camera will calculate an estimated aperture. Unfortunately, this is often wrong and unreliable whether using Leica or Voigtlander lenses.
4.) The camera know the Shutter Speed the image was shot at so this will be correctly reported.
5.) The camera knows the ISO the image was shot at so this will be correctly reported.
Since you will code the Voigtlander lens to the same values as a Leica lens with the same Focal Length, the Range Finder will show the appropriate Frame Lines when shooting.
1bwana1 wrote:
If you code your Voigtlander lenses they will be seen by the camera as the Leica lens you coded it to. The camera will apply the Leica corrections for vignette and distortion. These are usually reasonably close to those of the corresponding Voigtlander lenses.
The EXIF data will display as follows.
1.) The Coded for Leica lens model
2.) The coded for Focal length
3.) The camera doesn't get any electronic information from either a Leica or Voigtlander lens. Based on exposure and other camera settings like Shutter Speed and ISO the camera will calculate an estimated aperture. Unfortunately, this is often wrong and unreliable whether using Leica or Voigtlander lenses.
4.) The camera know the Shutter Speed the image was shot at so this will be correctly reported.
5.) The camera knows the ISO the image was shot at so this will be correctly reported.
Since you will code the Voigtlander lens to the same values as a Leica lens with the same Focal Length, the Range Finder will show the appropriate Frame Lines when shooting.
