You've had suggestions of Canon and Nikon, even Fuji GFX, so clearly you need a Sony recommendation to round out your options...
You might consider the Sony A7R IV. Natively it's 60Mpixel, but this is one time the pixel-shift mode could be perfect: 240Mpixel results from 16 frames. Seems like an excellent option for this. Use something like the Voigtlander 50mm APO Lanthar (a very sharp apochromatic lens).
Sauseschritt wrote:
Yes. Thats called shooting a panorama series - because you usually do that with a panorama.
Panorama series as well as combining multiple shots with subpixel movements is only really possible for static subjects though, such as a landscape or a product.
I've shot many stitched panos. It's not impossible for portraiture as long as the model and lighting are static - Brenizer shots do it all the time. I will grant you that it's certainly easier with a landscape.
Get something with 30 megapixels or more. You can do this easily under $2000. Then spend the rest of your budget on a lens with very good edge to edge sharpness at a focal length that is comfortable for you. Some Canon/Nikon/Sony lenses are very good, but you also have very competitive options with the Sigma Art stuff, or expensive options like Zeiss Otus....
For your purposes, you'll need to make sure your lens makes every pixel count. I honestly think your lens choice will be more of a factor in real life usage than which camera you're going to buy.
In a nutshell, shop for a lens for this specific purpose of yours, and then find a body to go with it. Many people shop the other way around, but I wouldn't do that in your case. All the major camera manufacturers will have a high-res body to go with whatever lens you pick.
For the OP...how are you planning to print? As a painter you may want to use an analog process which is more forgiving. How crisp must it be? Is the 5-8 foot distance real or do you want the image to hold up well (not perfectly but acceptably) at a 6 inch view?
The Phase One route to me is choice #1 for extremely large prints when money is no object....but usually money is an object The Sony a7rIV or any other in that range will work at a fraction of the cost. If you only want sharpness at 5-8 foot distance, you can easily use the a7rIV, from which I regularly print 40 x 60 with no issues that looks sharp from less than a foot away. It also has pixel shift mode but that will only work if everything in the frame is absolutely still. If that is the case - you are doing still life only - then 100% do Sony rIV with pixel shift, but as you're in the Portrait forum....I don't think you're doing still life
You could shoot a stitched panorama. I created at least one gorgeous 100MP image from 18 (3 rows of 6) stitched images taken by a 6D and a lowly EF 50mm f/1.4.
It's my favorite print I've made so far. Printed approx. 44" wide x 36" tall at almost exactly 250ppi on fine art paper, you can put your eyeball on it without discerning any artifacts. You could easily print it 6 to 7 feet wide as long as you didn't stand very close to it.
Taking such an image of people is ever so slightly more difficult, but still pretty easy with some care and practice.
For your purposes since you are not primarily a photographer, I would suggest you get something that's easy to use and focus and shoot and get sharp images with every time. in my opinion that means mirrorless would probably be best as it's quite easy with eye AF and zooming in with manual AF to nail your shot in a controlled environment pretty much every time. The Sony a7R IV is probably the most advanced high resolution camera that's currently available, and has some amazing lenses available for it, but the Nikon Z7 has much easier to use menus and setup will be less difficult. The Nikon will have fewer native lenses, but seeing as both are mirrorless your have the luxury of using essentially any DSLR or rangefinder lens adapted to them and they should work perfectly with manual focus.
I have been shooting for many years and started doing billboards with advertisers numerous years ago. Back then, 16 to 24 mp still made a very sharp image on a billboard sign or large print.
From my experience, i have used Nikon, Canon, Fuji, Sony, Kodak, and a few others. I was able to get great results from all of the manufacturers, once i learned that camera and lens functionality, well. You can get the same results from any of those brands.
Personally, I would invest in technology that you will not need to be replaced in ten years+. I personally would lean towards a full frame camera with a quality sharp lens that will fit your needs. I would keep it to one lens, for ease of use and portability as well. Also, get a nice, simple, and small case to keep it in as it will help protect your investment.
If you like Canon, a 5d4, 5ds, 5drs would all be great picks and the EF 24-70 2.8 ver2 lens
If you like Nikon, D850, D810, and the 24-70 nikon as well.
You can also go mirror-less, if you want to, just more expensive but most likely, not needed.
Larger cameras are an option, but i don't think you will take advantage of them. Keep in mind, you should factor in a new computer into your price point as you will want and need the speed, power, and hard drive space for these bigger files you plan to create.
MaxiMarry wrote:
To tell the truth, I don't like massive cameras they are very inconvenient. Better find something easier and compact for the perfect quality. For e[amle, I use for my Youtube channel Canon Powershot G7X Mark II I ordered it a year ago from improvevideostudio.com and it is really the best apparatus that I could imagine. Indeed, so many functions in one device, and even at such a democratic price, it's just a gift of fate. And when I travel it is very convenient to film on it in the most extreme conditions.
Do these guys provide discounts?
The Sony a7rIV or any other in that range will work at a fraction of the cost. If you only want sharpness at 5-8 foot distance, you can easily use the a7rIV, from which I regularly print 40 x 60 with no issues that looks sharp from less than a foot away. It also has pixel shift mode but that will only work if everything in the frame is absolutely still. If that is the case - you are doing still life only - then 100% do Sony rIV with pixel shift, but as you're in the Portrait forum....I don't think you're doing still life