I see these incredible macro shots on this forum. Given the subjects many seem to be hand-held.
Are they? Does everyone use a tripod?
I have a lot of trouble focusing hand-held macro. Right now using a Tamron SP 90 f2.8.
What's the secret? Is there one?
Would I be better off with something like the FE 90 macro? Is AF of any use? I read on the forum that close macros usually require MF.
- Use very high f-stop (f11 or even higher)
- Use high ISO and high shutter speed
- Have plenty of light
- Try very often. You will most of the time have to shoot many attempts until you have one sharp one. Handheld macro is actually quite frustrating and time-consuming.
Most serious macro shooters have some sort of flash system that brings the light to the subject which allows them to stop down and use lower ISO's. They usually have some modifications to broaden and soften the light. Some take it to the extreme with some crazy setups, but usually it's either a lens mounted dual strobe, or a shoe mounted rig. On the other end, I've seen people who simply used cardboard rubber-banded to a speed light covered with paper towels. Whatever works!
I'm not sure what Sony offers in terms of macro flash set ups, but some of the "off-brands" might have something, or at least offer a constant-on light source that uses a shoe mounted battery/control pack that is connected to a lens mounted light source.
I would find it interesting to hear what Sony-specific photographers do, if any care to chime in here. Lens choices and AF are certainly pretty specific to brand. Personally I've been trying to get moving subjects with a manual lens (CV110) and sometimes it comes together, often not. Perhaps that is just the way it goes with macro.
I'm willing to put a crazy-guy-with-the-camera-rig kit together if that is what it really takes, though I would think for the amazing pics I sometimes see here that would scare off the subjects. And motivate people passing by and the neighbors to call the authorities to investigate. (just kidding, mostly)
Yup. But I see so many good macro shots here, and I'm curious about the 90mm macro lens. I'm most concerned about the focusing problem. I agree it is frustrating, but man a few shooters here sure get some beautiful shots.
I've done a lot of hand held macro work, and you can prefocus and shoot, manual focus and wobble back and forth until your subject is in focus and shoot, etc.
However, on Sony...my favorite macro setup is with the FE 90 Macro and my a6400. The Real Time AF Tracking feature (also present in the A9 and the A7R IV) makes macro shooting almost unfair. I can focus on the eye of an insect, keep continuous AF on, and even recompose the shot, and the focus will stay locked to the eye of the insect.
With my A7 III and the FE 90, I get maybe 30-50% of my shots in good focus when shooting hand held macro, just because it's so hard to maintain a steady position. With my a6400, it's like 90%.
I use my CV 110 a lot handheld. To me it seems even sharper than the CV 65.
Usually I compose the shot and put the focus point on where I want the focus to be. Then I magnify the live view, take a deep breath and move ever so slightly back and forth until it's in focus. Often I take several shots to make sure to get a perfect one.
Lots of good advice given already. All different kinds of methods, but here are some I have found work for me.
Study your subjects behavior. Notice when they slow down or stop on a flower , branch , etc. Look for them eating as they will sometimes be more into that and allow you to approach .
Approach very slowly . Try to be at their level and not towering over them where you might cast a shadow on them. I try to keep my camera in front of my face as I approach.
If the subject is low to the ground, sit or kneel and use your knees, body to help you stabilize the camera and lens.
If you are standing , try to lean against a tree or a bush.
For manual focus, rock slowly as you bring the subject into focus. It takes practice, but it does work.
I love the Sony 90mm macro. If I use flash , it is normally on the hot shoe and I diffuse it with a MagMod MagsSphere . I will also dial in a minus Flash Compensation to avoid any harsh light in the eyes.
Don't be afraid of using the higher ISO if needed. I find most of the time I use Auto ISO. I use spot metering . If my subject is exposed properly I can usually deal with any noise in the background. Unfortunately , lots of the subjects are nomally in the shade , combine that with getting very close and high ISO is going to happen for me.
As already stated, practice is the best teaching tool to help you learn what works for you.
Birdie
Flash used
Flash used
No Flash - Extension Tube He was very cooperative so I could reduce my shutter speed
I am not the OP but really appreciate all the advice thus far. One other question I have, though. Do you expect to crop quite a bit most of the time? I can never get up as close as many of the photos here appear to be. I'd say a lot of the time I might only use 25% or less of the original image, just to bring the subject up in size, even when using a CV110 (also have CV65 for 1:2). Maybe that much cropping is normal in macro, I just do not know. If so, I may need to go to an A7Rx sensor as I only have 24M now.
bdbits wrote:
I am not the OP but really appreciate all the advice thus far. One other question I have, though. Do you expect to crop quite a bit most of the time? I can never get up as close as many of the photos here appear to be. I'd say a lot of the time I might only use 25% or less of the original image, just to bring the subject up in size, even when using a CV110 (also have CV65 for 1:2). Maybe that much cropping is normal in macro, I just do not know. If so, I may need to go to an A7Rx sensor as I only have 24M now....Show more →
I am no macro expert, so take this for what it is worth , my .02cents .
I personally crop . The exception being if I can get close enough to fill the frame. One example of that is the dragon fly I posted earlier and the spider shot.
My other shots are cropped.
Handheld def Sony 90 with pdaf body. If for some reason you have focus issue, just mount strong continuous light for exposure balance and focus acquisition assist.
Patient game with MF macros with strobes are nice but if you want to do casual macro or handheld with least headache I think Sony 90 best option.
I have the Tamron 90 VC macro and was using it with the Sigma MC-11 adapter. I bought recently the Sony 90 Macro and a world of difference in behavior on focusing IMO. So yes that you will appreciate the Sony much more over the Tamron on a Sony body
Macro focusing is kind of like trigger control when target shooting, it is more a reflex action as you continue to focus and shoot it gets better and better at getting handheld in focus images. Many time the branch or stem that the insect is on or the say the flower itself is in constant motion so using a tripod does not help fix that part of the movement of the subject, it only stabilizes the camera body.
I remember a tip I saw once where if you can connect the subject (lets say insect) with your hand and lay your camera/lens also on your hand/arm they will all move together so in focus is easy
It all gets better with practice on the handholding attemps but for sure if it is a stationary subject a tripod will give the best platform for stability.
Karl
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