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Archive 2019Morris's X-T3 Birds In Flight Setup - Third Update for Firmware V3
p.3 #1Morris's X-T3 Birds In Flight Setup - Third Update for Firmware V3
Morris,
As always, thanks for your continuing efforts to perfect Fuji BIF captures. I look forward to taking your latest settings for a test drive.
Richard
morris wrote:
I've just edited the post to cover Firmware V 3.0. I found I needed to turn of face detection to get the best results. There is more into including a new shortcut recommendation in the post.
Morris
Feb 22, 2020 at 04:20 PM
p.3 #2Morris's X-T3 Birds In Flight Setup - Third Update for Firmware V3
All the work you put into this is much appreciated, Morris. 
Feb 22, 2020 at 05:31 PM
p.3 #3Morris's X-T3 Birds In Flight Setup - Third Update for Firmware V3
Fred Amico wrote:
All the work you put into this is much appreciated, Morris.
It is my pleasure to share what I learned Fred. The effort has resulted in terrific flight images.
Morris
All the work you put into this is much appreciated, Morris.
It is my pleasure to share what I learned Fred. The effort has resulted in terrific flight images.
Morris
Feb 22, 2020 at 05:34 PM
p.3 #4Morris's X-T3 Birds In Flight Setup - Third Update for Firmware V3
Morris,
I am seriously thinking of getting Canon 100-400 II IS and use fringer pro. Any thoughts on that combo with XT1?
Thanks!
I am seriously thinking of getting Canon 100-400 II IS and use fringer pro. Any thoughts on that combo with XT1?
Thanks!
Feb 23, 2020 at 09:21 PM
p.3 #5Morris's X-T3 Birds In Flight Setup - Third Update for Firmware V3
f_a_98 wrote:
Morris,
I am seriously thinking of getting Canon 100-400 II IS and use fringer pro. Any thoughts on that combo with XT1?
Thanks!
I don't have experience with eather. I hear the Canon 100-400 II IS is superb and so is the Fuji 100-400. If you want to photograph static subjects with the X-T1 the setup should work fine. I'd be concerned with using the X-T1 for action as nobody raves about it's focus speed or tracking. The only reason I'd get the Canon over the Fuji is if purchasing used and you want to use the adapter with other canon lenses.
Morris
Morris,
I am seriously thinking of getting Canon 100-400 II IS and use fringer pro. Any thoughts on that combo with XT1?
Thanks!
I don't have experience with eather. I hear the Canon 100-400 II IS is superb and so is the Fuji 100-400. If you want to photograph static subjects with the X-T1 the setup should work fine. I'd be concerned with using the X-T1 for action as nobody raves about it's focus speed or tracking. The only reason I'd get the Canon over the Fuji is if purchasing used and you want to use the adapter with other canon lenses.
Morris
Feb 24, 2020 at 07:49 AM
p.3 #6Morris's X-T3 Birds In Flight Setup - Third Update for Firmware V3
As always, your input is appreciated! Thanks.
Feb 24, 2020 at 08:44 AM
p.3 #7Morris's X-T3 Birds In Flight Setup - Third Update for Firmware V3
Thanks for sharing these settings. Should these be changed at all for the X-H1? I suspect it doesn't have all the latest firmware updates that the X-T3 has. I've had trouble on occasion in acquiring focus with the X-H1.
Feb 24, 2020 at 02:01 PM
p.3 #8Morris's X-T3 Birds In Flight Setup - Third Update for Firmware V3
John Barrow wrote:
Thanks for sharing these settings. Should these be changed at all for the X-H1? I suspect it doesn't have all the latest firmware updates that the X-T3 has. I've had trouble on occasion in acquiring focus with the X-H1.
I don't know John. Probably the most important of the settings is to chose the center distant from the camera of all the focus points. The other parameters are timing preferences related to tracking and how long to stay on a subject should you move off or it or it's obstructed. I suggest you give them a try after recording the old settings and/or backing them up.
Please let us know how it goes,
Morris
Thanks for sharing these settings. Should these be changed at all for the X-H1? I suspect it doesn't have all the latest firmware updates that the X-T3 has. I've had trouble on occasion in acquiring focus with the X-H1.
I don't know John. Probably the most important of the settings is to chose the center distant from the camera of all the focus points. The other parameters are timing preferences related to tracking and how long to stay on a subject should you move off or it or it's obstructed. I suggest you give them a try after recording the old settings and/or backing them up.
Please let us know how it goes,
Morris
Feb 24, 2020 at 09:10 PM
p.3 #9Morris's X-T3 Birds In Flight Setup - Third Update for Firmware V3
Thank you Morris. I'll use your values as a starting point.
Feb 25, 2020 at 01:28 PM
p.3 #10Morris's X-T3 Birds In Flight Setup - Third Update for Firmware V3
What is "pushed to extremes" on the skateboard shot. Looks like a normal action image against a dark background. Is the Fuji gear somehow not able to handle this well?
Feb 26, 2020 at 07:47 AM
p.3 #11Morris's X-T3 Birds In Flight Setup - Third Update for Firmware V3
Daniel Smith wrote:
What is "pushed to extremes" on the skateboard shot. Looks like a normal action image against a dark background. Is the Fuji gear somehow not able to handle this well?
Bibek will need to answer why he feels he was pushing to extremes. The X-T3 excels when there is high contrast. Possibly he is talking about using ISO 6400.
Morris
What is "pushed to extremes" on the skateboard shot. Looks like a normal action image against a dark background. Is the Fuji gear somehow not able to handle this well?
Bibek will need to answer why he feels he was pushing to extremes. The X-T3 excels when there is high contrast. Possibly he is talking about using ISO 6400.
Morris
Mar 03, 2020 at 12:02 PM
p.3 #12Morris's X-T3 Birds In Flight Setup - Third Update for Firmware V3
Thank you Morris, for the great tip. I've been experimenting with so many different setups, and this one works the best by far! I have a new xt4, and love it even more thanks to your setup wisdom. Much obliged for sharing.
Jun 12, 2020 at 07:23 PM
p.3 #13Morris's X-T3 Birds In Flight Setup - Third Update for Firmware V3
BlueHeron wrote:
Thank you Morris, for the great tip. I've been experimenting with so many different setups, and this one works the best by far! I have a new xt4, and love it even more thanks to your setup wisdom. Much obliged for sharing.
Glad to know it works well on the X-T4. I guess I'll find out how well when they come out with the focus improvements of the T4 in a firmware upgrade for the X-T3.
Morris
Thank you Morris, for the great tip. I've been experimenting with so many different setups, and this one works the best by far! I have a new xt4, and love it even more thanks to your setup wisdom. Much obliged for sharing.
Glad to know it works well on the X-T4. I guess I'll find out how well when they come out with the focus improvements of the T4 in a firmware upgrade for the X-T3.
Morris
Jun 16, 2020 at 07:08 PM
p.3 #14Morris's X-T3 Birds In Flight Setup - Third Update for Firmware V3
Thank you Morris. I too, will be applying your settings to an X-T4 and Fuji 100-400.
Jun 18, 2020 at 12:44 PM
p.3 #15Morris's X-T3 Birds In Flight Setup - Third Update for Firmware V3
Hi Morris,
Have anyone look at this website for the X-T4 BIF setting
https://mirrorlesscomparison.com/stories/fuji-xt4-birds-in-flight-test/
Here is the setting from the website and why the tracking sensitivity setting was oppose to the one in here?
Tracking Sensitivity: it defines how long the camera waits before changing focus. With 0, it changes as quickly as possible whereas with 4, it waits longer. When tracking birds, you want it to be as quick as possible so choose 0.
Speed Tracking Sensitivity: this determines how the camera responds to changes in speed and movement inside your composition. At 0, you’re saying to the camera that your subject is steady with a constant speed. At 2, you’re saying that your subject changes speed constantly. With the kites, I choose 2.
Zone Area Switching: here you choose which points to give priority to in your focus area (works with Zone Area only). With Front, the camera will prioritise the subject that is the closest to the camera (foreground). With Auto, it will first prioritise the center of the frame, then switch to other focus points if necessary to keep the subject in focus. With Center, the central area is given priority at all times. I select Auto, because I always start tracking the bird at the centre, but the difficulty is then to keep it at the centre and Auto is designed to help you with this.
Have anyone look at this website for the X-T4 BIF setting
https://mirrorlesscomparison.com/stories/fuji-xt4-birds-in-flight-test/
Here is the setting from the website and why the tracking sensitivity setting was oppose to the one in here?
Tracking Sensitivity: it defines how long the camera waits before changing focus. With 0, it changes as quickly as possible whereas with 4, it waits longer. When tracking birds, you want it to be as quick as possible so choose 0.
Speed Tracking Sensitivity: this determines how the camera responds to changes in speed and movement inside your composition. At 0, you’re saying to the camera that your subject is steady with a constant speed. At 2, you’re saying that your subject changes speed constantly. With the kites, I choose 2.
Zone Area Switching: here you choose which points to give priority to in your focus area (works with Zone Area only). With Front, the camera will prioritise the subject that is the closest to the camera (foreground). With Auto, it will first prioritise the center of the frame, then switch to other focus points if necessary to keep the subject in focus. With Center, the central area is given priority at all times. I select Auto, because I always start tracking the bird at the centre, but the difficulty is then to keep it at the centre and Auto is designed to help you with this.
Nov 05, 2020 at 02:38 PM
p.3 #16Morris's X-T3 Birds In Flight Setup - Third Update for Firmware V3
poona888 wrote:
Hi Morris,
Have anyone look at this website for the X-T4 BIF setting
https://mirrorlesscomparison.com/stories/fuji-xt4-birds-in-flight-test/
Here is the setting from the website and why the tracking sensitivity setting was oppose to the one in here?
Tracking Sensitivity: it defines how long the camera waits before changing focus. With 0, it changes as quickly as possible whereas with 4, it waits longer. When tracking birds, you want it to be as quick as possible so choose 0.
Speed Tracking Sensitivity: this determines how the camera responds to changes in speed and movement inside your composition. At 0, you’re saying to the camera that your subject...Show more →
Hi Poona,
I'm Well aware of that video and it is clear to me why he gets the result that he dose and I'll explain..
- Tracking Sensitivity: it defines how long the camera waits before changing focus. With 0, it changes as quickly as possible whereas with 4, it waits longer. When tracking birds, you want it to be as quick as possible so choose 0.
This is the incorrect setting for this. Tracking Sensitivity is about obstruction of your subject and how long the camera waits when it can't see the subject till it refocuses. It is best to have the camera continue predicting where the subject will be so that it is in focus when then the subject is visible again.
- Speed Tracking Sensitivity: this determines how the camera responds to changes in speed and movement inside your composition. At 0, you’re saying to the camera that your subject is steady with a constant speed. At 2, you’re saying that your subject changes speed constantly. With the kites, I choose 2.
Now this is the setting he was thinking about when he mode his choice for Tracking Sensitivity. Speed Sensitivity is about acceleration. If you read the manual you will see that there are side effects of Tracking Sensitivity when shooting into a bright sky or when there is low contest. His choice is fine for a blue sky day when not shooting into the sky or a bright cloud. I've chosen the middle as it works better all the time.
- Zone Area Switching: here you choose which points to give priority to in your focus area (works with Zone Area only). With Front, the camera will prioritise the subject that is the closest to the camera (foreground). With Auto, it will first prioritise the center of the frame, then switch to other focus points if necessary to keep the subject in focus. With Center, the central area is given priority at all times. I select Auto, because I always start tracking the bird at the centre, but the difficulty is then to keep it at the centre and Auto is designed to help you with this.
Front aka closest focus will work fine in an empty sky. If your subject is close to the ground and the ground is closer that's where it focuses. Empty sky is boring. I like to have some terrain in my frame as it adds interest.
Auto dose not work. I wish it did.
Center is reliable and the subject will be tracked inside of the focus zone. I move the focus stick to move the zone for composition when the subject is close.
He spent two days with the camera. That's not enough time and a clastic problem with many of the reviews we see on the internet.
Try both setups and see which gives you the best results.
Morris
Hi Morris,
Have anyone look at this website for the X-T4 BIF setting
https://mirrorlesscomparison.com/stories/fuji-xt4-birds-in-flight-test/
Here is the setting from the website and why the tracking sensitivity setting was oppose to the one in here?
Tracking Sensitivity: it defines how long the camera waits before changing focus. With 0, it changes as quickly as possible whereas with 4, it waits longer. When tracking birds, you want it to be as quick as possible so choose 0.
Speed Tracking Sensitivity: this determines how the camera responds to changes in speed and movement inside your composition. At 0, you’re saying to the camera that your subject...Show more →
Hi Poona,
I'm Well aware of that video and it is clear to me why he gets the result that he dose and I'll explain..
- Tracking Sensitivity: it defines how long the camera waits before changing focus. With 0, it changes as quickly as possible whereas with 4, it waits longer. When tracking birds, you want it to be as quick as possible so choose 0.
This is the incorrect setting for this. Tracking Sensitivity is about obstruction of your subject and how long the camera waits when it can't see the subject till it refocuses. It is best to have the camera continue predicting where the subject will be so that it is in focus when then the subject is visible again.
- Speed Tracking Sensitivity: this determines how the camera responds to changes in speed and movement inside your composition. At 0, you’re saying to the camera that your subject is steady with a constant speed. At 2, you’re saying that your subject changes speed constantly. With the kites, I choose 2.
Now this is the setting he was thinking about when he mode his choice for Tracking Sensitivity. Speed Sensitivity is about acceleration. If you read the manual you will see that there are side effects of Tracking Sensitivity when shooting into a bright sky or when there is low contest. His choice is fine for a blue sky day when not shooting into the sky or a bright cloud. I've chosen the middle as it works better all the time.
- Zone Area Switching: here you choose which points to give priority to in your focus area (works with Zone Area only). With Front, the camera will prioritise the subject that is the closest to the camera (foreground). With Auto, it will first prioritise the center of the frame, then switch to other focus points if necessary to keep the subject in focus. With Center, the central area is given priority at all times. I select Auto, because I always start tracking the bird at the centre, but the difficulty is then to keep it at the centre and Auto is designed to help you with this.
Front aka closest focus will work fine in an empty sky. If your subject is close to the ground and the ground is closer that's where it focuses. Empty sky is boring. I like to have some terrain in my frame as it adds interest.
Auto dose not work. I wish it did.
Center is reliable and the subject will be tracked inside of the focus zone. I move the focus stick to move the zone for composition when the subject is close.
He spent two days with the camera. That's not enough time and a clastic problem with many of the reviews we see on the internet.
Try both setups and see which gives you the best results.
Morris
Nov 05, 2020 at 04:54 PM
p.3 #17Morris's X-T3 Birds In Flight Setup - Third Update for Firmware V3
morris wrote:
poona888 wrote
Hi Morris,Have anyone look at this website for the X-T4 BIF setting
https://mirrorlesscomparison.com/stories/fuji-xt4-birds-in-flight-test/
Here is the setting from the website and why the tracking sensitivity setting was oppose to the one in here?
Tracking Sensitivity: it defines how long the camera waits before changing focus. With 0, it changes as quickly as possible whereas with 4, it waits longer. When tracking birds, you want it to be as quick as possible so choose 0.
Speed Tracking Sensitivity: this determines how the camera responds to changes in speed and movement inside your composition. At 0, you’re saying to the camera that your subject is steady with a constant speed. At 2, you’re saying that your subject changes speed constantly. With the kites, I choose 2.
Zone Area Switching: here you choose which points to give priority to in your focus area (works with Zone Area only). With Front, the camera will prioritise the subject that is the closest to the camera (foreground). With Auto, it will first prioritise the center of the frame, then switch to other focus points if necessary to keep the subject in focus. With Center, the central area is given priority at all times. I select Auto, because I always start tracking the bird at the centre, but the difficulty is then to keep it at the centre and Auto is designed to help you with this.
I'm Well aware of that video and it is clear to me why he gets the result that he dose and I'll explain..
- Tracking Sensitivity: it defines how long the camera waits before changing focus. With 0, it changes as quickly as possible whereas with 4, it waits longer. When tracking birds, you want it to be as quick as possible so choose 0.
This is the incorrect setting for this. Tracking Sensitivity is about obstruction of your subject and how long the camera waits when it can't see the subject till it refocuses. It is best to have the...Show more →
I spent quite some time with 100-400/X-T3 or X-T4, and my experience matches pretty much what you listed here.
Nov 05, 2020 at 06:07 PM
p.3 #18Morris's X-T3 Birds In Flight Setup - Third Update for Firmware V3
cvrle59 wrote:
Have anyone look at this website for the X-T4 BIF setting
https://mirrorlesscomparison.com/stories/fuji-xt4-birds-in-flight-test/
Here is the setting from the website and why the tracking sensitivity setting was oppose to the one in here?
Tracking Sensitivity: it defines how long the camera waits before changing focus. With 0, it changes as quickly as possible whereas with 4, it waits longer. When tracking birds, you want it to be as quick as possible so choose 0.
Speed Tracking Sensitivity: this determines how the camera responds to changes in speed and movement inside your composition. At 0, you’re saying to the camera that your subject is steady with a constant speed. At 2, you’re saying that your subject changes speed constantly. With the kites, I choose 2.
Zone Area Switching: here you choose which points to give priority to in your focus area (works with Zone Area only). With Front, the camera will prioritise the subject that is the closest to the camera (foreground). With Auto, it will first prioritise the center of the frame, then switch to other focus points if necessary to keep the subject in focus. With Center, the central area is given priority at all times. I select Auto, because I always start tracking the bird at the centre, but the difficulty is then to keep it at the centre and Auto is designed to help you with this.Hi Poona,
I'm Well aware of that video and it is clear to me why he gets the result that he dose and I'll explain..
- Tracking Sensitivity: it defines how long the camera waits before changing focus. With 0, it changes as quickly as possible whereas with 4, it waits longer. When tracking birds, you want it to be as quick as possible so choose 0.
This is the incorrect setting for this. Tracking Sensitivity is about obstruction of your subject and how long the camera waits when it can't see the subject till it refocuses. It is best to have the camera continue predicting where the subject will be so that it is in focus when then the subject is visible again.
- Speed Tracking Sensitivity: this determines how the camera responds to changes in speed and movement inside your composition. At 0, you’re saying to the camera that your subject is steady with a constant speed. At 2, you’re saying that your subject changes speed constantly. With the kites, I choose 2.
Now this is the setting he was thinking about when he mode his choice for Tracking Sensitivity. Speed Sensitivity is about acceleration. If you read the manual you will see that there are side effects of Tracking Sensitivity when shooting into a bright sky or when there is low contest. His choice is fine for a blue sky day when not shooting into the sky or a bright cloud. I've chosen the middle as it works better all the time.
- Zone Area Switching: here you choose which points to give priority to in your focus area (works with Zone Area only). With Front, the camera will prioritise the subject that is the closest to the camera (foreground). With Auto, it will first prioritise the center of the frame, then switch to other focus points if necessary to keep the subject in focus. With Center, the central area is given priority at all times. I select Auto, because I always start tracking the bird at the centre, but the difficulty is then to keep it at the centre and Auto is designed to help you with this.
Front aka closest focus will work fine in an empty sky. If your subject is close to the ground and the ground is closer that's where it focuses. Empty sky is boring. I like to have some terrain in my frame as it adds interest.
Auto dose not work. I wish it did.
Center is reliable and the subject will be tracked inside of the focus zone. I move the focus stick to move the zone for composition when the subject is close.
He spent two days with the camera. That's not enough time and a clastic problem with many of the reviews we see on the internet.
Try both setups and see which gives you the best results.
MorrisI spent quite some time with 100-400/X-T3 or X-T4, and my experience matches pretty much what you listed here.
Hi cvrle,
"You" is a bit vague here. Am I the "you"?
Morris
morris wrote
poona888 wrote
Hi Morris,Have anyone look at this website for the X-T4 BIF setting
https://mirrorlesscomparison.com/stories/fuji-xt4-birds-in-flight-test/
Here is the setting from the website and why the tracking sensitivity setting was oppose to the one in here?
Tracking Sensitivity: it defines how long the camera waits before changing focus. With 0, it changes as quickly as possible whereas with 4, it waits longer. When tracking birds, you want it to be as quick as possible so choose 0.
Speed Tracking Sensitivity: this determines how the camera responds to changes in speed and movement inside your composition. At 0, you’re saying to the camera that your subject is steady with a constant speed. At 2, you’re saying that your subject changes speed constantly. With the kites, I choose 2.
Zone Area Switching: here you choose which points to give priority to in your focus area (works with Zone Area only). With Front, the camera will prioritise the subject that is the closest to the camera (foreground). With Auto, it will first prioritise the center of the frame, then switch to other focus points if necessary to keep the subject in focus. With Center, the central area is given priority at all times. I select Auto, because I always start tracking the bird at the centre, but the difficulty is then to keep it at the centre and Auto is designed to help you with this.
I'm Well aware of that video and it is clear to me why he gets the result that he dose and I'll explain..
- Tracking Sensitivity: it defines how long the camera waits before changing focus. With 0, it changes as quickly as possible whereas with 4, it waits longer. When tracking birds, you want it to be as quick as possible so choose 0.
This is the incorrect setting for this. Tracking Sensitivity is about obstruction of your subject and how long the camera waits when it can't see the subject till it refocuses. It is best to have the camera continue predicting where the subject will be so that it is in focus when then the subject is visible again.
- Speed Tracking Sensitivity: this determines how the camera responds to changes in speed and movement inside your composition. At 0, you’re saying to the camera that your subject is steady with a constant speed. At 2, you’re saying that your subject changes speed constantly. With the kites, I choose 2.
Now this is the setting he was thinking about when he mode his choice for Tracking Sensitivity. Speed Sensitivity is about acceleration. If you read the manual you will see that there are side effects of Tracking Sensitivity when shooting into a bright sky or when there is low contest. His choice is fine for a blue sky day when not shooting into the sky or a bright cloud. I've chosen the middle as it works better all the time.
- Zone Area Switching: here you choose which points to give priority to in your focus area (works with Zone Area only). With Front, the camera will prioritise the subject that is the closest to the camera (foreground). With Auto, it will first prioritise the center of the frame, then switch to other focus points if necessary to keep the subject in focus. With Center, the central area is given priority at all times. I select Auto, because I always start tracking the bird at the centre, but the difficulty is then to keep it at the centre and Auto is designed to help you with this.
Front aka closest focus will work fine in an empty sky. If your subject is close to the ground and the ground is closer that's where it focuses. Empty sky is boring. I like to have some terrain in my frame as it adds interest.
Auto dose not work. I wish it did.
Center is reliable and the subject will be tracked inside of the focus zone. I move the focus stick to move the zone for composition when the subject is close.
He spent two days with the camera. That's not enough time and a clastic problem with many of the reviews we see on the internet.
Try both setups and see which gives you the best results.
Morris
Hi cvrle,
"You" is a bit vague here. Am I the "you"?
Morris
Nov 05, 2020 at 07:05 PM
p.3 #19Morris's X-T3 Birds In Flight Setup - Third Update for Firmware V3
morris wrote:
cvrle59 wrote
morris wrote
poona888 wrote
Hi Morris,Have anyone look at this website for the X-T4 BIF setting
https://mirrorlesscomparison.com/stories/fuji-xt4-birds-in-flight-test/
Here is the setting from the website and why the tracking sensitivity setting was oppose to the one in here?
Tracking Sensitivity: it defines how long the camera waits before changing focus. With 0, it changes as quickly as possible whereas with 4, it waits longer. When tracking birds, you want it to be as quick as possible so choose 0.
Speed Tracking Sensitivity: this determines how the camera responds to changes in speed and movement inside your composition. At 0, you’re saying to the camera that your subject is steady with a constant speed. At 2, you’re saying that your subject changes speed constantly. With the kites, I choose 2.
Zone Area Switching: here you choose which points to give priority to in your focus area (works with Zone Area only). With Front, the camera will prioritise the subject that is the closest to the camera (foreground). With Auto, it will first prioritise the center of the frame, then switch to other focus points if necessary to keep the subject in focus. With Center, the central area is given priority at all times. I select Auto, because I always start tracking the bird at the centre, but the difficulty is then to keep it at the centre and Auto is designed to help you with this.
I'm Well aware of that video and it is clear to me why he gets the result that he dose and I'll explain..
- Tracking Sensitivity: it defines how long the camera waits before changing focus. With 0, it changes as quickly as possible whereas with 4, it waits longer. When tracking birds, you want it to be as quick as possible so choose 0.
This is the incorrect setting for this. Tracking Sensitivity is about obstruction of your subject and how long the camera waits when it can't see the subject till it refocuses. It is best to have the camera continue predicting where the subject will be so that it is in focus when then the subject is visible again.
- Speed Tracking Sensitivity: this determines how the camera responds to changes in speed and movement inside your composition. At 0, you’re saying to the camera that your subject is steady with a constant speed. At 2, you’re saying that your subject changes speed constantly. With the kites, I choose 2.
Now this is the setting he was thinking about when he mode his choice for Tracking Sensitivity. Speed Sensitivity is about acceleration. If you read the manual you will see that there are side effects of Tracking Sensitivity when shooting into a bright sky or when there is low contest. His choice is fine for a blue sky day when not shooting into the sky or a bright cloud. I've chosen the middle as it works better all the time.
- Zone Area Switching: here you choose which points to give priority to in your focus area (works with Zone Area only). With Front, the camera will prioritise the subject that is the closest to the camera (foreground). With Auto, it will first prioritise the center of the frame, then switch to other focus points if necessary to keep the subject in focus. With Center, the central area is given priority at all times. I select Auto, because I always start tracking the bird at the centre, but the difficulty is then to keep it at the centre and Auto is designed to help you with this.
Front aka closest focus will work fine in an empty sky. If your subject is close to the ground and the ground is closer that's where it focuses. Empty sky is boring. I like to have some terrain in my frame as it adds interest.
Auto dose not work. I wish it did.
Center is reliable and the subject will be tracked inside of the focus zone. I move the focus stick to move the zone for composition when the subject is close.
He spent two days with the camera. That's not enough time and a clastic problem with many of the reviews we see on the internet.
Try both setups and see which gives you the best results.
Morris
"You" is a bit vague here. Am I the "you"?
Morris
I'm so sorry Morris for confusion. What I wanted to say is, your explanation is 100% what I found so far.
I did follow your initial instruction write up last year, as a start, but I experimented on my own, as well.
Probably not as much as you did, my BIF experience is way below yours, but at the end, that's pretty much what I found too.
I hope this clears it!
Regards,
George
Nov 05, 2020 at 07:26 PM
p.3 #20Morris's X-T3 Birds In Flight Setup - Third Update for Firmware V3
Hi Morries,
Thanks for all the explanation.
Thanks for all the explanation.
Nov 06, 2020 at 10:35 AM