p.51 #1 · Portrait and People Image Thread using Sony
I have definitely seen something similar where my Godox strobes will all of a sudden fire a shot at full power even though I’m in manual and have not changed any settings, though off the top of my head I don’t think I’ve seen it happen twice in a row. I think the Sony hotshoe may just be kind of bogus and I do find myself taking the trigger off and re-seating it 2-3 times over the course of a shoot. Would be interesting to see if other people have similar issues or if my shoe is funky. X1T and XPro both exhibit this behavior on my a7iii.
abadger wrote:
There is always next time...I was happy with the result even if it wasn't what I was originally going for. Thanks for the feedback. Next time I would like to try out the 'multi' setting on the strobe for dance movements. I wasn't confident enough with that to use it this time.
Side question, has anyone ever experienced an issue where the photo gets suddenly over exposed during a session with no change in settings? I'll be taking a bunch of shots and then they all of a sudden start to get blown out to an extreme. The only way to fix it is to adjust the F stop setting on camera. Change it from 7.1 back to 6.3 and then back to 7.1 again and it is fine.
My theory is that my trigger is a bit loose when I adjust to portrait orientation and gets disconnected/reconnected - doesn't seem to be lens dependent. Any ideas or similar experience? Or is there a better place to post about the issue?...Show more →
p.51 #2 · Portrait and People Image Thread using Sony
I feel your pain. I saw that shot on Instagram as well, and no surprise, it looks much different on my calibrated monitor here. I feel like whenever I am trying to finesse things around the extremes of the dynamic range of the image, the shot always looks radically different on my phone and I have to go back and adjust since most people will likely view it on their phone. It can be a huge pain in the butt especially if you are already deep into the edit in a rasterized environment like PS, where raising shadows will degrade the image pretty rapidly.
GabrielPhoto wrote:
Indeed is frustrating specially in shots like this one where you want a very specific look for the drama but your calibrated monitors are not an indication of most displays people are using in many cases so guess for this shots I will edit lighter than I want then check in my phone and tablet (both oled) and tweak. A good excuse to add an oled monitor to my desktop editing station 😁
Thanks a lot for the feedback and kind words.
p.51 #3 · Portrait and People Image Thread using Sony
abadger wrote:
My first session with a dancer - a classically trained ballerina. I'm not an expert on the science of this, but somehow was able to freeze the action at 1/60 shutter speed (my original goal at this point in the session was to get some motion blur...). I think it is the speed of the strobe that does it. I'm sure someone else knows more than I do about it.
At the very end of a shoot about a year ago, I tried to do a motion blur flash shot with rear curtain sync and intentional camera movement. I didn’t really have enough ambient, it was very unpredictable, interesting at times, and never what I had in mind haha. I shot this one with a 0.8 sec shutter at f7.1. Apologies if I have shared this before. I don’t recall whether I have or not.
p.51 #4 · Portrait and People Image Thread using Sony
fuzzykeys wrote:
At the very end of a shoot about a year ago, I tried to do a motion blur flash shot with rear curtain sync and intentional camera movement. I didn’t really have enough ambient, it was very unpredictable, interesting at times, and never what I had in mind haha. I shot this one with a 0.8 sec shutter at f7.1. Apologies if I have shared this before. I don’t recall whether I have or not.
Hey I like that a lot (haven't seen it yet)! I've dabbled in rear curtain sync shots, most recently for a self portrait project and yeah it's really unpredictable. More like test and check and repeat. But fun when everything works together! This is a nice artistic outcome.
p.51 #12 · Portrait and People Image Thread using Sony
fuzzykeys wrote:
You guys and your beastly 105’s! I want one but I also really like the 85 FL so maybe makes more sense to go for a 135 or tele zoom as a compliment?
If you prefer 85mm then yeah a 135mm could be a nice combo. I had that exactly before the 105mm showed up and shook my world
p.51 #13 · Portrait and People Image Thread using Sony
fuzzykeys wrote:
You guys and your beastly 105’s! I want one but I also really like the 85 FL so maybe makes more sense to go for a 135 or tele zoom as a compliment?
Matt, I am a sucker for shallow DOFs and as such, I would prefer using large aperture prime lenses. The next logical step focal length-wise from 85mm is 135mm.
p.51 #15 · Portrait and People Image Thread using Sony
bobby350z wrote:
This is awesome image. I wish I knew how to post process.
Thanks a lot, man. Between lighting and PP I lost count of how my hours of my life I have spent (and continuously do daily) learning and practicing...so I appreciate your comment!
p.51 #16 · Portrait and People Image Thread using Sony
fuzzykeys wrote:
You guys and your beastly 105’s! I want one but I also really like the 85 FL so maybe makes more sense to go for a 135 or tele zoom as a compliment?
In Canon world I for one didn't like 135L that much. I know I know it was a great lens but it was no where like 200mm f2. Later on Canon I used 85L and then same with Fuji, first with 56mm f1.2 and now with 110mm f2. Only recently I am playing with 105mm and I like it. Hoping Fuji can give me a but longer and faster glass some day. For now they only plan for 80mm f1.7 which will be 62mm f1.3.
p.51 #19 · Portrait and People Image Thread using Sony
GabrielPhoto wrote:
Changing a bit from my usual lady models to model Ethan in this moody portrait with the Sigma 35mm 1.2
This one is always hard to post in social media because on calibrated editing monitors it looks as I intended with some shadow detail clearly visible but it seems many OLED screens just crush the blacks big time.
Hi GabrielPhoto. Just look at the histogram. It reveals a lot of lost blacks. If you got to this point deliberately, that's ok.
On my two hardware calibrated Eizo ColorEdge monitors I see the crushed blacks issue and also on my tv, cellular and tablet. all of them with oled panels, even watching your photo in complete darkness.
If you don't see that phenomena on your computer monitor, you should calibrate it, maybe it is not showing the correct gamma actually. You sholuld also check the ambient lighting in your editing room. If it is too dim it may lead you to underexposed editings. As you know the human vision adapts to darkness increasing its "dynamic range". Be sure to have CIE normalized D50 lighting in your editing room.
