Is the Nikon SB800 a decent flash for fill ins? Or would the SB700 be better? It’s for my Nikon D7500. Or is there something else that will work? It probably won’t get much use, so I’m thinking about something cheap. I’d like to keep my budget under $200. Thank you
I did a fair amount of reading for external flash for my D7100. SB 800 and SB 600 seem to be the best deal for me. (I'm still using a Nikon Ftn for film).
I don't know what used SB-700/800 are going for these days but another alternative would be the Godox/Flashpoint V860II. Full Nikon TTL, lithium battery, compatible as a master or slave with the R2 remote system, and they fit your budget.
I have a few of the Flashpoint version, they work great on camera and as remote room lights.
The SB700 has the improved UI of the SB900/910 (better rear button lay out, easier accessible menu's) but like those units is also (much) larger then the SB800 ( I have both the SB800 and SB910)
It also has a similar over heating protection safety as the SB910 (fortunately not like the SB900 which is notorious for shutting down completely when overheating threatens)
The SB800 as mentioned has a harder to operate UI (smaller selector buttons which need practice and endurance to learn to operate, and are a bit of a challenge when having to use speedily)
But it also has a higher GN which can matter in a real world working/shooting situation
That said, it lacks the overheating protection of the SB910/SB700, which means that when using it a lot with a high output (eg fast repeated flash at full power in Manual mode, or with a much stopped down lens at low ISO for longer distances) you may risk melting the flash head front lens
Another advantage of the SB800 over the SB700 is the option to attach an extra 5th AA battery, or even an external powerpack like the Nikon SD800 or eg a Godox PB960 (which BTW also is impossible with a SB600) a nice option eg when shooting an event or wedding, or using it with a big diffused, umbrella, or bounced
The original Nikon SD800 is way over priced for what it is/does though - just a plastic box with some cables holding 6 AA batteries - but you can easily find cheap knock of copies offered for sale on the internet
Had several of those before I upgraded to the Propac 960, which I like better
Has a much higher output (= faster recycle times, even though that could increase the risk of 'melting' the SB800) you can power two flash units with one power pack and it works with both SB800 and SB910 (the SD800 is incompatible with the SB910 due to a different power plug design)
I personally prefer the SB800 over the SB910, ( I have 6 SB800's and one SB910 I got 2nd hand just to see what all the buzz was about) due to the smaller size and lower weight allowing to pack several of them without losing too much space in the bag
Also not changing the settings on the SB800's all the time means the UI isn't much of an issue for me
For an occasional user, the SB-700 will be fine. It's easier to use than the SB-600 menus. I used a couple SB-600's for a while and they are great units, but the menu system is a bit clunky if you don't use it all the time. Going from TTL to manual is a switch on the side of the SB-700, not a menu item you have to scroll to. The difference in size between the various SB speedlights is also not a big issue for your situation. Any of them will do.
If you want to get any of the Nikon speedlights off the camera hot shoe (which I highly recommend), you will need to learn Nikon's CLS (Creative Lighting System) or get some wireless triggers.
If you want something new and under $200, the non-Nikon options provided appear to be viable.
Paul_K wrote:
That said, it lacks the overheating protection of the SB910/SB700, which means that when using it a lot with a high output (eg fast repeated flash at full power in Manual mode, or with a much stopped down lens at low ISO for longer distances) you may risk melting the flash head front lens
Has anyone ever even managed that without using an external battery pack ? Otherwise the refresh between flashes at full power takes quite some time (seconds, depending upon your choice of battery).
story_teller wrote:
If you want to get any of the Nikon speedlights off the camera hot shoe (which I highly recommend), you will need to learn Nikon's CLS (Creative Lighting System) or get some wireless triggers.
As a much easier option I would recomment the Nikon SC-29 (or even better the discontinued SC-17 from eBay).
No need to keep flash units in line of sight, like with CLS, or to lose features with wireless triggers (Nikon doesnt offer any and external ones make you lose HSS, often also TTL).
As a much easier option I would recomment the Nikon SC-29 (or even better the discontinued SC-17 from eBay).
No need to keep flash units in line of sight, like with CLS, or to lose features with wireless triggers (Nikon doesnt offer any and external ones make you lose HSS, often also TTL).
I have to respectfully disagree. First, CLS is not nearly as bad as everyone claims. Second, it doesn't have to be line of site all the time if you know how to bounce the IR signals to the remote flashes. Third, it's included in the camera and flash at no additional cost. It is problematic in very bright situations such as out in the sun. Indoors and lower light situations it provide a quick, convenient and full-featured solution.
It's true that wireless triggers come in many variations of capabilities. Some are basic triggers and some provide very useful features. I currently use a combination of PocketWizard Minitt1 and FlexTT5's with my Nikon speedlights. This combination not only provides TTL, but can seamlessly allow me use my speedlights up to 1/8000th. In addition, I have an AC3 zone controller that allows control of up to 3 groups of lights from the camera (on, off, ev).
Sync cords were more useful when the cameras and flashes had sync ports. Now you have to add a SB-17 adapter to connect the cable to the D7500 and a sync cable hot shoe adapter to the flash. Then take into consideration possible issues such as tripping over the cable causing physical injury or pulling the flash and stand or camera and tripod over, etc, There's also the issue of possible insufficient cable length and having to set additional speedlights to SU-4 slaves. Using CLS and/or an investment in wireless transceivers is very reasonable and a lot more flexible long term strategy.
If you planning to use flash on the camera, and not very often, than used SB-700 is a great option.
Smaller than SB-900/910, better interface, enough power for most tasks.
I like Godox and lithium batteries a lot, and I use 4 of them on the regular basis, but SB-700 is a great flash for irregular use.
Godox flashes are the market leaders at the moment for a small fraction of the price. Nikon's flashes and system are way behind for an absurd price tag.
Sauseschritt wrote:
Has anyone ever even managed that without using an external battery pack ? Otherwise the refresh between flashes at full power takes quite some time (seconds, depending upon your choice of battery).
Never tried 'melting' with or without an external batterypack
Didn't see the added value of destroying a valued piece of equipment just for the sake of 'being right' r
Rather chose to use an extra 'safety' such as (an) additional flash(es) used simultaneously to 'lower' the stress otherwise put on a single speedlight
But at occasions when shooting catwalk with several off camera SB800's on a lightstand with a extra PB960 battery remotely triggered with PW TT5's, have had them heated up quite seriously (too hot to touch) after shooting several hundreds of relatively fast sequenced (bursts of 2 to 3 fps) shots of models on the catwalk, at an average distance between 25 and 5 meters, despite shooting at high ISO and relatively open lenses
I have to respectfully disagree. First, CLS is not nearly as bad as everyone claims. Second, it doesn't have to be line of site all the time if you know how to bounce the IR signals to the remote flashes. Third, it's included in the camera and flash at no additional cost. It is problematic in very bright situations such as out in the sun. Indoors and lower light situations it provide a quick, convenient and full-featured solution.
I agree, in my experience too the only real weakness of CLS is using it outside
The infra red trigger gets overpowered by the daylight and under those circumstances loses much of its reliability and reach
But when used inside with enough close by walls to 'bounce' the IR trigger signal, CLS works quite fine, even if not for 'hidden aroud the corner' or 'behind a wall' remote slave units
Still use CLS nowadays, although with PW TT5's in combination with a AC3 or SU800
A couple of SB800's with three TT5's and a PB960 make a ice small portable package, enough power for my kind of shooting (I'm not the kind of shooter who tries to out power the sun with flash, never liked the burned out look of that kind of 'Martin Parr' type of shooting using flash)
As I have assembled the gear over a number of years, the total purchase sum may somewhat - though still by far not as much - approach the price eg a Profoto B2 250 set, but the gradual spending of that amount has left my wallet aching far less
And I have been able to take advantage of the CLS system for close to ten years now, already when eg the Profoto B1 was still only a sketch on a designers table
) eg