nandadevieast wrote:
Hi,
I tried highlight metering and +2 method today. I am getting blinkies all over? Is this normal and i can pull them back later?
The Zebra warnings are created from the jpg in the camera, not the RAW. At Zebra level 100+, the jpg has about 2 stops less headroom in dynamic range than the RAW. Depending on the scene's highlights, that could give you "blinkies all over." If you still have lots of deep shadows using +2EV, the optimum for a particular scene may even be a little higher than +2, (i.e. accept some excessive but inconsequential specular highlights in exchange for better shadows across a larger area), but if you don't really need the extra dynamic range into the shadows a little less than +2EV can be safer (I think Guy has settled on +1.7EV).
snapsy wrote:
Here's a more complete Electronic Shutter noise comparison, this time with a full EV comparison. I progressively underexposed in 1EV increments - in post each image was pushed by the equivalent number of stops it was underexposed. For example if I underexposed by 4EV then I pushed the image by 4EV. This means all the resulting images have the same effective brightness (post-push).
Really useful, thanks. I'm on a mobile device right now, but we have amazing technology available to us nowadays that we can push images this hard and still have something usable. Yay for ~invariance! Thanks for doing this. Lightroom defaults?
Regarding using the A7rIII's new "Highlight" metering mode for ETTR, I performed a test today. In terms of actual metering, the mode appears to yields an exposure that puts the brightest portion of the scene in the center of the histogram. This is the same as if you had spot metered the entered scene and then selected the highest reading and centered on that. This results in an exposure that puts your highlights well below 2EV from raw highlight clipping, at least when the sky is the metering subject (different subjects may have different than average reflectivity; also keep in mind that other color channels may clip earlier than the blue channel).
So for landscapes where a clear blue sky is your brightest content you'll want to ETTR well above +2EV from the Highlight meter reading. I found actual raw clipping doesn't occur until +4EV above Highlight (as measured by RawDigger). However, ACR/LR starts to show hue shifts at around 3.3EV to 3.6EV.
pasblues wrote:
The thing that I was rather astounded by was the result with the A7RIII. I'm sorry I don't have fancy words for it - but, basically, the images are crispy and filled with fine detail. Shockingly so.
And I was shooting rather handicapped since I didn't really have the custom controls set up the way I wanted yet.
On the second photo, notice how the focus on his face wasn't quite nailed as the camera was searching for a face on the banjo instead of the focus point where I wanted it. This is what I mean by shooting through objects. I need to make that decision myself or get the camera to overcome searching for the face when I'm shooting through obstacles. Normally, I would choose a focus point and nail that point - but letting the camera choose to detect a face was not successful in this particular situation.
Also, notice that the ISO shifted from 4000 to 10000. I wish I could have had a static ISO of my own choosing - in fact, complete settings of my own choosing. This is a problem I will resolve by getting the camera set up properly for the way I want to shoot.
Very nice shots......here is my solution....I use back button focus...use the AF button for eye af and the AEL button for normal focus so I can switch focus points in a heart beat.
Since I have to downsize the images so much to post them here, they might not appear with the same crispness and resolution as they appear on my own computer screen.
jhinkey wrote:
Just tried on the EasyCover for the A9 that is stated as being compatible with the A7RIII, but it did not go well.
It's too loose along the bottom of the LCD and there is nothing to hold the lower left edge from flopping around.
All they had to do was put one thin strip of rubber from the top to the bottom along the left edge of the LCD and it would have been just fine. Disappointed and it's being returned (via Amazon).
I have this one too....I hold the bottom in place with a generic L bracket...works great....I have also placed red sugru on the AF and AEL button areas on the cover, which makes them much easier to find and press.
echelonphoto wrote:
I have this one too....I hold the bottom in place with a generic L bracket...works great....I have also placed red sugru on the AF and AEL button areas on the cover, which makes them much easier to find and press.
I wanted to sew an elastic thread from the bottom piece to the top along the left side of the LCD, but didn't want to mess with it. This would have made it much much better overall. I think they are close to getting it right, but need another iteration.
Fred Miranda wrote:
Just came back from a children's party. It was in a gym with equipment that reminds of a circus. Pretty cool!
The place was very dim (as you can see from the ISO setting) and also had artificial lighting (fluorescent). There were windows around the gym which made exposure a nightmare.
My settings were:
A7R III with FE 55/1.8 ZA,
Metering "Highlight", Exposure comp +2 EV (+1EV internally and +1 on the Dial),
Continuous mode,
Compressed RAW,
"Hi" frames per second (8fps),
Lock-on: Flexible spot: "M" with a recall button to toggle it to Lock-on "Wide".
Electronic shutter for all images.
Custom button (C4) for APS-C crop on the fly. (In a few images)
I had a great rate of keepers (about 90%) which was great considering the lighting and venue. Here are a few shots:...Show more →
nandadevieast wrote:
It doesn’t matter. You can do +2 on the dial also. (Internal only allows 1 stop)
It doesn't matter except that you have more headroom left available on the dial, and you might need that. @Snapsy@ found that there was +4EV available to overexpose in at least some circumstances (page 29, #4) -- you can't get there with just the dial, so you might as well bake-in +1EV internally for Highlight mode. Also, if you have the physical EV dial contributing only +1EV you're (read that as, "I'm") less likely to screw up another shot later when I change exposure modes.
I went out this morning to test this and did find it better to dial in +1 in highlight metering adjustment and +1 on the exp comp dial. After a shot I realized I needed an bracketed shot to get the shadow detail. I needed +3 which I would not have had room for if I’d I already used +2 on the compensation dial.
With the R3 I normally shoot in A mode and don't need the front dial like I used to when shooting the original A7 in manual to control shutter speed.
So now I have my front dial (on the front of the grip) set to "dial EV comp" ( menu #2 page 9 item 1) and that allows you to use up to +/- 5EV via front dial , but the EV comp dial MUST be set to 0 for it to work, and if you move the EV dial from 0, it immediately overrides the front dial setting.
I am also using highlight metering exclusively and have the internal baked in +1 EV also set. I assume this means I could go +/- 6EV now with the dial but I'm sure i'd never need that much!
Well, I've taken the plunge and put my 5DSR, long relegated to the closet as an emergency backup, on B&S. That means that my A7RII will become the backup when the III arrives next week.
I've read this whole thread twice to get a feel for what's coming. Since I use my cameras in View Camera Mode, I'll have no use for autofocus features, continuous shooting, etc.....everything is manual focus and single shot. However, I have a question: I see many of you discussing "Silent Shutter" (electronic shutter). I've never used it on the "II". Other than reducing wear on the physical shutter, what benefit is there to using electronic shutter in view of "rolling shutter" or other possible problems? Thanks.
Danny. I just got an A7RIII (for airshows and birds). I will give one of my two A7RIIs to my daughter and keep one for myself. I usually like to carry two bodies to minimize the necessity of changing lenses. Just curious, if AF, frame rate don't matter to you, what are the main draws for you with the A7RIII? dual card slot? ergonomics? longer battery life?
Douglas - I'd decided initially not to get it, since it doesn't have the 2 things that I especially want (higher resolution and more aspect ratios). I've been following the comments, though, and the improved EVF is the main thing that appeals to me, especially since everyone says it's a lot better for manual focus, and sometimes I do have issues with that on the A7RII when using wide lenses with a distant focal point.
The other thing that I especially want will sound odd, but keep in mind that I'm an atypical user. That would be the ability to rate 1-5 stars on each image, but I don't want that for the intended purpose. Instead, I'll use it to indicate the aspect ratio in which I've composed, since it's always difficult to figure them out again when I'm seeing a page of 3:2 thumbnails in ACR. I'm going to use:
There are other various niceties that I want, but for which I wouldn't have upgraded just to get them, and it sounds like there may not be a higher res model for awhile. Also, I really wanted to sell my 5DSR before the new model comes out, dropping the value of mine, and the $300 savings on the A7RIII that just started has prompted me into action.
DannyBurkPhoto wrote:
Other than reducing wear on the physical shutter, what benefit is there to using electronic shutter in view of "rolling shutter" or other possible problems?
For me it's simply because it is silent. I can not think of any other benefits.
DannyBurkPhoto wrote:
OK, thanks. Shutter noise makes no difference to me - landscapes and flowers typically don't mind it.
By "shutter slap," I was referring to the vibration in the camera (and therefore possible blurring of the image) caused by shutter actuation, not the noise.