GabrielPhoto wrote:
OK so even 10fps shooting as long as is not Compressed is still 14 bits? And Single shooting +compressed is still 14 bits too, correct?
I am trying to help someone else as well with this and dont want to provide incorrect info.
Thank you!
When uncompressed RAW is selected max speed is 8 fps, even if "Hi+" drive speed is selected. 10 fps is available only with compressed RAW. Single shutter + compressed is 14 bits (well actually 13 for shadows and less for highlights due to how Sony RAW compression works) but its 14 bits in sense that ADCs are run in 14 bit resolution mode.
Another usable note is that with silent/electronic shutter it may sometimes be a good idea to drop to 12 bit mode on purpose by selecting compressed RAW and continuous shooting. This makes sensor readout faster (1/30 secs instead of 1/15 secs that it takes in 14 bits mode) reducing the risk image distortion with moving subjects.
kurt765 wrote:
To my surprise, I just learned I'm getting an eval A7r3 tomorrow. Does anyone know if any L plates from the A7r2 will fit the A7r3 at all? I have the Kirk a7r2 plate. I am excited to try this new beast out!
Yes, their L plate that does not cover the battery door will fit. The one that does cover the door does not fit.
tn1krr wrote:
12 bit: everything shot with continuous shooting + compressed RAW, bulb and long exposure NR, continuous bracketing.
14 bit: everything else.
This should be pretty close.
That looks like how the R2 behaves. I was under the impression that the R3 would be 14-bit in continuous bracketing unless it's compressed raw. Can anyone confirm one way or the other?
Sony HSS hack with A7R3.
I discovered with A7RIII a new thing accidentally. As you know if you use Sony Brand Flash with Any Sony A7 or A9 or A6XXX camera, the HSS only works if flash is in the 90 degree position. The moment you move the flash one degree into any direction, HSS cancels and you are back to 1/250 shutter speed. This is only a problem with Sony brand flashes, 3d party flashes don't have such issues.
However, I discovered how to make the Sony brand oncamera flash work in HSS at ANY Angle - example with HVL43M
I have not tried if it works with any previous camera, but it works with Sony A7RIII
ianchen0 wrote:
That looks like how the R2 behaves. I was under the impression that the R3 would be 14-bit in continuous bracketing unless it's compressed raw. Can anyone confirm one way or the other?
You are correct, both single and continuous bracket are 14 bit when uncompressed RAW is used. Checked this with RAWDigger.
The A7RIII has pile of improvements over RII in this sense: with uncompressed RAW R3 has full 14 bit continuous drive (up to 8 fps) whereas R2 was 12 bit with continuous, this is also available with electronic/silent shutter which was single shot only in R2.
Just came from Mexican Vacation. Took A7R3, 24-105G, 28 F2, 85 1.8 FE and Canon 17-40L. All worked well. No problems. Also tons of photos on the beach with wind blowing sand (you can actually see sand in the air in the images, lots of it). No issues with camera operation.
Okay, I took the A7R3 out for a hard test drive last night and the first thing I found was that I absolutely cannot use the face detection system. It doesn't work for what I want to do. I shoot through things and want that focus point exactly where I point it, not where the camera thinks it's supposed to be.
So, the first thing I need to do is get the camera set up so that I can manually place the focus point and get away from the automation.
The next thing I need to do is set a custom button to control the ISO. While auto-ISO may seem convenient, again, I want to be able to control all settings where I want them - shutter speed, aperture and ISO.
I got spoiled by my Fuji X-T2s which have all these settings on dials I can easily switch around without having to dig into the menu.
It's going to take some practice to tame this Sony. I'm sure those of you who have been handling it for awhile or *get* the camera's automation settings more intuitively, it's no big deal. But I shoot moving subjects in layers of composition and I can shoot faster and more accurately when it's me making the decisions and not the camera.
The depth of the sensor is beautiful and the rendition of files at ridiculously high ISOs means images previously impossible are now not only possible but beautifully so.
Today, I will be diving into the settings to get the camera set up so I can completely control it quickly.
I think that eye detection auto focus follow focus stuff has a place, perhaps for active portraits where the subject is not obscured, being shot through other objects.
Oh, and the back button focus button is far too close to the video button. I accidentally shot a few videos before I figured that out.
pasblues wrote:
Okay, I took the A7R3 out for a hard test drive last night and the first thing I found was that I absolutely cannot use the face detection system. It doesn't work for what I want to do. I shoot through things and want that focus point exactly where I point it, not where the camera thinks it's supposed to be.
So, the first thing I need to do is get the camera set up so that I can manually place the focus point and get away from the automation.
The next thing I need to do is set a custom button to control the ISO. While auto-ISO may seem convenient, again, I want to be able to control all settings where I want them - shutter speed, aperture and ISO.
I got spoiled by my Fuji X-T2s which have all these settings on dials I can easily switch around without having to dig into the menu.
It's going to take some practice to tame this Sony. I'm sure those of you who have been handling it for awhile or *get* the camera's automation settings more intuitively, it's no big deal. But I shoot moving subjects in layers of composition and I can shoot faster and more accurately when it's me making the decisions and not the camera.
The depth of the sensor is beautiful and the rendition of files at ridiculously high ISOs means images previously impossible are now not only possible but beautifully so.
Today, I will be diving into the settings to get the camera set up so I can completely control it quickly.
I think that eye detection auto focus follow focus stuff has a place, perhaps for active portraits where the subject is not obscured, being shot through other objects.
Oh, and the back button focus button is far too close to the video button. I accidentally shot a few videos before I figured that out....Show more →
All of what you’d like to do is easily accomplished with a bit of customization. For example, You can assign the ISO control to the back wheel, disable the movie record button except in movie mode, turn off face detection, etc. If you are shooting people, you should maybe give face detection and Eye-AF a bit more time before you disable it completely or at least setup one of the custom modes on the dial to experiment with it. It is a game changer for photographing people.
virtualrain wrote:
All of what you’d like to do is easily accomplished with a bit of customization. For example, You can assign the ISO control to the back wheel, disable the movie record button except in movie mode, turn off face detection, etc. If you are shooting people, you should maybe give face detection and Eye-AF a bit more time before you disable it completely or at least setup one of the custom modes on the dial to experiment with it. It is a game changer for photographing people.
I appreciate the encouragement and I am definitely going to take your advice. It was a trial run this first outing.
I am accustomed to the main controls being outside the menu where I can very quickly adjust them.
Perhaps I should say, I'm just used to the controls being where I have gotten accustomed to them being.
I can quickly spin dials as with this Fuji and make adjustments.
With the Sony, I have to rethink the where are the shutter speed, aperture and ISO. It's slower. The shutter speed and aperture aren't difficult to find but they are difficult to see - you have to look at the viewfinder. Auto-ISO works if I adjust shutter speed or aperture - but I'd still rather just control it myself quickly.
I did give face detection a try and the camera got confused because my scenarios changed rapidly. It got confused between a face and a headstock on a guitar, for instance. There may be some differences when using back-button focus.
I will have to get the Sony custom function buttons set and then force myself to learn how to use them. I'm concerned that ISO is going to be a two step process that is slower. But, I'm whining. There's a way to do this, I just have to force myself to do it.
The results with the new Sony are terrific when the beast is tamed. Yes, the eye-af thing will possibly be workable where the subject is out in the open and not obscured by objects. I shoot through objects a lot, though and I need to be able to put the focus point where I want it without the camera getting confused and choosing something else.
But the Fuji is a much easier transition from DSLR because the controls are more similar.
pasblues wrote:
I appreciate the encouragement and I am definitely going to take your advice. It was a trial run this first outing.
I am accustomed to the main controls being outside the menu where I can very quickly adjust them.
Perhaps I should say, I'm just used to the controls being where I have gotten accustomed to them being.
I can quickly spin dials as with this Fuji and make adjustments.
With the Sony, I have to rethink the where are the shutter speed, aperture and ISO. It's slower. The shutter speed and aperture aren't difficult to find but they are difficult to see - you have to look at the viewfinder. Auto-ISO works if I adjust shutter speed or aperture - but I'd still rather just control it myself quickly.
I did give face detection a try and the camera got confused because my scenarios changed rapidly. It got confused between a face and a headstock on a guitar, for instance. There may be some differences when using back-button focus.
I will have to get the Sony custom function buttons set and then force myself to learn how to use them. I'm concerned that ISO is going to be a two step process that is slower. But, I'm whining. There's a way to do this, I just have to force myself to do it.
The results with the new Sony are terrific when the beast is tamed. Yes, the eye-af thing will possibly be workable where the subject is out in the open and not obscured by objects. I shoot through objects a lot, though and I need to be able to put the focus point where I want it without the camera getting confused and choosing something else.
But the Fuji is a much easier transition from DSLR because the controls are more similar.
I feel that the R3 is a lot more intuitive. I only need to use my thumb to change basic settings like shutter speed (using back dial), ISO (using scroll wheel) and aperture (either on lens or using front dial with my forefinger). Whereas with a Fuji, I have to use BOTH my thumb and forefinger to twist the dials on top of the camera. To me, this slows down the shooting process a bit.
have you tried using the TouchPad? if your focus is getting confused simply touch the face you want to focus on and voila. that feature is a god send!!!!
now sony give me eye tracing in the viewfinder and let me "look" at where I want focus and focus on it. make it happen sony!! hehe
pasblues wrote:
I appreciate the encouragement and I am definitely going to take your advice. It was a trial run this first outing.
I am accustomed to the main controls being outside the menu where I can very quickly adjust them.
Perhaps I should say, I'm just used to the controls being where I have gotten accustomed to them being.
I can quickly spin dials as with this Fuji and make adjustments.
With the Sony, I have to rethink the where are the shutter speed, aperture and ISO. It's slower. The shutter speed and aperture aren't difficult to find but they are difficult to see - you have to look at the viewfinder. Auto-ISO works if I adjust shutter speed or aperture - but I'd still rather just control it myself quickly.
I did give face detection a try and the camera got confused because my scenarios changed rapidly. It got confused between a face and a headstock on a guitar, for instance. There may be some differences when using back-button focus.
I will have to get the Sony custom function buttons set and then force myself to learn how to use them. I'm concerned that ISO is going to be a two step process that is slower. But, I'm whining. There's a way to do this, I just have to force myself to do it.
The results with the new Sony are terrific when the beast is tamed. Yes, the eye-af thing will possibly be workable where the subject is out in the open and not obscured by objects. I shoot through objects a lot, though and I need to be able to put the focus point where I want it without the camera getting confused and choosing something else.
But the Fuji is a much easier transition from DSLR because the controls are more similar.
Yes, I'm thinking that by setting things up and forcing myself to use it, I will develop a new habit - retraining.
I feel that the R3 is a lot more intuitive. I only need to use my thumb to change basic settings like shutter speed (using back dial), ISO (using scroll wheel) and aperture (either on lens or using front dial with my forefinger). Whereas with a Fuji, I have to use BOTH my thumb and forefinger to twist the dials on top of the camera. To me, this slows down the shooting process a bit.
ccp900 wrote:
have you tried using the TouchPad? if your focus is getting confused simply touch the face you want to focus on and voila. that feature is a god send!!!!
now sony give me eye tracing in the viewfinder and let me "look" at where I want focus and focus on it. make it happen sony!! hehe
I feel that the R3 is a lot more intuitive. I only need to use my thumb to change basic settings like shutter speed (using back dial), ISO (using scroll wheel) and aperture (either on lens or using front dial with my forefinger). Whereas with a Fuji, I have to use BOTH my thumb and forefinger to twist the dials on top of the camera. To me, this slows down the shooting process a bit.
I do a lo of adjusting by no-peek because I tend to shoot through the viewfinder - but I think that I still should take some advice here and set the Sony controls up the way you guys are suggesting. The other thing is that I'm not constantly shooting. I do a lot of lighting analysis and composition decisions in addition to making compositional and lens choice decisions. There actually is down-time - pacing - that happens. It's during these times that I make decisions about settings choices. Once I've settled on these choices, I shoot. So, in other words, I'm not constantly changing my settings.
normie610 wrote:
I feel that the R3 is a lot more intuitive. I only need to use my thumb to change basic settings like shutter speed (using back dial), ISO (using scroll wheel) and aperture (either on lens or using front dial with my forefinger). Whereas with a Fuji, I have to use BOTH my thumb and forefinger to twist the dials on top of the camera. To me, this slows down the shooting process a bit.
I like the look up the Fuji controls. The problem with Sony's wheels and dials is that none of them are marked and they are too easily turned. There's no way to tell the actual setting without looking in the camera, and doing that requires changing you screen mode first, so it will show the camera setting. Of couse you can turn the dial to see, but that is changing as setting just to see what it is set at. I've been shooting Sony for almost 5 years and find theie dial and wheel concept to be terrible.
pdmphoto wrote:
I like the look up the Fuji controls. The problem with Sony's wheels and dials is that none of them are marked and they are too easily turned. There's no way to tell the actual setting without looking in the camera, and doing that requires changing you screen mode first, so it will show the camera setting. Of couse you can turn the dial to see, but that is changing as setting just to see what it is set at. I've been shooting Sony for almost 5 years and find theie dial and wheel concept to be terrible.
That's interesting. I've never had this problem but I primarily shoot in Aperture Priority where the only thing I'm changing is the aperture. I do like the physical Exposure Compensation dial on a Sony, so I could see how someone who shoots manual might like physically marked dials for all exposure settings.
