GMPhotography wrote:
Btw this lens has become my lens cap lens. It’s just fun. Lol
Same here.
Hmm... I'm not sure if I was using the right terms, as my camera is set to german. I changed it now to english and repeat here my settings with the correct terms (but still with my mediocre english ).
I prefer the "MF assist" on. Because it's easy for me to press and hold C3 if I don't need the magnifier. C3 is set to "shot. result preview" as my "Live View Display Effect Settings" are turned off. Or just hit once C3 if I want to close magnification to see the whole frame again. And I can still press "focus settings*" (set on my a7RII when I push the wheel to the right) to get the magnifier frame and position it before I automatically zoom in when turning the focus ring.
*focus settings works like "focus magnifier" if "focus mode" is set to MF. Therefore there is no need to set "focus magnifier" on a separate button. No matter if you work with "MF assist" on or off.
Guy, it looks like we are different about the "MF assist" feature. I think both ways have their pros and cons. It's good we can choose.
I had much fun the last days with shooting friends and family with that lens. The use of f1.2 in low light with nice blur in the background and the characteristic contrast/colors of the lens itself is very special. But the lens shines in the daylight too. In my oppinion the RAW files are very robust to contrast and saturation sliders. Therefore you can easily bring out structure and colors on very boring daylights.
Here is an example to illustrate what I mean. I pushed the contrast/saturation over the point I normally would but it still looks nice to me.
ytwong wrote:
Just got myself both 40/1.2 AND 65/2 APO over the weekend. I don't really need the 65 (I have Nikon 60/2.8 micro, ZF 100/2, Mamiya 120/4) but I like its near perfect quality(yet a relatively inexpensive price). I brought them together and saved a tiny little bit.
I think I should consider to block FM in my router and in DNS settings.
The dealer (a long time major VC distributor here) said VC is seeking dealers opinions on wide angles and might resurrect some older APO-Lanthar designs.
jhinkey wrote:
Please resurrect the 180/4 and 125/2.5 APO Lanthars . . . .
and a modern updated optical design for the 35/1.7 (fix the field curvature).
Er, I think you mean they should make a Sony-optimized version (or perhaps more accurately, a thick sensor stack version) of the 35/1.7. Field curvature isn't a major concern when used on the system for which it was originally made...
rscheffler wrote:
Er, I think you mean they should make a Sony-optimized version (or perhaps more accurately, a thick sensor stack version) of the 35/1.7. Field curvature isn't a major concern when used on the system for which it was originally made...
Yeah for Sony and their thick sensor stack - who cares about using this on a Leica camera who are vast minority of users for sure.
Rob L wrote:
Juha Kannisto WROTE: You can move the magnification box anywhere in the frame before going to magnified view if you are not using auto-magnification and there's no need to recompose (change the framing) after focusing that way.
With my A9 I don't use auto-magnification but I have configured the joystick press to bring up the magnification frame, which I then move to the desired position with the joystick and press the joystick again to go to magnified view at the selected area. Sometimes you can focus with peaking alone though, depends on subject.
Thank you Juha! you answered my question from several pages back about magnified view implementation on the A9 & A7RIII. The joy stick seems like a huge benefit for this type of shooting. On my A7RII I have C2 programed to bring up magnification and the control wheel moves the point around. This setup works but is pretty slow and requires a shift away from a normal grip to operate the control wheel. Two questions: how do you re-center the point when configured as you have it? On A7RII you push the Trash (C4) button, which is hard to find by feel. And does your setup change the function of the joystick when using auto-focu?
Thanks! While in the magnification frame placement view, it's the thrash can button that will bring the frame back to center. I don't actually use that much as I rarely want to focus on something that is at dead center. When I re-enter the magnification frame placement view, it starts of from the location where I put the frame last time (unless the camera has been turned off/on in the meanwhile) and I just usually move it from there with the joystick to any new location as it moves pretty fast in the first level of magnification ON A9.
With AF lenses I get the same behavior with the joystick, it brings on the magnification placement selection view just the same (in AF as well as MF modes). I like it that AF can be used in magnified view too with the focus point selector (I think the older models like my A7II and A7r don't have that functionality but the A9 and my wife's A6300 do).
In certain AF modes that include control of AF placement the joystick can still be used for moving around the focus point too with the same setup without changing any settings in-between.
Sorry to be that guy, any person to help me understand if the purple fringing get better at f2, and by how much? Would one still have to be quite careful at f2 with this lens regarding PF? Starting from which aperture does it clean up significantly? Is there any chance one could share a few example images at different apertures?
Juha Kannisto wrote:
Thanks! While in the magnification frame placement view, it's the thrash can button that will bring the frame back to center. I don't actually use that much as I rarely want to focus on something that is at dead center. When I re-enter the magnification frame placement view, it starts of from the location where I put the frame last time (unless the camera has been turned off/on in the meanwhile) and I just usually move it from there with the joystick to any new location as it moves pretty fast in the first level of magnification ON A9.
With AF lenses I get the same behavior with the joystick, it brings on the magnification placement selection view just the same (in AF as well as MF modes). I like it that AF can be used in magnified view too with the focus point selector (I think the older models like my A7II and A7r don't have that functionality but the A9 and my wife's A6300 do).
In certain AF modes that include control of AF placement the joystick can still be used for moving around the focus point too with the same setup without changing any settings in-between. ...Show more →
Dooley wrote:
Sorry to be that guy, any person to help me understand if the purple fringing get better at f2, and by how much? Would one still have to be quite careful at f2 with this lens regarding PF? Starting from which aperture does it clean up significantly? Is there any chance one could share a few example images at different apertures?
I might have a series of images, or I can try to get you something you need but that I acn't do until the coming weekend. Maybe somebody else comes to rescue.
What is the subject you have in mind? Would trees and twigs against a blue sky do? Or are you looking for a B&W target in intense light? Or does it have to be some shine chrome metal in the sunshine?
Thanks for the response. I have no specific subject in mind, but I do find it difficult from individual pictures to realize how quickly the fringing improves as the lens is closed down. The extreme example with the trees in the review were shot at f1.2, one carnival example shows signs of fringing at f1.4 (chains on the carousel) but already improves, was wondering how the situation is at f2.0.
The B&W examples would not bother me as much. Trees against the sky and chrome metal are more situations that may be an issue on my side.
Still trying to understand if and how much the situation improves at f2.0 for challenging contrast situations.
Dooley, I looked around but have deleted nearly all of the initial test images I have taken with the CV40/1.2. By mistake I still have one series only and it's poorly performed.
No tripod, raw, everything set to flat or zero including the sharpening in Adobe Camera Raw, 100% crops, A7R MkII.
Unfortunately blue sky. I'll try to find some darker twigs and overcast weather for you coming weekend. And perhaps some high contrast stuff as well.
Thanks for the response. I have no specific subject in mind, but I do find it difficult from individual pictures to realize how quickly the fringing improves as the lens is closed down. The extreme example with the trees in the review were shot at f1.2, one carnival example shows signs of fringing at f1.4 (chains on the carousel) but already improves, was wondering how the situation is at f2.0.
The B&W examples would not bother me as much. Trees against the sky and chrome metal are more situations that may be an issue on my side.
Still trying to understand if and how much the situation improves at f2.0 for challenging contrast situations....Show more →
there is a good comparison of this in David's review on phillipreeve.net, no chrome reflections, but tree branches. looks like it cleans up a lot by f/2.
sebboh wrote:
there is a good comparison of this in David's review on phillipreeve.net, no chrome reflections, but tree branches. looks like it cleans up a lot by f/2.
Yes, of course, it should already be available. I forgot about those images. Thank you.
Yes, f/2 helps a lot but not completely. Not a problem though, this is after all 100% crops.
Here is another series, found on a memory card I forgot. Also not ideal but it can give you an idea about how the lens works together with the A7R MkII:
Sloppily focused and from the other side of the street, again 100% crops.
twelveish wrote:
I have a stress test of sorts, in a previous post of this same page. The one with the sun in the frame? I've edited that for pf, but I'd be happy to send you the raw file if you want to have a look. It has a lot of pf in the branches.
Hello,
I would be interested to see the non-edited version of that shot. From the Flickr group I understand this was taken at f4.0, I would expect the PF to be a non-issue at that aperture. Would you mind sharing the original?
Still can't wrap my head around this PF - I was so excited again but that last picture on the playground got me concerned again
).
