thrice wrote:
What was wrong with your P645 300/4? Mine is great!
I'm very glad that yours performs well; mine vibrated on my always-quite-rigid-until-now Gitzo largish (GT3533S) tripod so much that I couldn't focus it.. My fotografy hobby is supposed to be enjoyable and NOT an equipment challenge, so I gave the 300 to my friend. That was my longest-lens attempt; I subsequently tried a CZ 210 on a fringer electronic adapter; that (and another CZ) never focused well and consistently so I gave those, too, away.
Jeffrey Behr wrote:
I'm very glad that yours performs well; mine vibrated on my always-quite-rigid-until-now Gitzo largish (GT3533S) tripod so much that I couldn't focus it.. My fotografy hobby is supposed to be enjoyable and NOT an equipment challenge, so I gave the 300 to my friend. That was my longest-lens attempt; I subsequently tried a CZ 210 on a fringer electronic adapter; that (and another CZ) never focused well and consistently so I gave those, too, away.
Hi Jeffrey,
I do not believe that the problem was the lens itself but rather vibration from the camera shutter shock. Also, the camera may vibrate when focusing. A weight on the lens and/or a Bean Bag may help to prevent the vibration when focusing. There are also long lens support systems that can help to support the lens made by Really Right Stuff and other makers.
More on the Steelsring F/GFX. After some more testing it definitely seems like using EF+E setting on the shutter introduces the risk of darkening the top of the frame. I have not been able to reproduce this error in either MS or E setting. The problem is that the EF+E setting seem to be the best setting for me when it comes to sharpness. In MS (fully mechanical shutter), I regularly get soft images regardless of adapting or running native lenses. My guess is that this has to do with shutter shock.
Also when running G-type lenses you are limited to full stop aperture changes, apart from wide open. From there you can close it down approx 1/2 stop. I guess this is unintended. This is a shame when it comes to the 58G, which I prefer to shoot in the 2.0-2.5 range. As it stands now I can shoot it at 1.4, circa 1.8, 2.0 or 2.8. When running E-type lenses with electronically controlled aperture you can go in 1/3 increments just as you would on a Nikon body.
I do not believe that the problem was the lens itself but rather vibration from the camera shutter shock. Also, the camera may vibrate when focusing. A weight on the lens and/or a Bean Bag may help to prevent the vibration when focusing. There are also long lens support systems that can help to support the lens made by Really Right Stuff and other makers.
Jeffrey Behr wrote: "...mine vibrated on my always-quite-rigid-until-now Gitzo largish (GT3533S) tripod so much that I couldn't focus it.."
Hi Jeffrey,
There may have been some vibration between the lens mount/camera and the lens. As I mentioned, the suggestions above regarding the weight, bean bag, and the long lens supports may have aleviated or lessened your issue. We know this in part from using very long lenses for film photography in 35mm and even with large format very many years before digital. In fact there were times when photographers would use 2 tripods; one supporting the camera and the other mounted to the lens tripod mount and still add a bean bag to the front of the long lens. Long and very long lenses increase vibration just due to magnification even just for focusing.
I have not had any issues focusing the 300 on my GFX100S, IBIS is not a bad idea, manually entering lens details will ensure the IBIS behaves appropriately.
It has nothing to do with the lens specifically and is simply a function of the narrow angle of view.
Went for a brief walk and decided to try the Nikkor Ai-S 180/2.8 ED. Initial impressions is that it seem to cover the full sensor quite well, even with the built in hood fully extended. The first image was shot at f/2.8 and the second one at f/4.0. Obviously I have to shoot it a bit more, but it seem promising.
I'm about-98% convinced that NO adapted lens system is going to make me as happy as I am with my 3 Fujis--32-64, 80/1.7, and 100-200..
Last week I accumulated a Fuji H-to-G adapter, two HC80s, an HC100, and an HC150 plus 1.7X Teleconverter.. The 80s' images weren't as resolving or 'nice' looking as those of my Fuji 80, and the 100 never worked on the adapter...just kept blinking randomly and then diplaying something like 'lens error'.. The 150's and 150*1.7's images were very close to those of the 100-200, but they never were better.. Even the 200mm images 'uprezed to 255' looked better than those from the 150*1.7X.
Oh well, most of this can be returned, so not much spent to learn another adaped-lenses lesson.
Now I'll have to find something else to scratch that itch...maybe a Laowa 17mm?
thought I'd post a quick sample with the Canon EF 300mm F4 IS and Fringer adapter. The 300mm is a relative light lens, very sharp wide open and with the Fringer adapter focus is very accurate and pretty quick.
Here is a shot of our dog Shaggy waiting for someone to play with him and then a 100% crop.
I’m looking for a compact wide angle lens for my GFX50R. Has anyone tried the Zeiss Biogon 35mm f/2.8 on the GFX? Did you find it reasonably sharp in the corners at f/8 or f/11, and did it vignette when using the 20x30 format. Thanks!
Jeffrey Behr wrote: I'm about-98% convinced that NO adapted lens system is going to make me as happy as I am with my 3 Fujis--32-64, 80/1.7, and 100-200..
Last week I accumulated a Fuji H-to-G adapter, two HC80s, an HC100, and an HC150 plus 1.7X Teleconverter.. The 80s' images weren't as resolving or 'nice' looking as those of my Fuji 80, and the 100 never worked on the adapter...just kept blinking randomly and then diplaying something like 'lens error'.. The 150's and 150*1.7's images were very close to those of the 100-200, but they never were better.. Even the 200mm images 'uprezed to 255' looked better than those from the 150*1.7X.
Oh well, most of this can be returned, so not much spent to learn another adaped-lenses lesson.
Now I'll have to find something else to scratch that itch...maybe a Laowa 17mm? ...Show more →
Did you do your best to adjust and improve the images from the HC lenses? Since the GF lenses have profiles cooked in, an adapted lens will likely never look quite as compelling (falloff into the corners, perceived sharpness, color fringing, etc.).
However, with careful corrections, you may find them to appear a little better (or not), but without the adjustments, the comparision isn't really quite equal. One alternate approach is to bring all of them into C1 with the profiles turned off and you will have a more equal comparison. That approach may change your opinion on them slightly.
My opinion overall is that the GF lenses are really quite exceptional in general so it would be hard to "beat" them, but you may prefer the rendering of the HC lenses better. That would be a compelling enough reason to be using the adapted lenses, even if they weren't exactly a "better" lens in other respects.
Rick Regan wrote:
I’m looking for a compact wide angle lens for my GFX50R. Has anyone tried the Zeiss Biogon 35mm f/2.8 on the GFX? Did you find it reasonably sharp in the corners at f/8 or f/11, and did it vignette when using the 20x30 format. Thanks!
The Pentax 645 35mm is compact and performes well on the GFX. Quite cheap as well. Which late this saturday evening is not at all answering your question. 🤓
A couple pages back I was sharing my experiences with the Fotodiox Pro Fusion EF-GFX adapter. It had too many quirks so I ended up sending it back. From there I tried the Fringer EF-GFX Pro, and it is working exactly as I hoped so far. Here is an image with the 24 TSE-II.
Yup Fringer is working nice. I do have one issue which I am not sure yet. When using AF on tripod (IBIS off) I can hear something inside the camera, like IBIS still working and getting a blurry image. This is when shooting long shutter speed on tripod. I tried manual focus and then I hear nothing and shots were sharp.
any recommendations for an adpter for Pentax 645 lenses or Mamiya 645 lenses on Fuji GFX here? I really like Novoflex and don't need AF functionality or any other frills.
