I am a classical and jazz concert photographer. I shoot a lot from long distance in crappy light.
I am also a wildlife photographer - mostly birds.
Right now I use the Sigma 120-300 Sport f2.8 (on a monopod) for concerts and I use the Sigma 150-600mm Sport for birds.
I shoot both on a D750 and a D500. I mostly use the D500 for birds.
Although I can get fantastic shots with the 150-600mm of birds sitting still in decent light, my keeper rate of BIF with this lens is fairly terrible. It just doesn't focus fast enough on something moving and it doesn't hold focus very well. Every once-in-awhile I get lucky and capture a flying bird in focus. It seems to be a rare event even when all the other factors necessary are right. Yes, I've tried all the different focus modes on the D500. I use single point when the bird is sitting still and have the preview button set to switch to 3D focusing fast when the bird takes off.
I'm thinking of selling both of these lenses for the Sigma 500mm F4. I have both the new Sigma tc - 1.4 and 2.0. But probably won't use them much.. I think I can give up the 100mm in length in most situations.
For concerts, 500mm will be too long in certain situations and perfect in others. Right now I carry the 24-70mm f2.8 on another body for wide shots when I do concerts. I might need to carry a third body with the 70-200mm f2.8 to cover the gap. (I'm considering a D810 or its replacement)
I think I can sell the two big Sigma lenses I have for about the price of the Sigma 500mm or close to it. So, it won't be a financial loss to make this move.
I'm writing all this to ask what y'all think of this idea/plan?
I'd rather go with used Nikon 500/4 than Sigma. Read the reviews, i believe Nikon is better. For whatever you decide to go with you will loose flexibility of your zoom lenses. Only you can know if it is a big deal or not.
Maybe keep Sigma 120-300 and replace lens you don't get much of keepers : Sigma 150-600 with Nikon 200-500. Then just save $$$ for Nikon 500f4.
I've read reviews to the contrary in comparing the two 500/4's. The difference in cost is enormous too. I also don't think the Nikon 200-500 is better than the Sigma 150-600mm Sport. If anything the impression I get is they are very similar. I'm open to reading other reviews though! Thank you for commenting!
blutch wrote:
I am a classical and jazz concert photographer. I shoot a lot from long distance in crappy light.
I am also a wildlife photographer - mostly birds.
Right now I use the Sigma 120-300 Sport f2.8 (on a monopod) for concerts and I use the Sigma 150-600mm Sport for birds.
I shoot both on a D750 and a D500. I mostly use the D500 for birds.
Although I can get fantastic shots with the 150-600mm of birds sitting still in decent light, my keeper rate of BIF with this lens is fairly terrible. It just doesn't focus fast enough on something moving and it doesn't hold focus very well. Every once-in-awhile I get lucky and capture a flying bird in focus. It seems to be a rare event even when all the other factors necessary are right. Yes, I've tried all the different focus modes on the D500. I use single point when the bird is sitting still and have the preview button set to switch to 3D focusing fast when the bird takes off.
I'm thinking of selling both of these lenses for the Sigma 500mm F4. I have both the new Sigma tc - 1.4 and 2.0. But probably won't use them much.. I think I can give up the 100mm in length in most situations.
For concerts, 500mm will be too long in certain situations and perfect in others. Right now I carry the 24-70mm f2.8 on another body for wide shots when I do concerts. I might need to carry a third body with the 70-200mm f2.8 to cover the gap. (I'm considering a D810 or its replacement)
I think I can sell the two big Sigma lenses I have for about the price of the Sigma 500mm or close to it. So, it won't be a financial loss to make this move.
I'm writing all this to ask what y'all think of this idea/plan?
You have 2 challenges and they are linked to what focal length you want/need for your work:
In doors / in concerts - what focal length do you need - are you able to move about with a big tele Or are you at a fixed location? You obviously would need to be accredited to bring in big gear and to shoot from the best spots. A 300 or 400 f/2.8 would be good for longer shots - both take TC's that would let you reach in to the action. The 400/2.8E FL is the widest super tele lens and perfect for low light/indoor work -- but it is hugely expensive, if you are not selling your work. Buying used versions of the VRII of each is a good way to go -- I owned the 300/2.8 for many years before I bought the 600 or 400. It is perfect for indoor use.
Birds -- more often than not to capture action you need more/longer lens than I have. I am not willing to buy the 800/5.6. I have found that the 600/4E FL with a TC-14E III is good for most situation. Adding the D500 and its 1.5 crop factor is good - turns a 600mm into 900mm or 1,260 with a TC-14E III.
The 200-500 is relatively slow to focus and of course its a f/5.6 - however it is a relatively sharp lens for the price.
Although I can get fantastic shots with the 150-600mm of birds sitting still in decent light, my keeper rate of BIF with this lens is fairly terrible. It just doesn't focus fast enough on something moving and it doesn't hold focus very well.
My experience is just the opposite. Insanely fast and accurate AF. I use Group 90% of the time.
Suggest a Custom tweak via the "Dock" with that Sport, it spanks my 200-500 bigtime in that dept.
Proper settings in the D500 will play a role in keepers as well, so don't blame the lens. Body's used:
D810/D500's also D800/D7200 even the D600 in a pinch (when others are busy w/faster glass)
trenchmonkey wrote:
My experience is just the opposite. Insanely fast and accurate AF. I use Group 90% of the time.
Suggest a Custom tweak via the "Dock" with that Sport, it spanks my 200-500 bigtime in that dept.
Proper settings in the D500 will play a role in keepers as well, so don't blame the lens. Body's used:
D810/D500's also D800/D7200 even the D600 in a pinch (when others are busy w/faster glass)
I am setup to move to Group by just pressing the front button - Preview? - and it has helped.
What Custom teak via the Dock are you referring to? I "think" i have the D500 setup for BIF, but perhaps I missed something. I'd be interested in your settings.
You have 2 challenges and they are linked to what focal length you want/need for your work:
In doors / in concerts - what focal length do you need - are you able to move about with a big tele Or are you at a fixed location? You obviously would need to be accredited to bring in big gear and to shoot from the best spots. A 300 or 400 f/2.8 would be good for longer shots - both take TC's that would let you reach in to the action. The 400/2.8E FL is the widest super tele lens and perfect for low light/indoor work -- but it is hugely expensive, if you are not selling your work. Buying used versions of the VRII of each is a good way to go -- I owned the 300/2.8 for many years before I bought the 600 or 400. It is perfect for indoor use.
Birds -- more often than not to capture action you need more/longer lens than I have. I am not willing to buy the 800/5.6. I have found that the 600/4E FL with a TC-14E III is good for most situation. Adding the D500 and its 1.5 crop factor is good - turns a 600mm into 900mm or 1,260 with a TC-14E III.
The 200-500 is relatively slow to focus and of course its a f/5.6 - however it is a relatively sharp lens for the price. ...Show more →
Andy - I love your work! Thank you for replying!
I often shoot concerts at 300mm f2.8. Most of the time I do not have enough light to go much narrower that F4. Most of the time I really need that f2.8 that the Sigma 120-300 Sport gives me. I shoot in churches, poorly lit theaters and hotel ballrooms at times. I keep it on a monopod and move about behind the audience or on the sides. There are times when I could use more length. I can afford the 500/4, but am a little bit worried about losing that stop.
I haven't looked into a used 400/2.8.. if the price is similar to the Sigma 500/f4 that might be doable.
The biggest problem with the 400/2.8 is that it isn't long enough for birds. Sure, I could use TC's, but doesn't that slow down AF? It is an older lens.. would I be making an improvement over the new Sigma 500/4 then?
Last month I shot 2 concerts, crappy light as usual and people-in-the-frame-all-the-time kind with a Nikkor 300/f PF on D500 and D4s and they came out brilliantly though at ISO 1600.
I will check if I can post a couple here.
I was surprised at how well the 300PF performed in near darkness and color lights.
p.1 #10 · Super Teles for Wildlife and Concert use
sritri wrote:
Last month I shot 2 concerts, crappy light as usual and people-in-the-frame-all-the-time kind with a Nikkor 300/f PF on D500 and D4s and they came out brilliantly though at ISO 1600.
I will check if I can post a couple here.
I was surprised at how well the 300PF performed in near darkness and color lights.
Is that a 2.8 lens? I go up to 3200 ISO and beyond in the concerts I shoot. I really need to use the D750 when I do this. D500 is great up to 1600. After that, the D750 is necessary.
p.1 #12 · Super Teles for Wildlife and Concert use
How long have you been photographing birds in flight? This is a skill that takes time to master and some never do. I shoot birds in flight all the time using the Sigma 150-600 Sport and it tracks quite well. Are you using the focus limiter as this can make a huge difference, perticulary if you are not good at staying on your subject. Try pulling back to 400mm and see if you do better than at 600mm which is quite unforgiving. If you master 400mm, they try 500 and eventualy 600
p.1 #13 · Super Teles for Wildlife and Concert use
blutch wrote:
I've read reviews to the contrary in comparing the two 500/4's. The difference in cost is enormous too. I also don't think the Nikon 200-500 is better than the Sigma 150-600mm Sport. If anything the impression I get is they are very similar. I'm open to reading other reviews though! Thank you for commenting!
Check out the Steve Perry videos on Nikons for tips setting up your camera and AF. The 200-500 and 500 f4 should be significantly better than their sigma counterparts if your camera is set up correctly. Additionally, your 150-600 shouldn't have significant issues with AF on BIF using a D500. Don't give up on your gear just yet.
p.1 #14 · Super Teles for Wildlife and Concert use
i believed the usb dock to custom tweak your af, is, and custom settings of the 150-600 lens.
there shouldn't any issues with either bodies and the 150-600 combo. whether shooting shorebirds in-flight, take-offs, landings, or divings, i am satisfied of the results with an 8 yrs old pro body and lens combo. only with erratic small birds or in low lights that my success rate drops.
before investing in another lens, i concurred with those suggestions to fine tune your gears and techniques.
for bif, my preference is to handhold. even with the new sigma 500/4 reduced weight, you may find being tethered to a mono or tripod restrictive for bif. but if you can comfortable handhold your 120-300/2.8 lens, which i suspected to be similar weight, you should be able to handhold the 500/4.
p.1 #15 · Super Teles for Wildlife and Concert use
morris wrote:
How long have you been photographing birds in flight? This is a skill that takes time to master and some never do. I shoot birds in flight all the time using the Sigma 150-600 Sport and it tracks quite well. Are you using the focus limiter as this can make a huge difference, particulary if you are not good at staying on your subject. Try pulling back to 400mm and see if you do better than at 600mm which is quite unforgiving. If you master 400mm, they try 500 and eventualy 600
Morris
I've been shooting BIF for about 5 years. I'm embarrassed to say I don't really understand the focus limiter controls on this lens. I'd be open to some advice on how exactly to set it in this situation.
I often to zoom out to 400 to shoot moving birds... I know I lock on because the bird is in the frame and then often NONE of the shots will be in focus. Like I said, I sometimes get lucky and get a clear shot or two, but it isn't getting better and often none are in focus.
p.1 #16 · Super Teles for Wildlife and Concert use
tntcorp wrote:
i believed the usb dock to custom tweak your af, is, and custom settings of the 150-600 lens.
there shouldn't any issues with either bodies and the 150-600 combo. whether shooting shorebirds in-flight, take-offs, landings, or divings, i am satisfied of the results with an 8 yrs old pro body and lens combo. only with erratic small birds or in low lights that my success rate drops.
before investing in another lens, i concurred with those suggestions to fine tune your gears and techniques.
for bif, my preference is to handhold. even with the new sigma 500/4 reduced weight, you may find being tethered to a mono or tripod restrictive for bif. but if you can comfortable handhold your 120-300/2.8 lens, which i suspected to be similar weight, you should be able to handhold the 500/4. ...Show more →
I always handhold the 150-600mm. I am also handholding the 120-300mm, but it is much heaver. Is the weight on the Sigma 500 F4 similar to the 120-300?
When you talk about "tweaking settings" with the dock, what do you recommend I tweak?
p.1 #17 · Super Teles for Wildlife and Concert use
I believed the weight of the sigma is on par with the 120-300. I know it is similar to the nikon 300/2.8 vr, and i would imagine the 120-300 with more elements would be heavier than the nikon.
adjust the af at specific focal lengths, the image stabilizer, and set the specific function of the custom switch. the menu is quite intuitive when you see it.
to simplify the issue, recommend to dedicate a camera body to a specific lens so you can get use to the gears. one suggestion is to pair the d500 with the 150-600m.
the usb dock is also useful for firmware update. although, i haven't really bother to update the fw since the lens is working fine. i also hear that on the sport version, the fw took away compatibility with canon teleconverters. not sure if there are any impacts to nikon gears; so read up on the fw before updating the fw.
p.1 #18 · Super Teles for Wildlife and Concert use
I know what you can do with the Dock, but I don't know what adjustments to make. It focuses fine on non-moving targets if the exposure is good and light is good. I really don't know what to set with the custom buttons and the different AF speeds.. I'll dink with it again and see if it improves.
p.1 #19 · Super Teles for Wildlife and Concert use
oh, my bad... i misread and didn't realize iyou have the sport version of the 150-600.
i am impressed with the contemporary version, and the sport version (which i have never used) from my understand, the af is much faster with better optical formula.
nevertheless, the sport and d500 combo should even deliver better images of bif than the d3s and contemp combo. :-)
p.1 #20 · Super Teles for Wildlife and Concert use
blutch wrote:
I know what you can do with the Dock, but I don't know what adjustments to make. It focuses fine on non-moving targets if the exposure is good and light is good. I really don't know what to set with the custom buttons and the different AF speeds.. I'll dink with it again and see if it improves.
Thanks!
B
took 2 seconds to Google this
My C-1 is set to fast AF, limiter 10m to infinity
Even the lowly D7200 responds!
Insanely fast and accurate AF. I use Group 90% of the time.
