ariel777 wrote:
I have found that the Sigma (wide open) plays quite bright and requires an EC to -1.0, at least. Anyone have similar experiences?
That also seems to be the case in the above comparison with the Zeiss. I would be curious to see the results with an EC neg. adjustment .
I haven't needed any EC with mine. The Zeiss looks normal but the exposure is a little low and too much vignette for me. Even the above samples from the Sigma are a little brighter, they don't have any blown highlights, at least not on the hair. They say it's always best to exposed to the right anyway and then bring down and post but only slightly to the right. So far I've noticed the only difference is if there is something black in the image area but the meter is trying to expose for. Normal daylight and most indoor photos look normal on the Sigma. The Zeiss was always darker wide open, even when using live view.
Todd, I then assume it's a matter of personal preference as to EC. However, my 105 does not require any EC adjustment in comparative settings....not a big deal and it certainly does not impact my thoughts as to the lens.
ariel777 wrote:
Todd, I then assume it's a matter of personal preference as to EC. However, my 105 does not require any EC adjustment in comparative settings....not a big deal and it certainly does not impact my thoughts as to the lens.
Yeah I don't think my 105 doesn't either. If I see a dark area (shade, trees, clothing), in the scene I'm about to shoot, I usually drop the EC TO -0.7 automatically as I have trained myself how to see and think like the camera and get the exposure right the first time. But I really haven't had any issues with either lens and exposure.
How does Nikon deal with EFCS (electronic first curtain shutter)? Does it have an option to turn it off or the camera automatically turns if off at high shutter speeds?
When using the Sigma 135/1.8 (or any fast lens) on the Sony A7RII, the out-of-focus area gets way smoother when turning EFCS "off", especially at shutter speeds above 1/2000s.
See these examples: https://www.fredmiranda.com/forum/topic/1487026/4
Fred Miranda wrote:
How does Nikon deal with EFCS (electronic first curtain shutter)? Does it have an option to turn it off or the camera automatically turns if off at high shutter speeds?
When using the Sigma 135/1.8 (or any fast lens) on the Sony A7RII, the out-of-focus area gets way smoother when turning EFCS "off", especially at shutter speeds above 1/2000s.
See these examples: https://www.fredmiranda.com/forum/topic/1487026/4
Interesting topic Fred. I have the nikon D810 and mine was turned on. I had it on for no vibration exposures when using my AstroTrac and starting exposures. However I've never tried it in the "Off" position as seen in the thread you linked us to. It will be interesting to see if nikon models render the same way. We need to experiment....
Fred Miranda wrote:
How does Nikon deal with EFCS (electronic first curtain shutter)? Does it have an option to turn it off or the camera automatically turns if off at high shutter speeds?
When using the Sigma 135/1.8 (or any fast lens) on the Sony A7RII, the out-of-focus area gets way smoother when turning EFCS "off", especially at shutter speeds above 1/2000s.
See these examples: https://www.fredmiranda.com/forum/topic/1487026/4
I just tested this with out of focus cabinets etc in the kitchen background, but didn't notice any difference on the back of the camera. Must not be a good test? May have to test outside like the examples I saw. I used the sigma 135mm f/1.8
Todd wrote:
Interesting topic Fred. I have the nikon D810 and mine was turned on. I had it on for no vibration exposures when using my AstroTrac and starting exposures. However I've never tried it in the "Off" position as seen in the thread you linked us to. It will be interesting to see if nikon models render the same way. We need to experiment....
Todd
I started seeing harsh bokeh when testing the Sony/Zeiss 50mm f/1.4 ZA lens.
Having EFCS "on" when shooting wide open at high shutter speeds deteriorate OOF rendering and it's very evident above 1/2000s. Bokeh rendering looks harsher especially in the transition zone so it may be worth to turn it off at high shutters speeds, where vibration is no longer an issue.
d831 wrote:
Hi Marcelo, do you recall what your approx. shutter speed was for the comparison set with your little one and whether or not you had EFCS on? Thanks!
The Exif Data is : 1/1000, f1.8, ISO 100 and EFCS was ON.
Fred Miranda wrote:
How does Nikon deal with EFCS (electronic first curtain shutter)? Does it have an option to turn it off or the camera automatically turns if off at high shutter speeds?
When using the Sigma 135/1.8 (or any fast lens) on the Sony A7RII, the out-of-focus area gets way smoother when turning EFCS "off", especially at shutter speeds above 1/2000s.
See these examples: https://www.fredmiranda.com/forum/topic/1487026/4
This is a great finding, I will test this week the Sigma 135mm to see if it is a difference with the EFSC ON/OFF.
Lightsearcher wrote:
This is a great finding, I will test this week the Sigma 135mm to see if it is a difference with the EFSC ON/OFF.
Thank you for the info and the link Fred.
Marcelo
Here is a thread (50/1.4 ZA review) where I started seeing the ill-effects of EFCS and bokeh rendering. It's only an issue with fast primes in combination with high shutter speeds. (Same applies to the Sigma 135/1.8 Art) https://www.fredmiranda.com/forum/topic/1443700/7#13668940
Todd wrote:
I just tested this with out of focus cabinets etc in the kitchen background, but didn't notice any difference on the back of the camera. Must not be a good test? May have to test outside like the examples I saw. I used the sigma 135mm f/1.8
You must have a high shutter speed (> 1/2000s) and leave the lens wide open to start to see the difference. Shooting outdoors in broad daylight with foliage in the background should do it.
Fred Miranda wrote:
You must have high shutter speed (> 1/2000s) and leave the lens wide open to start to see the difference. Shooting outdoors in broad daylight with foliage in the background should do it.
Hi Todd, the exposures differ by 1/3 stops so that at least partially accounts for the brighter image with the Sigma.
But it's difficult to draw other conclusions since shutter speeds are at borderline requirements for critical sharpness for the 135mm FL.
Also, are the WB equal on both images?
Is the Sigma 135 metering brighter or rendering brighter for the same exposure, compared to other lenses?
If the latter, it might mean better than expected T-stop comparatively.
swifty168 wrote:
Hi Todd, the exposures differ by 1/3 stops so that at least partially accounts for the brighter image with the Sigma.
But it's difficult to draw other conclusions since shutter speeds are at borderline requirements for critical sharpness for the 135mm FL.
Also, are the WB equal on both images?
I knew this wasn't going to be a great test between the two lenses done in a store. But I could only test with what I had. The camera settings were the same. Aperture prioritiy, auto-ISO, and I just pointed the camera at the fire alarm, shot, swapped lenses and repeated. Nothing else was changes. Sorry, I knew the test would be semi-lame. But I guess it was more for me since I used to have the Zeiss and that I've photographed that ceiling and store many times looking for CA and sharpness.
swifty168 wrote:
Is the Sigma 135 metering brighter or rendering brighter for the same exposure, compared to other lenses?
If the latter, it might mean better than expected T-stop comparatively.
The Zeiss vignettes more than the sigma and I think the exposure is varied because of that... is that assumption wrong? I should have put the camera in manual after getting the Zeiss exposure. I'll be going back to the store this week and will try again if the Zeiss is still there.
Todd wrote:
The Zeiss vignettes more than the sigma and I think the exposure is varied because of that... is that assumption wrong? I should have put the camera in manual after getting the Zeiss exposure. I'll be going back to the store this week and will try again if the Zeiss is still there.
I guess it depends on your metering mode. If you used centre weighted or even spot (although spot can be a bit temperamental if your target patch is small and inconsistent), then the effects of vignetting should be minimized.
Maybe you can try this:
Manual mode (including manual WB), keeping same exposures for both lenses but since the Zeiss is at f2, and the Sigma at 1.8, this means increasing the Sigma shot shutter speed by 1/3 stops.
When you take your shot, just keep an eye on the meter bar in the VF to see what it indicates. If they are both the same, it means they are metering the same. If the Sigma shot indicates underexposure maybe 1/3 stops or something, it probably means that the Sigma meters slightly brighter.
Then check the resultant shots and see if there are any significant difference in brightness. If the Sigma is still brighter, then the T-stop should be the difference (ie. the Sigma has better T-stop) since the exposures are now identical.
Even if you have to up the ISO a little bit, maybe try for 1/2*FL as your minimum shutter speed to try and negate hand shake.
Also, I'm not sure what the lighting setup in the shop is like but with frequency based light source, even with identical WB you might get vastly different colours.
