Peter Figen wrote:
Minimal step size to give adequate overlap of focus between frames. Electronic shutter to give you less dynamic range than thd mechanical shutter.
im use mechanical shutter and 5sec interval beetween shots. or better use electronic shutter and interval 1-2sec ? there is auto option in focus bracketing seting? for what it is need?
Electronic shutter will not wear the mechanical shutter and can be used to fire the whole stack @ max speed with no delay between frames. I did lots of stacking with 50R this way. Of course some light setups might interfere and cause problems with certain speeds. Static scene is needed with the electronic shutter as the reading speed of 50MP GFX sensor is slow and will cause rolling shutter effects with moving objects.
DR loss is not bad with the 50MP GFX. Good light setup usually solves that. With natural photos such as landscapes, mechanical shutter with large step size is usually enough and gives max DR when needed.
Auto option is for cases where the user selects point A (near focus point) and point B (the far focus point). Camera then calculates needed frames to complete the stack taking into account the selected lens aperture.
MJKoski wrote:
Electronic shutter will not wear the mechanical shutter and can be used to fire the whole stack @ max speed with no delay between frames. I did lots of stacking with 50R this way. Of course some light setups might interfere and cause problems with certain speeds. Static scene is needed with the electronic shutter as the reading speed of 50MP GFX sensor is slow and will cause rolling shutter effects with moving objects.
DR loss is not bad with the 50MP GFX. Good light setup usually solves that. With natural photos such as landscapes, mechanical shutter with large step size is usually enough and gives max DR when needed.
Auto option is for cases where the user selects point A (near focus point) and point B (the far focus point). Camera then calculates needed frames to complete the stack taking into account the selected lens aperture....Show more →
DR lost with electronic shutter? how to select focus point A and B ?it is in menu- i must set menu to auto bracketing?
leonasj wrote:
Enduro Zero Ceramic 6806 30x42x7mm
190 photo stack.
This is a great beginning. The problems I see here are a couple. First and foremost is that the transition between what's in focus and what is out of focus is too hard. It feels unnatural. It actually might get better by stopping down to f/5.6 or f/8 and then you'd have greater overlap between frames and wouldn't need so many slices. The second is a very common type of artifact that happens in stacking, and that's where you get these little areas of out of focus within an otherwise sharp part of the frame. Usually this is caused by something going out of focus in front of something else while you're making the exposures. Usually this is most effectively dealt with by drawing a Path in Photoshop, making a selection based on that Path, and then cloning in the areas that need it.
where you find your mtf test shows GF50 at f4 is sharper for GF120 at f4 where you find gf50 at f5.6 sharper for gf45 at f5.6? gf45 at f2.8 even a bit sharper vs gf50 at 5.6 in real world photos. i have gf45,gf50 and gf120. GF120 at f4 smokes both gf45 and gf50 at any f aperture. https://blog.kasson.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/06/gf-all-primes-mtf50.png there are world famous lens testers as Jim from pcmag.com,lenstip.pl,opticallimits and more and nonameskassons
leonasj wrote:
where you find your mtf test shows GF50 at f4 is sharper for GF120 at f4 where you find gf50 at f5.6 sharper for gf45 at f5.6? gf45 at f2.8 even a bit sharper vs gf50 at 5.6 in real world photos. i have gf45,gf50 and gf120. GF120 at f4 smokes both gf45 and gf50 at any f aperture. https://blog.kasson.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/06/gf-all-primes-mtf50.png there are world famous lens testers as Jim from pcmag.com and noname kassons
You've been beating this dead horse for a while. Give it a rest, please.
And cool it with the insults, please. There is no point to that.