Folks i have the PCX 2500 if anyone wants me to try there CV 35 or 28 with the Hawks adapter i can try and get infinity. So if anyone wants to send and return to me just let me know. Ill be glad to try it for you
Phillip,
Have you tried opening up the CV 35/1.7 or 28/2 and looking for any shims?
Relying on cheap adapters is really unreliable. I have bough a few cheap ones and could never reach infinity with the ZM 35/1.4 without shim removal...
Fred Miranda wrote:
Phillip,
Have you tried opening up the CV 35/1.7 or 28/2 and looking for any shims?
Relying on cheap adapters is really unreliable. I have bough a few cheap ones and could never reach infinity with the ZM 35/1.4 without shim removal...
I just own the 35 and I tried and two screws resisted my attempts to open them. But I think someone in this thread managed to open it and found no shims to adjust the lens.
I am still on the fencer whether to go the Kolari route which would give me access to a wide range of M-mount lenses with close focus adapter or if I go for the front filter solution which is cheaper as long as I use just a few lenses but my CV35 won't work with a close focus adapter. I am not in a hurry though and so far the CV35 is my only M-mount lens and I wasn't bothered by the FC that much.
I am a bit surprised that your ZM didn't reach infinity with the cheap adapter. I own more than a dozen cheap adapters for SLR lenses and without exception they are too short.
artur5 wrote:
Supposing a PCX5000 is used with the CV35, an adapter 0.25-0.3mm. too short would do. I don't know if the Hawks has that much for infinity adjust. Anyway, my cheapie Pixco focused already past infinity with normal lenses when I purchased it and now, after tiresome shaving sessions, is only 9.35mm.
I was unable to reach infinity focus with the CV 35/1.7 + PCX 5000 on a Hawks adapter, not even close with max adjustment.
robgo2 wrote:
I was unable to reach infinity focus with the CV 35/1.7 + PCX 5000 on a Hawks adapter, not even close with max adjustment.
Rob
We can expect that a "shorter adapter" will be even worse than the Hawks. That tell me that a CV 28/2 + PCX 2000 will be hard to achieve infinity without the removal of internal shims...
Rob, where you able to open up your CV 35 and look for any shims?
Fred Miranda wrote:
We can expect that a "shorter adapter" will be even worse than the Hawks. That tell me that a CV 28/2 + PCX 2000 will be hard to achieve infinity without the removal of internal shims...
Rob, where you able to open up your CV 35 and look for any shims?
Phillip Reeve wrote:
I just own the 35 and I tried and two screws resisted my attempts to open them. But I think someone in this thread managed to open it and found no shims to adjust the lens.
I am still on the fencer whether to go the Kolari route which would give me access to a wide range of M-mount lenses with close focus adapter or if I go for the front filter solution which is cheaper as long as I use just a few lenses but my CV35 won't work with a close focus adapter. I am not in a hurry though and so far the CV35 is my only M-mount lens and I wasn't bothered by the FC that much.
I am a bit surprised that your ZM didn't reach infinity with the cheap adapter. I own more than a dozen cheap adapters for SLR lenses and without exception they are too short.
Fred Miranda wrote:
This video shows how to remove some shims from the CV 35/1.4: (right after 5min)
Ah, OK I didn't realize you have to remove the rear lens element, I thought the shims were accessible after removing the rear flange which is all I took off. I don't have any tools to do that.
mcbroomf wrote:
Ah, OK I didn't realize you have to remove the rear lens element, I thought the shims were accessible after removing the rear flange which is all I took off. I don't have any tools to do that.
Wait, does that mean this shim removal changes the spacing between elements?
DavidBM wrote:
Wait, does that mean this shim removal changes the spacing between elements?
Not necessarily. I think it depends on whether the rear group moves. ie if it were fixed then the shim would change the front group spacing, but I just checked and on both the 35/1.7 and 28/1.9 the rear group does move. Maybe other's who've taken apart a lens can comment.
GMPhotography wrote:
So I went into Ace hardware in the plumbing section. I came real close to getting the exact size but its like 47mm in diameter . So what I did was cut it in half laid it in on top of the step up ring 49-55 than put the PCX 5000 in it. What it does is cut down all the extra room and made it tighter in the mount. Still a touch of play but damn close to sitting still and not getting far off center. If your careful once you have it set than you can lay down your retaining ring on it. So for me it worked. I did the ZM 35 lens. Once I get the ElPro 3 for the 25 I will do the same.
I took Guy's suggestion and was able to install without cutting the O-ring. Simply put the O-ring around the outside of the PCX-5000 and set it in position. The O-ring helps center the PCX glass quite nicely and I was able to simply screw on the Step down and Retainer rings. Centered glass, no movement. Now I'm just waiting on my Elpro 3.
mcbroomf wrote:
Ah, OK I didn't realize you have to remove the rear lens element, I thought the shims were accessible after removing the rear flange which is all I took off. I don't have any tools to do that.
That's how you would have do with the ZM 25 or ZM 28 lenses. A spanner wrench is your friend.
Fred Miranda wrote:
That's how you would have do with the ZM 25 or ZM 28 lenses. A spanner wrench is your friend.
Yes, I went up to the top post and looked at the Wiki after I watched the video you posted. I may get one and try, but it won't be for a while. The ring is exposed so it doesn't look like the rear group has to be removed with the rubber bung.
mcbroomf wrote:
Yes, I went up to the top post and looked at the Wiki after I watched the video you posted. I may get one and try, but it won't be for a while. The ring is exposed so it doesn't look like the rear group has to be removed with the rubber bung.
mcbroomf wrote:
Fred, what filter was recommended for the 28/2? I know that the 5m is the one for the 35/1.7
Thx
I'll send Haruhiko pictures showing the rear of the lens so perhaps he can calculate the pupil exit distance and the optimal PCX for it. My guess, it will be a PCX 2.5m.
Bust that bad boy open and let see what makes it tick. Lol
Fred Miranda wrote:
I'll send Haruhiko pictures showing the rear of the lens so perhaps he can calculate the pupil exit distance and the optimal PCX for it. My guess, it will be a PCX 2.5m.
mcbroomf wrote:
Not necessarily. I think it depends on whether the rear group moves. ie if it were fixed then the shim would change the front group spacing, but I just checked and on both the 35/1.7 and 28/1.9 the rear group does move. Maybe other's who've taken apart a lens can comment.
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Fred Miranda wrote:
I may get the CV 28/2 and try it out.
Please do! If it does turn out to be fixable it'd be an inexpensive stop gap 10 blader before Loxia (I doubt it'll challenge the ZF as reigning resolution champ though..)
