nehemiahphoto wrote:
I agree with Sebboh, but with a bit of distinction/nuance—I actually like the performance of the 35 Lux FLE on a stock Sony because it trades corner sharpness for midzone. The midzone on a stock Sony is better.
The CV 35/1.7 performs well enough for many uses/is less affected than a ZM 35/1.4 or CV 35/1.5 or CV 35/2. The 35/1.7 has good central and midzone performance WO, and is good across the frame by 2.8.
Thanks for the input. Yes, I had a CV35 f2, it was a pain using it on a Sony.
Both you and sebboh should write something again for philip.reeve - something like what is in my bag or something to update re your recent gear, it will be fun to read!
I know this is a bit of a long shot but does anyone have a recommendation on an adaptor to use with the ZM 35/1.4 that allows infinity focus with the PCX, without removing shims - that they've picked up more recently?
I've been through about 12 now. 7 from k&h and 5 from random ali-express ones. Hopefully there's still some sloppy ones being made...
I don't mind if it's close focus also, that would be awesome actually as then I'd have both in one but I imagine that's the opposite of what I'm looking for as those extend further right, but maybe if one is super flexible?
I want to use this on a film body in the future so I'd love to get something that just works without needing to swap the shims out each time.
jaygould wrote:
Are Kolari modded Sony cameras significantly better than Nikon Z cameras when adapting Leica M lenses? Or are the a Z cameras "good enough"?
That's a good question. While I have read a lot of anecdotal and sometimes conflicting info about the Nikon sensor, I can assure you that a Sony sensor modified by Kolari delivers the same image quality as a Leica M. For example, my A7CR 60MP with the Kolari mod gives the same resolution and contrast from M‑lenses (including the most demanding wide‑angle lenses) compared to a Leica M11 with its 60MP sensor.
I also find the Leica SL series good enough for adapting M-lenses. It's not like a Leica M but it's 90% there.
I found a place in the UK that will trim the PCX from 50mm to 49mm. Just trying to hunt down a filter that can accomodate it, any suggestions?
Also just a warning, I remember coming across a post in here a while back that mentioned their PCX got chipped from doing the reduction.
It's such a minor thing to risk it over - I'm relatively happy with the size of the distagon on my a7cii but if I can just get it the exactly the same overall size as when I just use a protective/uv filter, I'll be happy. That little extra length/size with the stepup-stepdown just annoys me a tad. If there was like a slimline half-size stepup, stepdown combo that would be great. Though it would still flare out a tad.
Happier still if I can get this done without removing shims by finding a high quality but incorrectly made mount adaptor but that seems unlikely at this point. And even happier if they made a PCX specifically for the zm distagon 1.4 on Sony!
I remember a representative from Optimasigma offerring something like that years ago here but it seems like he didn't get a reply. TBF I'd have no idea the specifications to pass along to him either.
I've finally managed to get my hands on the SLB-50-1500PM PCX filters, and have modded my G21 and G28s. The camera back is a Nikon ZF, and the M-to-Z adapter is by Rayqual. For both lenses I'm using rework-lens helicoids.
For the G21, without PCX, I shimmed the lens 0.500mm (I have a digital micrometer to check the shims) for infinity focus. With the PCX, I re-shimmed to 0.200mm, but now that I found some shims in non-0.100mm multiples, I'm going to check if 0.180mm or 0.150mm are better.
For the G28, without PCX, I shimmed 0.200mm for infinity.
Unfortunately, removing all the shims, is not enough to get infinity with the PCX. Mayyybe by F11, but that makes it pretty unusable. I also tried reversing the PCX, as well as mounting it further out from the front element.
Does anyone have any tips or tricks here? I haven't been able to find an M-to-Z adapter that explicitly calls out that it'll allow focusing past infinity. If the G21 is any indication, I'd need the adapter to be "thinner" by up to 0.300mm to get proper infinity focus.
Sam_W wrote:
I've finally managed to get my hands on the SLB-50-1500PM PCX filters, and have modded my G21 and G28s. The camera back is a Nikon ZF, and the M-to-Z adapter is by Rayqual. For both lenses I'm using rework-lens helicoids.
For the G21, without PCX, I shimmed the lens 0.500mm (I have a digital micrometer to check the shims) for infinity focus. With the PCX, I re-shimmed to 0.200mm, but now that I found some shims in non-0.100mm multiples, I'm going to check if 0.180mm or 0.150mm are better.
For the G28, without PCX, I shimmed 0.200mm for infinity.
Unfortunately, removing all the shims, is not enough to get infinity with the PCX. Mayyybe by F11, but that makes it pretty unusable. I also tried reversing the PCX, as well as mounting it further out from the front element.
Does anyone have any tips or tricks here? I haven't been able to find an M-to-Z adapter that explicitly calls out that it'll allow focusing past infinity. If the G21 is any indication, I'd need the adapter to be "thinner" by up to 0.300mm to get proper infinity focus....Show more →
In the days when I was sorting out adapters using shims, first for Sony E and then for Fuji FX I generally found that adapters were somewhere around 0.14mm short + or- 0.02. Very few strayed outside that range. (One was too long and two were actually right!). That was 6-8 years ago and things might have changed If 0.14 or so will get you to infinity it would be worth taking a punt on something like a K&F if they do G to Z, or even G to M and stack them. (have F to M to stack with M to E in the old days and M to FX now).
The other trick I have done to get short adapters is to look at the microscope or astro telescope adapters. They use T2 thread as a standard thread and I have flat F female to T2 male and T2 female to FX body screwed together makes a short adapterto put my Fuji bodies on a fancy Nikon bellows with movements and give more 'working space' between lens head and sensor. Spacer rings are available. T2 is M42 x 0.75 thread. Diligent creative searching of ebay finds lots of possibilities from Chinese workshops!
Gerry
Edit, re reading your post I see you've tried the first idea already, so ignore that!
All good! After more reading/researching and checking lens disassembly videos, I've started e-mailing adapter manufacturers to ask about their tolerances and whether I can "de-shim" their M-to-Z adapter. I have a few left to contact, but if that doesn't go anywhere, then I'll try buying the cheapest ones I find online to test out. I think my micrometer can handle the thickness of M-to-Z as well, to further check.
Sam_W wrote:
All good! After more reading/researching and checking lens disassembly videos, I've started e-mailing adapter manufacturers to ask about their tolerances and whether I can "de-shim" their M-to-Z adapter. I have a few left to contact, but if that doesn't go anywhere, then I'll try buying the cheapest ones I find online to test out. I think my micrometer can handle the thickness of M-to-Z as well, to further check.
The very cheapest I ever bought, a no name less than £10 M to E was one that was exactly right! The other was the official Fuji M to FX which was tge most expensive! Be interesting to hear if any manufacturer admits they are less than 'dead on '.
gyoung143 wrote:
The very cheapest I ever bought, a no name less than £10 M to E was one that was exactly right! The other was the official Fuji M to FX which was tge most expensive! Be interesting to hear if any manufacturer admits they are less than 'dead on '.
Gerry
Hi Gerry,
Do you have a link for this M to E adapter? All adapters are short, Ttartisan one being the worst. Thanks.
gyoung143 wrote:
The very cheapest I ever bought, a no name less than £10 M to E was one that was exactly right! The other was the official Fuji M to FX which was tge most expensive! Be interesting to hear if any manufacturer admits they are less than 'dead on '.
Gerry
Hi Gerry,
Do you have a link for this M to E adapter? All adapters are short, Ttartisan one being the worst. Thanks.
Wonder if those weird adapters with tilt function can be of help. They may focus beyond infinity out of general flexibility. You might need to double-adapt to get the lens/body combo you need.
rico wrote:
Wonder if those weird adapters with tilt function can be of help. They may focus beyond infinity out of general flexibility. You might need to double-adapt to get the lens/body combo you need.
Unfortunately, unlikely, since the difference between the Leica M and Nikon Z register distance is 11.8-11.95mm. Barely enough to get a few mm of additional focusing helicoid.
My approach so far has been to image search for M-to-Z adapters and find ones where the inner flange are looks to stick up a bit (so there's something to work with), and then e-mail the manufacturers to ask if they use shims in there so that I can get back 0.2-0.3mm if I remove them.
I'm also pondering just picking up two or three cheap-o ones to experiment with.
