There may exist 1m Proxar lenses in black B52 housings? These housing have a retention ring in the rear that can be unscrewed, allowing the Proxar lens to come out.
I received the black 1m Proxar lens for about 2 weeks but I still couldn't figure how to remove the retention ring in order to get the lens out I don't have appropriate tools for it. Any suggestion how I can do that? Appreciate the info shared here.
Do you have a dremel with a rotary disc cutter or camera spanners?
The rear retention ring on the black housings I had, was able to unscrew. You need something that can grip the ring and turn it. There exist some rubber camera tools of various diameters. A 50-52mm diameter rubber tool could probably grip it well enough to remove it.
One of the retention rings I had was loose and just unscrewed. With another, I used a dremel and rotary disc cutter to make two small notches in the retention ring, then unscrewed it with camera spanners.
I think you will probably need some form of tool to assist in getting the lens out. If there was a way to heat the outer ring, but freeze the inner ring, thermal expansion and contraction would take place, and the ring may shrink enough to become loose and then could be unscrewed. Just some thoughts.
You could try placing it inside a freezer, to drops its temperature, then take it out and warm the outer ring only somehow quickly. Then lightly bang the housing on a hard surface to maybe loosen the ring.
wstam wrote:
I received the black 1m Proxar lens for about 2 weeks but I still couldn't figure how to remove the retention ring in order to get the lens out I don't have appropriate tools for it. Any suggestion how I can do that? Appreciate the info shared here.
Do you have a dremel with a rotary disc cutter or camera spanners?
The rear retention ring on the black housings I had, was able to unscrew. You need something that can grip the ring and turn it. There exist some rubber camera tools of various diameters. A 50-52mm diameter rubber tool could probably grip it well enough to remove it.
One of the retention rings I had was loose and just unscrewed. With another, I used a dremel and rotary disc cutter to make two small notches in the retention ring, then unscrewed it with camera spanners.
I think you will probably need some form of tool to assist in getting the lens out. If there was a way to heat the outer ring, but freeze the inner ring, thermal expansion and contraction would take place, and the ring may shrink enough to become loose and then could be unscrewed. Just some thoughts.
You could try placing it inside a freezer, to drops its temperature, then take it out and warm the outer ring only somehow quickly. Then lightly bang the housing on a hard surface to maybe loosen the ring.
Thanks a lot for the info on the tools. They are new to me but after google about them, I roughly have the ideas. I will see how to assess to them.
Just wonder if I have to pay some money to acquire them (especially the dremel), will it be better I use the money to get the 1000mm Planoconvex lens instead. I will see if I can rent it first.
The 1000mm Planoconvex may cost upwards of $100.00 depending on where you live.
My 1500mm Planoconvex from OptoSigma cost me roughly 86.00 GBP in the U.K.
I think a cheap rotary tool and camera spanner would cost less. wstam wrote:
Thanks a lot for the info on the tools. They are new to me but after google about them, I roughly have the ideas. I will see how to assess to them.
Just wonder if I have to pay some money to acquire them (especially the dremel), will it be better I use the money to get the 1000mm Planoconvex lens instead. I will see if I can rent it first.
Just one thought, wstam. This Proxar 1m. is a +1 diopter meniscus close-up lens. It's quite possible that any other good quality +1 diopter close-up will perform similarly, for what regards our purpose of corner improvement. Unlike longer focals, these +1 diopters are readily available everywhere, You can buy them very cheap ( if you haven't one already) and they come in regular threaded mounts. I'd rather try first this solution. You can always compare the Proxar and the other +1 diopter (holding provisionally the Proxar to the main lens with tape or something) and see if it's worth the expense of buying rotary tools and spanners. Maybe you'll find out that there's no visible difference in the performances of both corrective lenses.
Today I paired my 5m filter with the Nokton 50mm 1.5.
As the lens is longer than the ZM 35mm 1.4 infinity focus is not possible even with my short adapter.
Unfortunately I don't know how to open that lens either (there are no less than 4 rings for a camera spanner).
Nevertheless I checked at ~2m and the corner performance is definetly improved here: voigtlander_50mm_1.5_nokton by Bastian Kratzke, auf Flickr
artur5 wrote:
Just one thought, wstam. This Proxar 1m. is a +1 diopter meniscus close-up lens. It's quite possible that any other good quality +1 diopter close-up will perform similarly, for what regards our purpose of corner improvement. Unlike longer focals, these +1 diopters are readily available everywhere, You can buy them very cheap ( if you haven't one already) and they come in regular threaded mounts. I'd rather try first this solution. You can always compare the Proxar and the other +1 diopter (holding provisionally the Proxar to the main lens with tape or something) and see if it's worth the expense of buying rotary tools and spanners. Maybe you'll find out that there's no visible difference in the performances of both corrective lenses....Show more →
Thanks.
I already bought the 1m Proxar, trying to take out the lens. I have ordered the spanners (the rubber and metal ones) from the net. They are not too expensive and can be handy for future uses. I should be able to get hold of a cheap small drill. Will see how it goes
BastianK wrote:
Today I paired my 5m filter with the Nokton 50mm 1.5.
As the lens is longer than the ZM 35mm 1.4 infinity focus is not possible even with my short adapter.
Unfortunately I don't know how to open that lens either (there are no less than 4 rings for a camera spanner).
Nevertheless I checked at ~2m and the corner performance is definetly improved here: https://c6.staticflickr.com/1/341/32138684405_bf370c44d4_o.jpg voigtlander_50mm_1.5_nokton by Bastian Kratzke, auf Flickr
Looks good. I gotta try the 5m lens on the Zeiss 50/1.5C.
I wonder what's the optimal lens for the Sonnar 50/1.5C would be though. I will have 1.5m and 5m to try.
Fred
GMPhotography wrote:
It was me bud. Fed x is picking up at my door to deliver it to you. Im here in LA
Too bad I'm not home I would have just sent it to you
That's too funny Guy!
They told me it was shipped to someone else by mistake and I replied I would not mind to wait until the end the month. Later on they wrote me that FedEX would try to fix their error.
I just got to Orange County from Yosemite tonight. Email me whenever you can.
Best,
Fred
Hey everyone, despite a heavy snowfall, I was able to get some shots with my A7RII with the 35/1.4 ZM and OptoSigma SLB-50-5000PM. This isn't my usual location for testing, but the conditions are what they are. My take on the filter is that the corners are much sharper with the filter from f1.4 to f11, and at f16, the ZM without the filter appears to be a tad sharper. The OptoSigma also appears to be flattening the field a bit in the corners.
I uploaded my shots at full resolution on my Flickr page. You can download them from Flickr. Below is the link: https://flic.kr/s/aHskPhkUAC
I removed the vignetting in the corners and I tried to normalize the exposure of the images as much as possible. I did no distortion, chromatic aberration, or white balance corrections. The images were exported directly from Adobe Camera Raw. Enjoy!
scrappydog wrote:
Hey everyone, despite a heavy snowfall, I was able to get some shots with my A7RII with the 35/1.4 ZM and OptoSigma SLB-50-5000PM. This isn't my usual location for testing, but the conditions are what they are. My take on the filter is that the corners are much sharper with the filter from f1.4 to f11, and at f16, the ZM without the filter appears to be a tad sharper. The OptoSigma also appears to be flattening the field a bit in the corners.
I uploaded my shots at full resolution on my Flickr page. You can download them from Flickr. Below is the link: https://flic.kr/s/aHskPhkUAC
I removed the vignetting in the corners and I tried to normalize the exposure of the images as much as possible. I did no distortion, chromatic aberration, or white balance corrections. The images were exported directly from Adobe Camera Raw. Enjoy!...Show more →
scrappydog wrote:
Hey everyone, despite a heavy snowfall, I was able to get some shots with my A7RII with the 35/1.4 ZM and OptoSigma SLB-50-5000PM. This isn't my usual location for testing, but the conditions are what they are. My take on the filter is that the corners are much sharper with the filter from f1.4 to f11, and at f16, the ZM without the filter appears to be a tad sharper. The OptoSigma also appears to be flattening the field a bit in the corners.
I uploaded my shots at full resolution on my Flickr page. You can download them from Flickr. Below is the link: https://flic.kr/s/aHskPhkUAC
I removed the vignetting in the corners and I tried to normalize the exposure of the images as much as possible. I did no distortion, chromatic aberration, or white balance corrections. The images were exported directly from Adobe Camera Raw. Enjoy!...Show more →
Thank you for posting these.
Though I must say: I see the same loss in the midframe my Eksma Optics filter exhibits.
Still clearly apparent at f/4.0.
Check the area on the roof with the small chimney (or whatever that may be).
