Mathieu18 wrote:
Yea like Vivek said. Sony 0.5mm shaker, 1.3mm hot mirror, 0.7mm epoxied. And the 1.3mm hot mirror layer is actually a sandwiched hot mirror and AA filter.
I got the Nikon number from a well known blogger that talks to Nikon. He PM’d it to me so I don’t know that he wants it attributed to him but I believe it’s good info. Also, I tried a Loxia 35 on that 1.8mm modifies A7RII and it was a total mess outside the center. It’s not bad at all on a Nikon, better in the corners actually, so there’s no way it’s even thinner than 1.8mm
...Show more →hiepphotog wroteMathieu18 wroteI think it was found that going any stronger basically induced too much midzone dip to be worth it. Since the Nikon is a bit (0.2mm) thinner, it should show slightly more midzone dip and more corner correction, but I'm guessing it'll be slightly (very slightly) better than stock Sony. Part of the confusion is the early, incorrect reports that Nikon was close to 1mm of stack, which didn't account for the final, epoxied layer.
hiepphotog wroteMathieu18 wroteNah, 1500 is probably still good. I used the 1500 on a 1.8mm modified Sony and it was better than the stock Sony. Nikon is 2.3mm, so it should be slightly better than the Sony with the 1500 but probably not material.
@lsds@@@@@ To mount the filter on the 21, as Vivek said, you'll want to put it inside the lenses filter threads, then use the 55>52 step down to hold it in (plus retainer if necessary, I forget.) You won't want to step it down, then mount it via a filter housing. Bit of a pain if you plan to use the PCX with other G's, best to get 2 PCX's, one for the 28 and one for the 21.
As to infinity... unscrew the front name plate. There are 4 small screws. Get a JIS screwdriver set. Remove the screws and the front optical block will fall out if you turn it over. There will be shims behind the block. Remove the shims, replace the block and I'll almost (ALMOST) guarantee you have infinity focus. Super easy to do.
hiepphotog wroteYou can't use the same filter for the Sony system on the Nikon since you "overcompensated" for the problem. Lack of infinity and general softness can be tested without the filter to see if it's your adapter issue.Interesting since the front filter focal length was calculated using the thickness difference and other parameters. Well, I'm glad it doesn't matter as much then.I don't believe the stock Nikon's stack is only 0.2mm thinner than the stock Sony's. Kolari doesn't measure the sensor's clear glass cover but the rest glass stack they do: Nikon - 1.1mm, Canon 1.6mm and Sony 2mm. Assuming the sensor's clear glass cover thickness is the same (~0.9-1mm), it's still 0.9mm difference, which would explain the M performance better IMO. 0.2mm is too small.
So it looks like Nikon is .5mm shaker, 1.1mm hot mirror, .7mm epoxied cover? Is that correct? And then Kolari just measured the 1.1mm hot mirror part.
No separate shaker glass from A7II onward. IBIS is the shaker. This is copied to the Zs.
Epoxied cover glass is likely 0.7mm (can’t go thinner than that for this area). The rest 1.6mm. The hotmirror is a dichroic coating applied on the front side of the filter/AA stack that includes an UV/IR cut filter. The dichroic filter and the other blue green filter work in different ways. One reflects and the other absorbs.
Steve Spencer wrote: Mathieu18 wroteYea like Vivek said. Sony 0.5mm shaker, 1.3mm hot mirror, 0.7mm epoxied. And the 1.3mm hot mirror layer is actually a sandwiched hot mirror and AA filter.
I got the Nikon number from a well known blogger that talks to Nikon. He PM’d it to me so I don’t know that he wants it attributed to him but I believe it’s good info. Also, I tried a Loxia 35 on that 1.8mm modifies A7RII and it was a total mess outside the center. It’s not bad at all on a Nikon, better in the corners actually, so there’s no way it’s even thinner than 1.8mm
hiepphotog wroteMathieu18 wroteI think it was found that going any stronger basically induced too much midzone dip to be worth it. Since the Nikon is a bit (0.2mm) thinner, it should show slightly more midzone dip and more corner correction, but I'm guessing it'll be slightly (very slightly) better than stock Sony. Part of the confusion is the early, incorrect reports that Nikon was close to 1mm of stack, which didn't account for the final, epoxied layer.
hiepphotog wroteMathieu18 wroteNah, 1500 is probably still good. I used the 1500 on a 1.8mm modified Sony and it was better than the stock Sony. Nikon is 2.3mm, so it should be slightly better than the Sony with the 1500 but probably not material.
@lsds@@@@@@ To mount the filter on the 21, as Vivek said, you'll want to put it inside the lenses filter threads, then use the 55>52 step down to hold it in (plus retainer if necessary, I forget.) You won't want to step it down, then mount it via a filter housing. Bit of a pain if you plan to use the PCX with other G's, best to get 2 PCX's, one for the 28 and one for the 21.
As to infinity... unscrew the front name plate. There are 4 small screws. Get a JIS screwdriver set. Remove the screws and the front optical block will fall out if you turn it over. There will be shims behind the block. Remove the shims, replace the block and I'll almost (ALMOST) guarantee you have infinity focus. Super easy to do.Interesting since the front filter focal length was calculated using the thickness difference and other parameters. Well, I'm glad it doesn't matter as much then.I don't believe the stock Nikon's stack is only 0.2mm thinner than the stock Sony's. Kolari doesn't measure the sensor's clear glass cover but the rest glass stack they do: Nikon - 1.1mm, Canon 1.6mm and Sony 2mm. Assuming the sensor's clear glass cover thickness is the same (~0.9-1mm), it's still 0.9mm difference, which would explain the M performance better IMO. 0.2mm is too small.So it looks like Nikon is .5mm shaker, 1.1mm hot mirror, .7mm epoxied cover? Is that correct? And then Kolari just measured the 1.1mm hot mirror part.
realVivek wrote:
No separate shaker glass from A7II onward. IBIS is the shaker. This is copied to the Zs.
Steve Spencer wroteMathieu18 wroteYea like Vivek said. Sony 0.5mm shaker, 1.3mm hot mirror, 0.7mm epoxied. And the 1.3mm hot mirror layer is actually a sandwiched hot mirror and AA filter.
I got the Nikon number from a well known blogger that talks to Nikon. He PM’d it to me so I don’t know that he wants it attributed to him but I believe it’s good info. Also, I tried a Loxia 35 on that 1.8mm modifies A7RII and it was a total mess outside the center. It’s not bad at all on a Nikon, better in the corners actually, so there’s no way it’s even thinner than 1.8mm
hiepphotog wroteMathieu18 wroteI think it was found that going any stronger basically induced too much midzone dip to be worth it. Since the Nikon is a bit (0.2mm) thinner, it should show slightly more midzone dip and more corner correction, but I'm guessing it'll be slightly (very slightly) better than stock Sony. Part of the confusion is the early, incorrect reports that Nikon was close to 1mm of stack, which didn't account for the final, epoxied layer.
hiepphotog wroteInteresting since the front filter focal length was calculated using the thickness difference and other parameters. Well, I'm glad it doesn't matter as much then.I don't believe the stock Nikon's stack is only 0.2mm thinner than the stock Sony's. Kolari doesn't measure the sensor's clear glass cover but the rest glass stack they do: Nikon - 1.1mm, Canon 1.6mm and Sony 2mm. Assuming the sensor's clear glass cover thickness is the same (~0.9-1mm), it's still 0.9mm difference, which would explain the M performance better IMO. 0.2mm is too small.So it looks like Nikon is .5mm shaker, 1.1mm hot mirror, .7mm epoxied cover? Is that correct? And then Kolari just measured the 1.1mm hot mirror part.
So what the hell happened when Kolari measured the Nikon Z at 1.1 mm. Is it really 1.6 and they used the ruler wrong? It would seem it would be in their interest to see it as thicker rather than thinner so that people would be more likely want to replace it. I am kind of confused by the differences in measurement of the Nikon.
Steve Spencer wrote: realVivek wroteNo separate shaker glass from A7II onward. IBIS is the shaker. This is copied to the Zs.
Steve Spencer wroteMathieu18 wroteYea like Vivek said. Sony 0.5mm shaker, 1.3mm hot mirror, 0.7mm epoxied. And the 1.3mm hot mirror layer is actually a sandwiched hot mirror and AA filter.
I got the Nikon number from a well known blogger that talks to Nikon. He PM’d it to me so I don’t know that he wants it attributed to him but I believe it’s good info. Also, I tried a Loxia 35 on that 1.8mm modifies A7RII and it was a total mess outside the center. It’s not bad at all on a Nikon, better in the corners actually, so there’s no way it’s even thinner than 1.8mm
hiepphotog wroteMathieu18 wroteI think it was found that going any stronger basically induced too much midzone dip to be worth it. Since the Nikon is a bit (0.2mm) thinner, it should show slightly more midzone dip and more corner correction, but I'm guessing it'll be slightly (very slightly) better than stock Sony. Part of the confusion is the early, incorrect reports that Nikon was close to 1mm of stack, which didn't account for the final, epoxied layer.I don't believe the stock Nikon's stack is only 0.2mm thinner than the stock Sony's. Kolari doesn't measure the sensor's clear glass cover but the rest glass stack they do: Nikon - 1.1mm, Canon 1.6mm and Sony 2mm. Assuming the sensor's clear glass cover thickness is the same (~0.9-1mm), it's still 0.9mm difference, which would explain the M performance better IMO. 0.2mm is too small.So it looks like Nikon is .5mm shaker, 1.1mm hot mirror, .7mm epoxied cover? Is that correct? And then Kolari just measured the 1.1mm hot mirror part.So what the hell happened when Kolari measured the Nikon Z at 1.1 mm. Is it really 1.6 and they used the ruler wrong? It would seem it would be in their interest to see it as thicker rather than thinner so that people would be more likely want to replace it. I am kind of confused by the differences in measurement of the Nikon.
Tested the CG 28 with PCX today and found infinity issues wide open.
Shim removal now completed on the CG 21(1 Brass shim) & CG 28(2 Brass + 1 Copper shim).
Infinity(& beyond) focusing now works on the CG 21 without issue-thanks Matt.
No vignetting seen with the 55-52mm ring mounted directly on the CG 21.
On the CG 28, I still cannot attain infinity focus with the 1.5 PCX mounted in-spite of having removed the 3 shims. Would you have any advise or experience on that perhaps(Copper, Brass significance?)
Results with the CG 21 below post shim removal(RHS images are with 1.5 PCX)
What adapter? Removing all the shins always worked for me, but it’s possible with the PCX it’s still not quite enough. Maybe try flipping the PCX? IIRC, one way is a bit stronger. You’ll lose a bit of correction but if it gets infinity... worth a try.
I ask which adapter because the Techart seems to offer limited range of the lens, seemingly what it expects it needs to focus. On a mechanical adapter, you can take it to the lens’ physical stop and obtain infinity. But if you want AF, I realize that doesnt really help.
lsds wrote:
Tested the CG 28 with PCX today and found infinity issues wide open.
Shim removal now completed on the CG 21(1 Brass shim) & CG 28(2 Brass + 1 Copper shim).
Infinity(& beyond) focusing now works on the CG 21 without issue-thanks Matt.
No vignetting seen with the 55-52mm ring mounted directly on the CG 21.
On the CG 28, I still cannot attain infinity focus with the 1.5 PCX mounted in-spite of having removed the 3 shims. Would you have any advise or experience on that perhaps(Copper, Brass significance?)
Results with the CG 21 below post shim removal(RHS images are with 1.5 PCX)
Mathieu18 wrote:
What adapter? Removing all the shins always worked for me, but it’s possible with the PCX it’s still not quite enough. Maybe try flipping the PCX? IIRC, one way is a bit stronger. You’ll lose a bit of correction but if it gets infinity... worth a try.
I ask which adapter because the Techart seems to offer limited range of the lens, seemingly what it expects it needs to focus. On a mechanical adapter, you can take it to the lens’ physical stop and obtain infinity. But if you want AF, I realize that doesnt really help.
This is with the new FotoDiox(CG->NZ) manual adapter. I tried flipping the PCX and even moving it farther away(image magnification results) on the 28 but found no change to infinity focus. Without PCX, it focusses beyond infinity easily but once PCX is on, I see that midfield and center sharpness at infinity is suddenly lost.
Gotcha. No experience with the new Z adapters, used these on Sony’s previously. Just to verify, without any lens mounted, the Fotodiox spins endlessly, correct? No hard stops without a lens?
Another option if it’s simply adapter thickness, get a Sony E > Contax G adapter and Pixco makes a $15 E to Z adapter. Might get you there?
lsds wrote: Mathieu18 wroteWhat adapter? Removing all the shins always worked for me, but it’s possible with the PCX it’s still not quite enough. Maybe try flipping the PCX? IIRC, one way is a bit stronger. You’ll lose a bit of correction but if it gets infinity... worth a try.
I ask which adapter because the Techart seems to offer limited range of the lens, seemingly what it expects it needs to focus. On a mechanical adapter, you can take it to the lens’ physical stop and obtain infinity. But if you want AF, I realize that doesnt really help.This is with the new FotoDiox(CG->NZ) manual adapter. I tried flipping the PCX and even moving it farther away(image magnification results) on the 28 but found no change to infinity focus. Without PCX, it focusses beyond infinity easily but once PCX is on, I see that midfield and center sharpness at infinity is suddenly lost.
Mathieu18 wrote:
Gotcha. No experience with the new Z adapters, used these on Sony’s previously. Just to verify, without any lens mounted, the Fotodiox spins endlessly, correct? No hard stops without a lens?
Another option if it’s simply adapter thickness, get a Sony E > Contax G adapter and Pixco makes a $15 E to Z adapter. Might get you there?
Indeed, this Fotodiox adapter is completely manual with a free rotating wheel - no hard stops. Infinity focus now works perfectly though on the 21, 45 and 90. I have a replacement Fotodiox adapter coming in next week as this had a locking pin issue-perhaps an option?
Still waiting on my Techart TZE-01(Sony E> Nikon Z) stuck in customs to stack on the TA-GA3 but based on recent feedback, looks like it will be a long wait before an update to the TZE can get it working on the Zs with the Contax G.
I wonder whether the Pixco you suggest would be mountable on the TZE as a dumb adapter-will try that route next.
You mean Pixco and TA-GA3? Doubt it, TA-GA3 requires power to work, don't believe you'll be able to focus it.
Sorry the 28 isn't working, hope the new adapter works better!
lsds wrote: Mathieu18 wroteGotcha. No experience with the new Z adapters, used these on Sony’s previously. Just to verify, without any lens mounted, the Fotodiox spins endlessly, correct? No hard stops without a lens?
Another option if it’s simply adapter thickness, get a Sony E > Contax G adapter and Pixco makes a $15 E to Z adapter. Might get you there?Indeed, this Fotodiox adapter is completely manual with a free rotating wheel - no hard stops. Infinity focus now works perfectly though on the 21, 45 and 90. I have a replacement Fotodiox adapter coming in next week as this had a locking pin issue-perhaps an option?
Still waiting on my Techart TZE-01(Sony E> Nikon Z) stuck in customs to stack on the TA-GA3 but based on recent feedback, looks like it will be a long wait before an update to the TZE can get it working on the Zs with the Contax G.
I wonder whether the Pixco you suggest would be mountable on the TZE as a dumb adapter-will try that route next.
Mathieu18 wrote:
You mean Pixco and TA-GA3? Doubt it, TA-GA3 requires power to work, don't believe you'll be able to focus it.
Sorry the 28 isn't working, hope the new adapter works better!
Nope, the Pixco on the new Techart TZE(Nikon Z>Sony E). Not sure whether the TZE also requires power - would not assume so as it does not have a motor hence...
Thanks Matt. Except infinity, the CG 28 is showing great potential though - love the colors and rendering.
The Pixco is basically a TZE without contacts. It's the same as the Kipon Sony E to Nikon Z. So you wouldn't need both. But you might be able to stack that Pixco with a Sony E Contax G adapter (The TZE doesn't release shutter unless a device with contacts is recognized.)
Nice shots, I miss the G lenses and if they get the TA-GA3 AF adapter working on the TZE-01 I'll probably get another set...
lsds wrote: Mathieu18 wroteYou mean Pixco and TA-GA3? Doubt it, TA-GA3 requires power to work, don't believe you'll be able to focus it.
Sorry the 28 isn't working, hope the new adapter works better!Nope, the Pixco on the new Techart TZE(Nikon Z>Sony E). Not sure whether the TZE also requires power - would not assume so as it does not have a motor hence...
Thanks Matt. Except infinity, the CG 28 is showing great potential though - love the colors and rendering.
Mathieu18 wrote:
The Pixco is basically a TZE without contacts. It's the same as the Kipon Sony E to Nikon Z. So you wouldn't need both. But you might be able to stack that Pixco with a Sony E Contax G adapter (The TZE doesn't release shutter unless a device with contacts is recognized.)
Nice shots, I miss the G lenses and if they get the TA-GA3 AF adapter working on the TZE-01 I'll probably get another set...
Gotcha, probably will order the Pixco and a dumb E>CG adapter next.
Thanks- hope Techart gets that update in someday. The CG lens rendering and size most of all is a big revelation.Punch/contrast though takes a little getting used to especially if coming from the early mf Nikkor world.
Ha ha, yeah there’s a bit more contrast then the early Nikkors. I’ve got a set of metal scallop ring Non AI lenses. Love them for different reasons. The Loxia lenses are freaking awesome on the Zs as well.
lsds wrote: Mathieu18 wroteThe Pixco is basically a TZE without contacts. It's the same as the Kipon Sony E to Nikon Z. So you wouldn't need both. But you might be able to stack that Pixco with a Sony E Contax G adapter (The TZE doesn't release shutter unless a device with contacts is recognized.)
Nice shots, I miss the G lenses and if they get the TA-GA3 AF adapter working on the TZE-01 I'll probably get another set...Gotcha, probably will order the Pixco and a dumb E>CG adapter next.
Thanks- hope Techart gets that update in someday. The CG lens rendering and size most of all is a big revelation.Punch/contrast though takes a little getting used to especially if coming from the early mf Nikkor world.
100% crops from the G 21 tests(infinity focus now fixed) that indeed prove the pcx 1.5 corner improvements are working on the Nikon Z6.
Best results appear around f5.6 but in general the differences are considerable.
Original image:
full resolution here
lrealVivek wrote:
This seems like a new innovative solution. Vignette 1/3 rd of a frame to improve “corner” sharpness!
Saw similar results with pcx mounted within the 21 and no vignette. But then cannot do the tests changing pcx on-field. Not sure if vignette really helps..
Mathieu18 wrote:
Glad it’s working. Have to get yourself another PCX to fix the vignette and you’re good to go.
Did the new adapter help?
Adapter still on the way from FD USA.
Trying a 55 mm slim ring mount with felt spacer ring for the PCX that could ideally be used on both 28 & 21. If not I’ll then order another 1500 pcx. Based on early tests with the 28 & 21 and 1500 pcx, do you suggest testing with a different pcx FL other than 1.5m/1500 perhaps that could improve results?
What is the combination you are using to hold the PCX?
I'm using a 55-52 step down ring with the PCX 1500 held by 2 filter holder rings.
The filter holder rings were taken from a Tiffen 52mm UV filter, I think others have used the AmazonBasic 52mm uv filter.
The PCX is held as close to the inside as possible. I think the filter holder ring is screwed in like 1 rotation in to the 55-52 step down.
With this PCX assembly on the G21 used on A7III I don't see any added vignetting.
Initially I used a filter holder ring for the inner side and a 52-58 step up on the outer side to hold the PCX but this combination was introducing some vignetting.
On the G28 I have a 46-55 step up ring so I can swap the PCX assembly between the two.