Yes. In fact sometimes while shooting with strobes I shift on the fly to a high ISO, wide open aperture, adjust the color balance, and contniue shooting using the modeling lights as I would continous lighting. They basically are continous, but usually much lower in power than a typical continous light setup.
I don't know if all strobes turn off the modeling lights during the actual strobe firing, or if they are just left on and the strobe overpowers it. I would think that they are probably turned off, strobe fires, then they are turned back on again. Not sure if they have enough time to really quench the modeling lights or not. Anyone else know for sure?
This image was shot using only the modeling lights from a Hensel strobe steup with a Canon 1DMKII, 85mm f1.2 shot wide open, and at ISO 1600.
What about buying more 580ex units and mounting them on umbrellas? Anybody using something like that. I also have a Metz 60 ct-4 unit that I would like to incorporate if at all possible.
I do some sports shooting and will need another 580ex anyway.
I have 4 580EXs, two small stands, two umbrellas, 1 Xsmall and 1 small softbox, a set of pocket wizards, and an assortment of various mounts and grips. They are all in a small tripod case and act as my grab and go lighting kit. You can do wonders with a set of 580s and some light modifiers.
In answer to your question alixmiles, yes! It makes a nice light setup and works well. Maybe I'll start a thread to discuss a field setup like this rather than ramble on in the studio thread.
I bought my AB directly from the company. That was good tip about shooting with just the modeling lights. I want to use my 50mm 1.8 more, but the AB800s are too much to shoot at wide apertures.
I use the White Lightning strobes which have 250W modeling lights so I get pretty good light for shooting wide open with a reasonable shutter speed. I don't know what wattage the alien bees use for modeling lights, but they should be failry close, 150W or 250W.
I just measured the WL x1600 modeling light and I get 1/125th, f1.4, 800 ISO with the modeling light turned all the way up and fitted with a medium softbox and internal diffuser.
With the WL 1600s, I can really cut down the power to 1/128th, and that puts me in the ballpark of shooting at f1.4 as well. I just now measured the X800 at its lowest power setting, not quite as low as the 1600s, and its reading f2.8 in the same softbox setup as above. If I added say a bed sheet over the softbox, it would probably drop the light low enough to use 1.2 or 1.8 easily.
If you want to shoot with wide open apertures with your stobes (vs modeling lights), measure it lowest setting. If its not enough, add distance between your subject and strobe, add more diffusion between them, or do a little of both. Having too much power is easy to resolve, but not having enough is a bitch
Yeah, in the past I've resorted to ND filters to cut back the light. I have 150w modeling lights in my ABs. I'm going to play around and see what I can do.
I have a stack of 1-stop ND gels that I pile up in front of my strobes when I want to shoot wide open and lowest power isn't low enough. 10$ for a roll of ND gel, a pair of scissors to cut them to size, and a few black document clamps to hold them on is all you need.
When I shoot like that I turn off the modeling lights once my setup is done to avoide melting the gels.
Well, after some REALLY good advice on high-key lighting from some of you, I decided to overtake the family room, invite a few friends over, and have a go at doing it "right".
