I think that the order you used would have had your camera's custom WB compensate for the green cast. My understanding is that you shoot your WB shot under the exact conditions you are about to shoot your pics in.
No post-processing with color temp or color balance afterwards?
Jorge
I did not post process at all. Those appear just as they came out of the camera.
A few days later I took the same shots though I rearranged the steps a little bit.
1. meter reading.
2. Set white balance using white paper.
3. place backdrop and item to be shot.
4. look in wonder at my amazing photograph saying to myself, "Dale, you are a genius"
In the first pictures the cloth background is very saturated, much more so than the actual cloth I used. Also, there is a defenite cast on the brushed metal parts of the Camera (subject).
In the second set I shot using the steps above everything was perfect. The cloth is nearly exact match. The brushed aluminum appears natural and uncolored.
Unfortunately I just sent my camera away to be cleaned (I had a ton of schmutz on the sensor) so I will not be able to experiment for a couple weeks.
In the meantime, though, I have more accessories to make for my light tent.
-I am going to sew another piece of ripstop to velcro to the front that has a slit in it for the lens to pass through. Depending on orientation I will have full vertical movement or full horizontal movement.
-More backgrounds to sew - Red, Black, White, Blue, and a couple textured. These are actually going to velcro on to the support frame.
-A storage bag for the whole thing to fit in all nice and neat.
I am a bit of an insomniac at times so I invent these projects to do around the house.
ketamine wrote:
Hey Craig I think those shots look great. I would love to know the tips you got to improve on those (as long as it not "get more lights". I'm trying to get a hang of studio lighting myself.
I was told to get 2 more of the 4x8 boards, tape 2 of them together to form a "V"...put the light in the "V" shooting out and towards backdrop (point of the V towards me, open end towards background) one side light real high and pointed down, other real low pointed up-this was to help my depth problem and keep light from spilling out....I guess I could do the black curtains like John E's studio is too
I just need to try some stuff, but always pressed for time. Now I gotta find some models to shoot my next shipment of clothes-pro models would be great, then I could use heads with some cool expressions...but beggars cant be choosers.
I don't have my own studio as of yet, but I work in a theatre, and transform the space temporarily into a studio. We did some table top shooting for a photo club, and this was the setup. the area on the left is setup with Ascor strobes, and the area on the right was incadescent lit with Sourcefour fixtures.
The background paper in the shot got torn, and I replaced it with new stuff - which was very much required, anyhow.... we did another shoot recently, and there is a sample image in my gallery...[url=]http://www.beachphotogallery.com/album15/rose_tall[/url]
stiksandstones,
You did an awesome job! This is the exact look I want for my senior shots!
I tell my husband he needs more width and depth too, don't feel bad
Great job!
The strobes I have are those in the picture + a couple of old hotshoe flashes with optical triggers.
As modifiers I have:
.2 white umbrellas
.2 cheap 'ebay-style' softboxes (60*90cm & 70*120cm)
.5in1 80cm reflector
This is by far the best thread I have ever read on any photography forum to date. I am an amateur photographer very much in the learning process and I must say that the things I have read here are trully inspiring and motivating. Thank you all so much for all the useful information. At this time I have no lighting except for an EX420 flash. I have so many ideas now that I am not really sure what exactly I need to purchase. I will continue to follow this thread and when I am ready for purchase I will have a few questions for you guys. Now I am off the experiment with lighting from various sources I have here at home.
Thanks for great info... I can't believe I've read the whole thread!
It helped me tremendously with my small studio setup. Also works on JohnE and some other authors are really made me want to learn and try...
I went with Alienbees 400x1 and 800x2 and I'm very pleased with quality of the units and materials. Those guys really know how to make a good product.
My first question on this forum will be... What power settings you use with Alienbees units in tight spaces? My big softbox and umbrellas are 3 to 7-8 feer from the model and after my first test, I can't go lower than F13-16 with two AB800 on half power (i.e. middle of the scale). What Canon lenses, appertures, speed, AB power settings and distance of them from model you'd averagely use? In most pictures units seem quite close to models.
Also it would be nice to know lens model and settings, distance of camera from the models, and frame info from JohnE's pics of Dianamaria and Heather
The strobes I have are those in the picture + a couple of old hotshoe flashes with optical triggers.
As modifiers I have:
.2 white umbrellas
.2 cheap 'ebay-style' softboxes (60*90cm & 70*120cm)
.5in1 80cm reflector
All the 'studio' cost me less than 500€!
It's nothing 'pro' but I have a lot of fun with this stuff!
This is another example of the excellent quality of work that can be achieved without having the best of equipment.
OK guys, here's what I have been working with so far. I almost feel ashamed of myself for posting here but what the hell. I will follow with some resulting shots I have.
JohnE, when you meter do you meter for the background or for the main subject and what exposure did you say you always shoot at?
Michael_Sexton wrote:
OK guys, here's what I have been working with so far. I almost feel ashamed of myself for posting here but what the hell. I will follow with some resulting shots I have.
JohnE, when you meter do you meter for the background or for the main subject and what exposure did you say you always shoot at?
Michael,
I meter each light individually, but set my main to be F11@1/250.
Vlad_10D wrote:
Thanks for great info... I can't believe I've read the whole thread!
My first question on this forum will be... What power settings you use with Alienbees units in tight spaces? My big softbox and umbrellas are 3 to 7-8 feer from the model and after my first test, I can't go lower than F13-16 with two AB800 on half power (i.e. middle of the scale). What Canon lenses, appertures, speed, AB power settings and distance of them from model you'd averagely use? In most pictures units seem quite close to models.
Also it would be nice to know lens model and settings, distance of camera from the models, and frame info from JohnE's pics of Dianamaria and Heather
Thanks a lot...Show more →
I typically place my main light (softbox or Octodome) within 3-6 ft of the model and I keep the model a good 6 ft from the background. My AB1600 is usually set at about 30% of total. I typically use Canon's 24-70, usually keeping it at or above 50mm (I'm 6-12 ft from the model) at F11@1//250, ISO100 and always shoot in Raw mode.
JohnE, do you use a light meter such as the Sekonic L-358. I am considering purchasing one of these but I don't know if it's worth the money or not, atleast for me. Will I see a big difference if I use such an instrument? Every photo I take I feel as though the exposure is lacking at some point somewhere.
Thanks for the reply earlier and I appreciate people such as yourself who are considerate and willing help the needy.
Well, I am very excited. I'm about to purchase a house with two two car garages (yes that's two, two car garages). One is attached, and one is detached. Right now, I am debating whether to put the studio in the attached one, or the detached one.
The advantage of the attached one is that all the ammenities (namely the bathroom) are not far away, and not across an outside path.
The advantage of the detached one is that I will be able to start working on remodeling it sooner (I can't move into the house until July 1st, but I will have access to the detached garage by the end of the month.
This is my setup.
This building is located attached to my house (connected by a large serre).
Normally make up is done in this serre.
It has slightly changed from what is seen on this photo's, where the bed is standing there is now also a second setup with 3 paper colors.
And the first setup is now filled with 3 colors, also the top has a setup which will make the whites run up to the ceiling.
JohnE wrote:
Yes, they really are 8' 6" ceilings... so I use short models (Kortney is 5' 3" and Heather is 5' 6" (so the ceiling is 3' overhead.)
John
Hi John !
Thks for your response on that one.
I've canceled the garage plans since.
{I would prefer a new house at this stage +wink+}
Have another question though about your picture and the over head hair light.
I've found that mine seems to over-heat and shut itself off in that position so I open up some of the flaps in the half dome. Same problem. So next time I reduced he modelling lamp and it still over-heated ? Since the modelling lamp isn't all that important for a hair light I've decided to turn it off next time around.
Just curious, have you had this type of problem with the overhead half dome ?
Thks !
