bobbytan wrote:
Just snatched one on Amazon in "Used - Like New" condition for $25. You snooze and you lose.
Some of the chinese brackets feel pretty cheap but the Sunwayfoto products have always been really high quality in my experience. Not up to the standard of RRS, but very solid.
whumber wrote:
Gear Menu-->A2--> [AF Point Icon] Custom Settings --> Set 1/2 --> Change the dials to move the AF points.
Whumber and gary, thanks for this. Tried it and so far like it much better than thumb-stabbing at those tiny arrow pads. Next best thing to a joystick, IMO.
The bottom plate of the eBay version is not as long and it's not of the anti-twist type, and the quality is probably not as good as Sunwayfoto. But it's good to see you can get one as cheap as $8 and as much as $225. Bottom line is you get what you pay for although the price/quality ratio is not linear.
Edit: On second thoughts, maybe a 3" base plate works better than a 4" base plate - as the 4" one will definitely block the battery door - so you will have to remove the plate each time you replace the battery.
I got a $6 (including shipping) el cheapo L-bracket for the Mark I specifically designed for the camera, and the quality was surprisingly good. Considering that I wasn't going to mount a Sinar on it, WAY more than strong enough. I'll wait until a fitted version is available for the Mark II, and I'll go as high as $9.
It would be nice to buy American, but when it's something I might use three times a year I can't justify the cost.
I agree. I was using Acratech ballheads and RRS L-plates until the generic plates came along which are about 75% as good with 100% functionality, for only a fraction of the price.
Bob Kane wrote:
I got a $6 (including shipping) el cheapo L-bracket for the Mark I specifically designed for the camera, and the quality was surprisingly good. Considering that I wasn't going to mount a Sinar on it, WAY more than strong enough. I'll wait until a fitted version is available for the Mark II, and I'll go as high as $9.
It would be nice to buy American, but when it's something I might use three times a year I can't justify the cost.
Day 5 for misty rain, that's 10 days of the last 14 with two days of Sun coming and then 5-6 more days of rain. Isn't it nice living in a rain forest!
Anyway still learning the new OMD-
Looks a little soft. Shutter speed and/or light level too low?
MedicineMan404 wrote:
Day 5 for misty rain, that's 10 days of the last 14 with two days of Sun coming and then 5-6 more days of rain. Isn't it nice living in a rain forest!
Anyway still learning the new OMD-
Ooops, forgot the EXIF for you pixel types-
Olympus E-M1MarkII
LEICA DG 100-400/F4.0-6.3
ƒ/5.6 280.0 mm 1/200 1600 Flash (off, did not fire)
Although this article is about Setting, Configuring and Customizing your E-M1, most of what's written would also apply to the Mk II. It's a good addendum to your Mk II's instruction manual. There is a link where you can download the PDF version.
MedicineMan404 wrote:
Day 5 for misty rain, that's 10 days of the last 14 with two days of Sun coming and then 5-6 more days of rain. Isn't it nice living in a rain forest!
Anyway still learning the new OMD-
Ooops, forgot the EXIF for you pixel types-
Olympus E-M1MarkII
LEICA DG 100-400/F4.0-6.3
ƒ/5.6 280.0 mm 1/200 1600 Flash (off, did not fire)
Shutter speed was too slow to freeze the movement of the head & upper body.
Or, if you had shot the bird too quickly, you may not have noticed that the camera had focussed on the rear end of the bird because of the higher contrast.
Imagemaster wrote:
Shutter speed was too slow to freeze the movement of the head & upper body.
No excuses for the soft shot.
But my first time trying to use a very low shutter/low ISO and get the benefits of the Oly IBIS. Can't remember
shooting anything that slow before unless it was the Milky Way.
Bobby, soft from shutter speed?
Thanks Imagemaster.
Well at least I'm trying even in the crap weather.
Tomorrow supposed to have full Sun and I bet no birds will be around
