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New macro shooters Post pics here .

  
 
misterboxhead
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p.23 #1 · New macro shooters Post pics here .


Just getting back into photography, some shots from the past few months!

Pencils by Mister Boxhead, on Flickr

@work, @play by Mister Boxhead, on Flickr

Funky Fruit by Mister Boxhead, on Flickr

Whispy Flowers by Mister Boxhead, on Flickr



Dec 13, 2025 at 10:36 AM
CharleyL
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p.23 #2 · New macro shooters Post pics here .


Nice shots !

We are neighbors. Well, sort of. I'm in Kannapolis.

Charley



Dec 18, 2025 at 08:33 AM
misterboxhead
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p.23 #3 · New macro shooters Post pics here .


CharleyL wrote:
Nice shots !

We are neighbors. Well, sort of. I'm in Kannapolis.

Charley


Thanks Charley, I'm closer to you than I am to Charlotte!



Dec 19, 2025 at 04:55 PM
CharleyL
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p.23 #4 · New macro shooters Post pics here .


@misterboxhead,

I sent you a PM (Private Message). Click on the Note (Cartoon-Like bubble) top right.

CharleyL



Dec 19, 2025 at 09:38 PM
misterboxhead
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p.23 #5 · New macro shooters Post pics here .


Got it, but can't reply due to not enough posts - off to the Canon forum to get some feedback on a few lenses I have my eye on!


Dec 20, 2025 at 02:40 PM
CharleyL
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p.23 #6 · New macro shooters Post pics here .


@misterboxhead,

Sorry, I wasn't watching your post count. Welcome aboard.

You will get there quickly. Just say "Hi" to me a few times.

I too am a Canon User. Well, that's what I am using now. Over the years I think I have owned all of the popular brands at one time or another. I think I like the Canon best, but still using DSLR. They just fit me and feel better in my hands, though any popular brand takes great pictures these days. My cameras were all replaced within the last 4 years, so I won't likely be getting mirrorless or any other new camera very soon. No budget for more new cameras right now. I now, finally have a studio (last 5 1/2 years) but have been taking pictures since about 1952.

Some of my recent work attached -

Charley







Dec 21, 2025 at 11:00 AM
Alessandro67
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p.23 #7 · New macro shooters Post pics here .


Hi all, I'm new in this forum, i have only now seen this section.
I saw very beautiful shots here, congratulation to all!
I post my contribute.

?s=eyJpIjo1MDczOTYzNzY4MywiZSI6MTc2NjQwMzk5MiwicyI6IjZmZjQ1MjVjMjUzZDI5NDI1MDdiYjAxZWNiM2RjNzFjOTBiMzA0ZjYiLCJ2IjoxfQ">Focus Stacking - Anemone by Alessandro Signorini, su Flickr

Alessandro



Dec 22, 2025 at 05:55 AM
CharleyL
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p.23 #8 · New macro shooters Post pics here .


@Alessandro67,

A very nice shot. My personal taste would have it a bit brighter, but very well done and likely perfect for you. Thanks for posting it.

I can see that you like taking the inverse square law of light to your advantage. This is the kind of photo shoot that I have been doing lately when my studio isn't being used for anything else. I stay busy experimenting with light and the inverse square law too.

Charley



Dec 23, 2025 at 11:33 AM
misterboxhead
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p.23 #9 · New macro shooters Post pics here .


CharleyL wrote:
I now, finally have a studio (last 5 1/2 years) but have been taking pictures since about 1952.


Charley, is your studio something that you DIY'ed? I've been looking at some macro backdrops to have around the house when the weather is bad outside.



Dec 23, 2025 at 01:59 PM
Alessandro67
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p.23 #10 · New macro shooters Post pics here .


CharleyL wrote:
@Alessandro67@,

A very nice shot. My personal taste would have it a bit brighter, but very well done and likely perfect for you. Thanks for posting it.

I can see that you like taking the inverse square law of light to your advantage. This is the kind of photo shoot that I have been doing lately when my studio isn't being used for anything else. I stay busy experimenting with light and the inverse square law too.

Charley


Thank you Charley, have a good light.




Dec 23, 2025 at 04:04 PM
 


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CharleyL
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p.23 #11 · New macro shooters Post pics here .


@misterboxhead,

Yes, I've wanted a studio of my own for my whole adult life, but my paying job requirements (Automation Engineer-(EE) and the cost of raising 4 kids made it impossible, until about 5 1/2 years ago. After High School Graduation I worked that Summer as the stage manager (one man everything, but with a helper) for an Off Broadway Summer Theater, and used the stage with all of the curtains closed a few times as my studio, and rented a studio for a few times, but I never actually owned my own studio, until I built this one. It's in what was a second master bedroom suite, upstairs in my home. There is another slightly smaller master bedroom suite downstairs, which we use for our bedroom. This upstairs room is small when compared to most studio photo/video studios at 19 X 26' but quite large for what it once was. The upstairs hallway is large too, so it's now the hair/makeup/break area. Well at least where the drinks and snacks are located. The actual breaks always seem to end up in the shooting room (former master bedroom). There is a walk-in gear closet, and at present a partially finished bathroom off the shooting room through doors behind the camera. Another very long closet is off the hallway, but it's mostly storage for family needs. My biggest limitation has been the ceiling height, which is eight foot. Ten or twelve foot ceilings would be great, but cost prohibitive, since the roof is directly above and a complete roof restructure would be required. So I'm "making do" with what I have.

I'm very retired now, having "retired" five times, as each new job offered after my first retirement was either something that I have "always wanted to do", or that paid way more and with better benefits, making them too good to refuse. When the last of my children moved out to start a life of their own, I realized that this, now empty, very large master bedroom suite could make a small, but acceptable, photo/video studio, so I set about designing and fitting out this space to become my long desired studio.

I wanted to be able to provide pro level photo and video capability for my family and close friends, as well as a place for me to experiment with new lighting ideas and kinds of photography that I have done very little of previously. Still Life, and Macro were two of these. While my kids were growing and my photo budget was very tight, I was using my living room as a studio whenever the need arose. I would push the furniture aside, drag my photo gear out of the back of a closet, use an ironed bed sheet as a backdrop, and shoot away, but then after only a few hours I would have to return everything to normal again and pack the photo gear back in the closet "Until The Next Time". Trying to get good results for "Still Life" and "Macro" shoots in the film days was very difficult to do when I couldn't see the results of the shots for several days, yet had to pack everything up and put all the gear back in the closet and return the living room to it's more normal arrangement, so the kids could access the TV again. This made "Still Life" and "Macro" shoots indoors nearly impossible. Now, I can see the results almost instantly with digital cameras, and try again, or leave everything set up so I can return tomorrow or the next day and try again, exactly from where I left off. This is the true benefit of having a dedicated photo/video studio in my home.

For safety, minimizing studio trip hazards was very high in my studio design requirements, and I thought a lot about this before starting to build my studio. Tripod light stands, camera tripods, and cables running around on the studio floor, and needing to work in the dark, or nearly so, and my walking abilities at my age (now 83) required that I come up with a design that would minimize or best, eliminate these hazards somehow. So I built a ceiling lighting support system attached to the studio ceiling that's 10' wide and about 22' long. I added power strips on the ceiling running both sides of this ceiling lighting support grid so there would be an minimum need for power cables on the floor. Even when a light is on a light stand below, power can come from above it within 5' of wherever the light needs to be located on the stand below or when hung from the ceiling lighting support grid. It was built using 1 X 1 X 1/4" steel angle and I spaced it down about 4" from the ceiling. There are 5 steel angles spaced about 4' apart running parallel with the backdrop system. Using 5' long pieces of this same steel angle, I can bridge between any two of these 10' steel angles, so I can hang a light almost anywhere from the ceiling grid. I use "Electricians Beam Clamps", a sort-of small C-Clamp" with two 1/4-20 or 3/8-16 threaded holes at 90 deg to each other, and a 5/16 bolt that secures this little C-Clamp to the steel angles at any position desired. Two of these "Beam Clamps" bolted together let me attach the 5' long angles to the 10' long steel angles to secure them, with the 5' angles positioned above the 10' angles so if it does some loose, it won't fall.

I also use one of these Electrician's Beam Clamps to hang a light from one of these steel angles. I modified my tripod light stands, so each now has a 1/4-20 threaded stud hanging out of the bottom of the center column of each light stand. A snug fitting piece of wood with a 1/4" center hole was epoxied into the bottom of the light stand center column and then a 1/4 X 1 1/2" Hanger Bolt (a no headed bolt with 1/4-20 threads on 1/2 and wood lag screw type threads on the other, screwed into the center hole of the wood until only about 1/4" of it's length is exposed. I can attach the light stand "Upside Down" to the ceiling grid and extend the light stand legs up against the studio ceiling for stability. Then I attach the light in the usual way, but upside down, to the light stand. Power for the light comes from above within 5' of anywhere on the grid that the light is hung.

Even my tether cable runs along this ceiling grid to a point over my usual shooting position, with enough slack to allow free movement around the camera half of the room. When carrying the camera, the tether cable rarely touches the floor. The computer end of the tether cable drops down to my computer, located on a computer table in the corner, camera right, in the studio. For anything hanging from this ceiling lighting support grid, I always use a loop of safety chain around a sturdy part of the light and up over the ceiling grid. I never trust the "Spigot design" of the light to light stand connection, since if this connection should fail, the light will never fall to hit someone or the floor.

I now have a 10' wide powered backdrop system that holds six 10' wide backdrops. It is operated by a wireless remote at the camera stand or the camera tripod. I can change backdrops during a portrait shoot without the model knowing that I did it, until they see the shots. I have a 60" Smart TV on the wall above my computer that's connected to the computer as a 2nd monitor. When I take a portrait shot of someone, they see the shot on this TV within about 8 seconds, and it only takes a few shots before they significantly improve their own poses.

For video work I wanted a near shadow free stage area, so I have eight LED Light Panels attached to the ceiling lighting grid in a kind-of wide leg "U" shape. Most of the videos made so far have been "Videomercials" about 15 minutes long about health foods. These LED light panels were positioned as close to the ceiling as I could get them, so I can leave them in place while using the studio for portrait, still life or macro shoots. I can set up lights with 32" soft boxes on light stands or the ceiling grid, below the ceiling mounted LED Panels, so these panels can remain in place during other types of photo shoots. I have a wireless control at the camera location that lets me power up each type of lighting, whether it is on the ceiling grid or on light stands, so I rarely need to climb ladders for working on/with the ceiling attached lights, making change over from one type of shoot to another very easy and relatively quick.

I am constantly refining my studio, but it's not happening as often now, as in the past. I have 9 studio strobe lights, 8 LED light panels (soon maybe 10) , 2 Studio constant lights, various props, etc., and keep adding as I find that I need something that I don't have. I did add three Godox AD200 lights to my field kit in the last several months, though. It had 5 speedlites in the kit before these, but one is still in the camera bag, just in case I need an "on camera" light. I like the AD200 lights, but they are not good for hot shoe mounting.

Attached is a shot (not the greatest and out of focus (from 20 yo digital camera.) of one of my light stands and a studio strobe attached to my ceiling lighting grid with power coming from the above outlets on the ceiling. I hang my soft boxes on hooks along the North wall of the studio when not using them. I have others that I don't use often, that are collapsed and stored in the gear closet (wall not big enough for all).

Charley









Dec 24, 2025 at 09:30 AM
misterboxhead
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p.23 #12 · New macro shooters Post pics here .


@CharleyL

That is one crazy setup!

Sorry I couldn't get back to you sooner due to the holidays and a personal trip out-of-state this last week.

I just picked up a used M4/3 camera body and lenses to work along with my Canon FF so I'm slowly figuring out these new camera settings which hasn't been going so well. I'm hoping the M4/3 crop factor and lenses will be better suited for the style of macro photography I want to accomplish.

PS - My better half would kill me if I attempted to convert over one of our spare rooms into a studio - She's given up on the garage at least!




Jan 11, 2026 at 09:02 AM
CharleyL
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p.23 #13 · New macro shooters Post pics here .


You can see some of the ceiling grid in my photo. There are five 10 foot long pieces of 1 X 1 X 1/4" angle spaced about 4 foot apart and running parallel with the backdrop system. Each end of these has a 1/2" X 4" steel pipe nipple welded to it in an L orientation. The ends of these are threaded into 1/2" Floor Flanges (that's what they call them) that then attach via wood screws into 12" wide strips of 3/4" plywood running on the ceiling from the wall behind the backdrops all the way to the back wall of the studio about 10' apart. These are impact screwed into each ceiling beam that crosses above them in the sheetrock ceiling. The ceiling beams run parallel with the steel angles and not in the needed positions, so these plywood strips were added to the ceiling to spread the weight of each angle. across several ceiling beams.

To allow hanging lights in any position between two of these ten foot long angles, I use five foot long pieces of this same angle to bridge between the ten foot pieces. These can be anywhere needed, and at angles like can be seen in the photo. These allow me to hang a light or something else just about anywhere on the ceiling grid that I wish. I use two Electricians Beam Clamps bolted together back to back at each crossing of the angles to tie one angle to the other. An Electrician's Beam Clamp is a small sort-of "C"-clamp with a bolt to secure it to the beam (angle) and they are available everywhere that they sell electrical conduit and hardware. These have a 1/4-20 threaded hole in their back, and another in the side opposite the bolt. These holes become attachment points. Bolting two of these together then allows each pair to join the 5' long angle to be attached to the 10 foot angle. I have a box/open wrench attached to a badge lanyard that I attach to my wrist when working on the ceiling grid. This keeps me from dropping the wrench to the floor. The open end of the wrench fits the square heads of these beam clamp bolts. The lanyard idea has saved many trips up and down the ladder, as the wrench remains with me. I learned to do this when working on boats, especially over deep water.

I modified all of my tripod light stands so they can hang upside down from my ceiling grid. Each now has a 1 1/2" long piece of wood dowel epoxied into the bottom of it's center column with a hole in it's center to accept a 1/4" X 2" Hanger bolt wood thread. A hangar bolt has no head. There is wood screw thread on one half, and in this case 1/4-20 thread on the other end. I screw these into the wood until about 1/4-3/8" of the machine thread is exposed below the bottom end of the light stand center column.
I have several lengths of Baby Pins, and two sizes of tripod light stands that now have 1/4-20 machine threaded studs protruding from their bottom ends. The light stand heights adjust up and down the same.

When I want a light higher than my short light stands, I use the Baby Pins instead of light stands to get the desired drop from the ceiling grid needed to position lights higher than a short light stand allows. A Baby Pin is a 5/8 diameter steel pin with a spigot (light attachment point) on one end and a 1/4-20 threaded stud sticking out of the other (so equal to use of a light stand, but shorter). Baby Pins are available in different lengths for use with the heavy duty C-Stands (studio light stands). Many don't have the 1/4-20 hole/stud in the bottom, but the one that I bought do, and this is necessary for using them as I do when hanging lights, etc. from my ceiling lighting support grid. Electricians Beam Clamps are available with 3/8-16 threaded holes instead of the 1/4-20, so some of them will allow heavier pieces to be hung from above too.

I have also set up some of my 1/4-20 Beam Clamps with cold shoes pre-attached, and some with lighting spigots pre-attached, so when I need these I have a few all assembled and ready to use.

I attached a plastic basket to hang under the top handle of my 3 step platform ladder using ball bungees to attach it, and use this basket to hold a variety of this hardware for working on the ceiling grid. The hand holes on each end were the attachment point. I can slide the basket forward and back the length of the hand hole in the basket. Sometimes moving it forward gets it out of my way, and sometimes sliding it back is more desired.

Past the ends of the 10 foot angles I attached Wiremold Electric outlet strips to the plywood on the ceiling. With it running along both sides of the grid there is a power outlet every 6" from the back wall all the way to the backdrops. This gets me power within 5 foot of anywhere that I choose to hang a light or place a light on a floor stand on the floor somewhere below. There is almost never a power cable on my studio floor and rarely a tripod light stand on the floor as well, making my studio a much safer place.

The only cable that might touch the floor is my tether cable, but it is routed up and across my ceiling grid and hangs down with enough slack to let me move around the camera half of my studio easily. It does touch the floor occasionally, but not for enough distance to be much of a trip hazard. I have an extension for it should I ever need it.

My laptop computer is usually on a computer table in my studio back corner camera right. The tether cable drops down the wall to it.

I have a small Husky rolling toolbox on casters with brakes. I rarely use the brakes, but keep it to my left and near where I'm standing with the camera. There is a power cord from it to outlets on my studio wall camera left. I have a small gooseneck LED desk light on this toolbox top and two double battery chargers, one for each size battery that I use for the Canon cameras. There is also a wireless remote control light switch attached to this toolbox that allows me to turn the room ceiling light (my work light) on and off. There is another one of these remote switches attached to each of my camera stands, one at my laptop computer, and one located at the entrance door to the studio where the original wall switch had been located. The ability to turn this light off, then back on during a shoot without needing to move around in the dark, is a significant safety feature. I usually try to keep my F-Stop setting just high enough to keep the Work Light from affecting my shots and then leave it on during the shoot. F-8 is the usual setting for most of my work. One Stop above a totally black "Test shot" with no flash, is usually all that is necessary. If I need a lower F-Stop for the shots, I then turn the Work Light off for the shots, and then back on again before moving around and then use the lower F-Stop required for the shots.

This style DIY ceiling lighting support grid is far cheaper than any of the commercially available versions, sometime a little slower to move things around, but very helpful to have in a small studio where trip hazards from cabling and tripod light stands can make the studio quite treacherous.
I use loops of small chain with spring hooks to secure the lights to the ceiling grid for safety too. Hanging a light from a spigot has fall potential, as only a small shoulder prevents the light from falling, should the one attachment bolt or the beam clamp loosen. Studio strobe lights are expensive. Medical bills because someone was hit with a falling light are far more expensive. If you build a ceiling grid, make certain that nothing can ever fall from it to the floor.

Charley




Jan 12, 2026 at 10:34 PM
misterboxhead
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p.23 #14 · New macro shooters Post pics here .


I've been playing around with my E-M1X /w the 12-40mm Pro II over the weekend

geared, part deux by Mister Boxhead, on Flickr



Jan 13, 2026 at 08:38 AM
Bruce Marriner
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p.23 #15 · New macro shooters Post pics here .


Hi I'm new here and also new to taking macro photos. I am not totally new to taking photos in general though.

I just recently got the OM 90mm macro lens, Godox 860, and AK Diffuser to go with my OM1 and here's a handful of the images I've taken in the last few days that I've had this combo.

These first few are a few single grains of sand that I stole from my kids terrariums. Then I found a marble that I toyed with, not really "macro" but I thought it was neat, especially the tiny bit of fuzz or whatever that pokes off it's upper left side. The next 2 I took while walking around a local park. It's cold out so I was happily surprised to find a couple insects














































Jan 13, 2026 at 02:41 PM
RWNPhoto
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p.23 #16 · New macro shooters Post pics here .


OM does macro well.


Jan 13, 2026 at 07:58 PM
Treedog
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p.23 #17 · New macro shooters Post pics here .


Bruce Marriner wrote:
Hi I'm new here and also new to taking macro photos. I am not totally new to taking photos in general though.


Great shots Bruce. That marble looks like a jawbreaker. Cheers.




May 28, 2026 at 08:39 PM
Bruce Marriner
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p.23 #18 · New macro shooters Post pics here .


Treedog wrote:
Great shots Bruce. That marble looks like a jawbreaker. Cheers.



Thanks! I need to get out with that lens some now that it's warmed up and there's more interesting things growing and crawling about outside. That marble does look like it should taste good!



May 28, 2026 at 10:36 PM
rico
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p.23 #19 · New macro shooters Post pics here .


First time posting to this forum. I don't shoot macro as such, just studio images taken very close. Here are four from a bunch of decorative kitchen tiles I commissioned with a local artist. Each one is unique:



Change of lighting and lens:



A7ii, TS-E 135L, 500D diopter, studio strobe. That gives 1:1 before cropping to about 3:1



May 31, 2026 at 02:09 AM
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