Joe, you motivated me to grab my V-2 my Ft-1 and 70-200 2.8 v2. Shot a field hockey game and found most of my images were OOF. I was using continuous focus, single point, both 5fps and 15 fps. looks like they are back focusing. Do you have better luck with the 70-300 CX glass or using the Ft-1 and normal lens? Checking the FT-1 manual it says that Aperture, shutter and manual priority may not get in focus images?? What am I missing? Is the v-3 better? I like the idea of using the faster FPS on goalie shots and shooters. Any experience with fast moving subjects at the Ft-1? thanks
amlsml wrote:
Joe, you motivated me to grab my V-2 my Ft-1 and 70-200 2.8 v2. Shot a field hockey game and found most of my images were OOF. I was using continuous focus, single point, both 5fps and 15 fps. looks like they are back focusing. Do you have better luck with the 70-300 CX glass or using the Ft-1 and normal lens? Checking the FT-1 manual it says that Aperture, shutter and manual priority may not get in focus images?? What am I missing? Is the v-3 better? I like the idea of using the faster FPS on goalie shots and shooters. Any experience with fast moving subjects at the Ft-1? thanks...Show more →
Hmm. Sorry for asking but is firmware updated on the V2 and Ft1?
I try to shoot wide open at 5.6 and I thought background was blurred pretty well. To get more blur would need the ft1 adapter and a faster FX lens such as the 300 f4 or 400 f2.8 for example. But then limited to center point only for focusing.
that is what I wonder, whether ultimately the FX lens will outperform the other Nikon lenses or not.
The long fast lenses are out of the question due to price range, remains the 300/4 or the 70-300 VR
for comparison here are some done with the v1 and Nikon 70-300 VR with FT-1 converter.
Focusing is not very fast, but results are decent, although your images look somewhat better, it is hard to compare though.
Thank you for answering my questions. What I don’t like about the V3 is the shutter is too mushy. Sometimes I’m not sure if I’ve taken the shot especially in silent mode.
ok, I know what you mean from the v1, so this ist not improved. Too bad.
Might want to ask others to chime in regarding video.
Any one any thoughts on how this combo works for video?
Also, just want to re-emphasize this setup is best suited for good light and low ISO. The sensor is prone to noise particularly in shadows. For bird feather details I would hesitate using this in poor light or at high ISO. Here’s an example of a shot this morning. Taken somewhat into the sun at ISO 400. Had to apply noise reduction in Lightroom but it still persists. Hope this helps.
