p.103 #1 · Sony A7 and A7r Full Frame with Canon Lenses
efgm wrote:
Please be aware that this may not be the best solution as this particular paper has fibres that come off and it will pollute your sensor. Use at your own risk. It's a bit ridiculous that a lot of adapters, some of which are very expensive (even those that are are black) are causing internal reflections and sensor flare in this way.
I've just ordered some Protostar flocking paper which is commonly used to line the inside of telescopes. It's reported to not shed any fibers.
p.103 #2 · Sony A7 and A7r Full Frame with Canon Lenses
artd wrote:
I've just ordered some Protostar flocking paper which is commonly used to line the inside of telescopes. It's reported to not shed any fibers.
I have not seen the Edmund paper, but from what I've read about it, it sounds similar. Have you used it and found it to shed?
The clear packaging alone of the Edmund paper has lots of stray fibers, a light brush vacuum might get rid of stray fibers, but weaken others so that any subsequent wear and tear will cause a problem.
Protostar light trap material doesn't shed on your optics. This sounds better, but would an adhesive tape test show any fibers? The Edmund paper has fibers come off even with adhesive tape lightly applied.
p.103 #3 · Sony A7 and A7r Full Frame with Canon Lenses
efgm wrote:
Please be aware that this may not be the best solution as this particular paper has fibres that come off and it will pollute your sensor. Use at your own risk. It's a bit ridiculous that a lot of adapters, some of which are very expensive (even those that are are black) are causing internal reflections and sensor flare in this way.
I've tested different papers and found the edmund paper to be the best one.
However you are right. There are a lot of lose fibers on the backside when you receive the paper.
I guess that these fibers came off while cutting the paper to final sheet size.
After applying it to the adapter you should properly blow these away with a rocket blower or pressurized air.
Once that is done i do not expect any more fibers to peel off.
Typically there's not a big tornado going around in the camera that could peel off the fibers. At least not in mine
p.103 #4 · Sony A7 and A7r Full Frame with Canon Lenses
Achim Sieger wrote:
I've tested different papers and found the edmund paper to be the best one.
However you are right. There are a lot of lose fibers on the backside when you receive the paper.
I guess that these fibers came off while cutting the paper to final sheet size.
After applying it to the adapter you should properly blow these away with a rocket blower or pressurized air.
Once that is done i do not expect any more fibers to peel off.
Typically there's not a big tornado going around in the camera that could peel off the fibers. At least not in mine
Best regards
Achim...Show more →
The "installation tips" pdf for the Protostar paper also talks about loose fibers that might come with the paper: "It will not shed fibers onto your optical surfaces under normal use. (There may be trace amounts of residual flock fibers left over from the manufacturing process. This can be easily removed with a lint roller, and only needs to be done one time.)" http://www.protostar.biz/ftp/fpinst.pdf
p.103 #8 · Sony A7 and A7r Full Frame with Canon Lenses
artd wrote:
Secondclaw, did you flock both faces of the adapter?
I covered fully the front inner face (EF side) and the rear E-mount side - the rectangular baffle. Also fully covered the ridged inner tube on all sides.
While I was putting this together I was testing to see when the flare will disappear, so I first tried with inner surface, then added front face, then rear baffle. There was maybe an imperceptible change to the flare but it's still there, quiet easily reproducible. I didn't flock the shiny aluminum mount on both sides - not sure if I have to do that. But I covered all parts of the adapter that were already painted black. I see no reflections when I shine a flashlight into the light path.
I tested with TS/E 24mm and 24-70mm - and the flare is pretty much still there - I tested placing the light right outside each side of the frame, and in all 4 cases got the elongated flare. The flare is softer - doesn't have the weird criss-cross pattern like it used to have (so maybe that was caused by ridges in the light path).
p.103 #9 · Sony A7 and A7r Full Frame with Canon Lenses
secondclaw wrote:
I covered fully the front inner face (EF side) and the rear E-mount side - the rectangular baffle. Also fully covered the ridged inner tube on all sides.
While I was putting this together I was testing to see when the flare will disappear, so I first tried with inner surface, then added front face, then rear baffle. There was maybe an imperceptible change to the flare but it's still there, quiet easily reproducible. I didn't flock the shiny aluminum mount on both sides - not sure if I have to do that. But I covered all parts of the adapter that were already painted black. I see no reflections when I shine a flashlight into the light path.
I tested with TS/E 24mm and 24-70mm - and the flare is pretty much still there - I tested placing the light right outside each side of the frame, and in all 4 cases got the elongated flare. The flare is softer - doesn't have the weird criss-cross pattern like it used to have (so maybe that was caused by ridges in the light path). ...Show more →
How does the amount of flare compare to what you'd get shooting the same test on a native mount? Does a lens shade help?
p.103 #10 · Sony A7 and A7r Full Frame with Canon Lenses
Hi all. Anybody has some experience using fast primes on A7r? I am tempted to try it out, just to see how the 50L and 85L will work on 36MP sensor. Now using 5D3 with supper matte focusing screen and LV focus peaking from ML, but I want to know, I can get critical focus on Sony, before making the jump.
Any shots below F2 are welcome as well. Thank you for any useful input.
p.103 #11 · Sony A7 and A7r Full Frame with Canon Lenses
Answer is it depends which lens. If the lens has good contrast wide open peaking will be fine. If it's soft wide open then the peaking will not be enough. Add to that 36 megapixels is murder on focus technique, if you screw up then boy are you going to know it.
p.103 #13 · Sony A7 and A7r Full Frame with Canon Lenses
Hi,
This is my very first post here but have been following this post fairly regularly... I have the A7R and the Canon 24mm TS-E and the Metabones III. I have yet to use it enough to really notice the flare issues myself but believe it is well enough documented to see the benefit of implementing some of the custom solutions provided to the Metabones III with regards to internal reflections etc...
I see that someone on here has written to Novoflex with regards to a Canon - E Mount adapter that would correct these issues.. I also wrote to them after hearing about this and to see whether the adapter they would be making would have electrical communication like the Metabones..
This is the reply back from Martin at Novoflex
" Thank you for your e-mail.
The adapter we are planning to build for this combination will be a totally mechanical like all our other camera to lens adapters.
Its intended to be used with third party EF-mount lenses with built-in aperture control rings.
You won't be able to control the aperture in your Canon EF-mount lenses with it.
Kind regards
Martin Grahl
(Sales) "
So at this stage it still looks like the Metabones is still the way to go....
p.103 #15 · Sony A7 and A7r Full Frame with Canon Lenses
CalBoy87 wrote:
Hi all. Anybody has some experience using fast primes on A7r? I am tempted to try it out, just to see how the 50L and 85L will work on 36MP sensor. Now using 5D3 with supper matte focusing screen and LV focus peaking from ML, but I want to know, I can get critical focus on Sony, before making the jump.
Any shots below F2 are welcome as well. Thank you for any useful input.
I have no problem focusing wide open with the 85L and the F1 Noctilux, setting focus peaking to red and getting familiar with it can get you consistently sharp results. The amount of peaking varies from scene to scene so that's pretty much the only adjustment you'll need to make. It's nice getting sharp images reasonably off center wide open with a Nocti with moving subjects which is rather difficult on an M9 and you actually see the whole frame in the viewfinder instead of a good quarter blocked out by the lens on the M9.
p.103 #16 · Sony A7 and A7r Full Frame with Canon Lenses
wallpapervikin wrote:
Its intended to be used with third party EF-mount lenses with built-in aperture control rings.
You won't be able to control the aperture in your Canon EF-mount lenses with it.
Sounds like a complete waste of time... I really wish Metabones would get their act together and improve their adapter.
p.103 #17 · Sony A7 and A7r Full Frame with Canon Lenses
AGeoJO wrote:
^^^ Wow, I was expecting that Novoflex adapters would be similar to those of Metabones . Oh, well.
Apparently, Novaflex is a machine shop, not an electronics shop. Metabones seems to half-ass both fields, but at least you get electronic auto-aperture for your money.
I still don't get why it is so hard to build a basic extension tube with electronic contacts and a bit of circuitry -- every Canon tele-extender has it, as do most third party models.
p.103 #20 · Sony A7 and A7r Full Frame with Canon Lenses
wallpapervikin wrote:
Hi,
This is my very first post here but have been following this post fairly regularly... I have the A7R and the Canon 24mm TS-E and the Metabones III. I have yet to use it enough to really notice the flare issues myself but believe it is well enough documented to see the benefit of implementing some of the custom solutions provided to the Metabones III with regards to internal reflections etc...
I see that someone on here has written to Novoflex with regards to a Canon - E Mount adapter that would correct these issues.. I also wrote to them after hearing about this and to see whether the adapter they would be making would have electrical communication like the Metabones..
This is the reply back from Martin at Novoflex
" Thank you for your e-mail.
The adapter we are planning to build for this combination will be a totally mechanical like all our other camera to lens adapters.
Its intended to be used with third party EF-mount lenses with built-in aperture control rings.
You won't be able to control the aperture in your Canon EF-mount lenses with it.
Kind regards
Martin Grahl
(Sales) "
So at this stage it still looks like the Metabones is still the way to go....
That is a bummer. I was informed that the adapter would be similar to the Metabones. Their words were "better" than it.
Here is what they wrote me:
"Dear Fred,
We are working on a better solution, Metabones offers at the moment.
That will take us 3 to 5 more months, between March - June
Regards
Mit freundlichen Grüßen
Michael Hiesinger"
-----
I will confirm with them regarding the aperture control. Their current Nikon to E-mount adapter allows aperture change on the adapter. I am assuming the Canon version will be very similar to this one. The price is less than $300.
See here: http://www.adorama.com/NVNEXNIK.html
That would be a good trade-off if the adapter was built with better tolerance than the current alternatives.
Fred
. Oh, well.
