p.1 #1 · Some thoughts / questions for studio photographers
Hello
My name is Ami I am a professional photographer from Israel.
I like to use for product photography in the studio in the "Live View".(nikon D7000)
I'm always connected to the computer with the CAMERA CONTROL PRO 2
But whom I photograph in the studio with strobs the Ambient light in the room is low to view something on the computer screen and I have to change the photographic data from sensitivity, colors, Aperture, etc. just to get close examine to adjust the focus or frame arrangement.
I think Nikon should add amode of "Live View" for studio photography
What do you think?
And do you have any ideas on this issue
Ami
p.1 #3 · Some thoughts / questions for studio photographers
Ami
I'm a little confused by your post.
So you're tethered to the laptop giving you "live view" to compose.
And when you take your final shot the exposure is too low ? And you are using flashes to light the material? The "live view" IS more or less made for studio type shots. Although many people use it outside on location, hoods and power for notebook and such are required. So.... Maybe if you went through your issue in a more accurate point by point we could chime in an offer an opinion.
p.1 #4 · Some thoughts / questions for studio photographers
My Panasonic GH2 has a "fake" exposure LV where it will adjust the viewfinder to give you a brighter exposure when you look at it, but when you take the picture it will be exposed to whatever the camera setting is.
If that is what you mean, yes Nikon should have this feature as well. Or you can simply just turn on more lights.
p.1 #5 · Some thoughts / questions for studio photographers
I did not explain myself well, in the studio When I photograph with flashes and I am tethered to the laptop ' the general lights in the studio are for "seeing in the dark" and all the camera setings are for flash photograpy So the camera can not see anything (dark) in the "live view"
To see something on the screen I have to change the camera's data every time Back and forth which is annoying.
Basically what "saelee" wrote is what I need
p.1 #6 · Some thoughts / questions for studio photographers
Ami, the feature you're looking for might be the "High sensitivity movie mode"-setting of the D3s.
This setting boosts the brightness level in Live-View (I don't care about the video-stuff ;-).
I'm not familiar with recent Nikon DSLR's (D600, D800), but it seems that these models don't have this very useful feature.
p.1 #7 · Some thoughts / questions for studio photographers
Well, you're shooting a D200, so, any changes to LV wouldn't help.
But, on the serious side, take test shots with a stand-in subject when using flash or strobes. The object is to have the lighting basically nailed down before the session and then adjust when needed. Otherwise buy some studio lights. You can't get around making adjustments to the camera or the flashes, whether using PW's or an SU800.
p.1 #9 · Some thoughts / questions for studio photographers
Never used a D200, but the D800E (with the latest firmware update) allows you to switch in and out of Exposure Preview by pressing the OK button. When not in Exposure Preview the camera raises the gain so the LCD image looks reasonable.
You might want to check if Exposure Preview is the only mode for Live View in the D200.
p.1 #11 · Some thoughts / questions for studio photographers
The simplest solution is to add one continuous light for composing and focus which you turn off before taking the shot. A switched cord can place the control right where you are. You can get any cheap light since your not actually lighting with it.
If you want to take this a step further, you really should consider continuous lighting for your product photography. A WYSIWYG lighting setup is much faster and makes managing reflections and shadows a once and done deal. I've used both extensively and feel that unless the power of strobes is needed and if the extra heat is not an issue, continuous lighting is superior.
p.1 #12 · Some thoughts / questions for studio photographers
I just looked at your www and you certainly have good command of your lighting already. Ignore the 2nd part of my post above. No need to temper with something that's working well for you. Think about the first part though. Even a camera that compensates for low light is going to be slow and less accurate to focus in a dark environment.
p.1 #13 · Some thoughts / questions for studio photographers
I use 3 Studio strobes ( broncolor) not small Falashas AS the SB-XXX
When I work on the set there are Ambient light and the pilot lights of the strobes.
I did not mention in my O.P the camera I'm working with is D7000 and soon I buy the successor D7100.
When the photographic data are around 1/200 F11 ISO 100 it does not really matter how much light there is in the room, everything is dark on the monitor I have to raise the sensitivity open the aperture and lower the speed and WB then you can see clearly and then return it all back.
I usually moves the camera for M to auto (green square) and then you can see and then return back to M .
But it also requires a physical change the camera button and not the computer.
And you can not do it straight from your computer
It is particularly problematic if the camera is high or at A hard to reach angle.
I am very"old" photographer before the days of digital photography I worked with the sinar P2 field camera and Mamiya 645.(And are still gathering dust in the studio) Polaroid was a common staple in the studio
My goal is not to replace the"Polaroid" My goal is just to allow me to see" As seen througha A LUPA" like in the past when we used a Lupa to check the focus
And for compositions or when you move something on the table(set) it is easier to see the relationship between other items in the picture without using Another assistant.
