TMaG82 wrote:
Great set and exactly my reasoning why I picked up one and getting it delivered on Wednesday. I have a FF setup in the Sony a9, 24-70GM, and 85 1.8. I was researching 35mm options A few weeks ago and between the huge 1.4 and the tiny 2.8, couldn't decide. Then took the setup with me up to Newport, RI for the 4th of July and spent more time with lenses, carrying heavy gear, and had moments where I spent too much time obsessing about gear that I didn't enjoy a day out with my family.
Funny, my exact reason for going with the X100F. Have the A7RII and don't like the size of the Zony, the rendering of the Loxia and the slow 2.8. The Fuji has become my go everywhere camera and the images have been great.
I have a question for the ones that know this camera best, is there a way to show just the raw picture after taking the picture on the LCD vs showing the jpg applying film selected? If I'm shooting just raw I don't want provia or whatever I have selected, just raw
rsolti13 wrote:
Funny, my exact reason for going with the X100F. Have the A7RII and don't like the size of the Zony, the rendering of the Loxia and the slow 2.8. The Fuji has become my go everywhere camera and the images have been great.
I have a question for the ones that know this camera best, is there a way to show just the raw picture after taking the picture on the LCD vs showing the jpg applying film selected? If I'm shooting just raw I don't want provia or whatever I have selected, just raw
Ryan, great shots from Italy
If you wish for the best emulation of RAW files on the LCD, opt for the Pro Neg Std. This is a very flat, almost untouched output. I am now finding for portraits that the XT2/X100F sensor has a lot of subtlety in the RAW files and many of the films selected are too high in contrast at least for portraits.
I am now using Pro Neg Std or Adobe as the two are very similar. The Adobe profile with the latest iteration of Lr is excellent and has a subtle color profile seemingly added to the Pro Neg Std without the punchy/heavy contrast. I prefer to add contrast last or adjust the tone curve as needed.
Also I read for portraits you want to reduce marginally the red and orange channels to have more natural skin. This appears to be an issue with many Japanese cameras.
Shot this afternoon with RoboShoot Nikon SB 910. Manual exposure -1 2/3 FEV. The RoboShoot works flawlessly with the XT2 but is not as reliable with the X100F.
Thanks for that info Charles, will try later this afternoon. Just ran into an issue....I need Photoshop CC. I have been getting by with CS6 but camera raw stopped at 9.1 and I need 9.9 for the X100F.
