Rob, thanks. Was your shot "Ryoanji Temple - Kyoto" really shot with Distagon T* 1.4/35 C/Y? Background blur is much more blur than I would assume, or the tree is very small and this was shoot really close.
One of my acid tests for bokeh Carl Zeiss Planar T* 1.4/50 @ f/2.8, 1/2000s, 5DmkII @ ISO 100 (normal webthumbnail size)
carstenw wrote:
Really nice, but in the large version, I think I would prefer the focus about 1 foot closer.
You are absolutely right Carstenw, only in this version I could see I missed focus the tree. I guess it was because focus shift when shooting wide open. When shooting WO, I always rely on my eyes since the AF-confirmation is not quite accurate, when it shows in-focus (the dot appears), if I capture the scene it is always foot(s) behind subjects I want to capture. Another way I rely on is that the arrow of AF-confirmation, when it is just about to turn to the dot. However this way does not work all the time . Would you share your experiences when shooting WO ?
ltruong8 wrote:
You are absolutely right Carstenw, only in this version I could see I missed focus the tree. I guess it was because focus shift when shooting wide open. When shooting WO, I always rely on my eyes since the AF-confirmation is not quite accurate, when it shows in-focus (the dot appears), if I capture the scene it is always foot(s) behind subjects I want to capture. Another way I rely on is that the arrow of AF-confirmation, when it is just about to turn to the dot. However this way does not work all the time . Would you share your experiences when shooting WO ?...Show more →
I'm sorry, but "focus shift" have no sense on WO. Some lenses have effect named "focus shift", it mean moving the focal plane when you close aperture. On WO just curvature of field on wide angle lenses. You need focusing by objects which need in focus and that's all
Right, focus shift is when the lens focuses at different distances wide open and stopped down. Since most cameras focus with the lens wide open, the actual photograph can be out of focus if you shoot stopped down.
Depending on which lens I use, I either shoot and check focus repeatedly until I get it, or for the very difficult lenses like this one, I will often use live view, even handheld, and compose on the rear screen, move the focus square to where I want the focus to be, zoom to 100% (I have this setting on the centre button in the multi-selector control) while holding the camera still, focus and shoot. If the composition is critical and the focus less so, I might switch out of 100% mode before releasing, to fine-tune the composition.
I never use the focus confirmation dots. I don't know how accurate they are, they might be fine, but I don't like focusing like that.
ltruong8 wrote:
You are absolutely right Carstenw, only in this version I could see I missed focus the tree. I guess it was because focus shift when shooting wide open. When shooting WO, I always rely on my eyes since the AF-confirmation is not quite accurate, when it shows in-focus (the dot appears), if I capture the scene it is always foot(s) behind subjects I want to capture. Another way I rely on is that the arrow of AF-confirmation, when it is just about to turn to the dot. However this way does not work all the time . Would you share your experiences when shooting WO ?...Show more →
Perhaps you focused on a central point, and then change the position of the camera. This is wrong, especially for wide angle lens. Due to the large field of view and focal plane curvature that decision will never be successful.
Carl Zeiss Planar T* 1.4/50 @ f/2.8, 1/2000s, 5DmkII @ ISO 100 (
. You all are correct, thank you!! 