p.2 #3 · Can someone please explain this phenomenon for me.
It looks to me like you've got a back focusing problem combined with to slow shutter speed giving you a little bit of motion blur from the camera. It's hard to tell but in the first shot seems like the railing in back of your subject is in focus. Your camera lenses can be calibrated manually. I would try doing that first then put the ISO and f-stop a little bit higher so your shutter speed is at least double your focal length. If that doesn't work try a tripod and see if your moving the camera when you're shooting. Practice releasing your shutter and watching one of the lines in the viewfinder matched up with the background point and see if it moves when you click the shutter. Good luck!
Jan 10, 2013 at 09:03 PM
mshi Offline • • • • [X]
p.2 #4 · Can someone please explain this phenomenon for me.
hijazist wrote:
Honestly, I like the before a lot better. The one on the right is unflattering and looks like HDR, but maybe that's just me
Do you really assume what you view on screen is what you get in print?
p.2 #6 · Can someone please explain this phenomenon for me.
I presume that is shot with a nikon 70-200 f2.8?
If so, I am struggling with mirror slap caused blur with that lens. I can usually hand hold at <1/f with some reliability, yet struggle with what seems to be mirror slap blur from ~1/80-1/120th
p.2 #7 · Can someone please explain this phenomenon for me.
hijazist wrote:
Honestly, I like the before a lot better. The one on the right is unflattering and looks like HDR, but maybe that's just me
I was about to say the same thing. Sharpening does NOT help in this case. In fact there are many classic potrait techniques and most of them involve softening the image. Starting with putting net over the lens and then those filters that look like glass with rain drops on them and even using low contrast film and nikon's "DC" lens
One old darkroom technique was to expose the paper then defocus the enlarger and reepose the paper
p.2 #8 · Can someone please explain this phenomenon for me.
We're overthinking this. As I posted at the start, the slightly blurry shot is at 1/80 at 85mm and the sharp example from the Canon is at 1/160 (the shot settings shown in the post is wrong about the sharp shot). Increase the shutter speed and work on handholding technique.
p.2 #9 · Can someone please explain this phenomenon for me.
I would agree that the shutter speed is the way to go…unless your client, family or friends want to look like a zombie then go with the increased sharpening.
A lot of times I use a flash outside as well to fill the subject's face in a controlled manner, but I do love to use ambient light when its possible. It looks like it was an overcast day, maybe if you had more ambient light you could have increased shutter speed, one last suggestion would have been to increase ISO and then subsequently could have increase shutter speed without underexposing your shot.
p.2 #10 · Can someone please explain this phenomenon for me.
Your problem is with the lenses focus accuracy at certain distances. In the first shot, she doesn't look like she's blurry from motion blur, but from being slightly out of focus, the focus is on the fence behind her, see how it's sharp..
Think you might wanna consider sending your camera and lenses into nikon to be calibrated for min - mid - max focusing distances.
p.2 #11 · Can someone please explain this phenomenon for me.
SloPhoto wrote:
I presume that is shot with a nikon 70-200 f2.8?
If so, I am struggling with mirror slap caused blur with that lens. I can usually hand hold at <1/f with some reliability, yet struggle with what seems to be mirror slap blur from ~1/80-1/120th
Do you have any other tele lenses to try out?
It was shot with 24-85 that came with D600. The sharp image was shot with 105VRII.
p.2 #13 · Can someone please explain this phenomenon for me.
mshi wrote:
Do you really assume what you view on screen is what you get in print?
It should be. Mine is. On both of my laptop and desktop. The image I see on screen is what my print looks like. If your having problems with that, then I'm thinking you need to calibrate your monitors.
p.2 #14 · Can someone please explain this phenomenon for me.
1. Have you tested these camera/lens combos on a tripod at the slower shutter speed? This will tell you if hand-holding technique is the problem. You should be able to shoot at 1/60 with a D800 and get a decent keeper rate. I've done it with a D800e and a D4. You will get soft focus sometimes, but, that might be the price you pay for the shot.
2. Have you checked lens focus on these cameras using tripod, live focus, and proper target? You might need to micro adjust the cameras to get best results.
BTW, I'm not buying shutter slap being the problem.
Good luck.
Jan 11, 2013 at 11:30 AM
mshi Offline • • • • [X]
p.2 #15 · Can someone please explain this phenomenon for me.
Hardcore wrote:
It should be. Mine is. On both of my laptop and desktop. The image I see on screen is what my print looks like. If your having problems with that, then I'm thinking you need to calibrate your monitors.
The brightness, contrast, hue and color saturation may be approximately matched between two different output devices, such as screen and paper. However, I am eager to learn how you have managed to achieve identical sharpness levels in two entirely different outputs only using one identical set of sharpening parameters. Please enlighten us.
p.2 #17 · Can someone please explain this phenomenon for me.
mshi wrote:
The brightness, contrast, hue and color saturation may be approximately matched between two different output devices, such as screen and paper. However, I am eager to learn how you have managed to achieve identical sharpness levels in two entirely different outputs only using one identical set of sharpening parameters. Please enlighten us.
You didn't just sharpen that image. You increased the contrast like someone else said. I sharpen the image during processing and then I output sharpen the image via lightroom during the print process. I have yet to notice any softness in any of my prints.
p.2 #18 · Can someone please explain this phenomenon for me.
I can't tell to be certain without seeing a full res copy of the shot that the problem with that first shot is blur and not missed focus as another poster seems to think. I do know this though-
I don't even try, unless my ISO and f-stop are maxed WAY out to shoot people with even a shutter speed that matches the focal length. People (since they move) almost always require >1/200, and often more if you expect to get a critically sharp shot. And thats even with a wide angle lens. For longer lenses (85, 105 etc), I try to go 2x or 3x the focal length. Anything less and you can expect blur from camera shake, especially with a 36MP camera.
In my opinion, the age old rule of thumb to try for 1/FL is woefully inadequate for most situations and completely outdated for high resolution cameras.
To sum: if you got sharp shots shooting people at 1/60th with a 85mm lens with your Canon, you just got really lucky, or you have impeccable technique and statue-like subjects. You should adjust your habits. D600 is completely fine at ISO 1600 and up. Use it.
p.2 #20 · Can someone please explain this phenomenon for me.
High MP sensors are unforgiving for vibration, camera shake, anything that moves. Try tripod mount, LV, and remote release. If blurry still, then there is a problem.
I can usually do 1/90 handheld but will need VR below that.