So I've been playing with the idea of using a manually operated Remote camera. And by that I mean a "Camera on a stick"
I've got a D3s and I bought a Fisheye lens that I've been playing with for crowd shots and such. The problem is I'm a small guy. 5'4" and getting over the crowd is an issue. So I have my PW and a cable to fire the camera with. So I want to get the camera up a bit higher and I've seen guys use some sort of a stick.
I have a nice monopod, but the weight of the camera and the monopod might be a bit more than I need. Do any of you have a suggestion on a nice "stick" to use?
Manfrotto SuperClamps and a MagicArm? Not sure if there is a stationary position you could mount it from to shoot the crowd... Although if your intention is to be able to walk around and fire the camera that isn't the right solution either. I have this setup to use for a netcam, but again, not a mobile solution.
If you were to safety wire the camera and lens somehow and use a good quality monopod and connection I would think it should work pretty safely. Another option would be a lighter weight body with remote connector option for the PW or even a cable release. The 10.5mm fisheye is very light on a DX body... although now you're into another investment.
GoPros are great for this for outside. The low light performance leaves a LOT to be desired. I feel you on the weight aspect. A 1D with a 17-40 or 24-70 on it is very cumbersome. You could try to different things. They use to make monopod pouches that go on your belt. IIRC it was a product that allowed you to use the monopod in a crowded space with out worrying about tripping someone. You could try that or a flag support like ROTC Color Guard use. Another option would be to add a long strap to your monopod, at least 6 feet. That way while you have it extended and over your head, you could hold the strap with a second hand or with an assistant standing behind you just for extra support.
The other option that I just thought of would be something like this: http://www.durastilts.com
just bypass the monopod.
Thanks guys I have a Gopro hero 2 but as Carl said indoor lowlight quality leaves a lot to be desired. This isn't going to be used a lot just during timeouts, halftime and times like that. But I worry about safety putting the D3s and 16mm up that high using one hand. My monopod is a nice Manfretto that handles my D4 and 400 with no problem. But if I could find something lightweight and 2-4 foot long I think it would be ok .
I think Carl's idea of a flag carrying belt (harness) with a monopod would work. The harness would support the weight and only one hand would be needed to balance the system. My concern is safely securing the camera while above your head and spectators heads.
I've used a extendable paint pole from Home Depot with a Kasey Enterprises DSLR paint pole adapter for many years now. Works FABULOUS and is pretty affordable too.
Here is the link http://www.kaceyenterprises.com/?page_id=871
I use my monopod with mixed results. I use modified aluminum window cleaning extensible poles for remote lights (typically a speedlight with a small softbox) but I wouldn't trust them with a heavy camera + lens.
Here is the setup I use for my camera:
Monopod (carbon 4 sections 5'5" tall) with a Arca Swiss compatible clamp mounted at the top. It's my everyday use monopod so I don't have to carry anything extra with me.
D3s with a Arca Swiss plate mounted at the bottom17-35mm F/2.8 lens set at 17mm and PocketWizard. Camera in set in Manual exposure mode and with 51 points / 3D autofocus and CH frame rate.
I extend the monopod to the maximum, them hold it with two hands. I hold the pocketwizard in the hand further away from the camera and moves the camera back and forth over the area I want to cover while pressing the switch on the PW in my hand.
Works ok (see image below).
Downside: it's pretty heavy (you definitively don't want to drop it on anyone!), it would work better with a longer pole and / or a wider angle lens (14mm). There is no remote viewing capabilities so it can be a crapshoot as what pictures you get.
I might try with a D700 and a cheap fisheye lens one of these days to see if I can get better results (it would be lighter and have a wider coverage).
I'll also try with my Sony NEX 5N and a 8mm lens (12mm effective) one of these days. The challenge is to rig a IR remote as these cameras have no input for PocketWizard.
I've been simply using a monopod and a cable release, which limits me to about 9'. I hate messing with PWs, but you can get a cable extension cord, which is probably a solid investment.
Next season I'll likely purchase an aerial pano-pole. The basic models are around $300 and extend about 10-15'. I think you can even buy extensions that get you to nearly 30'. They also have a drop out base to step on to help balance the pole and allow you to spin the camera in pre determined increments.
I decided to go with my current monopod and the PW to fire it. Put my pretrigger cable on, and Continuous Autofocus and centerpoint and did a bit of spray and pray. Here are the results. Close to what I wanted. D3s, 16MM Fisheye, PW Plus two with Flashzebra pretrigger cable, and my Manfretto monopod.
In terms of the torque you aren't going to receive anything different between two sets of straight poles, so just make sure that whatever pole you are using is sturdy as can be. The torque is created from the lever arm (the pole) with the weight (the camera) at the end of it and as you go out more and more, you will have to put out more force to keep the camera stable. That being said, there will be no torque if you go straight up vertical. It's a whole equilibrium problem to solve for how much force you have to put out in order to keep the camera stable. But if you keep the camera straight up you'll just have to deal with the weight of the camera and the pole
All in all a lighter camera will do better because it weighs less and a shorter pole will create less torque, and I know with Nikon at least they have an IR remote that you can use so there isn't a need for a cable up to 15' away
I really want to try something like this for halfpipe skiing, but i think they go too high out of the pipe for this to be reasonable to pull off.
My t2i and opteka fisheye make a pretty light combo though
If you have a friend to hold the pole with a camera you could use one of several programs to see the live view and trigger images off an iPhone, iPad and I'm sure an Android.
