p.1 #1 · Nikon D600 versus D7000 exposure measurement system
Hi Nikon-friends,
I own a Nikon D7000 which tends to overexpose often very strong - that is a well-known behaviour. Also dpreview wrote about.
How about the D600 now with similar or comparabel measurement system? I would like to upgrade the D7000 with the new D600, but this is very annoying. I already shooted with the D800E, but do not really need the 36MP... A D600E would be enough.
Could somebody compare the two bodies? If the D600 behave similar I tend to go for D800...
p.1 #2 · Nikon D600 versus D7000 exposure measurement system
Walter - I'm guessing your countryman Andy E. on this forum can give you the best answer, but you might want to read what Thom Hogan has written about the D7K overexposure concern. Net: he believes it is a difference in the metering system that is actually correct exposure. I think he'd tell you that understanding the metering system and having the camera tuned to your shooting style.
Since the metering system is very similar, I'd expect similar performance to the D7000. Considering the dynamic range the D600 is capable of, I think you'll be very happy with it. You might consider getting Thom's D7000 or D600 guide (when it comes out, though my guess is it will be extremely similarto the D7K guide).
"Metering System
Another surprise. The matrix meter on the D7000 is good. Real good. The old "overemphasis on focus sensor being used" has been mitigated somewhat (and really only happens when you use AF S focus). Moreover, I was surprised to see that it isn't easily fooled by large expanses of white or black. When Nikon said they tweaked the color-consideration aspect of the matrix system, they weren't kidding. The pattern recognition seems better and more refined, too. Things that completely flummoxed the D90 meter were handled just fine by the D7000. But watch your focus setting: it impacts the metering, and you need to be aware of that. The patterns and tendencies are different for single servo AF versus continuous.
I've noticed a bit of chatter on the net about "overexposure." But that's not what's really happening with the D7000 metering system. No, it's that color matching and pattern matching coming into play. And correctly, I think. Let's say, for example, that there's a skin tone in the foreground of your scene. Perhaps the person with that skin is even a bit backlit. Well, the D7000 certainly sees that skin tone and knows where to put it on the tonal scale. But in previous Nikon matrix meters, if the background was producing values that would blow out the histogram, the matrix meter tended (but not always and not completely) to preserve highlights. I don't see as much of that with the D7000 (except in single servo AF). It's not going to preserve those highlights at the expense of what it thinks is "subject." It certainly won't preserve them as much as previous Nikon matrix meters, even when it decides to do so. Two other things play into the "overexposure" issue. First, there's gamma. People coming from older (pre-D3) Nikon bodies and seeing Picture Controls for the first time are reacting to the mid-range boost that the default Picture Control applies compared to the old style image settings. Second is contrast. The defaults (and many of the other Picture Controls) push contrast a bit, and that has a tendency to make bright seem brighter.
The corollary is that if you pop up the flash for some fill, the D7000 seems to get that exposure just a little more on target than previous consumer cameras. Nikon's obviously done a lot of tweaking, and for those of you coming from another Nikon DSLR, there's going to be a learning curve before you manage to fully grock the new matrix patterns and tendencies.
However, all isn't perfect. Be aware of one very big caveat: when the scene you're metering hits 16.3 EV, the matrix metering system gives up and sets its value for 16.3 EV, no matter how much more light there may be. EV 16.3 at ISO 100 is f/11 at 1/500, which is barely beyond Sunny 16. This won't occur all that often in your shooting, but it does occur sometimes, so make note of that. In really bright light conditions (snow, beach, etc.) you probably need to be in centerweighted metering."
already read it in past before buying and forgot. Yes this is the perfect explanation what happens - and I do not like that new behaviour. If I prefer exposure right for dark person in front - i use spot metering... And if i am photographing a house shadow side I am not so amused if the sky above is over-exposed.
A D600E would be enough.
