p.3 #3 · Canon EOS EF to EF-M converter WITH SHIFT MOVEMENTS
Matt Grum wrote:
You don't need trigonometry - just use the dimensions of the 2 sensors.
Full frame is 36mm x 24mm, thus with a 22.2mm x 14.8mm you could shift +-6.9mm horizontally and 4.6mm vertically.
The Kipon adapter can shift 15mm which sorta correlates with other poster’s calculations for a shift towards the long side of the frame. Vignetting will occur with some adapter settings varying with different lenses with the already mentioned image circle size & non-round baffles. Examples of other light path obstructions on the lens base are the electrical contacts encroachment on the 85mm L or the gel holder on the base of the EF 17-40 that would more likely show when rotated to line up with diagonal sensor corners.
Not taking into account lens mount obstructions the worst case for a vignetting trifecta of adjustments would occur when the adapter‘s shift is at max, the shift access lines up with the diagonal sensor corners via the adapter’s base rotation adjustment. I guess tilt would create a quadfecta of adjustments! To complete the ensomb would be a stack of your favorite filters turned into the front the lens.
Not taking into account other light path obstructions I’m thinking that not much more than an 8mm shift lined up with diagonal sensor corners will start vignetting.
I want the max shift available and can take care of occasional vignetting with reduced adjustments.
p.3 #4 · Canon EOS EF to EF-M converter WITH SHIFT MOVEMENTS
I realize the thread is about a shift adapter for Canon M cameras, but please consider an alternate way to get similar results. If you have quality EF glass, you likely also have a full frame Canon DSLR. If you do, and it is farily high resolurion, you can shoot with a post processing crop in mind, and get about the same "shift" coverage by cropping to that planned area. Obviously you loose a bit of resolution compared to a real shift on to an M sensor would provide, but you have no adapter involved, and thus much less to worry about. Oh, and it works right now, with full lens control from the camera.
The other extreme side of the potential for a shift adapter for M cameras if a good one were ever to exist would be combining the adapter with a Canon tilt shift lens, which would provide a lot of shift. I consider that combination a bit over the top, but still, something to think about.
p.3 #5 · Canon EOS EF to EF-M converter WITH SHIFT MOVEMENTS
Roland W wrote:
I realize the thread is about a shift adapter for Canon M cameras, but please consider an alternate way to get similar results. If you have quality EF glass, you likely also have a full frame Canon DSLR. If you do, and it is farily high resolurion, you can shoot with a post processing crop in mind, and get about the same "shift" coverage by cropping to that planned area. Obviously you loose a bit of resolution compared to a real shift on to an M sensor would provide, but you have no adapter involved, and thus much less to worry about. Oh, and it works right now, with full lens control from the camera. ...Show more →
This only works to a tiny degree for individual shots, though might be successful if done with an as-mentioned well thought out panorama stitch.
Roland W wrote:
The other extreme side of the potential for a shift adapter for M cameras if a good one were ever to exist would be combining the adapter with a Canon tilt shift lens, which would provide a lot of shift. I consider that combination a bit over the top, but still, something to think about.
I considered this too .
Still, the idea here is that there are very few actual challenges involved, even for a fully-powered shifting, tilting, rotating adapter. And the crazy thing is that with an active adapter (done properly), live-view contrast AF will still work, as will IS; the idea of using one of Canon's wide stabilized primes to provide for hand-held shots with built-in perspective correction and insane depth of field is tantalizing!
p.3 #6 · Canon EOS EF to EF-M converter WITH SHIFT MOVEMENTS
Roland W wrote:
I realize the thread is about a shift adapter for Canon M cameras, but please consider an alternate way to get similar results. If you have quality EF glass, you likely also have a full frame Canon DSLR. If you do, and it is farily high resolurion, you can shoot with a post processing crop in mind, and get about the same "shift" coverage by cropping to that planned area..
You can't get about the same shift coverage by cropping. Using a full frame sensor and cropping gives you a maximum vertical shift of 4.5mm if you want to retain an APS-C size image. Because the APS-C frame is narrower than full frame a physical shift adapter would give 11mm of vertical shift before you hit the edge of the 43mm full frame image circle.
So going the adapter route gives you greater pixel density and over twice as much shift.
