Michael H wrote:
As I sit here and type it might be that some of the images just look a bit too "digital". Does that make sense? There is a rich and almost organic feel to my 1DS3 images. I know this setup is not meant to be that full-frame tool. It might however just be the differences I'm spotting and not quite used to.
Mike
Try some of these presets in LR as a place to start. I think I am getting closer to what I want from these files.
Exposure: -1.45
Contrast: -29
Highlights: -5
Shadows: 5
Whites: 0
Blacks: 65
Clarity: 32
Vibrance: 25
Saturation: 6
Sliders in tone curve:
border between shadows and darks: 10
border between darks and lights: 30
border between lights and highlights: 90
Hightlights: -40
Lights: 54
Darks: 50
Shadows: -20
Point curve: Medium Contrast
Color:
Red hue: -75
Red saturation: -10
Red luminance: 20
Orange hue: -7
Orange saturation: 4
Orange luminance: 4
Yellow hue: -6
Yellow saturation: 13
Yellow luminance: 1
Green hue: 2
Green saturation: 20
Green luminance: 13
Aqua hue: -30
Aqua saturation: 19
Aqua luminance: 10
Blue hue: -6
Blue saturation: 9
Blue luminance: 6
Purple hue: 22
Purple saturation: 25
Purple luminance: 14
Magenta hue: -28
Magenta saturation: 28
Magenta luminance: 0
Sharpening:
amount: 60
radius: 0.7
detail: 20
Camera Calibration:
process: 2012 (Current)
profile: Adobe Standard
Red primary:
hue: 41
saturation: -11
Green primary:
hue: 30
saturation: -30
Blue primary:
hue: -1
saturation: 1
Still working on it but these setting are giving me more "pop" out of the photos I have to work with. Again, this is just a starting point.
The results you've posted here look great. But, aren't setting this deep going to vary great from image to image? I could certainly be wrong but I can't see this formula being of benefit as an all around preset.
galenapass wrote:
Mike
Try some of these presets in LR as a place to start. I think I am getting closer to what I want from these files.
Exposure: -1.45
Contrast: -29
Highlights: -5
Shadows: 5
Whites: 0
Blacks: 65
Clarity: 32
Vibrance: 25
Saturation: 6
Sliders in tone curve:
border between shadows and darks: 10
border between darks and lights: 30
border between lights and highlights: 90
Hightlights: -40
Lights: 54
Darks: 50
Shadows: -20
Point curve: Medium Contrast
Color:
Red hue: -75
Red saturation: -10
Red luminance: 20
Orange hue: -7
Orange saturation: 4
Orange luminance: 4
Yellow hue: -6
Yellow saturation: 13
Yellow luminance: 1
Green hue: 2
Green saturation: 20
Green luminance: 13
Aqua hue: -30
Aqua saturation: 19
Aqua luminance: 10
Blue hue: -6
Blue saturation: 9
Blue luminance: 6
Purple hue: 22
Purple saturation: 25
Purple luminance: 14
Magenta hue: -28
Magenta saturation: 28
Magenta luminance: 0
Sharpening:
amount: 60
radius: 0.7
detail: 20
Camera Calibration:
process: 2012 (Current)
profile: Adobe Standard
Red primary:
hue: 41
saturation: -11
Green primary:
hue: 30
saturation: -30
Blue primary:
hue: -1
saturation: 1
Still working on it but these setting are giving me more "pop" out of the photos I have to work with. Again, this is just a starting point.
Yes, this does not translate to all lighting conditions - of course. But for typical daylight settings I think they look OK (I used Colorchecker along with some of my own biases). Regardless of whether you think this is important, or not, all of the settings listed above have some value, all the time, for every file you open in Lightroom. To my eye the standard LR settings were off and making my files look "flat". So this is just a starting point, but it is based on use of a Colorchecker plus what I like to see for some hues. Next step is to adjust to taste, depending on lighting, ISO, etc... So what I have listed here is not a magic formula, just a recognition that standard adobe settings may not be the best place to start from. That's all.
One thing is for sure, of all the cameras I have used, the OMD EM1 is definitely giving me the most trouble in terms of getting something I am 100% happy with. But I am willing to experiment and try different things and if someone has a suggestion....I'm all ears.
One huge variable for me is that I have stopped using Capture One (after years) and I am now using LR. Maybe the best (for me) solution is just to go back to C1?
Makes sense. We all want to get the most from our images. I tend to agree that I've seen some of that 'flat' look myself (as previously commented on). I'd like to get this dialed in as well and I can tell you after looking both here and at sites like the ones Bobby linked above (m4/3 users) it is very possible. There are some amazing images in the threads I've looked at.
Can't comment on C1. I've never done more on it than a cursory glance.
Yes, Bobby has linked some great images. And, he himself has some great shots along with others in this thread. In my mind it's not a question of "if" one can get it dialed in but "how and when".
I am starting to be comfortable enough with these files to move over to mirrorless completely (adding Oly to my Fuji system) - though I still have some experimenting to do.
galenapass wrote:
Yes, Bobby has linked some great images. And, he himself has some great shots along with others in this thread. In my mind it's not a question of "if" one can get it dialed in but "how and when".
I am starting to be comfortable enough with these files to move over to mirrorless completely (adding Oly to my Fuji system) - though I still have some experimenting to do.
Don't forget Diego Martin. He's the best m43 landscape shooter on this board … by far! And his work has appeared in the Olympus magazine. Keep showing us your great work, Diego!
galenapass wrote:
Yes, Bobby has linked some great images. And, he himself has some great shots along with others in this thread. In my mind it's not a question of "if" one can get it dialed in but "how and when".
I am starting to be comfortable enough with these files to move over to mirrorless completely (adding Oly to my Fuji system) - though I still have some experimenting to do.
First attempt with my old OM Zuiko 300mm f/4.5 on my E-M1.
This lens produces evil amounts of purple CA. I corrected it in ACR using about 7 on the purple slider in the colour tab of the lens correction module.
Despite still having very little time with this new system, I am starting to see the potential. Went into the backyard late this afternoon and did a few grab shots. My primary goal was to shoot wide open, and for the most part in A mode. Locked ISO at 200, AWB.
One thing I found is it seems I need to adjust the focus area size. I was handholding everything and a bit wobbly, but it seems the focus was not grabbing right where I wanted it to in many cases.
Here is one I liked. SOOC, -2/3 exposure. Exif is intact. Had the format set to 16:9 which I am quite fond of.
Damn it J.D! Sailing season about to end here in Sweden and now you just made me long for summer again even more!
Michael, the focus size is one of the few issues with the Em-5 I have (even after the AF boxes were made smaller). I believe the Em-1 is better as in you can make them even smaller but I'm not sure how small they get. I wish there was a setting as with Panasonic where you can actually choose "pin point" (I think it is called that on the Pana cameras). Tried it on my fathers GF3 and it really is pin point, very small, mostly just a dot exactly where you press the screen.
Wilbus wrote:
Damn it J.D! Sailing season about to end here in Sweden and now you just made me long for summer again even more!
The J/44 number 6107 is the boat I would normally be on but I'm having a lot of trouble with tendinitis at the moment. We're a pretty good crew, TBH and we usually do well. Not to make you feel bad but here she is again:
The J/44 number 6107 is the boat I would normally be on but I'm having a lot of trouble with tendinitis at the moment. We're a pretty good crew, TBH and we usually do well. Not to make you feel bad but here she is again:
I'm sorry to hear about your tendinitis, I hope you get better soon and will be able to get back aboard!
Beautiful photos and a really beautiful boat with classic lines, she looks like a boat should look, unlike the one in the background (not too fond of the design of that one, not sure what type it is either).
Do you club race or class race against other J44's?
