p.2 #1 · STUDIO FLASHES COMPATIBLE WITH POCKET WIZARDS
Ok, don't have much time, but would like to inform you that The Pocket Wizard usinf TT1/AC3 and FlexTT5/AC9 works just as described by the manufacturer. Somehow or other it has managed to lower the AB 1600 output to such an extent that you can even notice the white diffuser creases. Shot at f/8,iso 200 and 1/60 s. I believe that the reason why the AB 1600 was burning the whole picture was due to shooting with the PW for the Speedlight/beauty dish and a trigger cable plugged on my D3s to fire the AB 1600; It doesn't make sense to me, but the fact is there. I took about 20 pics with different settings for both TT5's and I was able to increase the power on the AB 1600 for the background till it was only a perfect white background, but wanted you to see how the AB 1600 can work perfectly well in small environments ... as longa as you are able to control its huge power And now I'm really looking forward to try out its full potential shooting under the bright sun!!
I did "a bit" of retouching to the model's skin, because if you don't mind, I would like to stay married....
By the way, I discovered a great way to create wind without a hair blower or fan; let's see if you can guess how....
p.2 #2 · STUDIO FLASHES COMPATIBLE WITH POCKET WIZARDS
Springer,
I have a few questions about what you are doing or trying to accomplish. First, your wife is lovely and is doing a great job modeling.
1) On the AC3, are all of the mode switches set to either M or Off if not used?
2) Did you set the behavior you wanted in the PW utility for power tracking?
3) Did you do the calibration shots required for the B1600?
p.2 #3 · STUDIO FLASHES COMPATIBLE WITH POCKET WIZARDS
Hi mill4570,
Thanks for the comment about my wife; I'm sure she will be pleased.
1) For this shot I had A and B channels on the AC3 set to Auto
2) Yes I did and it is set to work with it
3) No I did not; I didnīt know you had to do it and frankly I don't even know how it is done
As I say, I'm here to learn and hope to get some hits like yours from the forum.
p.2 #4 · STUDIO FLASHES COMPATIBLE WITH POCKET WIZARDS
mill4570 wrote:
3) Did you do the calibration shots required for the B1600?
I believe Richard is referring to triggering the AB with the camera before you actually take the photo. (Yes/No?) Whenever I change any of the settings on my camera or PW or turn anything off/on I push the shutter button just to make sure everything is working and "calibrated".
p.2 #5 · STUDIO FLASHES COMPATIBLE WITH POCKET WIZARDS
springer wrote:
Hi mill4570,
Thanks for the comment about my wife; I'm sure she will be pleased.
1) For this shot I had A and B channels on the AC3 set to Auto
2) Yes I did and it is set to work with it
3) No I did not; I didnīt know you had to do it and frankly I don't even know how it is done
As I say, I'm here to learn and hope to get some hits like yours from the forum.
Thank you Richard
Springer,
In the studio, I do not have anything in automatic. If some of your lights are in full iTTl, the camera may be fooled when you change your framing or position. The camera may see more or less of the studio strobe, that it can't adjust, and change the speedlights by mistake.
Secondly, make sure the D3s exposure compensation is set to 0. It is global and will add / subtract from the AC3.
My recommendation would be to place the AC3 to manual on all groups. Set the exposures manually to start and then use the +/- wheels on the AC3 to taste. On the studio strobe, what I mean by a calibration shot is setting it's output so it does not have to start with the exposure compensation set to +3 or -3 on the AC3 in order to get a proper exposure.
As an example; your camera is set for f5.6 @ ISO 200. Use your flash meter, and adjust the output of your AB1600 for a that value. Then turn on all of your PW gear for the AB1600. When you fire the first frame it should require no compensation on the AC3. Now you have the full EC range of the AC3 to work with.
p.2 #6 · STUDIO FLASHES COMPATIBLE WITH POCKET WIZARDS
Ok, now I get it... Of course when you shoot at a certain power setting on your AC3, if you drop down the power then you must press the trigger button to reset the flash to its new condition, but in most cases I just fired anyway, just to see how it came out.. Its easier with our digital and memory loaded cameras to just take one more shot knowing that the exposure will be wrong. Yes, it does require an extra shot to recalibrate the flash.
p.2 #7 · STUDIO FLASHES COMPATIBLE WITH POCKET WIZARDS
springer wrote:
Ok, now I get it... Of course when you shoot at a certain power setting on your AC3, if you drop down the power then you must press the trigger button to reset the flash to its new condition, but in most cases I just fired anyway, just to see how it came out.. Its easier with our digital and memory loaded cameras to just take one more shot knowing that the exposure will be wrong. Yes, it does require an extra shot to recalibrate the flash.
If the AB1600 requires you to set it's output to "Full", when using the AC9, then forget what I said about a calibration shot. I use E640s and I can set their initial power anywhere and then tweak it with the AC3.
p.2 #9 · STUDIO FLASHES COMPATIBLE WITH POCKET WIZARDS
Richard, you wrote at the same time I did, so I didnīt read your message. As I explained earlier, for some other reasons I did not have much time to try out the whole system properly and I started where I had left the other day and that was with the full automatic mode in both channel A for the AB 1600- TT5/AC9 and B for the SB-800. C I left in the OFF position.
Whenever I have more time I will try in full manual and using 1 background with the octabox and the AB 1600 with a TT5/AC9, one with an SB-900, TT5 and a fill/hair light with the AB-400 TT5/AC9 that I should get tomorrow. Will try everything out, but right now that is how it was set.
And Richard, I will try the full manual, setting first the main light, in this case the beauty dish and then adjust the rest normally 1 stop lower and finally adjust them to taste. With the flash meter I have there is a problem and it is that being a Sekonic L-358, with the remote triggering module, Since it doesn't work in the CTL (ControlTheLight), I have to set each TT5 to channel 2 where I have set the triggering mode to normal radio, but that means I have to go around to each unit and set them up one by one.... And till I get the operation done on my ankle there is no way I can do that. For the time being I fire them one by one switching the other two on the AC3 to OFF, starting from the main light in the zero or +1 position, see how it looks and do the final adjutments to the f/ setting. the other two will have to be set lower in most cases.
But one thing is clear, I'm just starting to get to know the AB's PW combo and what I see so far is good.
p.2 #10 · STUDIO FLASHES COMPATIBLE WITH POCKET WIZARDS
Yes Richard, I had seen that video and many more prior to deciding which flashes to buy.
One of the features in the AB/AC9 I'm not too keen on is that modeling light tracking, because at the lowest power output settings of the AB, the light it gives is so dim it doesn't help at all when focusing, so I turn the modelling light to its maximum and only turns off when you fire. One other comment regarding the otherwise great Sekonic L-358 is that it seems that the manufacturer has designed and will start selling shortly a new triggering module that is ControlTL friendly, meaning that it will allow you to use the same channel you are using with the Mini TT1 and that is great for me; no need to go around each receiver to change channels..
Check this out:
p.2 #11 · STUDIO FLASHES COMPATIBLE WITH POCKET WIZARDS
springer wrote[/
With the flash meter I have there is a problem and it is that being a Sekonic L-358, with the remote triggering module, Since it doesn't work in the CTL (ControlTheLight), I have to set each TT5 to channel 2 where I have set the triggering mode to normal radio, but that means I have to go around to each unit and set them up one by one.... And till I get the operation done on my ankle there is no way I can do that. For the time being I fire them one by one switching the other two on the AC3 to OFF, starting from the main light in the zero or +1 position, see how it looks and do the final adjutments to the f/ setting. the other two will have to be set lower in most cases.
But one thing is clear, I'm just starting to get to know the AB's PW combo and what I see so far is good.
I believe with the latest firmware for the Mini, you can trigger your lights with it in your hand. The Sekonic has a cordless mode that will look for your flash for almost two minutes. With this setup, you can leave the PW gear on the Control TL channels, have the Mini and AC3 in your hand and trigger your lights that way. The Sekonic is not being used to fire them. It is in "cordless mode" mode, looking for a flash.
p.2 #12 · STUDIO FLASHES COMPATIBLE WITH POCKET WIZARDS
I have the latest firmware, thatīs one of the nice things about these PW's, that when you plug them to your computer via USB you can check for any updates straight away and yes, you can trigger the TT5's with the TT1 in your hand... and if you take with you the Sekonic in the cordless mode and aim it at the flash you want to adjust surely enough it will fire... I hadn't thought of that.. Only thing though is that each time you remove the TT1 from the camera's hotshoe you should reset it once more to make sure it is synchronized with the camera; you know PW states that you should always switch on the TT1 first and then the camera. It's worth a try anyway because I'm sure Sekonic won't be exactly giving away the new module I mentioned...
Thanks once more Richard.
Springer
And now I'm really looking forward to try out its full potential shooting under the bright sun!!
