Guys, I have a question for the MFshooters. Recently, in order to improve my control of DOF, even though I shoot very substantially stopped down most of the time, I have taken to opening wide to focus my shot, then selecting my aperture for shooting. Am I wasting my time, or anyone else doing this as well?
philber wrote:
Guys, I have a question for the MFshooters. Recently, in order to improve my control of DOF, even though I shoot very substantially stopped down most of the time, I have taken to opening wide to focus my shot, then selecting my aperture for shooting. Am I wasting my time, or anyone else doing this as well?
I am not at all as experienced in MF as most other guys here, but so far one of the things I like about using MF lenses is that you get to see exactly whats in focus at your working aperture instead of focusing wide-open and guessing what would be in focus. And with the touch screen it is easy to tap on different parts and see which parts are in focus. So at least for me focusing stopped down at my working aperture is the preferred choice.
16MP NEX-5N sensor in the NEX-7 body? I'd be interested. That would make a great second body for me, alongside my NEX-7. And it would solve my wide-angle issue (I'd just go M).
I don't need an identical body, but it's got to have Tri-Navi and an integrated EVF. Identical body would be ideal though as I have no plans to sell off the 7 anytime soon.
I agree - though I really like the size/dimensions/handling of the NEX-7.
I would think they'd catch on that you should have two basic body sizes/configurations, and just use different sensors to differentiate price points. I don't get the need for a C3.
corposant wrote:
I agree - though I really like the size/dimensions/handling of the NEX-7.
I would think they'd catch on that you should have two basic body sizes/configurations, and just use different sensors to differentiate price points. I don't get the need for a C3.
i like the small size of the C3 for a backup body or when you want to maximise pocket-ability. i wish the C3 had iso 100 though.
i do wish they'd offer both sensor options in all the body sizes, but that would probably be too confusing for customers.
philber wrote:
Guys, I have a question for the MFshooters. Recently, in order to improve my control of DOF, even though I shoot very substantially stopped down most of the time, I have taken to opening wide to focus my shot, then selecting my aperture for shooting. Am I wasting my time, or anyone else doing this as well?
I almost always focus at my shooting aperture and liberally use magnified view to confirm critical focus.
Sean Reid suggests focusing at 2.8 or 4, even if the lens is faster and then stopping down for smaller apertures. He says this will eliminate most focus shift.
i also almost always focus at shooting aperture except shooting stopped down at infinity where i usually open up the lens 2 stops wider than shooting aperture to focus.
makes me wonder if the 7 was ahead of its time and Sonny goofed by putting too many features such as 24 mpixel sensor, trinav, etc, to make a go of the new camera style. All the new ones seem to lack the horsepower and features.
jamach wrote:
makes me wonder if the 7 was ahead of its time and Sonny goofed by putting too many features such as 24 mpixel sensor, trinav, etc, to make a go of the new camera style. All the new ones seem to lack the horsepower and features.
How about a 36 mpixel FF and GO ALL OUT Sony
Joe
I was and am of the opinion that the 7 would have been even more attractive with the 16MP sensor. That said, I'm very happy with the 24MP sensor aside from its difficulties with symmetric or near-symmetric wides. At this point I'd want the 16MP body as a pure wide shooter, keeping the 7 for everything else for its superb resolution (the 7 also has slightly better DR and the noise is a wash if I downsize to 16MP).
I recently picked up a NEX7 to replace my NEX5N and couldn't be happier. My manual focusing went from 5-10 seconds on the 5N (or longer in sunlight) to 2-3 seconds with the 7's viewfinder and a few tweaks. I found this tip on another forum and figured others who use manual focus lenses on the NEX7 could benefit:
after many experiments I like the way FP (focus peak) works with Intensity set to "high", Color to "yellow";
Saturation & Contrast both to "-3", but Sharpness up to "+3" (incidentally these also improve EVF harsh and garish defaults, to yield more natural rendering of scenes and colors);
