I've been wanting to try out off camera flash/multi-light setups for a while now, but was somewhat put off by budget (been looking at the Strobist kits).
I was in my local Habitat for Humanity Restore yesterday (not my usual source of used photo gear) and saw what looked like a complete Norman 200B portable flash system, including a second flash head, all connector cords (as far as I could tell) and a really solid camera bracket (second head had a mount that appeared to be for a light stand). Asking price is $150.
Assuming they work, two questions:
Are they worth the price?
What is the best way to trigger them with my Canon EOS cameras (without frying the camera)?
The 200b units are built like tanks and very useful. Drawbacks are they somewhat bulky and just 3 power settings unless it comes with one of their auto heads. Those can be dialed down and allow more power control. I started my career with 3 of them back in college and used them until just a few years ago. But they were still working great when I sold them. You could add a wein safesync if plugging the Norman in via sync cord, but I would suggest a set of pocket wizards for wireless shooting, and no concerns about triggering safey. If all is working, the price is very reasonable.
I have used the 400B for over 8 years, well worth it. I used the Wein Safesync with no problems. The price is worth it, if I was you, I would go get it and hope that it is still there.
Norman is old school lighting. Rock solid. You'd be surprised what you can do with a couple of these, the right modifiers, and some time to figure out how to best accomplish what you want with what you have.
That's not a bad price. There's always an off chance the pack would need new caps, but odds are pretty high it'll work just fine. I took a pair of 200b packs, and found a bag that fits them, a great big battery, two heads, and two 20' extension cables just perfectly. Makes a great location lighting setup. I got tired of using speedlights (with modifiers) outdoors...there just never seemed to be enough power. The 200b offers more power, and pretty fast recycle times. I have a Lastolite EX box for speedlights, and I made a custom metal plate to mount one of the LH-2 heads for the Norman on it...the light quality is great and it's easy to set up/break down/pack around. They do only have three stops of adjustment...it would be nice to have them continuously variable, but you get used to it. You can use the LH-2 heads with any modifier that uses an umbrella shaft to mount it (like an Apollo, brolly box, etc). You can also use modifiers for Lumedyne and Quantum heads--IIRC they're all the same size. Oh, and I just trigger mine with Cybersyncs...I just have a strip of velcro on the heads I attach the receiver with. These were popular with wedding shooters (stuck on a bracket) back in the '70s, but today I think they're best left to off-camera work.
Anyway, it is old school...but can be an inexpensive way to get some good location light.
Since it's a 'thrift store' purchase, I'd bet that the batteries are in poor condition. If you're 'electrically literate' you can probably assemble a replacement pack from generic industrial (solder-tab) ni-cad cells. If not, there are a bunch of specialty battery places on the net that will put together a new pack for you for a lot less than it costs for a Norman-branded one. Norman OEM batteries aren't inexpensive.
Here's a price list from one place that rebuilds Norman batteries. (Caveat: I've never used this company myself.) http://dasaga.com/rebuilds.htm
If there is a Batteries Plus store near you give them a try. I have had them replace old cells in my Hensel Porty and a DCB battery. Cost about $40 and they soldered it into the battery slidey thingy.
There's a secondary heat sensing circuit in the Norman batteries that is apparently required in order for the batteries to actually work in the unit. I took a battery to the BatteriesPlus in Culver City and they had the cells, but had no idea what to do with that circuit. In theory you just desolder it and add it in to the new cells, but in practice, those parts are often corroded beyond recognition.
The $80 price for newly built batteries is from Dasaga is still considerably less than new Normans, which are something like $120.
Batteries are always the weak link in portables and you always need more.
What I did for batteries with mine was I took a big 10AH NIHM battery pack (I think it's for an RC application) and made a wire set that's terminated in the Cinch connectors the Norman packs use. It powers two 200b packs. I have no idea how many flashes it's good for because I've never run low while using it...but it must be a lot. You can use any 12V power source if you have the connectors to hook it up to the packs.
Making this old gear work is easier (and cheaper) if you're a DIY type... I think I'm into the whole set (2 packs, 3 heads, cords, battery, bag) for about $350. The battery was about $70 IIRC.
Here's a double bracket I welded up that holds a Cybersync receiver and two LH-2 heads (or speedlights). Gives 400W/S of output if you really want it.
I appreciate the feedback. I finally had the chance to take a better look at the components and the battery is toast. I'm wondering if there is a way to test the rest of the electronics and flash tubes without investing in a replacement battery first (aside from finding someone in my area with a working 200B battery pack).
Based on the printed materials in with the components, the set was used by a school photographer - interesting handwritten diagrams and notes for posing classes and setting up the lights/camera - and doesn't look particularly beat up.
I just bought a very pristine 200B Before I took it it was setup internally with the proper electronics for a 3 volt trigger. Two new gel cell batteries and other items for a song. Good this also is parts aren't hard to find but these generally outlive the shooter.
If you are interested shoot me a PM and I can get you in touch with a very knowledgeable person that knows these inside out. These are very good and solid units. Instead of using a shoulder strap I'd suggest converting to a waist belt.
