Sunny, if you want even better results increase your SS, they are still a bit too slow unless you are purposely trying to incorporate slight blur/movements.
So the OP sent in the camera while all of this useful info was being shared back and forth? Alrighty then.
Given the latest images posted I'm not convinced whatever Canon did is a fix or will really help. Why? Because this is like comparing apples to oranges. We saw 100% crops (or something close) the first time and not now. The first set of images were taken indoors at high ISOs and with extremely slow shutter speeds for sports action; these appear to be outdoors with higher shutter speeds and low ISO. Seriously, go back indoors, use the same super-slow shutter speeds, high ISOs, no single-point focus and then post 100% crops of the images. I'll bet money we'll see the same results as the first set of images in this thread. Almost guaranteed.
So, does that mean the camera needs to go back to Canon? Doubtful. At least not until the OP has tried some of the valuable suggestions offered in this thread. Center point only, * button focus, shutter speeds high enough to stop action.
Scott Sewell wrote:
So the OP sent in the camera while all of this useful info was being shared back and forth? Alrighty then.
Given the latest images posted I'm not convinced whatever Canon did is a fix or will really help. Why? Because this is like comparing apples to oranges. We saw 100% crops (or something close) the first time and not now. The first set of images were taken indoors at high ISOs and with extremely slow shutter speeds for sports action; these appear to be outdoors with higher shutter speeds and low ISO. Seriously, go back indoors, use the same super-slow shutter speeds, high ISOs, no single-point focus and then post 100% crops of the images. I'll bet money we'll see the same results as the first set of images in this thread. Almost guaranteed.
So, does that mean the camera needs to go back to Canon? Doubtful. At least not until the OP has tried some of the valuable suggestions offered in this thread. Center point only, * button focus, shutter speeds high enough to stop action....Show more →
Scott,
There is more than 1 thread, since you had it moved from the sports forum to this one, and there was already 1 thread on this topic with a little diff pics. if you search you'll find it.
the camera was not sent when info was being shared..it was sent after i tried things that were mentioned already.
Yes it did NEED to go to canon...the difference is day and night. maybe you have some fascination with the camera that it can't be broken/wrong..and only the person using it is.
Additionally i guess canon arbitrarily decided to change the focus assembly because...wait for it..there was nothing wrong with the camera?
Welcome to the website for the photography department of Sports Illustrated Magazine
For some reason the site never updated to 1DMKIII or MKIV. The settings for the MKIII were significantly different from setting up a MKII. When the focus problems came up with the MKIII Canon claimed we just did not understand the new settings.
When I first started using the 1DMKIII the settings were different enough from the MKII that I purchased the Arthur Morris Guide. The BIF guys really wring all they can from an AF system.
1D MARK III USER’S GUIDE
I just purchased this MARK III USER’S GUIDE from Arthur Morris.
It costs $20 dollars but if you plan on shooting BIF, probably no better source. http://www.birdsasart.com/MARK%20III%20USER%20GUIDE.htm
Also, do a search on YouTube “1D III settings”.
There are a couple of GREAT videos on there where they walk you through each and every custom setting, and tell you why they did it.
I'll be honest, shoot me for being the messenger if you wish, but I'm not really seeing an improvement with your last batch of shots. The shots are still soft and using too low a shutter speed at times. I'm certainly not seeing a "night and day" difference with regards to your original shots. i'm glad that you have had the camera serviced and sorted, but you either still need to work on your technique or there is still something wrong with the camera or lens. 1/800 shutter speed should be enough to get some great shots, but I'm not seeing images that I expect from a 1D3
I found the 1D3 a great camera to use for sports, even with a "budget" Sigma lens. I'm just a dad with a camera so not a high skill level shooter by any means. I think you need to look again at the camera and your technique to find where the issue lies, you should be getting better results than what we are seeing here
jj_glos wrote:
I'll be honest, shoot me for being the messenger if you wish, but I'm not really seeing an improvement with your last batch of shots. The shots are still soft and using too low a shutter speed at times. I'm certainly not seeing a "night and day" difference with regards to your original shots. i'm glad that you have had the camera serviced and sorted, but you either still need to work on your technique or there is still something wrong with the camera or lens. 1/800 shutter speed should be enough to get some great shots, but I'm not seeing images that I expect from a 1D3
I found the 1D3 a great camera to use for sports, even with a "budget" Sigma lens. I'm just a dad with a camera so not a high skill level shooter by any means. I think you need to look again at the camera and your technique to find where the issue lies, you should be getting better results than what we are seeing here ...Show more →
maybe after shooting for years with the 1dIII i'll get better images . is it a vast improvement from what i was getting before...yes...did i change my technique..no...that won't be a right test. Am i gettinig many more shots in focus and sharp..yes.
do i need to improve my technique..yes..its work in progress.
do some people have lovefest with the camera that it can never be wrong..yes
did this camera require to be reworked/checked...yes.
you're not seeing images you expect from a 1dIII...thats what RobG said too when he first found the issue..so was it his technique or his camera? is it previous production model or after the fixes were implemented..i don't know..
basically..step 1 of the troubleshooting process has been done...which was to test and have the camera sent it. now that the camera is back..it does show improvement...and we move onto step #2.
however for someone to insiniuate (not you) that camera didn't require to be fixed blahblah..is just bucket full of you know what.
Hey, are they playing on fake turf? I would guess so. Wait until you have some hot days with the heat waves coming off the turf... the 1DIII will be all over the place with focus, as will pretty well any AF system, but I found the 1DIII way more sensitive to this.
You got a lot of great tips in this thread. Have you been implementing any of the suggestions? Of the things that came to mind, I would recommend against using the outermost AF points for AI Servo. Just never seemed to be as consistent IMO from my experience. Also, if possible, set the exposure manually. Pick an ISO and a high enough shutter speed. The higher the better really. If they're going from shade to sun a lot, then auto can be more convenient, but for anything inside, with even light, there is zero reason to shoot on anything other than manual. Keep in mind though, with mercury vapor type lighting, as well as some fluorescents, you'll get WB and brightness flicker because the shutter speed is catching the lights at various stages in their on-off cycle. It sucks, but that's the way it is. Either you freeze the action but get the WB and brightness variations, or you're at too slow of a shutter speed. Or, you could set up a bunch of strobes.
You should also do a test: the 300 f/4L IS vs. the 70-200 f/2.8L IS II with the 1.4x teleconverter. I have the 300, and it's an OK but not great lens. There is a high probability you'll actually get better results with the zoom and teleconverter... sharper lens, faster AF.
Don't take it the wrong way...i appreciate all the help, i truly do...however the insinuation that there was nothing wrong with the camera but everything wrong with behind the camera has rubbed me the wrong way.
Not saying there wasn't anything wrong with the camera. Just pointing out from my many years of experience using all of the 1D cameras that despite them being the top Canon cameras, there are certain ways to use them that works better...
rscheffler wrote:
Hey, are they playing on fake turf? I would guess so. Wait until you have some hot days with the heat waves coming off the turf... the 1DIII will be all over the place with focus, as will pretty well any AF system, but I found the 1DIII way more sensitive to this.
You got a lot of great tips in this thread. Have you been implementing any of the suggestions? Of the things that came to mind, I would recommend against using the outermost AF points for AI Servo. Just never seemed to be as consistent IMO from my experience. Also, if possible, set the exposure manually. Pick an ISO and a high enough shutter speed. The higher the better really. If they're going from shade to sun a lot, then auto can be more convenient, but for anything inside, with even light, there is zero reason to shoot on anything other than manual. Keep in mind though, with mercury vapor type lighting, as well as some fluorescents, you'll get WB and brightness flicker because the shutter speed is catching the lights at various stages in their on-off cycle. It sucks, but that's the way it is. Either you freeze the action but get the WB and brightness variations, or you're at too slow of a shutter speed.
You should also do a test: the 300 f/4L IS vs. the 70-200 f/2.8L IS II with the 1.4x teleconverter. I have the 300, and it's an OK but not great lens. There is a high probability you'll actually get better results with the zoom and teleconverter... sharper lens, faster AF....Show more →
yes i have..i have gone back to using the back AF button...and shooting more in Manual setting and higher iso/speed for night games (just shot 1 today)
The shots i posted i forgot to shoot in manual since it was pretty bright outside and was getting pretty high shutter with ISO 100/200.
Tonights game was late in teh evening with the flood lights so the exposure is all over the place..so reading up on that now.
I hardly use the 300F4 mainly the 70-200, haven't tried with the 1.4...i guess i should for some better reach.
Yes they are on artificial turf..enclosed on the sides..
if you need that much documentation to enable you to use the camera for its intended use, something is definitely wrong. 
