So the Leitax site says their adapter cannot be used on the 100-300 because "even having screws at the base of the mount, our mount cannot be used on them because the screw positions are not coincident."
So I was thinking to just get a normal CY/Eos adapter and drill / taper holes myself. Is there something to watch out for on the 100-300 like there is on the 35-70 (which reportedly almost falls apart when the mount screws are removed!)?
You could also get a Leitax (wide mount) adapter and drill holes at the right positions. This is what David Llado told me when I emailed him about it.
When you go this route, I think you'll want to do it properly and use a good drill press.
Sounds good, I have access to a drill press here.
Wondering why I should go with Leitac though? For one Leitax adapter I could buy 4 or 5 cheap ones and drill the holes. I know they are nicely black anodized, but not sure if it's worth it...
jotdeh wrote:
I know they are nicely black anodized, but not sure if it's worth it...
Not for the anodization, but for the precise fit and finish. Better than the mounts of some OEM lenses, according to some people. With cheap adapters the hole for the locking pin usually is too big (pretty much with all of my adapters), to name one thing.
Thanks Aham, I think this is one of those situations where I feel bad whatever I do: I get the cheap ones and complain about an annoying tiny bit of play, or I get the Leitax and think it's completely insane to afford to be so picky, haha!
jotdeh wrote:
Thanks Aham, I think this is one of those situations where I feel bad whatever I do: I get the cheap ones and complain about an annoying tiny bit of play, or I get the Leitax and think it's completely insane to afford to be so picky, haha!
In life you get what you pay for. But when your €10 mount from Guangxu Province starts to corrode because the metal came from a recycled 1977 Yugo, you won't get much sympathy here...
That little bit of "play" - looseness between the lens adapter and lens - can be easily tightened by the use of aluminum tape.
Overlay a square of aluminum tape to the face side of the adapter - the surface that touches the lens - cut the tape to the profile of the lens using a new sharp razor.
Reference the attached link - only the brass shoulder of the adapter needs to be taped. Razor the oversized square of tape to that circular raised brass-ish shoulder. The aluminum tape is thinner than a piece of paper with a very sticky - high bond adhesive.
This method is best for adapters that stay on the lens as the aluminum is soft and would not be a good method to use for frequent removal of the adapter.
mMontag, I think what Aham is referring to is the small hole (sometimes slot) that the camera body clicks into to prevent the lens from rotating. So that is actually a part that would get engaged / disengaged repeatedly. Not sure what would be a good way to tighten it...
Yes, I know what is being refered - messing with the oversize hole or trying to tention the wire keeper is futile. I've tried and used many methods to tighten adapters - the tape method works best and does not loosen once in place. It's the next best thing to a Leitax.
p.1 #11 · Custom "Leitax" for CY 100-300 on Canon?
@mMontag: It seems that what you're describing is a remedy for play between the lens and the adapter. If the hole in the adapter for the locking pin of the camera body is too small, aluminium tape isn't going to help, leaving you with play between the adapter and the camera.
p.1 #12 · Custom "Leitax" for CY 100-300 on Canon?
If you can afford it, get a Leitax. The Chineses cheapo's are just that; cheapo's.
I use Leitax mounts and it feels like it is a Canon original lens. Infinity is where it should be, at the end of the focus. No play whatsoever, I really trust my expensive Contax lenses with them.
