p.1 #1 · Question on metering modes and compensation
I'm curious about my Canon 40D metering modes and exposure compensation settings. There are always differing scenarios of course, but as a rule of thumb how do you set these for the differing lighting. I usually use spot metering, but with the other setting options - do you change your settings for the various lighting conditions? Spot metering is good for the most part, but tends to blow highlights in say a bird in a tree branch (sometimes in full or partial shade) with the bright sky behind them. Same for birds in flight. Then there are the duck shots on reflective the water surface. I struggle to determine which setting is best for which situation. I know that for some of these questions a flash and better beamer would be beneficial but I can't afford one just yet
Also - same question on using the exposure compensation setting for the differing lighting situations.
I live in Florida which has abundant sunshine and a wide variety of lighting conditions throughout the day.
Thanks in advance for any advice or suggestions - just trying to learn and progress with my hobby...
p.1 #2 · Question on metering modes and compensation
Maybe I can help.Nikon..Canon Pretty much the same. I constantly change my metering and exposure compensation as conditions and backgrounds change(I shoot in manual with auto ISO on alot) .Spot metering is great when the object is not moving. If it is and the spot moves off the object for a fraction of a second the exposure goes off.For moving objects I will use matrix metering and use exposure compensation to expose for the animal,As far as - 1 1/2 stops for a white bird in sun or plus 2/3 of a stop for an osprey.
Another thing I will do is use AE lock and meter on the bird or something the same brightness and lock it in. I make sure I have my command dials set up the way i like.you should be able to make every adjustment for metering/shutterspeed/ISO?aperture/and auto focus without ever taking your eye out of the viewfinder.
. If you practice enough and get to know your camera you should be able to go from matrix to spot and change your shutterspeed and auto focus mode in 1-3 seconds.
I am sure 100 people will have100 diffirent ways but the thing is get to know your camera and what settings work as conditions change.If your camera is not good with
high ISO then shooting auto ISO is not an option.Same with focus modes, every camera is a little diffirent.
Shoot shoot and then shoot more..I hope that helps a little. Doug
p.1 #3 · Question on metering modes and compensation
I tend to use spot metering when I have a subject that is heavily backlit if I do not have a flash. If it's pretty even light I will tend to use center weighted metering.
I sometime will change due to the colors of the birds too. If you have a black and white bird (I find these hard to expose without blowing the highlights or under expose the blacks) I usually try center weighted. That's just me thought I'm not a pro so I would like to see what others have to say.
p.1 #4 · Question on metering modes and compensation
Bump>>> Bringing this back up because I think it really important to hear how others shoot.So much talent around here.Tim ,Mike,Tony,Shasoc.Conrad.what are your thoughts on how you meter and AF?? Enough of posting great images and sucking up compliments... though well deserved...How about sharing how you go about it.Tony has shared how important a blind is as well as giving links.Come on give us some insight on how you go about it....Bueller....Bueller... Doug
p.1 #5 · Question on metering modes and compensation
I'll take a step back from sucking up compliments Doug. I post all my exif data for all my shots. If people REALLY want to they can learn all they want by downloading an exif plugin and studying the exif data from other peoples pictures.
I shoot manual exposure, spot meter, AI Servo all the time. I'll adjust shutter speed or aperture in the middle of burst if the subject is moving into different lighting conditions. As an example of that, the Merganser shot in my current post, I spun the shutter wheel two stops when the birds angle changed in relation to the sun. The angle became more oblique, I knew that I needed to change the exposure on the fly. It's all part of knowing your gear.
For moving subjects I normally use center dot for focus. If I get closer to a static bird I'll choose a different dot, what ever dot it takes to put it on the eye with the comp that I want. I also use the AF button on the back of the body to focus and recompose.
I always expose for the subject, I don't compromise the subjects exposure worrying about the background. If the background won't work, I won't take the shot. I constantly check the LCD for hot whites or blocked darks.
p.1 #6 · Question on metering modes and compensation
I prefer using my own brain as opposed to camera's and use manual exposure all the time. As a bird flies against different BG the meter reading will shift rapidly causing underexposure against light BG and blow up against dark BG.
By using manual you set your exposure for the subject and don't have to worry about BG as long as light on the subject itself does not change dramatically.
p.1 #7 · Question on metering modes and compensation
Tim, I live in Florida as well and I know exactly what you mean
One way to improve your exposure is to understand how your camera meters works and use the Histogram. I also know that sometimes we don't have time to look at the histogram, especially when it comes to IF shots.
However, if you are really serious about getting good exposure than the best way is to use Spot metering and Manual Mode. You must understand that in this case the camera bases all exposures on "midtones" also referred as 18% Grey. So if you shoot a mid-toned subject, let's say a GBH, your camera will give you a "right" reading of the exposure and you don't need any aperture compensation.
Different story with a white subject or a dark subject. No camera's light meter will give you an accurate exposure in these cases, so you need to compensate. So, if you meter a white subject your camera will give you an exposure that will make your subject look mid-toned, i.e gray. In this case you'll need to open up (compensate) the aperture to allow more light. Usually at least 1stop.
Opposite with dark subjects, rendered as grey (lighter) from your camera reading and therefore you'll need to stop some light coming in. Again, at least 1 stop.
Now for birds IF there are a few variables to consider
Light or Dark subject
Light or dark bg
Size of the subject against the bg.
Also the angle the light is hitting your subject.
This is just a quick guide, on which I base my compensation, with the purpose to better understand the camera reading (I use Canon, so not sure about Nikon Cameras)
Light small subject against light bg: positive compensation about +1
Dark small subject against light bg: positive compensation about +2
Light large subject against light bg: positive compensation about +2
Dark large subject against light bg: negative compensation about -1
Light small subject against dark bg: negative compensation about -2
Dark small subject against dark bg: negative compensation about -1
Light large subject against dark bg: positive compensation about +1
Dark large subject against dark bg: negative compensation about -2
These values are only starting points. You still need to check the Histogram and refine the aperture compensation accordingly.
I don't use spot metering with IF shots.
Once you get the hang of this you'll do the aperture compensation w/o thinking. It will become a second nature
Hope this helps
Socrate
P.S. There are cases, especially in FL, when you get extreme tonal ranges so you may need to give up something, either the darks or the highlights, in order to still have an image you may still keep.
p.1 #8 · Question on metering modes and compensation
Tim Kuhn wrote:
I'll take a step back from sucking up compliments Doug. I post all my exif data for all my shots. If people REALLY want to they can learn all they want by downloading an exif plugin and studying the exif data from other peoples pictures.
I shoot manual exposure, spot meter, AI Servo all the time. I'll adjust shutter speed or aperture in the middle of burst if the subject is moving into different lighting conditions. As an example of that, the Merganser shot in my current post, I spun the shutter wheel two stops when the birds angle changed in relation to the sun. The angle became more oblique, I knew that I needed to change the exposure on the fly. It's all part of knowing your gear.
For moving subjects I normally use center dot for focus. If I get closer to a static bird I'll choose a different dot, what ever dot it takes to put it on the eye with the comp that I want. I also use the AF button on the back of the body to focus and recompose.
I always expose for the subject, I don't compromise the subjects exposure worrying about the background. If the background won't work, I won't take the shot. I constantly check the LCD for hot whites or blocked darks.
Just want to say that I do look at the Exif info on the posts here that have them and do learn a lot from that. As far as adjusting aperture or shutter speed during an in flight burst - I'm not sure my dexterity will ever allow that! It's all I can do to just keep the subject in the focus spot
p.1 #9 · Question on metering modes and compensation
Shasoc - Thank you for the detailed post on this subject. I definitely need to knuckle down and become proficient with manual mode, greyscale, over/under compensation etc... This gives a great foundation to build upon - thanks again!
p.1 #10 · Question on metering modes and compensation
I've not graduated to Manual shooting yet. I shoot 99% Tv mode. All I care about is as little blur as possible. I look for clean separation between subject and BG before I even touch the shutter. Exposure adjustment on the fly is tough as you can imagine. I usually hope to find the subject perched and wait for flight. If the subject is dark against a light BG, I intentionally blow the sky to expose the subject properly. If the subject is light against the dark BG, again I expose for subject only. I almost always use evaluative, very seldom spot meter. My AF is set to minimum sensitivity. My ISO is usually between 400-1600 with 800 being my goto setting. My default SS is 1/1250s with a range of 1/800s as a minimum to whatever highest SS I need for the right exposure. So as you can see... my shooting is quite clunky compared to others that shoot manual But it works for me. In the end, a histogram and blinky check is constantly being conducted for a good exposure. Oh yeah, I also only use the "+" shaped AF center group on my 7D, and inner 9 points AF group on my mkIV (I'm still trying to get used to this new camera) Also an eye level image acquired with some creative positioning before pressing the shutter helps in making great photographs!
p.1 #11 · Question on metering modes and compensation
There is more than one way to skin a cat. Many use manual exposure and that can be handy. This is one area where camera features can make a big difference. I don't know what features the 40D has but on the 7D and 5D2's I use you have three custom setup positons on the dial. I have one for manual exposure and one for Av. Manual exposure works really well if your shooting a subject in reasonably consistent light - set and forget. I tend to use Av mostly and have the shutter button set so that it locks exposure. I will generally use spot metering for most brownish or greyish coloured animals/birds and this is fine obviously if you have a white or black bird its going to through things off so I would meter of something that is neutral then hold the shutter butten depressed at half way while I shoot the series of images I want (all the while using my thumb on the AF button as needed). An example of this is when I was shooting wild dogs in botswana recently. They have black patches on them which can throw the spot meter off and they move around a lot. Essentially I would spot meter on one of their brown patches then hold the shutter button halfway to lock exposure for as long as needed - for minutes if necessary recomposing, refocusing all the while.
p.1 #12 · Question on metering modes and compensation
Thanks guys. Tim you just recieved some great information from the above posts.There is no one magic formula but you will see some common themes as far as getting exposure on your subject and autofocus. Doug
p.1 #13 · Question on metering modes and compensation
That's what is so great about this place - the willingness to help others out without hesitation. And people have a lot of fun here and with one another
But it works for me. In the end, a histogram and blinky check is constantly being conducted for a good exposure. Oh yeah, I also only use the "+" shaped AF center group on my 7D, and inner 9 points AF group on my mkIV (I'm still trying to get used to this new camera) 
Tim you just recieved some great information from the above posts.There is no one magic formula but you will see some common themes as far as getting exposure on your subject and autofocus. Doug