Fred Miranda wrote:
Update:
I shaved the edges of the Lee FK holder (It now looks more rounded). Now I don't get any vignetting when turning the holder. I also got a couple more mm free vignetting when shifting. I'm using the same custom holder with all my other landscape lenses (24TSE and 85TSE)
Fred
I was wondering what edges of the holder did you shave?
Mike K wrote:
Andy,
Where you report 6-7mm shift available w/o vignetting , this is shift parallel to the direction of the filter holder slots? How much shift is available orthogonal to the direction of the filter holder slots?
Mike K
Mike - sorry for the delay in answering the Q.
With just one spacer (enough to hold the 3.0 OD filter, for example) it is the ring that becomes visible at the limit (i.e in the corners) At that same point, a second spacer to hold a second filter, the spacer/slotmaker begins to show up sooner. These are all with the slots either parallel or at right angles to the ground plane. For example, with vertical slots, holding a polarizer 4x4 and GND, needing two slots, there's not much shift sideways in landscape mode, but you could shift up or down. I see this as a nice ability to use filters but getting shifts and filters together is quite limited.
The SW 150 clamps in front of and behind the fixed hood of the 14-24 lens. Lee was asked many times during the development of this holder and they replied that it was not (yet??) in their plans to modify the holder to fit the Canon 17 TSE (which doesn't have any hood). Note that it uses 150mm (6") wide filters.
Very nice setup Fred! I have a similar filter holder I made for my 16-35 f/2.8 II. A friend came up with the idea a few years ago and showed me how to do it. Same idea, cut out the inner ring of an 82mm WA adapter with a dremmel tool, epoxy it to a spare lens hood (mounted backwards). Allows the use of a normal (slim) polarizer with no vignetting, and is very fast to put on/off in the field. This same design will also work nicely with the 17-40L.
This is the 16-35 II with a Hoya HD slim polarizer mounted. I will usually set the polarizer first then clip on the adapter.
I am sending this out to a shop to get a custom made holder a la Fred M. Just need to know one thing: what is the distance from the rim of the lens to the outermost point of the bulbous element?
Rajan Parrikar wrote:
I am sending this out to a shop to get a custom made holder a la Fred M. Just need to know one thing: what is the distance from the rim of the lens to the outermost point of the bulbous element?
You can measure the lens cap to get the number, can't you?
I missed this until I saw the link (from a few days ago) in the Zeiss 15 thread. Just wanted to say thanks for posting this procedure. I'm always interested in ways to adapt filters to lenses that weren't originally designed to accept them.
For CP use one could use the Lee 4x4" CP filter.
It appears that limited horizontal shift with a vertically aligned filter (or vice versa) is limiting.
I too have seen a few other adaptations with cutting up an extra cap. Its obvious that the reason there is no hood for this lens is that it would really have to be huge to clear possible tilts and shift movements.
Mike K
Hi Mike: I see you linked my conversion. I have used it for a long time now, and have some observations.
If I could start over, I would use a lens cap because my rig will change the focus if bumped. It can be dealt with but does slow you down especially when tilting for near and refocusing for far. The 17TSE produces stunning results when perfectly focused and disappointing when not.
I have the Lee hood and a 105mm BW filter. I can use on the 17 but get vignetting, Since many UWA shots need a pano crop anyway, its easy to eliminate. But I have not been happy with the uneven sky even when the polarizing effect is backed off. I just don't use it now below 35mm.
This lens needs a hood, flare that I never saw has ruined many pictures.
I have noticed I get sharper images when I use no filters. I am not sure if its misfocus or some sort of interaction between the flat front filter and the bulbous lens. The issue is strange. I can get very sharp foreground and infinity but soft sides.
This has been hard to repeat and could be just critical focus. I do note that the sides go soft faster than elsewhere when focus is off.
Edit, I found this post while searching for a manufactured adapter. I see that lee has one for the Nikon 14-24, why not the Canon 17TSE? I wonder why somebody like RRS has not made one? Maybe I will email them. I already have a home made adapter and would like one made in a machine shop.
Roland W wrote:
The extra 7 mm of diameter should in theory give about an additional 2.5 mm of available shift before problems show up, so consider that as you decide how to proceed.
Removing the adapter from the modified lens cap after it has been bonded on could be anything from easy to very hard, depending on how clean the surfaces were when you bonded it, and how much epoxy is actually holding things together. If it is "very easy", you probably do not want to use it that way in the field, so you might try flexing it and pulling on it to see if it comes apart. If it does, you can go for the modified metal ring. If it does not come apart easily, you will need to decide how much you want more shift. I would probably not recomend the removal of the inner metal ring while the lens cap part is still bonded on, but you may get away with it. The worst that may happen is that you damage the plastic cap portion, and need to get another one to modify.
I have noted that all the Lee Wide Angle adapters seem to have the same outer portion, with only the inner part being different for each adapter size. That means if you were modifying the adapter to remove the inner ring, you could start with any Wide Angle adapter that you have or that happened to be in stock. That had me realize that I have a Wide Angle adapter with a smaller size that I no longer need, so I will likely try to modify it, and keep my 82 mm Wide Angle adapters available for my two 82 mm wide angle lenses.
Update: I posted this while you were cutting your inner ring out, and missed the previous post. Thanks for being first at trying it, so that we all know it is fairly easy. ...Show more →
Or just leave it in the camera bag a year as I did with mine and the 2 part epoxy failed and the ring fell off in the bag.
My next attempt will be with a lens cap. You really need this adaptor. I was at Capitol Reef and absolutely needed a 17mm lens and a ND grad. But when I reached for the home made adaptor, I found the epoxy had failed. Next version will be with a lens cap, but I would like to find a machine shop to do it right and maybe attache the ring with screws.
I hardly ever need tilt with this lens, but often want shift. Vignetting is often solved by a crop as this wide angle is usually better in a pano crop..
Fred
Have you tried using a really strong ND filter with this set-up? I have on occasion used the Lee Big Stopper with my 17TSE and a filter holder made up of a bit of ventilation ducting and the Lee tandem adapter. I chose the tandem adapter as it had a larger aperture (84mm) than any of the lens adapter rings (I did this ages ago before seeing your post about modifying the 82mm one). However, I invariably get a bit of flare - I'm guessing through light leakage or internal reflections. Spraying the inside black may help with the latter, plus I'm not sure that the tandem adapter gives as tight a seal as a lens ring adapter...
It would be interesting to know if anyone's had success with such strong filtration with this lens.
Thanks, Lizzie
We really should make this thread sticky... And as we accumulate more useful threads like this one, maybe have a sub-forum for all the tips and tricks.
LizzieShepherd wrote:
Fred
Have you tried using a really strong ND filter with this set-up? I have on occasion used the Lee Big Stopper with my 17TSE and a filter holder made up of a bit of ventilation ducting and the Lee tandem adapter. I chose the tandem adapter as it had a larger aperture (84mm) than any of the lens adapter rings (I did this ages ago before seeing your post about modifying the 82mm one). However, I invariably get a bit of flare - I'm guessing through light leakage or internal reflections. Spraying the inside black may help with the latter, plus I'm not sure that the tandem adapter gives as tight a seal as a lens ring adapter...
It would be interesting to know if anyone's had success with such strong filtration with this lens.
Thanks, Lizzie...Show more →
Hi Lizzie,
I have struggled with this as well.
First remember that the 82mm Lee adapter is a wide angle type ring and will give you more clearance that a non-WA larger diameter rings.
Regarding flare: This lens is a little prone to flare, especially when the sun is at around 180 degrees. You will see the flare on the LCD and it's easy to place your hand or a cardboard to block the light from either sides. However, I believe you are referring to flare caused by long exposure light leakage.
The 17mm TS-E lens cap is not 100% sealed when attached. One may not notice that when using the original lens cap but once opened to create this adapter you will see that it lets a very small amount of light come through its back.
With exposures up to 5 seconds, it won't be an issue but once you start using 6 or 10-stop ND filters and therefore longer exposures, it could be a problem. The solution I found most convenient is to use a head band or rubber band and wrap around the back of the adapter. That will block light 100% and I have tested it with 30 second exposures without seeing any light leakage on my pictures.
Fred
Thanks Fred
Yes I have both the w/a and standard 82mm rings and there's a huge difference. I'll need to buy another of the w/a ones if I want to try and replicate your holder - I do remember someone doing something similar a couple of years back but I resented the fact that a spare hood costs best part of £50 here if I recall and so I thought I'd do my own thing. I need to do some more work on it to see if I can get it more light tight, though I think I did try with a band at one point.
For normal flare problems I have a big bit of cardboard in my camera bag - easier to hold in the right place than my hand!
Anyway, more experimenting required but good to know it can be done. Below is an example from a couple of years ago - 95 sec exposure - only two relatively small problem areas here and quite easy to clone out in this instance, but not always the case! There was a reasonable amount of shift here too though I'm afraid I forget how much... http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7231/6999528558_3e1aa7c4ab_b.jpg
Thanks again, Lizzie
I have made a filter holder using the cap and a step down filter ring where you can screw in 82mm filters. I used Sing Ray Gold N Blue and Vari Nd Filter.
www.youtube.com/watch?v=W-2IqxYr71o&featu re=g-upl
Added a second video on how to make a filter holder using the TS-E 17mm lens cap and the Lee Foundation Filter Holder
