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Archive 2012 · New to lighting. Need opinons.

  
 
buckeyeguy1
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p.1 #1 · New to lighting. Need opinons.


Hi all. New to the forum. I have been looking through the forums for a couple weeks and have found there is a wealth of knowledge here!

First off, my status is an amature. I have only been into photography for the past year and make NO money doing so. Eventually I would like to make it a legit small part-time business for some extra coin when my child starts college (I have almost 18 years for that). I have WAY too much more to learn and practice before I would ever think about being paid to take photographs.

My experience up to this point is portraiture and this is what I am most passionate/interested about. This past November I took my son's Christmas picture using a friends fluorescent studio lights with umbrellas. After using this setup, I am convinced that continuous lighting is not for me and would much rather a flash system.

Since its tax time, I have a little bit of money I was thinking about spending towards some studio lighting. What I would like to accomplish in the long run is enough light to photograph one to eventually 6 people. I absolutely need to be able to photograph one to three subjects for now. I realize that I would need more light sources for six subjects.

My current gear is as follows:
D700
D5000
24-70mm f2.8 AF-S
50mm f1.8G
18-55mm f3.5-5.6G ED II DX
55-200mm f4-5.6G ED IF AF-S DX VR
Manfrotto 055XPROB Tripod Legs
Manfrotto 496RC2 Ball Head
48" Reflector

I am guessing around 85% of the use will be indoors. I will need to keep my budget around $500-800. The setups I was thinking about are not necessarily apples to apples, so I would appreciate your opinions/suggestions.

Setup 1 (Speedlights)
The setup I was thinking about was a SB-700 or SB-910, stand, umbrella and a cheap wireless trigger/receiver set. I am not sure how much more light I would get stepping from an SB-700 to the SB-910, but I believe I could purchase two SB-700s and stay within my budget. This route would give me the flexibility of adding fill flash outdoors which would be nice.

Setup 2
AB800 package that includes one head, stand, umbrella, storage. PCB CyberSync transmitter and one CyberSync plus receiver (just in case I decide to upgrade to a commander later). From what I have read, the Alien Bee line is a good value providing a good start to lighting and also has good customer service. They also seem to retain their value pretty well if I later decided to upgrade/sell. I have thought about two AB400s but am nervous about having buyers remorse for not going to a more powerful head later.

Setup 3
Flashpoint II 620A kit. This has two 300ws heads, stands, umbrellas and a case. I would probably purchase a cheap wireless transmitter/receiver set or the CyberSyncs. This seems like a fair deal, but since it is a house brand head, there are not many reviews out there for them. I did read somewhere that the maintenance cost (lamps) is higher than Alien Bees and I am not sure that they would retain much of their value as compared to other manufacturers.
http://www.adorama.com/FP620AK.html

Setup 4
Elinchrom D-Lite 4 IT kit. It includes two 400ws heads, stands, two 25x25 softboxes, reflector, Skyport wireless trigger and a case. This is obviously at the far end of my budget. I have read a good review here on FM about this package and the person seemed to like it. With the name, I would imagine they would retain their value fairly well, but am slightly nervous about it having the proprietary triggering system. I am not sure if it has the optical trigger or not.
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/674263-REG/Elinchrom_EL_20815KIT_D_Lite_IT_400Ws_2_Light.html

Again, I know these are not apple to apple packages. I kind of like the speedlight route due to the flexibility they provide, but am nervous about not having enough light output to properly expose 3 subjects.

Thanks for any opinions you may have!


Edited on May 17, 2012 at 10:25 PM · View previous versions



Jan 23, 2012 at 01:28 PM
dmacmillan
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p.1 #2 · New to lighting. Need opinons.


First of all, welcome to the forum!

I suggest you do a little more planning and research before buying lighting gear.

You have laid out two basic approaches, speedlights vs monolights. The big problem for those just starting out in lighting who choose speedlights is that you have no modeling lights. If you're experienced in lighting you can "guesstimate" the placement of the lights and refine through chimping. That requires a pretty good understanding of lighting patterns and ratios.

Monolights are more WYSIWYG, but only if you have proportional modeling lights. They are less flexible and portable. They do have more output, but unless you can really reduce the power, this may be a problem.

Tell us more about what kind of photos you plan to take. I see a lot of newbies think they need to get a light kit and try to do traditional portraiture. Most of the results look like bad JC Penny photos. To do traditional portraiture properly, you need a more extensive lighting setup than you can buy for $800 (key, fill, background, hair and kicker light). You also need a lot more space than the average spare bedroom, especially in ceiling height.

What are your short term and long term goals? If either is to capture photos of family and friends, there are other ways to take great photos with minimal or even no use of flashes. Go to the "People" forum and look at the work of Chuck Canerino and Lisa Holloway. Also go the the Wedding forum and see what lovely available light work is being done there. Look up Jeff Ascough on the web.

Remember, there's a big difference between illumination and lighting.




Jan 23, 2012 at 02:06 PM
Skarkowtsky
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p.1 #3 · New to lighting. Need opinons.


Just a heads-up to the OP: a model light is a low wattage, continuous bulb centered in the light head for light/shadow reference while the photographer is lighting a subject, prior to firing the shutter. Think of it as a low watt hot light that is overpowered by the flash when you make a photo.


Jan 23, 2012 at 02:21 PM
buckeyeguy1
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p.1 #4 · New to lighting. Need opinons.


Skarkowtsky: Thanks. I do understand the concept of modeling lights. Reading back in my post, I can see where you thought I did not know the difference between the lamp and the flash.

dmacmillan: I apologize in advance for the length

I see your point on which lighting system to chose: Speedlight vs Monolights. The only experience I have with lighting is with the continuous system I used a couple of months ago. I like the versatility aspect of Speedlights, but would much rather appreciate having the modeling lamps to help with shadows and such. Without experience, I would guess that there is a longer learning curve associated with speedlights due to the initial trial and error period.

I think my goals tie in with the type of portraits I would like to take. Up to the end of November, my main goals were getting out of priority modes and into full manual. This was accomplished by many frustrating hours of low light, handheld, slow shutter speeds with my D5000 and 50 f1.8 lens. The lens helped out tremendously, but I was still only getting around 1/20 of a second wide open. Albeit it was usually pretty dark with limited lighting. This is when my D700 was adopted, then shortly after the 24-70 f2.8.

My goal for the next 2-4 years is to get a small setup to start practicing and learning more one subject portraits. These portraits will include newborns, several young children and several adults. The adults will be torso and up photos. All of course will be as you guessed family and friends. I anticipate them to be your more traditional portraits with black backgrounds. Please note that within this time gap, this is strictly a hobby that I will be able to work on a couple times per week. This is why I am giving myself what I feel is a good time period to accomplish this.

After I get comfortable with how the lights and modifiers work. I would like to start adding different lights to the mix, such as background lights, hair lighting and so on. This is when I would like to be more creative and have a larger setup, doing more full body shots and family portraits. This is also where more money comes into play and I understand that going into it.

I really love ambient lighting, however, I would like to start wading into the studio lighting side of things. I really enjoy some of the images I have seen on here with what looks to be one or two lights, especially the black and whites.

Also as you have brought up room size. The room I am going to use is 15feet x 20feet x 9.5feet high. I understand that the size of light can benefit or curse you as to the room size.

I have looked at a lot of Lisa Holloway's work in the past couple of weeks and absolutely love it. She is quite amazing and really seems to bring out the good in the people she photographs.



Jan 23, 2012 at 04:20 PM
nolaguy
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p.1 #5 · New to lighting. Need opinons.


Hi buckeye,

I was in your shoes early last year and wound up going with an Elinchrom 600RX and BX 250 Ri as a starter system.

I’ve occasionally second guessed not more seriously considering the Alien Bee or Einstein direction but at the time there was a lot of PCB controversy on the forum and frankly it just kinda turned me off to the brand. Lots of people swear by them and as you note, they seem to be a very good value.

Dmacmillan suggests more research – and I’d particularly encourage you to consider what modifier system (softboxes, etc) you’ll grow into. I think most shooters probably spend more money on the modifiers over time than on the lights themselves – and compatibility can be an issue.

The D-Lite 4 IT kit appears to be an attractive entrée into an Elinchrom system and would serve your needs well short term. Over time you’d probably supplement them with other, more powerful Eli lights and use the D-Lites as fill, kickers, etc. The only downsides to the D4s that I’m aware of are: 1) less robust build quality and 2) a fairly long flash duration – you wouldn’t be able to freeze some action but that doesn’t sound like a priority to you.

They are sufficiently adjustable that you wouldn’t run into the excessive light issue Dmacmillan cautions against. They do have optical triggers but I use the Skyport system without problem and while I think I’ll eventually wind up with Pocket Wizards, the built in solution is nice for the time being.

The softboxes included in the D4 kit are smallish – particularly to shoot full length or larger groups, you’ll eventually want to get into 40 to 60” (or larger) boxes – for now, larger umbrellas can suffice, you just can’t as easily control the light spill with an umbrella.

One biggie regardless of the brand you choose is you should invest in a good size reflector or two + stands (this is not the reflector included in the kit that mounts to the moonlight). My limited system is fairly versatile only because my reflector(s) give me additional light sources.

Good luck and I’d invite more experienced FMers to correct any errant comments I may have offered.



Jan 23, 2012 at 05:56 PM
buckeyeguy1
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p.1 #6 · New to lighting. Need opinons.


Thanks nolaguy. While researching the PCB PLM umbrellas on here I noticed it got into a bit of a "heated" debate if you will, so I can see your hesitation.

Before going too far into research, I was going to buy two AB400s, a 32x40 softbox, two umbrellas and lightstands which was going to run me around $725. I figured that later on, I would end up using them as background lights and end up upgrading for main and fill lights.

I am pretty open to light modifiers. From my point of view, they are rather inexpensive when compared to the lights themselves. They are something that I can pick up on at a time when I get a little Overtime money (which happens fairly often). I also have a friend at work that has some ABs who said I could borrow some of his modifiers to test out before buying. Even without any experience, the 24x24 softboxes with the D-Lite 4 IT kit sounded a bit small to me.

Another thing that came to mind if it matters. I don't plan on doing shallow DOF pictures, which would have played a part in the low power range of the lights.



Jan 23, 2012 at 06:59 PM
aborr
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p.1 #7 · New to lighting. Need opinons.


If you decide to get serious about portrature, allocate more of your budget toward modifiers, relectors, stands, etc.

In general, softboxes should be at least as large as your subject. A 2'x3' softbox is fine for head and shoulders portraits, but as others noted, too small for 3/4 length shots. A 3'x4' softbox is fine for 3/4 length shots, but a bit small for a full length standing subject. Larger softboxes, since they're positioned further from the subject than small ones, can be difficult to control in a small room. Too much stray light gets reflected back on the subject from nearby walls and the ceiling. There are solutions for this, like grids, gobos, and black curtains, but they all add complexity to the setup.

Most photographers start out with umbrellas. For a general purpose key light that you can use for small groups, consider a decent sized white relective umbrella. Avoid the tiny ones normally included with 'beginner's kits'. For fill, consider a shooot-through umbrella - size isn't important, here.

You can do a lot with a couple of speedlights and umbrellas, but small battery powered strobes have their limitations. They have tiny directional reflectors that make them largely unsuited for filling a decent sized softbox; they have no modeling lights; and they have limited power. On the plus side, you probably already own at least one of them already.

You probably don't need radio triggers. A 15' PC cord costs less than $20, and pretty much any studio light available today has a built-in optical trigger. If you use speedlights, your D700 already has built-in wireless control that's adequate for the distances you're likely to encounter.



Jan 23, 2012 at 10:57 PM
nolaguy
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p.1 #8 · New to lighting. Need opinons.


As you infer, you can use f settings to control the exposure but studio photographers should be able to pull the lighting back when called for. DOF and focus considerations are simply too important in controlling the image to purchase studio lighting that can’t be ratcheted way down.

Super fine 1/10 stop increments aren’t so critical, but a wide range of lighting power control is. And I suspect you’ll grow to desire significant DOF control the more you shoot in the studio. Everything in focus can become boring at best, and an outright annoyance at worst.

That said, another option with overpowering lights is to keep lots of diffusion fabric on hand. Toss a U-Haul moving blanket over a lamp and you can dim the light in a hurry.



Jan 23, 2012 at 11:38 PM
BrianO
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p.1 #9 · New to lighting. Need opinons.


buckeyeguy1 wrote:
...I have only been into photography for the past year and make NO money doing so. Eventually I would like to make it a legit small part-time business for some extra coin when my child starts college (I have almost 18 years for that). ...Since its tax time, I have a little bit of money I was thinking about spending towards some studio lighting. What I would like to accomplish in the long run is enough light to photograph one to eventually 6 people. I absolutely need to be able to photograph one to three subjects for now. I
...Show more

My take may be different than others' but in looking at your gear list I see that you don't have even one Speedlight at the moment.

Although a studio setup is nice to have, I think it's important to have at least one Speedlight. Especially with a young son, there are going to be many opportunities to catch important moments in photographs, and the speed, portability, flexibility, and advanced metering options of a Speedlight or two will really come in handy.

Before thinking about radio triggers, you can do a lot with the built-in optical slave capabilities that come with Nikon's Creative Lighting System. In addition to at least one Speedlight, I suggest that before buying any other equipment you invest in your knowledge base by buying this book:

http://www.amazon.com/Camera-Techniques-Digital-Portrait-Photography/dp/1584282584#_

Once you've mastered the art of Speedlighting, you'll be well on your way to knowing more precisely what other types of gear will meet your needs.



Jan 24, 2012 at 12:17 AM
buckeyeguy1
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p.1 #10 · New to lighting. Need opinons.


BrianO wrote:
In addition to at least one Speedlight, I suggest that before buying any other equipment you invest in your knowledge base by buying this book:

http://www.amazon.com/Camera-Techniques-Digital-Portrait-Photography/dp/1584282584#_



Looks like a good read. I went ahead and picked it up. You are correct, I do not own a speedlight.

Anyone else reccomend any more books that might help me decide on which way to go for now?





Jan 24, 2012 at 07:36 AM
Mark_L
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p.1 #11 · New to lighting. Need opinons.


I would not drop a load of money and get invested in a system at this early stage. I would buy a nissin speedlight, a reasonable stand and a softbox. Learn with that and you will have a better idea of what you want and where you feel limited - you will then also be able to keep this setup as your 'outdoor' setup.

I'd stay away from umbrellas inside, even in a reasonably sized studio they send light bouncing about everywhere and this will make learning difficult.



Jan 24, 2012 at 09:15 AM
Mr Kris
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p.1 #12 · New to lighting. Need opinons.


buckeyeguy1 wrote:
My goal for the next 2-4 years is to get a small setup to start practicing and learning more one subject portraits. These portraits will include newborns, several young children and several adults. The adults will be torso and up photos. All of course will be as you guessed family and friends. I anticipate them to be your more traditional portraits with black backgrounds. Please note that within this time gap, this is strictly a hobby that I will be able to work on a couple times per week. This is why I am giving myself what I feel is
...Show more

This seems very specific: newborns, children... and adults, torso up, black background. Are you intentionally trying to limit the physical size of your subject for some reason? Here's my take: If your pictures are half decent, friends will ask you to take pictures that aren't only adult torso sized. And you'll probably want to do it, because you actually enjoy it. So I wouldn't focus specifically on making good pictures in this limited set of scenarios. But it could be a good starting point!

In regards to gear: I would say speedlights! Here's my list of reasons:

1. As mentioned, versatility. BrianO covered that.
2. Speed of setup. You mention only being able to work on it a couple times a week, but is that because you are envisioning needing a lot of time for a "setup?" With speedlights, you can setup 2 lightstands with flashes and umbrellas in about.... 3 minutes. Less with practice If you get away from the thought that you need a purpose specific backdrop, you can eliminate having to setup background stands as well. Which brings me to #3...
3. Portability. (I guess really an extension of point 1, versatility.) Anywhere is a "studio." Anything is a "backdrop." If you work outside, you have a free extra light. Yeah, monolights are portable too. But I'd rather carry a duffel of speedlights than a wheelbarrow of monolights and battery backs if I can get away with it.
4. No need for radio triggers. Assuming you go with a speedlight that has a built-in slave. You can go a long way with the optical triggers. I mean... check out Joe McNally. I think he must own everything Nikon makes, but has a bag full of radio triggers that he seems to avoid using at all costs. Yes, there are times when a radio system would be convenient.... and there might be some shots you can't make. So just make a different one!
5. Now, assuming you go with Nikon flashes..... TTL flash metering. No need to meter the flashes or guess the power. That will take one variable out of your learning. (Some may argue that the CLS TTL is difficult to learn... but I disagree. I think it's only because many are used to doing it the old fashioned way. Not that there's anything wrong with that.)
6. Cheaper grip gear. You don't need a crane to support a speedlight.

Disadvantages, and I can really only think of 1.5:
1. Power. You'll certainly have less power. I don't think this will be a concern for studio type shots of individuals or small groups. Small flashes have plenty of power for that. But, you won't be going outside at high noon and overriding the sun with small flashes (well... not 1 or 2 anyway). That's not to say you can't make good pictures in full sunlight.... small flashes, especially with high speed sync, can fill in full sunlight. But you're not going to fight the sun... you'll be working with it.
2. (and this is my "half" reason): Access to less light modifiers, as mentioned previously. This is a half reason, because it's not entirely true anymore. Most "big" modifiers can be adapted to small flash, albeit with less power. And there are flash specific versions of many types of modifiers now. The funny thing is, they're not always cheaper, even though flash specific versions are typically smaller.

If you do go the speedlight route, I own both SB700's and the new SB910. Advantages of the SB910:
1. Slightly more powerful. Up to a stop more powerful in some situations.
2. Capable of using an external battery pack, for faster recycling.
3. The head zooms to 200mm, as opposed to 105ish on the SB700s.
4. If using as a commander, the SB700s only support 2 zones.
5. SB910 has a flash repeater mode.

The 910 is definitely the superior flash but.... is it worth $200 more than the SB700? It was for me, maybe not for everybody. Especially starting out, 2 SB700's is only $100 more than 1 SB910.

I would pick up 2 umbrellas as your first modifiers, since they are so darned cheap and useful. Get the kind with a removable backing, so you can bounce them, or shoot through them. And in shoot through mode, you can control the spill with the backing. I agree with Mark_L about light going everywhere with umbrellas..... to an extent. If you work them up close to your subject, you have much more control, especially if you keep your subject away from your backdrop. (Look up inverse square law and such for examples.)

Photoflex umbrellas are nice- they have fiberglass ribs and I've found them to be far more durable than others.

Websites: definitely visit strobist.com, and read lighting 101 and 102.
Books: Hotshoe Diaries by Joe McNally

For reference, I use both speedlights and monolights. But I really think it's quicker to learn on speedlights. Not necessarily because they're inherently easier, but because I think you'll find it's easy to spend 10 minutes playing with speedlights and do something productive, and I think you'll find yourself playing with them more often than if you go with monolights.



Jan 27, 2012 at 10:11 AM
nolaguy
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p.1 #13 · New to lighting. Need opinons.


Great speedlight overview, Kris. Thanks for taking the time.


Jan 27, 2012 at 01:03 PM
Kisutch
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p.1 #14 · New to lighting. Need opinons.


I started using flash last year and have been nuts about it since. I'd just get one of the kits outlined on the strobist website. The LP-160's have everything you'd want in a speedlite (except maybe thermal protection), are cheap, and super easy to trigger. You could get 2 LP-160s, 2 stands, an umbrella, 3 Cactus V5 triggers, and have a pretty potent kit for around $500.

You can easily run the LP-160's off external power (with 6V SLA battery, 10 amp fuse, and 2 AA battery eliminators) you just have to be careful not to overheat them.



Jan 29, 2012 at 09:26 PM
buckeyeguy1
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p.1 #15 · New to lighting. Need opinons.


Thanks a lot for the replies. I have been looking more and more into speedlights and am pretty certain that I will go that route for now. It does seem that I will get more versatility with them starting out. Plus I can use them later on if I ever decide to get some monolights. It definitely looks like something I should always have in my bag and know how to use.

I think I am going to stick to a Nikon speedlight for now. One reason being is that everything I have (FF wise) is under warranty and I don't want Nikon to blame any possible issues that I could have on a non-Nikon speedlight.

What size should I get? SB-700 or SB-910? I plan on using it indoors 85% of the time (15'x20'x9.5'h). From what I have read, you get one to one and a half stops more of light on the SB-910. Of course to get that, its an extra $220. I have seen some SB-900s on sale on the B/S page for $375 and refurbished from Nikon for $450. From what I have gathered, the SB-910 is the SB-900 with the overheating issue resolved. I am kind of hesitant going the SB-900 route in fear of having the overheating issue.

Physically, size wise I really don't care. I figure that since I have never used one before, I will never know the difference.



Jan 30, 2012 at 04:37 PM
Mr Kris
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p.1 #16 · New to lighting. Need opinons.


Well, how important is the "$500-800" budget you mentioned?

The 910 is certainly better as I outlined, and you pay for it. With unlimited budget, I'd take a dozen of them haha.... If you're interested in a pair of used SB700s, shoot me a pm... I'm slowly upgrading everything to 910s.



Jan 30, 2012 at 09:53 PM
Kisutch
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p.1 #17 · New to lighting. Need opinons.


I don't know the Nikon flashes, but I'm assuming they are similar to Canon 580 ex, etc. I personally would avoid starting out with expensive flashes. If you don't use the ettl (and I doubt you would if you are shooting portraits/studio stuff) then you're gonna chew up your budget for stuff you don't actually need. I started with a Canon 580 ex II and in hindsight it was a major waste of money. The only difference I notice between my two high end Canon speedlites and my 4 LP-160s is that the Canon's have a confusing user interface and are much harder to trigger (they have a PC port at best, and no miniport or optical trigger). I don't know what will work best for you, but just thought I'd share what my experience was.

Will shooting non-Nikon flashes void a warranty? I still have my Canon A2, film rebels, and two Rebel Xti's which have been left out in camera traps in negative temperatures, used underwater, kicked by bears, etc. Never had to warranty a camera before, so (to me at least) it seems odd to base decisions around maintaining your camera warranty.

The good news is you can't go too wrong and you're gonna have a blast learning this stuff.



Jan 30, 2012 at 11:19 PM
honorerdieu
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p.1 #18 · New to lighting. Need opinons.


buckeyeguy1 wrote:
Thanks a lot for the replies. I have been looking more and more into speedlights and am pretty certain that I will go that route for now. It does seem that I will get more versatility with them starting out. Plus I can use them later on if I ever decide to get some monolights. It definitely looks like something I should always have in my bag and know how to use.

I think I am going to stick to a Nikon speedlight for now. One reason being is that everything I have (FF wise) is under warranty and I don't
...Show more

How important is purchasing a dedicated branded flash is for you? Nikon SB-800/900/910 are great... when you need the extra bells and whistles. If you plan to work strictly in manual mode instead if iTTL and CLS, you may want to look into older models like the SB-28 DX or the SB-80DX. Even the cheap, Lumopro does the work.

The biggest expense in the kit doesn't have to be the SB-910. It can be the Pocketwizard Plus II's, which are my preferred triggers.



Jan 31, 2012 at 01:59 PM
cgardner
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p.1 #19 · New to lighting. Need opinons.


Lighting isn't rocket science, you just need to train your brain to consciously understand and reverse engineer the clues you have been reacting to emotionally all your life.

Before buying any more gear I suggest you get a willing volunteer, angle body and face 45° to a north facing window then walk around their face from full, oblique, to profile snapping photos every 5° then compare them.

http://super.nova.org/DPR/Window/WindowAll.jpg
From my window lighting tutorial at: http://photo.nova.org/Window/

Some will look more flattering than others. Don't run and post them to the forum and ask others "Are these any good?" just sit down, look at them critically and figure out why. There aren't many variables with window lighting: angle of light to the face / angle of camera to face. Pose the face to the light so the front is highlighted and it reaches the eyes and mouth then find the angles in that light which look like your ideal mental image of a face and what you see in the movies in close-ups created by actors and cinematographers who know what flatters a face.

If you can "decode" and understand window light you will be able to use any natural or artificial source skillfully. I offer a starting baseline here: http://photo.nova.org/CluelessToCompetent/ Getting from competent to creative is just matter applying that competence in ways that are limited only by your imagination.

Optimal exposure in the holistic sense is when the final image you present to the viewer matches what they would see by eye. Natural looking lighting is simply a matter of understanding natural light comes from overhead at an average downward angle of 45° and faces seem "normal" when lit that way for the simple reason we see them lit that way most of the time.

Lighting a face without modeling lights is quite simple. Move behind the key light stand and use it like a gun slight. What your eyes see will be what the key light highlights. If you move it around 45° to the side to where you see the far side of the face disappear then raise it so it is 45° to the eye line, then walk around to the opposite oblique view you get this...

http://super.nova.org/TP/BBBwide.jpg
http://super.nova.org/TP/BBBhs.jpg

Key light is 45°H45°V from the nose, 90° from the camera. If you place fill just over the camera where it lights the entire scene evenly it will wind up closest to the nose putting the lightest shadow there, and fall off front>back creating a buttery smooth gradient on the shadow side the key light doesn't hit directly. But see all the spill off walls and ceiling? In addition to the direct fill from over the camera thats what hits the face from all directions and makes the shadows softer. I happens with all light sources and you need to learn to anticipate and how to control it with you modifier choices.

Like cooking you can make a wide range of tasty dishes with relatively few lighting ingredients. Lighting strategies have for basic ingredients: fill to control shadow tone, key to create frontal 3D modeling, accent (key light from behind) to reveal the overall shape, and background to control separation and create a sense of 3D space in the 2D image. I explain an illustrate how the interact to create the illusion of 3D here:

http://photo.nova.org/Creating3D/
http://photo.nova.org/FourLightExercise/

Key and fill working together, fit the range of foreground to the camera sensor or not to record the same amount of detail seen by eye, or less, depending on how you control them. If you learn how to control them to record a seen by eye range doing everything else is simple.

Foreground / Background contrast is controlled by: 1) anticipating fill fall off and starting with a background lighter than you want it in the photo, or 2) aiming a separate light on it. For example here with just the key, fill and accent the white background is rendered gray...

http://super.nova.org/TP/WhiteBGTowelCard1ZS.jpg

A grey one would have been rendered nearly black. Moved closer to the subject is will be rendered lighter. Moved further back it will be rendered darker. All without the need for a separate background light unless you want the white background rendered accurately...

http://super.nova.org/TP/WhiteBGTowelCard2.jpg

The rim or hair light is what helps separate the white objects in the foreground from the white objects in the background. But if you have good contrast between the hair and face and the background you can live without it. Key and fill are the salt and pepper. The rim light is like the Tabasco sauce... a little goes a long way and too much will give you distracting heartburn..

As for gear? The pro I worked for made a pretty decent living at the time shooting weddings with window light and a pair of speedlights. Better gear today make other options viable but there will always be many situations where speedlights are the idea tool for the job if used as designed — they are not designed to be used as studio lights.

Consider that if you are shlepping 2-3 stands, modifiers, sandbags, etc. out on location the difference in logistics between powering them marginally with speedlights or optimally with a battery / inverter powered monolight is a few more pounds to carry.

If you do wind up working for hire to the point the IRS considers it a business, not a hobby, you'll be able to write off the gear as a business expense so there will be no excuse not to own both sets of gear if the type of work you do can be done faster and more effectively that way.

If you can't afford both sets of gear now with the discretionary income from the day job, sit down and make objective, realistic two-year business plans, one assuming you buy speedlights based on the type of work you can do best with them, another assuming you buy studio lights, and a third assuming you buy both. Figure out how much each will cost, what you would sell, how you would price it and how much it you would need to sell over two years to earn double or triple the cost of the gear. Also find out about business licenses and inventory taxes in your municipality and have a chat with your accountant, insurance agent and lawyer about liability and performance insurance and factor those into your business plan.

You may decide all things considered it's better as a hobby. Better to do that before sinking a lot of discretionary income from the day job into expensive gear








Jan 31, 2012 at 04:56 PM
buckeyeguy1
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Upload & Sell: Off
p.1 #20 · New to lighting. Need opinons.


Thanks for all of the replies and wisdom. I ended up buying an SB-900 from a fellow FMer on the B/S section. Can't wait to start playing around with it. I'm sure that there will be more questions to come.


Feb 01, 2012 at 05:21 PM
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