p.1 #1 · White Balance Target & Flash Meter Question
Good Morning...
I am shooting in my living room studio.
I have 2 alien bees 800s.
I bought a White Balance target, 24 inch.Black, Grey White...
I got good with using that.. no problem.
But now I have this Light meter, Sekonic L 358 and when I set my Canon 60D White Balance to FLASH, and use the sekonic, it seems the photos are great?
My question, do I really need a WB Target if I have a Light Meter until I learn all the settings myself?
I shoot in Manual Mode.
Love a little insight on Flash Meter and WB Target.. Do I need to use both? Can I trust my AWB AWB settings in the camera, ie, flash, daylight, tungsten..
I want my photos to POP, so I need to learn the correct way the first time! Thanks.
p.1 #2 · White Balance Target & Flash Meter Question
The light meter will suggest an exposure, but it won't tell you anything about the color. For that you would need a colorimeter.
That said, if you are not mixing light sources -- that is, if the flash is the dominant light source -- then using a "Flash" white balance will generally give you proper white balance.
Flash color can vary, especially at different power levels or when using modifiers, but the differences may not be enough to justify setting a custom white balance each time.
p.1 #4 · White Balance Target & Flash Meter Question
This setup is
1 70 in ch softbox attached to an Alien Bees B800 for the backdrop
1 16 x 24 sfotbox attached to an alien bees b800 for the front light.
I only have 2 lights.. right now.. will get a third soon.. I hope.
I saw a youtube video on this setup, told me settings for front and back lights.. but cannot find it again!
I will try lowering the light in the rear flash some.
I see no purple.. but I am not as trained as you.
thanks a Lot.
p.1 #5 · White Balance Target & Flash Meter Question
alaskalive wrote:
...I saw a youtube video on this setup, told me settings for front and back lights.. but cannot find it again!
I meter the key light (in incident mode) from just in front of the subject's chin, and then I turn the meter around (facing the BG) and hold it just behind the subject's head. I try to get the BG reading 1+2/3 to 2 stops brighter than the key light. I find more than 2 stops brighter to be too much for the way I do it.
This probably isn't the video you're refering to, but you may find it interesting:
