OK so I have a SB900 and the MiniTT1 + FlexTT5. I did a shoot today and was getting inconsistent results. Some times the flash would be far too strong, other times it would be just perfect. I tried to dial down the flash exposure but that didn't really work. Presume it's something related to the distance the umbrella/flash is from the subject?
Yes I was ttl, metering mode was mainly matrix. Just found the flash too strong in some shots but others it was great. Should I have put the flash on manual mode and adjusted the power?
chris129 wrote:
Yes I was ttl, metering mode was mainly matrix. Just found the flash too strong in some shots but others it was great. Should I have put the flash on manual mode and adjusted the power?
That can give the most consistant results; once you've found the output level that works (through test shots, historgram examination, etc.) any shots at the same flash-to-subject distance will be lit the same, regardless of changes in subject tone, background lighting, etc.
TTL metering can also work, but if the background is changing the results can be inconsitant. Using flash exposure lock while zoomed in on your subject, and then zooming back and recomposing for the shot will often give the best results, because you're maximizing the reading of the flash on the subject and minimizing the reading of distant background objects.
Nice tip on the flash exposure lock - thanks! I wasn't sure if the background (it was outdoors) was causing issues or whether it was the distance of me from the subject, or the umbrella from the subject (or both or neither ). But basically I can move around along as the flash to model distance doesn't change once flash is correctly exposed. Got it.
Not sure if you can do it with nikon, but with flex for canon you're supposed to keep flash set for TTL and use the ac3 to set manual power (there's a switch on the ac3 to set a group to off/ttl/manual). Without the ac3 the flex system is no better than dumb radio triggers - it is the ability to tweak manual power levels from on-camera that has kept me with the flex system
Yes I have read the manuals and looked online for a method of adjusting flash power using the flex system but don't think I can (?). I also came to the conclusion that I may need the AC3 to set manual power.
Did some thinking. What if I have the camera on matrix and P mode and used the flash lock on the subject then zoom out and shoot? Would that not lead to a correctly exposed subject and background as the flash is looking after the subject and the camera the ambient?
chris129 wrote:
Did some thinking. What if I have the camera on matrix and P mode and used the flash lock on the subject then zoom out and shoot? Would that not lead to a correctly exposed subject and background as the flash is looking after the subject and the camera the ambient?
If you trust the camera to expose a scene the way you want it to be, yes, in many cases that would work.
BrianO wrote:
You don't find radio-controlled TTL Autoflash, off-camera High Speed Sync, HyperSync, etc. to be of any benefit?
Not when you take into consideration the finicky behavior and expense of buying the triggers in the first place - at least in my experience. Spending another $60 to take full advantage of the triggers seems like a no-brainer, which is what I was trying to say.
chris129 wrote:
Did some thinking. What if I have the camera on matrix and P mode and used the flash lock on the subject then zoom out and shoot? Would that not lead to a correctly exposed subject and background as the flash is looking after the subject and the camera the ambient?
Your best bet is to use M (manual) mode, take a test shot, and adjust FEC up or down to get the effect you want. You can lock flash if you'd like as well, but the key is to at least LOCK the exposure settings by going to M and then use FEC to adjust the final variable of flash power. The ac3 will let you control ALL of the variables, so you get consistent results
chris129 wrote:
Did some thinking. What if I have the camera on matrix and P mode and used the flash lock on the subject then zoom out and shoot?
Something else just occurred to me: I don't know Nikon gear well enough to know, but FEL may not work in P mode. Sometimes Program modes are really limited in what the user can change.
). But basically I can move around along as the flash to model distance doesn't change once flash is correctly exposed. Got it.