I currently have the dual mount ad200X2 bracket, ad360 and just got the ad600. My current light stands are cheapo's and have done the job but I'm looking to upgrade since I now have the heavier light. I plan on using this outdoors for HSS shooting and currently have 2 softboxes up to 31". I'm looking to get a parabolic 38" to run my ad600 in. I'm considering the Kupo but I'm seeing alot of noise being driven towards these Neewer stands for roughly $129 with the boom kit. I see a few big youtuber photogs using them but I'm hoping to get feedback from users that can give me real input on them. I'd also like to hear if there is a brand or model to absolutely stay away from. I'd like the 10ft with or without the boom arm and I'd really like the adjustable legs with the air cushioned extensions. This stand would be used once in a while as I don't shoot full time but I don't want to get something out on location and wish I had gotten a better version. Thoughts? Thank you.
I believe that you get what you pay for. I shop for all my stands at a pro grip business. I have various Matthews, Avenger and Kupo stands. My largest is a Kupo and it is a beast. Very well made and rock solid. For anything from a C stand on up, I would not hesitate to go with these brands, but wouldn't likely scrimp on quality just to save a few bucks. For lighter weight stands that won't see outdoors, you can save a bit there, but even then, I'd look for solid hardware and wide legs to avoid falling over. And be sure to invest in some good sandbags. Outdoors, even the best stands can go over in the wind or on unlevel ground. And speaking of unlevel ground, be sure to get C stands that have adjustable legs (i.e legs that can be moved independently up or down the riser, which will enable you to maintain riser verticality when the ground is a slope [or on stairs, too]).
LPfromNJ wrote:
I'm looking to get a parabolic 38" to run my ad600 in.
A C-stand is for modifiers and for indoor use. It's made of steel, and that's good thing, but you want a light stand, steel (of course), and with a big footprint. Add ground stakes if the wind is blowing. Even if the light stand is secure, SB and umbrella modifiers will self-destruct in windy conditions. Booms and grip arms are completely different components in the support realm. Here's my largest stand (Matthews Medium Overhead roller) with four grip arms and an assortment of frames. It can reach 14' and support 90 lbs:
Stands in this category don't just fall over, so a levelling leg isn't mandatory. I have a couple of steel light stands with levelling legs if I really want to set up on a staircase. Doesn't sound that safe if you ask me.
Avenger for C stands with the removable turtle base. A lot of people swear by Matthews but I think they're no good - they use cork for the tightening disc and it deteriorates over time; they also have grooves in the knuckle which catch on the arm, making movement sticky instead of smooth; lastly, the way their legs expand and set with the tightening knob is just annoying and often unstable vs. Avenger's spring/tension locking design.
Kupo makes a great rolling base for C stands for about $100. Pair with either Boa bags or pumpkin weights and you've got a great indoor rolling stand.
I do not know about Kupo stands with booms. I also have stayed away from any of the stands with "leveling legs" and other "features" as the classic C stand has proven to never fail.
One last thought - a C stand is a bit of overkill for location gigs. I've cobbled together a stand that's comprised of an Avenger heavy duty kit stand with a C stand arm and knuckle. It has a load rating of 22lbs, and with the remote head on the 600 it is plenty stable. More expensive than a C stand if you buy it as separate components, but if you're buying them anyway (C stand for interior work; kit stand for location) you'll have a more flexible and forgiving setup than either alone.
We gave Kupo, Matthews & Avenger, and all are well up to the task as C-Stands.
That said, the Kupo Runway rolling base is very, very nice and the Kupo Turtle base w/ it's distinct 'Spring Ring' (Google a video) 'flick' to open/close mechanism makes opening or closing the base legs a doddle. The base also fits any C-stand riser.
Steve Wylie wrote:
I believe that you get what you pay for. I shop for all my stands at a pro grip business. I have various Matthews, Avenger and Kupo stands. My largest is a Kupo and it is a beast. Very well made and rock solid. For anything from a C stand on up, I would not hesitate to go with these brands, but wouldn't likely scrimp on quality just to save a few bucks. For lighter weight stands that won't see outdoors, you can save a bit there, but even then, I'd look for solid hardware and wide legs to avoid falling over. And be sure to invest in some good sandbags. Outdoors, even the best stands can go over in the wind or on unlevel ground. And speaking of unlevel ground, be sure to get C stands that have adjustable legs (i.e legs that can be moved independently up or down the riser, which will enable you to maintain riser verticality when the ground is a slope [or on stairs, too])....Show more →
I definitely wanted the adjustable height legs for sure. Thank you for that. These would primarily be used outdoors with the occasional indoor use. I do a lot more shoots at the beach even in the sand which I know these would be a problem for. My stands now blow over (not yet sandbagged though) but even if I did they were they are too cheap and light to handle what I have. I do also agree that you get what you pay for. Sometimes though the cheaper versions are decent enough where you don't need to spend crazy money. I was curious on that. The reviews seem good on the Neewer's but if they're crap I don't want one. Who knows the level of experience those reviews have.
rico wrote:
A C-stand is for modifiers and for indoor use. It's made of steel, and that's good thing, but you want a light stand, steel (of course), and with a big footprint. Add ground stakes if the wind is blowing. Even if the light stand is secure, SB and umbrella modifiers will self-destruct in windy conditions. Booms and grip arms are completely different components in the support realm. Here's my largest stand (Matthews Medium Overhead roller) with four grip arms and an assortment of frames. It can reach 14' and support 90 lbs:
Stands in this category don't just fall over, so a levelling leg isn't mandatory. I have a couple of steel light stands with levelling legs if I really want to set up on a staircase. Doesn't sound that safe if you ask me. ...Show more →
That is one serious C Stand set up you have.......WOW. I definitely don't need anything that intense but very nice set up. The boom arm set up I'd probably use if I got the extension head for the ad600 since it's lighter. Or, use it for the camera to take macro shots up close if needed. I'd love to get something with either a wider stance and much lighter or just a C-stand since they're heavy duty. They get used quite a bit on locations now so i just want to make the right decision the first time. Thank you.
jlafferty wrote:
Avenger for C stands with the removable turtle base. A lot of people swear by Matthews but I think they're no good - they use cork for the tightening disc and it deteriorates over time; they also have grooves in the knuckle which catch on the arm, making movement sticky instead of smooth; lastly, the way their legs expand and set with the tightening knob is just annoying and often unstable vs. Avenger's spring/tension locking design.
Kupo makes a great rolling base for C stands for about $100. Pair with either Boa bags or pumpkin weights and you've got a great indoor rolling stand.
I do not know about Kupo stands with booms. I also have stayed away from any of the stands with "leveling legs" and other "features" as the classic C stand has proven to never fail.
One last thought - a C stand is a bit of overkill for location gigs. I've cobbled together a stand that's comprised of an Avenger heavy duty kit stand with a C stand arm and knuckle. It has a load rating of 22lbs, and with the remote head on the 600 it is plenty stable. More expensive than a C stand if you buy it as separate components, but if you're buying them anyway (C stand for interior work; kit stand for location) you'll have a more flexible and forgiving setup than either alone. ...Show more →
I would need the C stand for indoor and outdoor applications but mostly outdoors. I'm not scared of the weight. I love my camera heavy too so it's no biggie. I'm thinking the Kupo but some stands do not have the air cushioned sections which I also desire. At the same time, I was hoping to save money since I won't be using them often and was curious on the cheaper Neewer brand as well. Thank you.
I am very pleased with the Matthews Hollywood Century C Stand. I use it with a Flashpoint Xplore 600 strobe with extension head outdoors. I also use a manfroto super clamp with hook for hanging the battery.
This c stand works well and I haul it in the back seat of my truck or the truck bed. It's solid heavy duty basic equipment. At first it seemed a bit heavy but now I'm used to it and think nothing of it. I have not tried the others on the market but Kupo sounds interesting.
I don't think there is only one option for a stand that will make you happy. There are a number that fit the bill and will get the job done.
silvermesa1 wrote:
I am very pleased with the Matthews Hollywood Century C Stand. I use it with a Flashpoint Xplore 600 strobe with extension head outdoors. I also use a manfroto super clamp with hook for hanging the battery.
This c stand works well and I haul it in the back seat of my truck or the truck bed. It's solid heavy duty basic equipment. At first it seemed a bit heavy but now I'm used to it and think nothing of it. I have not tried the others on the market but Kupo sounds interesting.
I don't think there is only one option for a stand that will make you happy. There are a number that fit the bill and will get the job done.
OH, I like that one. I didn't come across this one in my search. I guess the wide leg base would be less prone to tipping over than the CC-stand on location as well? They are both about the same weight at 22 lbs. Thank you so much for the link.
LPfromNJ wrote:
I currently have the dual mount ad200X2 bracket, ad360 and just got the ad600. My current light stands are cheapo's and have done the job but I'm looking to upgrade since I now have the heavier light. I plan on using this outdoors for HSS shooting and currently have 2 softboxes up to 31". I'm looking to get a parabolic 38" to run my ad600 in. I'm considering the Kupo but I'm seeing alot of noise being driven towards these Neewer stands for roughly $129 with the boom kit. I see a few big youtuber photogs using them but I'm hoping to get feedback from users that can give me real input on them. I'd also like to hear if there is a brand or model to absolutely stay away from. I'd like the 10ft with or without the boom arm and I'd really like the adjustable legs with the air cushioned extensions. This stand would be used once in a while as I don't shoot full time but I don't want to get something out on location and wish I had gotten a better version. Thoughts? Thank you....Show more →
Don't use C-stands for lights outdoors. They aren't really designed for lights, (the base is not wide enough for maximum stability) in a breeze or on soft surfaces. Outside we always use them with multiple sandbags on them holding flags or reflectors. Use light stands from a quality brand. Avenger's work fine and are steel and aluminum combos. An excellent versatile stand is the A4039CS from B&H. It has a built in boom arm and is extremely sturdy. You can use is as a conventional stand if you leave the boom riser straight. Sturdy and heavy duty with a rocky mountain leg. They make similar stands of that size range without the boom too for a little less money. It's steel like the C-stands which is what you want for strength if you don't mind the weight. I also use a few high rollers like Rico shows, but they are overkill for small strobes unless you want to go up to 14' or more.
stevesanacore wrote:
Don't use C-stands for lights outdoors. They aren't really designed for lights, (the base is not wide enough for maximum stability) in a breeze or on soft surfaces. Outside we always use them with multiple sandbags on them holding flags or reflectors. Use light stands from a quality brand. Avenger's work fine and are steel and aluminum combos. An excellent versatile stand is the A4039CS from B&H. It has a built in boom arm and is extremely sturdy. You can use is as a conventional stand if you leave the boom riser straight. Sturdy and heavy duty with a rocky mountain leg. They make similar stands of that size range without the boom too for a little less money. It's steel like the C-stands which is what you want for strength if you don't mind the weight. I also use a few high rollers like Rico shows, but they are overkill for small strobes unless you want to go up to 14' or more.
LPfromNJ wrote:
OH, I like that one. I didn't come across this one in my search. I guess the wide leg base would be less prone to tipping over than the CC-stand on location as well? They are both about the same weight at 22 lbs. Thank you so much for the link.
If you end up getting one please share your thoughts
My main heavy duty location light stands are starting to fall apart, and I'm keen to find something to replace them that will take the abuse I put them through as well as able to hold my biggest modifiers plus strobe without feeling wobbly
stevesanacore wrote:
Don't use C-stands for lights outdoors. They aren't really designed for lights, (the base is not wide enough for maximum stability) in a breeze or on soft surfaces. Outside we always use them with multiple sandbags on them holding flags or reflectors. Use light stands from a quality brand. Avenger's work fine and are steel and aluminum combos. An excellent versatile stand is the A4039CS from B&H. It has a built in boom arm and is extremely sturdy. You can use is as a conventional stand if you leave the boom riser straight. Sturdy and heavy duty with a rocky mountain leg. They make similar stands of that size range without the boom too for a little less money. It's steel like the C-stands which is what you want for strength if you don't mind the weight. I also use a few high rollers like Rico shows, but they are overkill for small strobes unless you want to go up to 14' or more.
I wouldn't completely write off C-stands for outdoor use or with small lights. Here are a few things to consider.
- The Avenger stand you listed has a base of 3.6 feet and a standard Avenger C-stand's base is 3.1 feet.
- Some light manufacturers have actually shown a C-stand with their light on it. I even saw an Elinchrom website photo with an octa on a C-stand (a while back), but can't find it now.
- Enough sandbags and either one is stable.
- Some Avenger C-stand models have a moveable leg that's designed for uneven terrain.
- Here are some quotes from the Avenger C-stands on B&H and Adorama -
"The leg design provides a very low center of gravity, and makes it easy to bury in the soil or sand, or accept sandbags for extra stability."
"For added versatility, a light head can be mounted to the base directly with the aid of a stand adapter (E200)."
"The Avenger A2030DKIT High 9.8' C-Stand 30 Kit includes A2030D detachable "turtle" base that is easily removed to facilitate transportation. A light head can be mounted to the base directly with the aid of a stand adapter. The innovative design on the Century Stand base allows individual legs to be set at any angle and can be positioned in locations not possible with classic stands."
It's really more about common sense. Using C-stands, outdoors, in some circumstances is perfectly fine. The stand you reference is more stable than the standard Avenger C-stand and even more so than a Matthews (due to the smaller base of a Matthews C-stand). The higher you put the light, the more unstable. The larger the modifier and type of modifier, the more unstable in a breeze, etc. If you use common sense, a c-stand can be used outdoors successfully. Some well-known photographers have used C-stands successfully on location for years.
Uh, 10 years in the NYC photo industry on editorial and commercial gigs from very tiny to huge… people put lights on C stands without a second thought, sometimes more than one. This idea that lights shouldn't go on C stands is an internet only idea, isolated to a handful of people. Knuckle to the right of the riser, so that the downward weight of a boomed light tightens the knuckle; boom out over the longest leg, and don't be careless about how much of the arm is forward vs behind the riser, and you're good. Sandbag it if you need to. I'm a big fan of the Boa bags and I'd be an even bigger fan if they weren't $48/bag If you've got an extension head on something like the Xplor600 or XplorPro, or a pack/head with the pack hanging low off a superclamp and J hook, your risk of anything toppling is near zero even without a bag.
Using common sense and keeping alert is always recommended when suspending heavy objects in the air. Most lighting newbies think C-stands are awesome because they're made of steel, but C-stands are not light stands. If one wants to support a light fixture with steel (always a good choice) then purchase a light stand made of steel—the selection is plentiful. The reference for correct C-stand usage comes from the manufacturers of C-stands, e.g. Avenger:
"Avenger C-stands primarily designed to hold grip products, are an effective way of articulating the item they support using grip heads and arms. Available in a variety of heights and some with detachable colums, the Avenger C-Stands have a fast set up and are made from the best materials available."
You can find a similar statement from Matthews. Alternatively, read about correct C-stand usage and other grip methods from Hollywood professionals like Michael Uva who are legally responsible for keeping a film set safe.
The Grip Book is pretty expensive but I learned a ton about activities and protocol around film sets and stages. I can't go to a rock concert anymore without looking at trusses and yokes...often more interesting than the music, frankly!
I’m a fan of the Matthews C Stands, both 40” and 20” depending on the application. Whether in the studio or outdoors a little commonsense goes a long way. I remember traveling extensively while assisting and having to hold a C Stand with Elinchrom Octa while reloading and labeling Hasselblad backs and monitoring recycling power packs. A couple sandbags and moderate sized modifiers will go a long way.
Again, just step onto any of a hundred sets going in NYC, LA, Chicago, Miami and you're sure to find at least one light or several on C stands. Just because a statement is written doesn't make it practical or even admirable - just look at the laws for where you're allowed to cross the street. Then watch how people navigate a city In fact, my bet is the only reason these statements exist from Avenger or Mathews is to insulate themselves from the liability of careless people using their gear poorly - it's easier to say "don't ever put a light on these stands" than it is to hope that people are going to work with consistently good practices.
It reminds me of a cookbook I used to have for a restaurant I was actually working in at the time - they served raw fish in citrus juice; but in the cookbook the recipe said to cook the fish for at least 30 minutes which absolutely trashed the fish. The chef explained he's got access to the best fish in the world and serving it raw is a no brainer, but he had to publish the recipe incorrectly to protect against people being ignorant and getting themselves sick.
rico wrote:
Using common sense and keeping alert is always recommended when suspending heavy objects in the air. Most lighting newbies think C-stands are awesome because they're made of steel, but C-stands are not light stands. If one wants to support a light fixture with steel (always a good choice) then purchase a light stand made of steel—the selection is plentiful. The reference for correct C-stand usage comes from the manufacturers of C-stands, e.g. Avenger:
"Avenger C-stands primarily designed to hold grip products, are an effective way of articulating the item they support using grip heads and arms. Available in a variety of heights and some with detachable colums, the Avenger C-Stands have a fast set up and are made from the best materials available."
You can find a similar statement from Matthews. Alternatively, read about correct C-stand usage and other grip methods from Hollywood professionals like Michael Uva who are legally responsible for keeping a film set safe.
The Grip Book is pretty expensive but I learned a ton about activities and protocol around film sets and stages. I can't go to a rock concert anymore without looking at trusses and yokes...often more interesting than the music, frankly!...Show more →
In fact, my bet is the only reason these statements exist from Avenger or Mathews is to insulate themselves from the liability of careless people using their gear poorly - it's easier to say "don't ever put a light on these stands" than it is to hope that people are going to work with consistently good practices.