Hi Rico. I think, at this point, we'll just agree to disagree. I've found C-stands to be perfectly adequate for some outside lighting situations. C-stands are sturdy (made of steel and steel alloys), can be stabilized by sandbags and used safely provided you know what you're doing. I'm not a newbie and neither is Joe McNally, neither is Lindsay Adler, neither is Daniel Norton or David Hobby and a whole cast of others who have routinely used C-stands in studio and on location to position smaller lights. They obviously use other stands and rigging as appropriate, but feel comfortable using C-stands for some lighting solutions.
As strobe lighting and modifiers have become lighter and more portable, the uses of C-stands seems to have changed in at least the photography industry. Even the current C-stand Wiki mentions a secondary use of C-stands for lighting.
story_teller wrote:
Hi Rico. I think, at this point, we'll just agree to disagree. I've found C-stands to be perfectly adequate for some outside lighting situations. ...
In reality, we disagree less than my post might indicate. For the benefit of newbies like OP, however, being dogmatic serves the important purpose of starting their journey on firm footing and with safety as the top priority. You and I are not newbies, so we can bend the rules—if not our risers! Of course I put lights on the end of grip arms but I do it with situational awareness. Once somebody gets killed by a falling boom, clueless stand usage is no longer humorous.
There is no question that you can put lights on C-stands, (especially small strobes), the point is that if you're looking at buying heavy duty stands for lights, why buy C-stand instead of a folding light stand that takes up less space when traveling and is more stable and more versatile? Most of my C-stands are with a turtle base as they pack easier. Rocky Mountain legs on my larger stands are the most versatile. Using a stand outdoors usually means uneven terrain where being able to adjust one leg to keep the stand straight is imperative for stability.
rico - yes bent risers, another issue with one of my C stands! It's amazing what the airlines and cargo companies can do to the strongest equipment.
Another consideration is the difficulty in picking out stands without seeing them in person. Even after decades of experience in using all this gear, I have a very hard time trying to figure out what a stand is really like when I'm looking at them online. The quality and strength of the materials is very hard to judge without handling them in person. Make sure wherever you order them from, you can send them back if they are not what you expect.
rico wrote:
In reality, we disagree less than my post might indicate. For the benefit of newbies like OP, however, being dogmatic serves the important purpose of starting their journey on firm footing and with safety as the top priority. You and I are not newbies, so we can bend the rules—if not our risers! Of course I put lights on the end of grip arms but I do it with situational awareness. Once somebody gets killed by a falling boom, clueless stand usage is no longer humorous.
Thanks for the clarification and apologize to everyone if I got a bit carried away. I'm with you 100%. Until you know what you're doing, C-stands and other lighting stands can be disasters waiting to happen. More than once, I've had someone improperly set up a C-stand with the knob on the left side of the extension or put a huge modifier on a light weight stand with no sandbags. Even a flag can hurt if it comes down with enough momentum. The talent and crew's safety always comes first!
I think it's also important to keep the original post in mind - OP wants something that is air cushioned, study enough to carry a mid-size modifier plus a couple AD200s in the dual bracket or AD360, shoots primarily on location. All that to me suggests a heavy duty air cushioned light stand and not a C-stand.
C-stands are great in the studio and for anything from holding flags to backdrops to lights, but there's no way I'd bring 1-2 with me on a location shoot where we're having to walk any distance (unless I have an assistant to carry it all for me I suppose, but even then right tool for the right job). Have lots of respect for Joe McNally and the like that swear by C-stands on location, but he typically has an assistants on hand to hoof all that gear around.
I've been using Norm's C-Stands and Hi-Rollers for over thirty years. Built here in L.A. What I love is the design of their legs which make for quick and elegant setup and teardown, plus having the slidable top leg allows you to use all sorts of uneven surfaces like stairs or a table or ledge for a plumb stand. Generally a bit less expensive than Matthews or Avenger. And yes, we put lights, lights with softboxes and umbrellas, sheets of fomecore, flags, flexi-clamps, dowling rods, etc, all on C-stands, both in the studio and on location. Don't forget the sandbags.
sungphoto wrote:
I think it's also important to keep the original post in mind - OP wants something that is air cushioned, study enough to carry a mid-size modifier plus a couple AD200s in the dual bracket or AD360, shoots primarily on location. All that to me suggests a heavy duty air cushioned light stand and not a C-stand.
C-stands are great in the studio and for anything from holding flags to backdrops to lights, but there's no way I'd bring 1-2 with me on a location shoot where we're having to walk any distance (unless I have an assistant to carry it all for me I suppose, but even then right tool for the right job). Have lots of respect for Joe McNally and the like that swear by C-stands on location, but he typically has an assistants on hand to hoof all that gear around....Show more →
Joe has Cali, who is his right arm. They are a pair of the nicest, hardest working, most respectful people you'll ever meet. I understand Joe took the summer off to learn video.
I have Six Avenger C' Stands, all have the adjustable third leg, and have used them extensively indoors and out. I am always mindful of what I am asking of the stand. Weight, wind and weather. Keep those three W's in mind and you will be fine. Sandbagged most always. Of course, if you are doing something in inclement weather, maybe getting one stand with an exceptionally wide base would be an option for you. If you go onto B&H and go to lighting, all C Stands are listed under the category 'Light Stands'. Good Luck with your shooting.
Avengers are awesome! Regarding c stands not being good for lights outdoors: if you weigh the base enough, the arm will actually rotate before the stand tips— I learned this while living in Laramie WY where it blows 60 mph every week in winter.
Reviving this thread; has anyone used or even looked at Neewer C-stands?
I was about to buy two Kupo stands but pulled the plug when shipping from southern Canada was quoted as $345.00. My wife uses Amazon Prime so I checked out what was available with 'free shipping'. Neewer is obviously bottom tier product but: is it absolute crap or just cheaply made? I'm a hobbyist and don't necessarily need professional level gear. However, product that is incapable of supporting a modifier and flash unit will fail regardless of the qualifications of the user. Most of the bad news reviews identify the knuckles as weak or prone to stripped threads. Insights appreciated.
Yukonica wrote:
Reviving this thread; has anyone used or even looked at Neewer C-stands?
I was about to buy two Kupo stands but pulled the plug when shipping from southern Canada was quoted as $345.00. My wife uses Amazon Prime so I checked out what was available with 'free shipping'. Neewer is obviously bottom tier product but: is it absolute crap or just cheaply made? I'm a hobbyist and don't necessarily need professional level gear. However, product that is incapable of supporting a modifier and flash unit will fail regardless of the qualifications of the user. Most of the bad news reviews identify the knuckles as weak or prone to stripped threads. Insights appreciated. ...Show more →
The thing about stripped threads is that it'll turn a C-stand from a valuable piece of support equipment, safeguarding hundreds if not thousands of dollars worth of lighting equipment, into basically a piece of junk. Risers that slip can damage your gear, and even worse damage your subject.
A good c-stand will last for years and years with basic maintenance, and if you get tired of the hobby can be resold for not much of a loss if it's not some cheapo brand.
Personally I'd rather cheap out on modifiers and reflectors, than go for cheap c-stands.
Your going to think I'm nuts but I shoot out here on location on the northern coast of California and just getting to locations is a pain in the ass. That said I don't carry stands, In a small carry bag, I carry my AD 600, a super clamp and a 3-foot aluminum pipe 2 inches in diameter with 3 tent stakes, straps, a small hammer my modifier and tripod. Over the other shoulder, I carry an extendable painters pole from home depot. Get to the location drive the aluminum pole in the sand, stake it with the tent stakes and straps attach the super clamp to the pole attach the light drop the pole in the holder and voila. I can give you more details if you want to pm me. This rig has never failed me even in 10 mph winds. Total cost about 30 bucks
C- stands is a very American way for still photographers to mount a light. You'll never see this on a movie set, c-stands are for flags, scrims etc. but in the end, whatever works, right. I'd look at Avengers kit stands, decent hight and foot print and for outdoor usage you put a bag or 2 on it, or if you need more stability outdoors, the combo stands are great. Then there are the more traditional Manfrotto stands, either flat folding or classic, that have a nice footprint, but should also weighted down outside. I remember years ago, when Profoto came out with their large light formers, we had some prototypes for a test drive. I had 3 guys standing on a huge combo steel stand and the thing just collapsed in the wind, but the Elinchrom Octa didn't even unfold ( I think we busted 2 and then gave up), so we had to shoot with the collapsed Profoto, basically a huge 90 deg angle reflector. It all worked out somehow, and no one got injured and we got our cover shot.
I have a Flashpoint-branded C-stand with grip/heads on a turtle base that I got via promotion for buying one of their lights, and I just purchased the Kupo 40" turtle base (no grip/heads).
They're both very good. The Flashpoint one has a spring-loaded extension tube, which I quite like, but the Kupo doesn't (it has rubber o-rings). The Kupo has its patented locking mechanism for the turtle base, which I think is a nice touch, but probably not as useful as I imagined. We'll see, as I just got it.
For the money, the Flashpoint ones are a better value IMO.
For the benefit of newbies like OP, however, being dogmatic serves the important purpose of starting their journey on firm footing and with safety as the top priority. You and I are not newbies, so we can bend the rules—if not our risers! Of course I put lights on the end of grip arms but I do it with situational awareness. Once somebody gets killed by a falling boom, clueless stand usage is no longer humorous.