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Archive 2010 · Vagabond II reliability

  
 
DC Chavez
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p.2 #1 · Vagabond II reliability


Paul Buff wrote:
D1 is not a constant color light, to my knowledge, and requires firmware modification to run from BatPac.


That is incorrect.

Here is the text taken from the Profoto Batpac users guide:

"The Profoto D1 is fully compatible for use with BatPac. Up to 2 D1 units can be connected to 1 BatPac. A new D1 firmware (1.2) released in June, 2010, includes a “Bat mode” making it possible to connect up to 4 D1 units to 1 BatPac.

All D1´s are set to “standard mode” as default. In standard mode the D1 maximizes the power consumption to minimize the recycling speed – optimal when connected to the mains.

In “Bat mode” the D1 reduces the power consumption and automatically dims the model light during flash recharge – optimal when connected to a battery power source with a limited continuous output power."

Not starting a fight, just reducing the spread of misinformation.



Sep 17, 2010 at 05:16 PM
colinm
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p.2 #2 · Vagabond II reliability


Paul Buff wrote:
D1 is not a constant color light, to my knowledge


It's a hair more constant on paper than an Einstein. Spec is 5600K +/- 30K.



Sep 17, 2010 at 06:58 PM
Paul Buff
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p.2 #3 · Vagabond II reliability


colinm wrote:
It's a hair more constant on paper than an Einstein. Spec is 5600K +/- 30K.


Looking at the specs at http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/605742-REG/Profoto_901025_D1_Air_1000_w_s.html#specifications and http://www.profoto-usa.com/customerservice/manuals/Users_Guide_D1_Eng.pdf this is not an IGBT or capacitor switched unit, rather, a standard voltage controlled unit. The flash duration appears to be 1/1800 t,5 at full power and 1/700 t.5 at minimum power . . . consistent with a voltage controlled flash. All voltage controlled flash units (including Profotos I have tested) intrinsically exhibit about -80°K color shift per f stop of power adjustment. I don't have time to research this further, but I believe the 5600°K +/- 30°K spec is at full power only and that the color temperature at 6f below full power is approximately 5100°.

I looked all through Profoto's D1 info and found no mention of Color VS Power setting.

In Color Mode, Einstein is about the same flash duration at full power, and 1/8000 second at -8f (2,5WS) (1/13,500 in Action Mode) and the color remains constant at within +/-50° at any power setting. Profoto has a 64:1 power adjustment range, while Einstein has a 256:1 power control range.

I'm willing to be proved wrong on this but the pertinent info does not appear on any specs I have found. All such info and more is published on our website for all of our lights.



Sep 17, 2010 at 07:17 PM
Paul Buff
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p.2 #4 · Vagabond II reliability


DC Chavez wrote:
That is incorrect.

Here is the text taken from the Profoto Batpac users guide:

"The Profoto D1 is fully compatible for use with BatPac. Up to 2 D1 units can be connected to 1 BatPac. A new D1 firmware (1.2) released in June, 2010, includes a “Bat mode” making it possible to connect up to 4 D1 units to 1 BatPac.

All D1´s are set to “standard mode” as default. In standard mode the D1 maximizes the power consumption to minimize the recycling speed – optimal when connected to the mains.

In “Bat mode” the D1 reduces the power consumption and automatically dims
...Show more

You already acknowledged it requires firmware change as I mentioned, Please tell me what I said that is incorrect, and please point us to a link that shows D1 is constant color.Please tell me what I said that is incorrect, and please point us to a link that shows D1 is constant color.

I believe you accusing the wrong party of spreading mis-information. Gee, I stood up for you a minute ago https://www.fredmiranda.com/forum/topic/937117/1#lastmessage



Sep 17, 2010 at 07:41 PM
DC Chavez
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p.2 #5 · Vagabond II reliability


Paul-

Your statement that I quoted said "requires firmware modification to run from BatPac. "

That statement is incorrect. The D1 can run sans-firmware upgrade, but it will deplete the battery faster than it would with the upgrade. The D1's I used in my recent blog posting did NOT have the firmware upgrade. Therefore, they do NOT REQUIRE a firmware upgrade to operate on the Batpac. If you do want to run 4 D1's at a time and increase battery life, then YES, the firmware upgrade is suggested. In my personal usage I popped off 125 full power flashes and 200+ shots at mid to low power on the same charge.

For someone like that is so focused on minutia I fail to understand how my previous response was ambiguous.

As far as pointing you to a technical sheet on the D1- Google is very useful in finding such information:

http://www.profoto.com/sites/default/files/Users_Guide_D1_EN.pdf

Page 20- this statement applies to ALL D1 monolights
Color Temperature, K- 5600
Color temperature consistency, K +/- 30

It would be responsible to do your homework before you claim something can or cannot do something. To borrow your words, "I believe you (are) accusing the wrong party of spreading mis-information."



Sep 17, 2010 at 07:58 PM
Paul Buff
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p.2 #6 · Vagabond II reliability


DC Chavez wrote:
Paul-

Your statement that I quoted said "requires firmware modification to run from BatPac. "

That statement is incorrect. The D1 can run sans-firmware upgrade, but it will deplete the battery faster than it would with the upgrade. The D1's I used in my recent blog posting did NOT have the firmware upgrade. Therefore, they do NOT REQUIRE a firmware upgrade to operate on the Batpac. If you do want to run 4 D1's at a time and increase battery life, then YES, the firmware upgrade is suggested. In my personal usage I popped off 125 full power flashes and 200+
...Show more

Well, I guess I have to take back everything good I said about you in "your" BatPac" Profoto commercial thread..

First, if you look there, you'll see I already posted the link you mention, and yes I read it start to finish.

I'll start by making a challenge (I would make it a $10,000 wager, but don't think bets are appropriate here. Any legitimate photographer who owns a D1 and a decent color chart please take a RAW test shot of the color chart at Full Power, and another one at minimum power. If the color temperature difference from Max to Min Power is not closer to 500°K than 30°K I'll eat my shirt, buy you dinner or whatever you want.

As to page 20, it states the "Color Temperature Consistency" as +/- 30° and in a separate spec states the color temperature as 5600°. This is pure and simple deceptive specsmanship and you fell for it hook line and sinker.

If you know how to decipher this, it says the shot to shot color consistency at a given power setting is+/-30° and, in a separate specification, it says the base (full power color temperature is 5600°.

Nowhere does it define Color Temperature VS Power Setting. Maybe you don't know why this spec was omitted, but I sure do . . . because there is at least a 400°K shift . . . probably a bit more.

As to the firmware thing, I direct you to your own "review" at http://blog.profoto-usa.com/?p=2064 specifically “Batmode” – Why you need this Firmware Update for your D1′s" You yourself said You need this firmware.

Profotos site itself doesn't even work . . . . http://www.profoto.com/batpac/product/tech-specs . . . brings up "Error - the info you were looking for was not found or is inactive"

I've spent entirely too much of my time trying to find actual BatPac specs to no avail. At one point a ran across a discussion of how many D1s of what power levels can be operated from this thing, and which combinations require the firmware update. Too bad Profoto can't actually put up the complete specs, free of misleading implications. Maybe they only do that for Swedes . . hell I don't know.

As to your "If you do want to run 4 D1's at a time and increase battery life, then YES, the firmware upgrade is suggested" I believe this is in error. To run four D1s, the firmware is required, not suggested.

In the meantime, I sincerely hope that someone who has the whole spec sheet for this thing. And I sincerely hope that someone with a D1 and no bias will verify the color vs power constancy issue before they start tearing into me for trying to correct false and misleading information. Hey DC . . . you're the one that owns a D1 . . . why not take few minutes to do this yourself and prove or disprove what you think to be true. I would do it for you, but I'm not going to go out and buy a D1 to prove a point

At this point, I standby "I believe the wrong party is being accused of presenting incorrect info"



Edited on Sep 17, 2010 at 11:13 PM · View previous versions



Sep 17, 2010 at 10:46 PM
TTLKurtis
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p.2 #7 · Vagabond II reliability


I'll do a testarooni of the D1 1000Ws and 500Ws on a color chart at full and minimum power.

One of the things that bugged me when I had ABs was it seemed like the shot-to-shot consistency wasn't that great. The power / color thing I can understand, but shot-to-shot I need consistent color / power levels. (I also like the digital interface of the D1 better than the analog of the ABs, though I believe the Einstein solves that - and the color stuff)



Sep 18, 2010 at 12:55 AM
willowsr
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p.2 #8 · Vagabond II reliability


Could we return to the issue of the reliability of recently shipped (last 4 to 8 weeks) Vagabond II units? Clearly, we have people reading this thread who are knowledgeable and whose information base goes well beyond the scope of a single (somewhat frustrated) user. Are there any thoughts on the reliability of comparable competing (Tronix XT, BatPac or other?) units? Regards to all, and thanks for their contributions.


Sep 18, 2010 at 01:00 AM
Paul Buff
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p.2 #9 · Vagabond II reliability


willowsr wrote:
Could we return to the issue of the reliability of recently shipped (last 4 to 8 weeks) Vagabond II units? Clearly, we have people reading this thread who are knowledgeable and whose information base goes well beyond the scope of a single (somewhat frustrated) user. Are there any thoughts on the reliability of comparable competing (Tronix XT, BatPac or other?) units? Regards to all, and thanks for their contributions.


Yes . . .we should have never gotten so far off topic.

We have many thousand Vag 2s in the field with a very good reliability record. The most common issue is sulfated batteries. If they are deep discharged they can be rendered useless if not recharged right away. If a battery is badly sulfated, the charger can keep trying to charge it. Because there is no temperature sensing between the charger and the battery, the charger can keep pumping current into the battery and cause heating. This is true of all SLA batteries and chargers that are not thermally connected.

But the bigger issue has occurred quite recently (in the past three months or so) and seems to stem from the most recent batch of inverters we received. We test the daylights out of these several times before they are shipped, running them unmercifully on a 2500WS Zeus pack and recharging them before shipment.

But, rather suddenly, we began to see about 4-5% of units fail prematurely in the field, in some cases on the very first use - often on a single low power light. The typical report is similar to what you see here . . . the fuse blows and/or the units smokes or refuses to operate. We are doing everything we can to identify exactly what is failing and why, as has the vendor. We believe it to be Mosfets failing from transient voltages - possibly a defective batch of Mosfets and possibly a change the vendor made without our knowledge. I have been extremely aggressive with the vendor and with our tech staff.

Of course, when this happens we do everything possible to work with the customer to rectify the issue, and I always try to put myself in the customers shoes . . . .meaning I can't blame a customer for being very upset when this happens. And, even though I am not physically in the plant overseeing the tech staff, I have been all over them on this issue and, much more so, extremely aggressive with the vendor.

It t's my understanding that we received a small number of inverters a couple of days ago with modifications intended to correct the excess failure rate and that Joe (chief technician for many years) has done everything possible to try to destroy them but has not been able to induce any failures whatsoever. I have been in contact with the vendor at least a dozen times in the past few weeks, as have my Chief Engineer and my manufacturing VP, expressing the immediate need to find and correct the issue as immediately as humanly possible. The vendor completely tests each inverter before they are shipped to us and, as I said, we test and stress each one very thoroughly before they are shipped, and neither us nor the vendor has been able to induce the type of failure reported here.

It is important to note that 95% of V2s shipped work without any issue whatsoever, other than occasional sulfated batteries. But prior to the latest batch, that number was more like 99%.

When I first started seeing reports of these failures about 90 days ago, I set to work very intensely developing the Mini Lithium, using a different, very reliable vendor (the same vendor that makes Samlex inverters) and working with six highly respected battery vendors. The battery vendor I settled on has been extremely instrumental in helping me choose and design the Lithium battery and the protection circuitry that is integral to the battery pack.

Unlike SLA batteries, the Lithium battery has on-board temperature sensing, over charge and over discharge protection, cannot sulfate and can be left in the discharged state for months without any damage whatsoever. I have torture-tested the battery/inverter combination personally, continuously firing one or two ABs or Einsteins once per ten seconds until the battery is exhausted, without seeing any temperature at the battery above 105°F. If the firing rate is increased considerably, the inverter will eventually sense over heating and shut down, then resume after a cooling period.

I wish I could say these people are nuts and there is no issue, but my conscience always demands that I tell everything I no . . the good, bad and ugly.



Sep 18, 2010 at 02:47 AM
PeterBerressem
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p.2 #10 · Vagabond II reliability


I'm with Paul on this one - the +/- 30 rating refers to flash-to-flash consistency, not to the power range.


Sep 18, 2010 at 04:34 AM
willowsr
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p.2 #11 · Vagabond II reliability


Many thanks to Paul for his stand up acknowledgement of the issue. It's a lot easier to have confidence in a product problem working out, when folks are straightforward. I've given Joe my Amex number (Melody was unavailable), and expect to see a new VII unit as soon as UPS can get it cross country. If this unit performs to spec for 4 or 5 weeks, I'll be on the horn for another.
Going off topic a bit- how's schedule look for the PLM 86?
Thanks again, Paul.



Sep 18, 2010 at 10:12 AM
DC Chavez
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p.2 #12 · Vagabond II reliability


Paul-

There is a famous phrase "Arguing on the internet..." never mind, but lets just say, you win...

You make a statement with two parts and I refer to one of the parts, showing you that you do not NEED the firmware update to run the products together. You have nothing to say about that at all, as there was nothing to say other than you were wrong, and instead go on off topic about something else. I "think" we speak the same language, I am curious as to why it is so difficult for you to follow. I feel like I am talking to my five year old cousin that is trying to convince me as to why he should be allowed to eat ice cream at every meal.

I am a photographer that uses these lights in the real world rather than sitting in a lab putting lights through a barrage of tests to try and find one obscure area where it "shines." I am in no way making any claims about your product, nor have I at any point during this bantering, just trying to prevent the spread if misinformation.

At one point I used to come to FM to get info, learn something or share my experiences with other photographers. Somewhere along the line it turned into a Paul Conrad Buff filibuster. Don't you have a forum on your site where you can huff and puff and blow every other manufacturer down? I for one am tired of coming to the fredmirandabuff.com Lighting Forum...

I really don't have anything else to say to you, nor do I have the time to address every one of your non-sequitur statements.

Goodbye Paul.



Sep 18, 2010 at 11:21 AM
TTLKurtis
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p.2 #13 · Vagabond II reliability


I just did a quick test, and for what it's worth, on the D1 1,000Ws the color temperature is as follows:

Going to also see what the readings are from a 500Ws and then the AcuteB Head on AcuteB2 600 pack...

Profoto D1 1,000Ws
Minimum Power: 5,150ºK
Full Power: 5,900ºK

Profoto AcuteB 600 (not a monolight)
Minimum Power: 6,050ºK
Full Power: 5,850ºK

Will have to do the 500Ws another day, gotta run!



Sep 18, 2010 at 11:24 AM
Conner999
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p.2 #14 · Vagabond II reliability


DC Chavez wrote:
Paul-

There is a famous phrase "Arguing on the internet..." never mind, but lets just say, you win...

You make a statement with two parts and I refer to one of the parts, showing you that you do not NEED the firmware update to run the products together. You have nothing to say about that at all, as there was nothing to say other than you were wrong, and instead go on off topic about something else. I "think" we speak the same language, I am curious as to why it is so difficult for you to follow. I feel like
...Show more

DC - well said, and while unfortunate, also a very accurate assessment as to where things are being allowed to head around here - and the amount of a good any attempt at logical, adult discussion has as well.

Keep up the good work and look fwd to seeing more of it on the blog.



Sep 18, 2010 at 12:02 PM
Kacey
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p.2 #15 · Vagabond II reliability


DC Chavez wrote:
Don't you have a forum on your site where you can huff and puff and blow every other manufacturer down?

That forum is only for agreeing with Paul's Political rants and "beta testing technical issues". Since closing down his old forum for his customers not agreeing with him and being banned from DPReview (Link). It's looking like this is the go to place to continue the behavior.



Sep 18, 2010 at 01:00 PM
Bryan Beasleigh
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p.2 #16 · Vagabond II reliability


Paul can't really relax and just share because is is relentllessly persued and stalked by the same few individuals. They seem to follow him and bait at every oportunity. The same people that hounded him at DPR are here. Did we also mention that he's relentlessly persued by some people that may have agendas. Mr Kacey has gone out of his way to get in Pauls face and then cry foul when the obvious happens. Now as a potential customer of kacey's i certainly wouldn't deal with a bully and a troublemaker regardless how fine his stuff might be.



Now i don't really like some things Paul says but his equipment is good stuff (imho) and the people that are interested deserve to be able to read without someone crapping over every thread. By my count most of kacey's posts on FM are anti Buff and they are considerable. You seem to seek Paul out and become overly confrontational at every oportunity.

What you are doing is far more distasteful and cowardlythan what you accuse Paul of.

Just sayin!



Sep 18, 2010 at 01:54 PM
Kacey
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p.2 #17 · Vagabond II reliability


After being insulted myself from Mr Buff I have no issue standing up for others he belittles.
There is a hide button if you don't want to read my posts. Since you say you will not deal with me can I ask you if you will continue to deal with Mr Buff for the same reasons? I'm distasteful and a coward? You just like everyone here is welcome to their opinion. I'm guessing you have little knowledge of his past in various forums he has participated in the the last 5 years you should do a little research before forming a opinion.



Sep 18, 2010 at 02:13 PM
Paul Buff
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p.2 #18 · Vagabond II reliability


TTLKurtis wrote:
I just did a quick test, and for what it's worth, on the D1 1,000Ws the color temperature is as follows:

Going to also see what the readings are from a 500Ws and then the AcuteB Head on AcuteB2 600 pack...

Profoto D1 1,000Ws
Minimum Power: 5,150ºK
Full Power: 5,900ºK

Profoto AcuteB 600 (not a monolight)
Minimum Power: 6,050ºK
Full Power: 5,850ºK

Will have to do the 500Ws another day, gotta run!


Thanks for taking the time to set things straight. Measuring color temperatures is not a black and white issue (no pun intended). Different camera, test cards and RAW tools will produce widely varying absolute numbers. If you use color meters, the results have an even greater variation.

Notice the 300° difference in your reading and the published D1 spec of 5600°K and your observed 750° shift over the power range VS Rangefinder's 400° shift. Believe me, I do an awful lot of this sort of testing and am quite accustomed to seeing these differences. What I end up publishing is typically a median of the results of a dozen or so tests with various cameras, lenses and color targets.

Since it is the actual photo that counts in the end, my "gold standard" is using a Kodak professional color card in a room that has calibrated neutral grey surfaces throughout and RAW shots and Adobe Bridge. Within the color card's various greys, I will typically see 100° to 200° difference, and a similar difference between various camera and lenses.

I also consistently see, particularly on color vs power tests like your, an invariably larger color shift from any of my several color meters than I see in RAW tests. I attribute this to the likelihood that the color meters (Gossen, Sekonic and Minolta) have greater response to near UV colors than do typical lenses and cameras. The color meters also vary widely, from the same light source and power setting, with distance from the meter to the light. I attribute this to non-linearities of the three RGB sensors used.

As to the AcuteB 600, I expected the much closer color VS Power results because, from the published specs, which show faster flash durations with power reduction, this light uses capacitor switch (as do most packs) as the primary means of establishing power level, as opposed to the voltage control means used in the D1. I would even go so far as to suggest that if you did a series of RAW test you may find the max to min color shift on the AcuteB considerably closer to 0°K than the 200°K you observed.

I do hope this whole ugly thread has produced some degree of technical enlightenment to readers as a counterbalance to all the squabbling and ego trips.



Sep 18, 2010 at 02:27 PM
Paul Buff
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p.2 #19 · Vagabond II reliability


Kacey wrote:
After being insulted myself from Mr Buff I have no issue standing up for others he belittles.
There is a hide button if you don't want to read my posts. Since you say you will not deal with me can I ask you if you will continue to deal with Mr Buff for the same reasons? I'm distasteful and a coward? You just like everyone here is welcome to their opinion. I'm guessing you have little knowledge of his past in various forums he has participated in the the last 5 years you should do a little research before forming a
...Show more

Kacey, a little personal advice. You are free and welcome to make technical observations about my equipment or anybody else's, just as I or anyone else am free to do the same. But when that evolves into personal attacks and an agenda no good purpose is served. As I pointed out to DC Chavez this can easily happen, so I offered an olive branch of understanding and support to him, which was unfortunately rejected

We will all defend ourselves and argue our points when we believe them to be correct, but there comes a time when agendas and getting even become counter productive.

As for my "past" I have done two polls regarding FM members opinions of my posts here for the express purpose of making sure the general membership didn't feel my posts were undesirable. I did this with the knowledge that bashers and hate advocates tend to be more vocal than information seekers. The members spoke rather clearly on this subject, and it is the broad membership that I am here to serve.



Sep 18, 2010 at 03:59 PM
Kacey
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p.2 #20 · Vagabond II reliability


Your seriously giving me advice on how to conduct myself in the forums? Do you think you can put down anyone you want and nobody is going to call you on it? Maybe you should take up photography and participate and learn and share like everyone else. If I have made any statements that are not true let me know and I will apologize.

Telling DC Chavez to

"go eat your crow like a good boy"

is a perfect example of your rude conduct.



Sep 18, 2010 at 04:50 PM
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